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 Old 08-04-2019, 10:28 PM   #81
 
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If you grind slot and use proper clamp tool on rubber boot as i posted i think will hold fine as long as heat doesn't melt it. Car i did it on replaced with new long block and sold car to guy in here in NH, think he still owns it. I will ask him if held up.
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 Old 08-05-2019, 03:18 PM   #82
 
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Ordered a new downstream O2 sensor and will get the car up on stands to get a better look at things and will post photos.
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 Old 08-18-2019, 12:49 PM   #83
 
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O2 sensor installed. Remnants of the outer boot install are removed. Somehow, the previous owner managed to extract the OEM inner rubber joint boot while leaving the metal sheath in place, so the CV joint is exposed when you look inside the sheath.

I've inquired about the 2-piece aluminum driveshaft as the shop is only 3 1/2 hours away.

With the Subaru boot being an external boot (vs. the internal OEM boot), the high rotational speeds of the driveshaft coupled with boot being external (and further from the center of the shaft) I'm not surprised that they'll come apart as the boot was never designed/intended for this fitment and the high rotational speeds.
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 Old 08-18-2019, 02:40 PM   #84
 
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Originally Posted by Gcthree View Post
O2 sensor installed. Remnants of the outer boot install are removed. Somehow, the previous owner managed to extract the OEM inner rubber joint boot while leaving the metal sheath in place, so the CV joint is exposed when you look inside the sheath.

I've inquired about the 2-piece aluminum driveshaft as the shop is only 3 1/2 hours away.

With the Subaru boot being an external boot (vs. the internal OEM boot), the high rotational speeds of the driveshaft coupled with boot being external (and further from the center of the shaft) I'm not surprised that they'll come apart as the boot was never designed/intended for this fitment and the high rotational speeds.
Its a driveshaft boot so seems like would be about same rpms. I dont understand. Possibly ur right but im wondering if they would work if could protect from heat.

The one i did did supposedly fail. I feel it was due to heat as grinding slot really secured it but who knows. The DP was super close on it whereas some DPs might not be as close. Installing a head sheild was going to be beyond what i had time to do as nothing easy to bolt it to so would need to weld in studs or something.

You have AM dp?

I have a cpe catted dp which sits a bit further away then the ebay/m2 whatever DP. Last i checked my oem seal still intact. I had to replace flex a while back and welded dp to catback flang slightly off so leaks. Have to do cluch some day and will probably just pull block and fix DP but if my seal gone at that point will need to fix so let us know what u figure out.
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 Old 08-18-2019, 06:11 PM   #85
 
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At high speeds in upper gears, the driveshaft is spinning at high rpm whereas the intended use of the boots are for half-shafts in independent suspension settings. Just guessing here.

I'll install a header wrap on the DP in lieu of fabricating a shield. My car is completely stock including the DP.

Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
Its a driveshaft boot so seems like would be about same rpms. I dont understand. Possibly ur right but im wondering if they would work if could protect from heat.

The one i did did supposedly fail. I feel it was due to heat as grinding slot really secured it but who knows. The DP was super close on it whereas some DPs might not be as close. Installing a head sheild was going to be beyond what i had time to do as nothing easy to bolt it to so would need to weld in studs or something.

You have AM dp?

I have a cpe catted dp which sits a bit further away then the ebay/m2 whatever DP. Last i checked my oem seal still intact. I had to replace flex a while back and welded dp to catback flang slightly off so leaks. Have to do cluch some day and will probably just pull block and fix DP but if my seal gone at that point will need to fix so let us know what u figure out.
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 Old 08-18-2019, 07:26 PM   #86
 
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Originally Posted by Gcthree View Post
At high speeds in upper gears, the driveshaft is spinning at high rpm whereas the intended use of the boots are for half-shafts in independent suspension settings. Just guessing here.

I'll install a header wrap on the DP in lieu of fabricating a shield. My car is completely stock including the DP.

Maybe wrap on oem DP is all needed. Maybe im wrong and will fail no matter what...

Actually just had a thought on it with your idea that RPMs is issue. Dont over grease it. Maybe the grease caused boot to become out of balance. Use syringe to apply just right amount.

I know I probably put too much in and wonder if that caused issue.
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 Old 08-19-2019, 12:47 PM   #87
 
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It occurs to me that the OEM boot inside the sheath would contain the CV joint grease inside the joint as the boot is tight to the actual joint. The Subaru joint is external to the joint and seemingly would allow grease to transport out of the joint and into the boot.

As the sheath is metal and would convey heat to the actual joint on which it is mounted, I'm guessing that it's real purpose is not for heat protection of the boot, but to confine the boot (and grease) under high shaft rpm's encounted at higher vehicle speeds.

Originally Posted by aviator79 View Post
Maybe wrap on oem DP is all needed. Maybe im wrong and will fail no matter what...

Actually just had a thought on it with your idea that RPMs is issue. Dont over grease it. Maybe the grease caused boot to become out of balance. Use syringe to apply just right amount.

I know I probably put too much in and wonder if that caused issue.
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