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 Old 11-14-2018, 10:45 AM   #1
 
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Default New caliper, soft pedal

My front left caliper had a seized piston. I replaced the caliper. Easy enough. Bled the brakes extensively. Started it up, soft pedal. Pumped it a few times, drove it around, soft pedal. Bled brakes again, no air bubbles coming out. pedal firm. Start engine, pedal immediately soft. What did I do wrong?
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 Old 11-14-2018, 11:17 AM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
My front left caliper had a seized piston. I replaced the caliper. Easy enough. Bled the brakes extensively. Started it up, soft pedal. Pumped it a few times, drove it around, soft pedal. Bled brakes again, no air bubbles coming out. pedal firm. Start engine, pedal immediately soft. What did I do wrong?
You still have air in the system. Try bleeding all four corners starting with the furthest to the closest caliper in relation to the master cylinder.
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 Old 11-14-2018, 11:39 AM   #3
 
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Okay I will try more bleeding tomorrow starting with rear. The other thing I noticed is that if you slam on the brakes the car pulls hard the the right. It didnt do that before. Idk what that means.
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 Old 11-15-2018, 08:32 AM   #4
 
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That means there is air in the line of the caliper you just replaced.
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 Old 11-15-2018, 08:43 AM   #5
 
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I have completely flushed that line by now though. Ok, I guess I will try to flush it again.
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 Old 11-15-2018, 09:42 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
I have completely flushed that line by now though. Ok, I guess I will try to flush it again.
Jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands. It will help any air bubbles in the line rise to the top. Hopefully.

Sometimes it can be a bear to get all the air out. You may want to try using a bleeder bottle. Amazon carries them.
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 Old 11-15-2018, 10:11 AM   #7
 
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Okay tell me how far I'm supposed to crack the bleeder bolt. Do I turn it to where I barely get anything out and pedal is firm? Or do I crack it a tiny bit more where I can push the pedal to the floor and get more fluid and bubbles, but also some fluid is coming out around the threads which makes me think the bubbles are just being introduced into the system. There is no happy medium. I have been bleeding using the barely cracked method which has gotten me nowhere. So I will try the method where I am getting bubbles I guess and see what that does.
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 Old 11-15-2018, 02:25 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
Okay tell me how far I'm supposed to crack the bleeder bolt. Do I turn it to where I barely get anything out and pedal is firm? Or do I crack it a tiny bit more where I can push the pedal to the floor and get more fluid and bubbles, but also some fluid is coming out around the threads which makes me think the bubbles are just being introduced into the system. There is no happy medium. I have been bleeding using the barely cracked method which has gotten me nowhere. So I will try the method where I am getting bubbles I guess and see what that does.
TLDR;

I'm sure you already know the proper procedure but....

You should connect a piece of tubing to the end of the bleeder valve and direct it into a bottle.

Then have someone in the car pump the brakes not too fast but firmly around 5-6 times to build pressure. Then have them hold it firmly to the floor and open the bleeder valve a quarter turn.

That should allow the fluid to rush out along with the bubbles. Don't just crack it. Open it enough to allow the fluid to rush out. Then close/tighten the bleeder, release the brake pedal. And repeat.
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 Old 11-15-2018, 05:43 PM   #9
 
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If the bleeder valve is still open when the pedal hits the floor, there is a chance air can get back in.
So when I'm doing the bleeder, I only have it open for a quick second.
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 Old 11-16-2018, 09:45 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by njdurkin View Post
Okay tell me how far I'm supposed to crack the bleeder bolt. Do I turn it to where I barely get anything out and pedal is firm? Or do I crack it a tiny bit more where I can push the pedal to the floor and get more fluid and bubbles, but also some fluid is coming out around the threads which makes me think the bubbles are just being introduced into the system. There is no happy medium. I have been bleeding using the barely cracked method which has gotten me nowhere. So I will try the method where I am getting bubbles I guess and see what that does.
This thing works awesome. Bled my entire clutch circuit from completely dry to full bled in no time.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfo.../dp/B00F9XHVKA
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 Old 11-21-2018, 11:59 PM   #11
 
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If you didn't clamp or plug the brake line when you changed the caliper, air could have gotten into 1) the ABS pump, or 2) into the master cylinder.
1. A cool trick I picked up from Eric the Car Guy for bleeding the ABS pump is to invoke ABS on a loose surface a few times -- works like a charm and so easy to do. This alone will make the pedal firmer; and then you'll go ahead and bleed the brakes to purge the air that the ABS pump has forced into the calipers.
2. If bleeding the ABS pump doesn't work, then you're looking at bleeding the master cylinder. I find bleeding a master cylinder to be an art that takes practice to master. Plus, on the MS6 it's in a really inaccessible position; I'm not sure about the MS3 location.

My guess is you'll only need to bleed the ABS pump and then the brakes, in that order, and you'll be fine.
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