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 Old 01-13-2012, 12:37 PM   #1
 
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Default Rear wheel bearings.

ok posted pics I took (First write up so it may suck lol. steps may be confusing also)





REAR WHEEL HUB AND BEARINGS

GET YOUR PARTS BEFORE YOUR START AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE RIGHT!!!!!

First off things you will need:

you will have to take off the whole Knuckel
A Press to get the bearing and hub in and out.
Jacks/ Jackstands
3/8 32mm SOCKET
17mm socket
14mm socket
Hammer
screwdriver
another car to go to the Brakeshop


1 TAKE OFF YOUR WHEEL
1.5 take out 32mm Nut on center of hub with e-brake on!

2 REMOVE BRAKE/CAILAPERS



3 REMOVE SPEED SENSOR, I used pliers and turned the bracket DONT pull on the wire. make sure to unbolt bracket.





4 TAKE OFF ROTOR (two screws then hit it with a mallet or somthing)



5 UNBOLT STRUT LOWER BOLT (use a small jack to get the tension off the bolt)



6 UNBOLT UPPER ARM
** MAKE SURE YOU DONT MIX UP BOLTS AND NUTS THEY ARE NOT THE SAME**



7 UNBOLT THE LOWER SPRING TOWER (small jack here also) (SRY NO PIC)



8 UNBOLT THE FOUR BOLTS HOLDING IT ON





ONCE YOU HAVE THE WHOLE KNUCKEL OFF YOU HAVE TO BRING IT TO A BRAKE SHOP (CALL AND SEE IF THEY WILL DO IT FIRST) MOST CHARGE 50-60 BUCKS TO PRESS OUT THE OLD ONES AND PUT NEW ONES IN.

PUTTING BACK IN THE KNUCKEL Line up the Four bolts on the front side & the spring arm first, get someone to help makes it alot easier to do.


I linked my pics from 247 so If you login over there you can see the pics.
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Last edited by Matx; 02-06-2012 at 03:19 AM.
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 Old 02-01-2012, 08:11 PM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by Matx View Post
......


ONCE YOU HAVE THE WHOLE KNUCKEL OFF YOU HAVE TO BRING IT TO A BRAKE SHOP (CALL AND SEE IF THEY WILL DO IT FIRST) MOST CHARGE 50-60 BUCKS TO PRESS OUT THE OLD ONES AND PUT NEW ONES IN.....


Thanks for this post Mat. I've been referencing it and other similar write-ups throughout the day. I'm doing the same - rear wheel bearings in a 2006 MS6, 109,000 miles. I've run into a snag though, hence my post.


I need a little more info/help fellas, please.


I had everything disconnected from the rear knuckle (axle nut off too), but:
  • The axle will not budge from the hub - I tried a dead blow hammer, no dice.
  • Therefore I cannot remove the knuckle from the area
  • Which prevents me from being able to press the old bearings out and the new ones in
  • I put the rear end back together already without finishing the job since I need the car in the morning


I downloaded the MS6 workshop manual (from Crew6, I think?), and it doesn't say anything about sliding the axle/splines from the hub. I have a press, dies/drivers/plates, puller/bearing separator(s), air tools - Did I miss something?


Anything y'all got would be much appreciated



Here's a picture from page 1760/3238 (03-13-30) in the MS6 workshop manual for reference:







Here's a picture from page 1725/3238 (3-12-5) in the MS6 workshop manual for reference:







I'm not seeing what's preventing the axle from being withdrawn the hub. Bigger hammer, perhaps?




.

Last edited by Ashy Larry; 02-01-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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 Old 02-02-2012, 11:08 PM   #3
 
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Out of curiosity, I subscribed to this thread, and within a little while of my post I received a forwarded email - another member's response to the thread. Though once I logged back in to view the member's post, there was nothing here. I don't mean to intrude and don't want to jeopardize my membership, but what happened?

I saved the forwarded email (which contained a link to another thread, which I cannot view for some reason). Since it seems that the post was deleted, would it be frowned upon if I posted the content of the email/deleted post and it's link?

I've attempted sending a PM to the author of the post, but that "right" has not yet been granted to me since my post count is under 15.

Administrators, can one of you set me straight on this? I just want to get my car fixed up (and help any others in the process). I'd really be grateful

If I need to become a "paid subscriber" I will happily do so


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 Old 02-04-2012, 09:33 AM   #4
 
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Pete, no idea how to get the knuckle off, as I've never done wheel bearings. I don't even have a MS6, LOL. Out of curiosity, though, besides the mileage alone what made you decide to replace your wheel bearings? Were they making a sound?
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 Old 02-04-2012, 11:32 AM   #5
 
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that axle is stuck to the hub. sometimes it takes a air hammer to push it in. or sometimes two people and a mini sledge. just hope its not siezed too bad.
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 Old 02-06-2012, 03:16 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Ashy Larry View Post
Thanks for this post Mat. I've been referencing it and other similar write-ups throughout the day. I'm doing the same - rear wheel bearings in a 2006 MS6, 109,000 miles. I've run into a snag though, hence my post.


I need a little more info/help fellas, please.


I had everything disconnected from the rear knuckle (axle nut off too), but:
  • The axle will not budge from the hub - I tried a dead blow hammer, no dice.
  • Therefore I cannot remove the knuckle from the area
  • Which prevents me from being able to press the old bearings out and the new ones in
  • I put the rear end back together already without finishing the job since I need the car in the morning


I downloaded the MS6 workshop manual (from Crew6, I think?), and it doesn't say anything about sliding the axle/splines from the hub. I have a press, dies/drivers/plates, puller/bearing separator(s), air tools - Did I miss something?


Anything y'all got would be much appreciated



Here's a picture from page 1760/3238 (03-13-30) in the MS6 workshop manual for reference:







Here's a picture from page 1725/3238 (3-12-5) in the MS6 workshop manual for reference:







I'm not seeing what's preventing the axle from being withdrawn the hub. Bigger hammer, perhaps?




.
I used a tool like this, I forgot to throw that in there. OEM/FWD Hub Puller (27037) | Axle Flange Puller | AutoZone.com

And make sure you have the right hub/bearing I got mine from napa.
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 Old 02-08-2012, 12:31 PM   #7
 
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The job is complete, and I'd like to thank places like these for hosting information us do-it-yourselfers need to accomplish tasks


You may need to use some type of puller to free the axle from the hub, I used one of these (a 6" inch puller is the right size for the MS6 hub, you can find them just about anywhere, around $5-10) - make sure you leave the knuckle's attaching bolts in for this part until the axle is free. Note the antiseize on the threads of the puller and in the dimple in the axle end - do this, it'll make it a lot easier to turn with your socket. When reassembling, use plenty of antiseize on all mounting faces. Not sure if it is common, but my left rear axle was seized in the hub much worse than the right rear - then again, my left rear bearing was far worse also.







Then disconnect the knuckle from all it's attachments, press the hub out of the bearing from the back side, REMOVE C-Clip!! Then press bearing out of the knuckle, press new bearing back in, install C-clip, press hub into bearing, then reinstall knuckle onto vehicle.


A hint on the bearings - Timken's MS6 rear bearings are actually Koyo's (I install Koyo's everywhere bearings are used in all of my bikes have and they've been very good - I will update this thread every few thousand miles to let y'all know how they hold up).








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 Old 02-15-2012, 05:58 AM   #8
 
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Keep us posted on how the bearings are doing .
Where did you get them ? How much where they ?
Part numbers ? I need to do my front and rears .
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 Old 02-15-2012, 10:03 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by jracer View Post
Keep us posted on how the bearings are doing .
Where did you get them ? How much where they ?
Part numbers ? I need to do my front and rears .


Hey John, I got your PM. Sorry, but I can't reply to PM's since my post count is so low. I already posted the link as to where I got them (prices listed in link), but I'll just re-post it below since it's pertinent. I've rolled just over 1,100 miles on the bearings - so far, so good, nice, quiet, smooth. I got them through Wheel Bearing Warehouse (<-- link), Item # TIM 510010 (List: $100.87) (Unit Price: $30.26) (Total Price shipped: $60.52 for both). Fronts, you will need to look up. I replaced mine...at the dealership - never again will I pay for anyone to service my vehicle.


It seems failure around 100,000 miles on these cars is common - namely wheel bearings and brakes. It's been necessary on my 06 to do it all and I just passed 110K - just a heads up to those approaching that mileage (offset wheels might influence that at an earlier mileage).


Sidenote:
As long as y'all have your cars up in the air, I'd also recommend switching out the rear differential, transfer-case, and tranny lube (if you haven't done it yet). Make sure you have BOTH 23 and 24 MM sockets and box-wrenches - you will need them.





Originally Posted by Ashy Larry View Post

Timken's MS6 rear bearings are actually Koyo's (I install Koyo's everywhere bearings are used in all of my bikes have and they've been very good - I will update this thread every few thousand miles to let y'all know how they hold up).


(by the way, I just called Wheel Bearing Warehouse - their site is down currently for updates, so "check back in an hour or two")
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 Old 02-15-2012, 10:08 AM   #10
 
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thanks for the info..
i looked at there web site but it says parts unavailable..
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 Old 02-15-2012, 02:08 PM   #11
 
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Yep John, I called them and they told me what I mentioned in red in my previous post




Originally Posted by Ashy Larry View Post
(by the way, I just called Wheel Bearing Warehouse - their site is down currently for updates, so "check back in an hour or two")
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 Old 04-25-2012, 07:19 AM   #12
 
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@dubunderpar - If this happens to be the issue, this is a nice illustrated guide.
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 Old 04-25-2012, 04:14 PM   #13
 
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Looks like I will be doing this tomorrow.
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 Old 06-06-2012, 09:31 PM   #14
 
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A hint on the bearings - Timken's MS6 rear bearings are actually Koyo's (I install Koyo's everywhere bearings are used in all of my bikes have and they've been very good - I will update this thread every few thousand miles to let y'all know how they hold up).



Total sidenote, but the "zoom in picture" on Wheel Bearing Warehouse's site shows the bearing as having a "Canada" inscription on it. Note that it is a "representative image", as listed on the picture. Canadian made is not the case with the MS6 Timken rear bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong, though I doubt I am







11,000 miles and the Timken / Koyo wheel/axle bearings in the rear of the Speed6 are doing good, so far.

Here's to another 10K+




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 Old 06-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #15
 
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I just did this this week using this thread, and the factory service manual. I only drove it around the block, but so far, everything appears to work just right. On the plus side, I didn't have any extra parts so I must have done something right.

Thanks for the information guys!
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 Old 06-21-2014, 07:12 AM   #16
 
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Is there a torque spec for putting the back on?

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 Old 06-24-2014, 06:15 AM   #17
 
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I did my rear bearings about 4 months ago and installed Timken bearings. Absolutely no issues so far. They were highly recommended.
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hey midrange; I am getting ready to replace my rear wheel bearings, any xtra info on the job.This is my first time swapping rear bearings.thx
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 Old 01-28-2015, 03:01 PM   #19
 
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Little update for anyone who's curious about the longevity of the Japanese Koyo's/Timkens - just rolled over 70k on the Timkens/Koyos in our 06. I bet they'll last just as long as the factory ones did (100k).

Pick them up on Amazon, like $33/bearing and free shipping.

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 Old 01-31-2015, 08:13 PM   #20
 
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So how fucked am I if the speed sensor broke? I tried taking it out like stated above after taking the bolt off and the sensor snapped.
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 Old 02-01-2015, 11:54 AM   #21
 
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Not bad at all. Personally, I'd get a used one off a junk car on eBay, by here's a glimpse of what they cost new.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...,parttype,1912

Take old one out, put in replacement. Worse thing, til the new is in you won't have ABS
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 Old 02-18-2016, 08:43 AM   #22
 
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Need a little clarification.
So even if your doing a hub replacement they are just press fit.
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 Old 02-18-2016, 10:10 AM   #23
 
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I'm guessing if your "hub" is in need of replacement, as you say, you're going to need to replace the bearing(s) as well. The MS6 is NOT like the regular 6's in regards to bearings/hubs. Parts DO NOT interchange. The 6's have a bolt on style hub/bearing assembly and the knuckle stays ON the car. With the MS6 the knuckle must come off the car AND every component (hub/bearing/knuckle) must be pressed apart/together. Obviously the knuckle gets unbolted from car (no pressing it on or off the car).

I don't really see how just your hub is bad though. I'd guess your hub is fine and the bearing/races are all chewed up. The hubs are almost always fine on these though. Unless you messed up your hub up beating on it or jacked up your studs somehow. But in that case, just replace the studs. See above for more details/pictures, but you basically take the rotor/caliper/carrier & wheel speed sensor off, then have to take the entire knuckle off that corner of the car, press hub out of the bearing/knuckle, snap the cir-clip out NOW, then press the bearing out of the knuckle. The hub is the first thing you press out of the assembly and the last thing you press back in. YouTube has some pretty good videos on pressing bearings in/out of knuckles and cutting races off hubs (almost a certainty you'll have to cut/notch the outer race and smack it with a chisel to free it from the hub). Doesn't matter if the video is on a different vehicle, the concept is the same w/pressing bearings on the MS6.

Did I answer your question?
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 Old 02-18-2016, 10:33 AM   #24
 
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Oh...now I see said the blindman....no point buying the hub because they too are press fit...so now I understand...I was thinking they were like the front where you can unbolt the whole thing and just replace. Oh well...just another saga on my rebuild.

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 Old 02-18-2016, 04:30 PM   #25
 
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Yes, exactly. See in the pic below (top left zoomed in pic) - part number 15 is your hub. You do NOT need to order one of these, yours will be perfectly fine once you cut & smack the race off of it. Part 17 (bearing) is all you need to have on hand. That is unless you manage to mangle up your wheel speed sensor like some folks have accidentally done.
When reassembling, make sure you clean up your axle splines real good and be generous with anti-seize as well. One other thing on disassembly - You'll most likely need a puller to get your axle to budge loose from the hub splines like I did. Well, maybe not since you probably don't have much salt on your winter roads. I'd still make sure I had one laying around just in case though.

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 Old 10-21-2018, 07:15 PM   #26
 
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Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm in the middle of this right now and i was wondering if there is a trick to getting the speed sensor out. I snapped the head off of the bolt holding it on and figured it would be easier to drill out with the knuckle off but I can't get the sensor to move at all. I've been soaking it with pb blaster for the past week. Any help is appreciated
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 Old 10-22-2018, 07:19 AM   #27
 
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Can you keep it and just disconnect the wire somewhere ? Good chances you will break it if you pry the head...On the cx7 front, i turned the round part with visegrip. I did success but i was afraid to get a CEL after but it wasn't damaged...
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 Old 10-22-2018, 01:18 PM   #28
 
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On the rear, the sensor harness plug is behind the rear seat corner bolsters. Should be able to unplug and pull the harness out through a hole in the wheel well.
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 Old 10-22-2018, 03:06 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
On the rear, the sensor harness plug is behind the rear seat corner bolsters. Should be able to unplug and pull the harness out through a hole in the wheel well.
Would be the best option on a 10+ years old car. Especially if you can remove the bearing without removing the sensor...I will check this also because i have the passenger rear side to replace soon on my 6....
And if it is that much seized, you may not bother with the broken bolt...
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 Old 10-23-2018, 11:15 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
On the rear, the sensor harness plug is behind the rear seat corner bolsters. Should be able to unplug and pull the harness out through a hole in the wheel well.
I was able to see where the harness comes in to the car by lifting up back seat but couldn't find the plug at all. I also came through the trunk but it was the same thing, I could see where the harness comes in but not where it is connected. Any tips?
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 Old 10-23-2018, 11:56 AM   #31
 
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Did you remove the back corner bolster pieces?
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 Old 10-23-2018, 12:21 PM   #32
 
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I did not. Is it bolted on? I'm at work right now and not able to look. I really appreciate your help, nothing on this car has been easy to work on.
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 Old 10-23-2018, 02:04 PM   #33
 
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Copy pasted from something I googled...

"...go inside and remove the side seat cushions. Remove the bolt at the bottom (14mm socket) and DO NOT PRY on it. You need to look behind the cushion at the top and see a black triangle. Push it aside and the side cushion is released. Now look down below where the bolt was, right next to the plastic trim you will see a small white plug, this is the ABS wheel speed sensor harness. Unplug it and feed it outside the car."
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Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
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CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken
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2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44)
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 Old 11-19-2018, 09:36 AM   #34
 
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did mine last week-end and that text above was very usefull. The black triangle need the seat to be fold down to be seen...

Another important side note, All long bolt nuts are m12x1.25 has mazda usual but the nuts for the trailing arm (knuckle studs) are M12x1.5!!!!!
They all look the same but if you try to use 1.5 rusted nut on 1.25 bolts and you use an impact to ''break loose the rust'', it may take a little longer to finish the job
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1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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