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 Old 03-21-2015, 12:48 PM   #1
 
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Default Turbo timer install (without cutting wires)

Whether youre running (or getting ready to run) a non watercooled turbo, or just enjoy people looking at you funny for walking away while your car is running, a turbo timer is a great way to achieve this. Im not a fan of cutting or splicing factory wires, even non intrusive taps can sometimes cause proplems, so ill show you how to wire a timer up using add a fuses.
Run your wires to your interior fuse box under the glove box.
Attach your constant power wire to the fuse marked sun roof.
attach the switched power wire to the fuse marked engine.
Attach the wire to your ignition (to keep the car running) to the fuse marked ignition.
Last, attach your ground to a convinient ground point. I ran mine to the factory ground under the kick pannel by the passenger door, and run your ebrake wire (unfortunately you will have to use a wire tap here.

Important note, I see alot of people installing add a fuses incorrectly. The pin closest to the wire output is connected to that wire, so you need to make sure the other pin is the one that goes into the "hot" side of the fuse jack. You can use a volt meter to find out which side gets power. In the case of the ms3 the fuse pin closest you is the power in, the one closest the fire wall is the power out (to whatever the fuse feeds). So in other words, you would want the wire out of the add a fuse to be pointing toward the fire wall. If you flip the add a fuse the other way, you will not have a fused line. I hope this makes sence.

In the picture it shows what fuses to run the wires too. I only had one add a fuse left, I simply stuck the wires in there to make sure it worked. Make sure to actually use the add a fuse.

If you install it the way I have shown you, your car will lock and the alarm will set normally. The way its wired leaves only the dash cluster with power (radio, info displays, etc. Will be off) which is necissary for the cars fob to lock the car while the timer is keeping car running.

EDIT: the add a fuse in the far right bottom is running to my boost gauge to control the dimming feature, not to the turbo timer.
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Last edited by cam1391; 03-21-2015 at 02:39 PM.
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 Old 08-24-2015, 02:49 PM   #2
 
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mini grave dig.

Thanks for the writeup. I - apparently - don't wait long enough to turn my car off after parking. This caused build up in my turbo (GTX3076) at the oil drain and eventually stopped the shaft from spinning (confirmed by a local Garrett re-manufacturer).

So I will be installing a turbo timer to help combat my lack of waiting.. Especially with the new setup that gets super hot. I will post back with some HD pictures for folks.
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 Old 08-24-2015, 03:10 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 View Post
mini grave dig.

Thanks for the writeup. I - apparently - don't wait long enough to turn my car off after parking. This caused build up in my turbo (GTX3076) at the oil drain and eventually stopped the shaft from spinning (confirmed by a local Garrett re-manufacturer).

So I will be installing a turbo timer to help combat my lack of waiting.. Especially with the new setup that gets super hot. I will post back with some HD pictures for folks.
I'm curious to see pictures, and for more details on the failure. How long was "not long enough" typically? Is there a recommended procedure or time from the Garrett re-manufacturer?
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 Old 08-24-2015, 03:14 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by WetzMS3 View Post
I'm curious to see pictures, and for more details on the failure. How long was "not long enough" typically? Is there a recommended procedure or time from the Garrett re-manufacturer?
Never asked tbh. But I knew it was my fault. At times it'd be less than 10 seconds from the time I park and the time I turn the car off. Me being ignorant didn't think much of it. But over a course of a year, it built up apparently. They soaked all components and rebuilt it and it worked like a charm until I bent the shaft and seized the whole thing lol.

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 Old 08-24-2015, 03:44 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 View Post
Never asked tbh. But I knew it was my fault. At times it'd be less than 10 seconds from the time I park and the time I turn the car off. Me being ignorant didn't think much of it. But over a course of a year, it built up apparently. They soaked all components and rebuilt it and it worked like a charm until I bent the shaft and seized the whole thing lol.

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Good god, I was wondering what caused the second failure. I was almost positive it was the heat from such a small housing causing full time, no matter the throttle, boost.. lol glad its situated mate
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 Old 09-23-2015, 12:33 PM   #6
 
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Bump, just realized this is the speed6 section.

But works for a 3 as well. I'll make a new post sometime this week in the speed3 section with my inputs and a few pictures and diagrams.

uploadfromtaptalk1443033160976.jpg

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 Old 09-28-2015, 09:05 PM   #7
 
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Speed3 edition:
Turbo Timer install without splicing into the ECU harness

Thanks again @cam1391
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 Old 09-29-2015, 09:53 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 View Post
Awsome job mate!
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 Old 04-10-2018, 11:11 AM   #9
 
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Just curious, it looks like this guide is for the Speed6, I don't believe there is a fuse box below the glove box on the speed6.
Super Old grave dig up post here.
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 Old 04-10-2018, 02:10 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Anubis450 View Post
Just curious, it looks like this guide is for the Speed6, I don't believe there is a fuse box below the glove box on the speed6.
Super Old grave dig up post here.
I am working on the same problem of installing a HKS Type 1 and just found this guide and I am also confused about the fuse box under the glove box
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 Old 04-10-2018, 02:16 PM   #11
 
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Because it was written for a speed 3. Duh!
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 Old 04-10-2018, 02:42 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
Because it was written for a speed 3. Duh!
Hmmm, a bit confusing but ok.

Anyone knows if this way will work in a 6 too ?
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