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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes.


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 Old 03-18-2015, 09:44 AM   #1201
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Actually pretty easy to drop the front a 1/2" with the bils. It only requires grinding of a little notch on the lower tap to slide the damper body further into the knuckle. It takes much more work on the stockers and Konis.

I am so sorry for reviving this old thread,
but it bugs me SO MUCH that my car is higher in the front than the rear with my bils and swift springs.

Is this literally all you need to do? Just cut that tiny tab off? I'm assuming you just need to get a sharpie pen and precisely measure everything so it's even.

Also, could you just bend the little tab into it's hole just incase you ever wanted to put them back to the way they were, because technically this voids your warranty.

But then I don't understand what stops the strut from completely falling into the knuckle at high speeds over a bump or something.

Is it really just that one bolt holding the strut in place? lol
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 Old 03-18-2015, 11:39 AM   #1202
 
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there is a bolt in the knuckle that will stop the tab from going further.
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 Old 03-18-2015, 11:40 AM   #1203
 
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You mean the one and only bolt holding the strut in?
Or is there one I missed lol.


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 Old 03-18-2015, 12:06 PM   #1204
 
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Originally Posted by pandita View Post
You mean the one and only bolt holding the strut in?
Or is there one I missed lol.


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Originally Posted by pandita View Post

But then I don't understand what stops the strut from completely falling into the knuckle at high speeds over a bump or something.
yes. that one.
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 Old 03-18-2015, 03:01 PM   #1205
 
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Perfect. I'll do it in the coming days.


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 Old 03-26-2015, 12:33 AM   #1206
 
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Has anyone with b8's ridden in a car with FSD's (and maybe cs springs) and able to compare? I'm split on which set to get. Tempted to try @Raider's setup.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 07:20 AM   #1207
 
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
My rear B8s are factory-set to a pretty fast(firmer) rebound, which makes for a more lively and nervous feel over rough pavement, but not harsh with stock springs. Not harsh, but busy, and no way to change it.

I've set my front Koni Yellows to just under a 1/4 turn from full Slow(soft) rebound, which is about where I would expect the FSDs to feel according to reports, which feels stable and smooth, without the floaty feel of a slightly stiffer setting, or the busy and harsh feel of full Firm. At full Soft, it feels a little flat over bumps, and a little washed-out in corners.

The B8s feel like the Sport Yellows on at least a full turn closer to Firm. If I had it to do over again, I'd get the Sport Yellows in the rear too, and adjust the rebound to about the same as the fronts for a stable, but not washed-out feel, and a less nervous rear.
fast rebound ≠ firm rebound

The firmer the rebound damping, the slower the piston will extend.

Conversely, the softer the rebound damping, the faster the piston will extend.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 07:35 AM   #1208
 
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
fast=firm setting on the konis.
Explain yourself.

Soft to Firm is how it works. If you insist on putting "speed" labels on the settings, then it stands to reason that you should use a descriptor that follows what the damper is doing. Softer rebound damping allows faster damper piston movement, and firmer rebound damping allows the damper piston to move less easily (more slowly, in the terms I guess you insist on using).
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 Old 03-26-2015, 08:15 AM   #1209
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
firmer setting on damper allows piston/spring to return faster, makes for floaty feel. same as my mtb shocks.
No, that's not how damping works. The more force there is, the more resistance there is at a specific velocity.

Imagine no damper at all - the spring oscillates at its resonant frequency. That's the fastest the spring will ever move. Now add damping force to either the compression or extension phase of the oscillation - that force RESISTS the springs movement, slowing it down.

Now add a bunch of damping, way more than is necessary. That force will actually prevent the spring from returning to neutral until it has slowed WAY down. That process takes much, much longer than undamped movement or critical damping, otherwise known as overdamped.

Extrapolating in the overdamped situation a little bit and you can see that successive bumps can actually force the car to ride lower or higher over those successive bumps - aka jacking - because the movement is so slowed the system can't return to neutral before the next bump.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 08:38 AM   #1210
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
Soft is slow rebound, more damping, jacking down.
No.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 08:48 AM   #1211

 
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
yeah, it's just how the shock company labels it. The Fox shock on my mtb has slow and fast on it, meaning slow or fast return.
Bro, that was so people know if you're serious or not. Like they roll up next to you, and you got your shit set on fast, they don't want a piece. And if it's set on slow, race for pinks.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 08:52 AM   #1212
 
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
yes.


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 Old 03-26-2015, 09:00 AM   #1213

 
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
yes.
Please, tell me more. I want to learn your ways. How can I get shocks that defy physics?
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 Old 03-26-2015, 09:02 AM   #1214
 
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Proposed name change:

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 Old 03-26-2015, 09:16 AM   #1215

 
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Originally Posted by license2ill View Post
first you've got to understand physics and simple language, tough guy.
I didn't make it all the way through ESL. Maybe that's the problem. Although, maybe if you explain it slowly I'll get it.

It might take a while for me to understand, but after I get it I'll go back and explain it to my old physics, controls, and design teachers that they all had it wrong this whole time.

We might be starting a new era in suspension design where decreasing damping coefficient increases force at a given velocity. Can you picture the magnitude of this?! Maybe we can take this breakthrough to other applications. Maybe if we oil our tires and reduce friction coefficient we'll get more traction!!
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 Old 03-26-2015, 09:36 AM   #1216
 
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Regardless of the fast/slow descriptors, which are not accurate, the Bilstein HDs on my car are extremely firm with stock springs. Especially on compression, less so on rebound or extension, if I am using those terms correctly. My HD's (B6's) are, I think we established perhaps earlier in this long thread, identical to the B8s except for shaft length.

Now, in honesty, I have tires with very stiff sidewalls, Yoko AD08Rs. That contributes to the firmness. This is especially noticable when encountering expansion strips on the highway. The combination is extremely effective from a handling standpoint, with amazing grip and very precise body motion control. But any semblance of a soft ride is gone.

My wife and most female passengers (daughter, co-workers, etc.) are not thrilled to ride in my car. But, I am.
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 Old 03-27-2015, 11:29 AM   #1217
 
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@license2ill; i have a question for you regarding...

oh, wait. nevermind.
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 Old 04-05-2015, 12:15 AM   #1218
 
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Did you guys notice a ride height change after installing the bilstein's? My front is higher than my rear by about a finger. I noticed the previous owner installed bilsteins in the front. Rear oem shocks. Oem springs f+r.
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 Old 04-05-2015, 05:11 AM   #1219
 
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Did Bilst B8 with Cobb springs. Front seems lower than the back which is what I wanted. I am trying to do everything possible to prevent the front lifting during WOT.
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 Old 04-05-2015, 06:43 AM   #1220
 
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Originally Posted by kt411gcn View Post
Did you guys notice a ride height change after installing the bilstein's? My front is higher than my rear by about a finger. I noticed the previous owner installed bilsteins in the front. Rear oem shocks. Oem springs f+r.
No. But I put B6s on all four corners at the same time and stayed with stock springs.
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 Old 04-24-2016, 05:12 AM   #1221
 
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The front B8s are the same for both gens, but the rears have different part#. Does anyone know what is the difference between the 24-196550 (listed for gen2) and 24-215237 (listed for gen1)?

For the B14 coilover kit the parts are exactly the same so I don't know what the difference between these two B8 rear dampers may be since both gens basically share the same suspension parts.
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 Old 04-24-2016, 08:08 AM   #1222
 
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The rear shocks have different width shock eye bushings:

Gen2 shocks on gen1

gen 1 to gen 2 suspension
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 Old 04-24-2016, 12:18 PM   #1223
 
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Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 View Post
The rear shocks have different width shock eye bushings:
Ok, so just to be sure, for fitting a gen1 rear shock to a gen2 all that's needed is a longer bolt (gen1 bolt) to accommodate the wider mounting ear, right?
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 Old 04-24-2016, 06:53 PM   #1224
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Ok, so just to be sure, for fitting a gen1 rear shock to a gen2 all that's needed is a longer bolt (gen1 bolt) to accommodate the wider mounting ear, right?
Correct. I always just tell people to ask the parts guy for two "camber arm" bolts (the outboard ones, specifically) as they are the perfect size.
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 Old 04-24-2016, 07:38 PM   #1225
 
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and here I am looking up rear shocks as one of mine starting leaving puddles in the driveway today! At least it isn't brake fluid...

Ordered up a set of bilstein B6's to go with the stock springs on my speed3.

Thanks for all the helpful info!
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 Old 06-04-2017, 02:56 PM   #1226
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ignore delete

Last edited by mhx; 06-05-2017 at 11:43 AM.
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 Old 06-26-2017, 07:57 PM   #1227
 
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After reading this thread and the swift springs thread I ordered B8s with Swift Spec R's to replace my 4 leaking KW v1 struts. I have a feeling both setups will feel the same (KW is progressive IIRC) but Swifts will be a bit higher, which is good since my kw v1s are tucking tire at the highest setting.

Enough of my storytelling, but I was reading in this thread to put shock boots over the rears to prevent them from wearing down prematurely.

Anyway I went to a local 4WD/offroading store and picked up pro-comp boots ( Pro Comp Suspension - Pro Comp Poly-Vinyl Shock Boot (Gray) - 12126 | 4WheelParts.com )
The top end of the boot is approx 40mm and wraps perfectly snug on the 2nd rib on the VW bump stops I ordered ( https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ta-1j0512131bf ), and the bottom end of the boot is approx 50mm so it goes over the whole strut/shock. It even comes with zip ties incase I want to make it snug to make sure nothing goes in or out. All the boots they had have 4 "holes" in them but aren't punched out unless wanted (see the 2 pinpoint holes here http://www.procompusa.com/suspension...artno=EXP12120 ), so its pretty much sealed unless you punch it open.

Just a lil bump incase anyone searches for a dust/shock boot and doesn't know which to order. These are hella cheap at $9.99 CAD for a pair, so around $6USD for two.
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 Old 06-27-2017, 05:05 AM   #1228
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I got B8s in the rear, about to order B8 fronts.. Using stock springs and replacing OEM junk.
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 Old 06-27-2017, 06:29 AM   #1229
 
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Originally Posted by mhx View Post
I got B8s in the rear, about to order B8 fronts.. Using stock springs and replacing OEM junk.
B8 with stock springs?
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 Old 06-30-2017, 05:57 PM   #1230
 
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Nothing wrong with using B8s with stock MS3 springs.
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 Old 06-30-2017, 09:25 PM   #1231
 
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it'll work.
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 Old 08-07-2018, 04:03 PM   #1232
 
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Got any pics? Also how come you ordered VW bump stops? Have you got wverything installed and if so how’d it all turn out. Did you do camber arms in the rear?
Thanks for any info


Originally Posted by Oshiguru View Post
After reading this thread and the swift springs thread I ordered B8s with Swift Spec R's to replace my 4 leaking KW v1 struts. I have a feeling both setups will feel the same (KW is progressive IIRC) but Swifts will be a bit higher, which is good since my kw v1s are tucking tire at the highest setting.

Enough of my storytelling, but I was reading in this thread to put shock boots over the rears to prevent them from wearing down prematurely.

Anyway I went to a local 4WD/offroading store and picked up pro-comp boots ( Pro Comp Suspension - Pro Comp Poly-Vinyl Shock Boot (Gray) - 12126 | 4WheelParts.com )
The top end of the boot is approx 40mm and wraps perfectly snug on the 2nd rib on the VW bump stops I ordered ( https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ta-1j0512131bf ), and the bottom end of the boot is approx 50mm so it goes over the whole strut/shock. It even comes with zip ties incase I want to make it snug to make sure nothing goes in or out. All the boots they had have 4 "holes" in them but aren't punched out unless wanted (see the 2 pinpoint holes here http://www.procompusa.com/suspension...artno=EXP12120 ), so its pretty much sealed unless you punch it open.

Just a lil bump incase anyone searches for a dust/shock boot and doesn't know which to order. These are hella cheap at $9.99 CAD for a pair, so around $6USD for two.
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 Old 08-08-2018, 05:59 AM   #1233
 
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Originally Posted by Sierra248 View Post
Got any pics? Also how come you ordered VW bump stops? Have you got wverything installed and if so how’d it all turn out. Did you do camber arms in the rear?
Thanks for any info
You are replying to a post over a year old. He may not be keeping up with the thread. Might want to try PM to him if you want a quick response.
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 Old 09-02-2018, 12:01 AM   #1234
 
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Default Bilstein shocks for the ms3

Avaliable for sale again. E36 Bilstein sport shocks,

2 - brand new front monotube sport shocks,
2 - barely used rear sport shocks

650CAD obo takes them.

Dont have a digital camera so didnt take picture of the front shocks, but they are 100 brand new..

Below is a picture of the rear shocks

https://www.sportzfuel.com/
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Posted By For Type Date
Koni Yellow's or Blistein Sport shocks with stock springs? - Car This thread Refback 01-07-2012 07:45 PM
Koni Yellow's or Blistein Sport shocks with stock springs? - AcuraZine Community This thread Refback 03-23-2011 08:33 PM
Good read regarding suspension for the MPS3 using Bilsteins dampers (and koni's) This thread Refback 11-24-2010 01:42 PM

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