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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score First the clutch, then the rear calipers, next the fronts, did all four corners again till all blue came through, then back to the clutch. Used the two person method with a tube and a catch bottle. For the clutch: Pumped 3 times, held on the third, opened closed the bleeder, took pressure off the pedal and picked it up from the floor. Made sure the fluid was to the top of the reservoir the whole time. For the brakes: Pumped 3 times, held on the third, opened closed the bleeder, took pressure off the pedal. Brakes felt great, till I intentionally induced ABS to kick in on wet leaves. They now feel good, but not as great as they did till I induced ABS. Maybe old and new fluid mixed.... Any way to bleed the ABS portion of the brake system? How can I be sure there isn't air in the clutch line? (There shouldn't be, rather be safe.) Also to note it seemed like fluid came out of the threads when i was bleeding the clutch line. Could have been from yhe tube not sealing tight to the bleeder but I think it was from the threads. Any issue there? Thanks.
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Bump
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Unless you have Mazda computer to cycle the ABS, the only real way to cycle the ABS is to activate it on a slippery surface. If you think the pedal is not right, you should rebleed.
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I know when bleeding the brakes, the pedal doesn't initially go to the floor until you open the bleeder. When the pedal hits the floor, that's when you want to close the bleeder. I'm pretty sure that the clutch doesn't work this way since the pedal will go down to the floor right away. How do you know when to close the clutch bleeder before air backs in there?
__________________ 2007 Cosmic Blue Mazdaspeed 3 GT |
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A week later and after inducing ABS the clutch feels great and i think the brakes are fine too. Hard to test in cold conditions.
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Bringing back old thread -- is 1L of fluid enough for brake and clutch bleed or is more needed when doing both systems?
__________________ Brian 08 BlackMica MS3 GT |
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| Dirty Miamian ![]() Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Miami, FL
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__________________ 2010 LSM Speed3 Powered by Alcohol // Cobb AP // Cobb SRI // CP-E TIP // Tein SuperStreet Coilovers // SPC Camber Arms // JBR Dogbone RMM // KMD V3 FP // ATP 3" Full Catless Downpipe // Grimspeed EBCS // Forge BPV "What's a Mazdaspeed?" |
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Get two or more. For a full flush one may not be enough.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SpdFreak For This Useful Post: | Sid3wayS (09-20-2012) |
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Well since this was revived from the dead where can one find the bleeder for the clutch?
__________________ 2010 MS3 W/tech pkg Liquid Silver-Still Slower Then An Asthmatic Snail Cobb:Ap,Sri,Tip//JBR:Egr,Rsb,IM/TB Tigs,Rmm,Tmm//ATP:Catless long DP ETS:3.25" TMIC//M/D:OCC//Forge:v.2 BPV//AutoTech:FP Internals//PTP:Seals&studs Bosch:3-Bar//Grimmspeed:3-port EBCS//Stratified:G.A.//KW:Coilovers//RotaGrids:18x9.5 Meth/E85/Nitrous TUNING BY LEX |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score On the gen1, remove the under tray and its near the red boot.
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