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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes.


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 Old 12-09-2011, 11:43 AM   #1
 
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Default MS3 wheel bearing going out???

Getting a "waawaawaa" noise with some vibs from the front end and think maybe a wheel bearing is going out. Man, when 85k hit, shit just started failing! But for how hard I drive and Ohio winters I have to say she's held up pretty well.

So, is wheel bearing hard to change? Any other place to get them than the dealer?
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 Old 12-09-2011, 12:35 PM   #2
 
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I got mine from rockauto.com a while back b/c I though I needed them. Never installed them. Pretty sure you have to have them pressed out / in. Have the hub checked for damage too in case it's real bad. You can also buy the hub / bearing already assembled (for more obviously) and bypass the press.
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 Old 12-09-2011, 12:57 PM   #3
 
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Pretty detailed job, but not worth paying someone to do.. take the hub off your self and have a shop press the bearing in for you. Then reinstalled.. Probly will require a 10-20ton press.
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 Old 12-10-2011, 08:44 AM   #4
 
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I have a buddy that works at a dealership (not Mazda) so I'll have him check it out and I'm sure he has a press there. I probably need to do it soon too as everyday it gets worse and I drive at least 70 mi round trip to work. Just a busy time of year. I'm about to do my shocks/struts this weekend, is there anything I can check visually? I've never dealt with wheel bearings before.
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 Old 12-10-2011, 11:50 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by buckeyepost View Post
I have a buddy that works at a dealership (not Mazda) so I'll have him check it out and I'm sure he has a press there. I probably need to do it soon too as everyday it gets worse and I drive at least 70 mi round trip to work. Just a busy time of year. I'm about to do my shocks/struts this weekend, is there anything I can check visually? I've never dealt with wheel bearings before.
Not much you can do visually. Not only is the bearing a press fit, but it will most likely be covered in grease as well. You have to have the bearing out to check for damage like heavy scoring or seized rollers.

Jack the car up, put in neutral, and turn the wheel in question by hand. If it's the actual bearing, you're gonna hear it and feel it.
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 Old 12-11-2011, 11:34 AM   #6
 
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Ok, spun all 4 wheels by hand in the air and didn't hear/feel anything that sounded more than just the axles turning. I did notice that after I replaced the rear shocks just now and went on a test drive that whil going down my gravel driveway there is a knock sound and feel in the front end now too, like there is some play in something in the suspension????? I'm not planning on replacing the front sturts today but wonder if that will take care of it. I'm going to jack the front end back up and see if I can find anything loose.
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 Old 12-11-2011, 12:19 PM   #7
 
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Wheel bearings give a humming sound when they are going out. Constant best way to hear it is while driving with the window near the suspected bearing down. Next to a wall, or building so the sound bounces off it towards the cab.
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 Old 12-11-2011, 12:27 PM   #8
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Another thing I've experienced with past vehicles that had bad bearings was an unusual amount of grease on the wheel surface right around the lugs. That's not saying it happens to all cars, but I have seen it.
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 Old 12-11-2011, 12:30 PM   #9
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Had one on my focus go out, was a pulsating humming, that was pretty loud.
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 Old 12-12-2011, 06:50 AM   #10
 
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Is this your first winter with the RMM? When it gets cold, the urethane hardens and you can hear the gear noise of transmission/differential. It sounds like a waawaawaa noise but does not change or go away when turning. A bad wheel bearing will change noise if you weave the car left or right.
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 Old 12-12-2011, 07:10 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Boother View Post
Is this your first winter with the RMM? When it gets cold, the urethane hardens and you can hear the gear noise of transmission/differential. It sounds like a waawaawaa noise but does not change or go away when turning. A bad wheel bearing will change noise if you weave the car left or right.
It is my first winter with the RMM and that actually crossed my mind. I'll try swerving back and forth at lunch and see if it changes the sound. It has mostly been at cruising speed between 40-65mph and especially if I coast in neutral from 60mph slowly to a stop sign as the car slows. This makes more sense as I had rotated the front wheels by hand in the air and was shaking the wheels, axles, etc and couldn't find anything that seemed wrong. I'll report back in a couple hours.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 10:05 AM   #12
 
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My buddy who works on cars for a living took mine for a test drive and agreed it was the passenger front wheel bearing going out. So I'm trying to get the knuckle off while I do the front struts and sway bar links this weekend. The big 32mm hub nut has been through a few Ohio winters and that fucker does not want to budge! I soaked the shit out of it with PB blaster yesterday and tried to hit it with the impact air gun and a big ass breaker bar. I'm going to try heating it up with my wifes hair dryer here in a little bit and see if I can get it free.... Santa, if you're on MSF, will you get this fucking thing off for me tonight?
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 Old 12-24-2011, 10:24 AM   #13
 
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lol a hair dryer? Obviously, I'm guessing there's no heat gun/halogen light/torch available:

Go do hot laps and ride those brakes as much as you can without glazing them. The heat from you hitting the brakes > hair dryer.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 10:41 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Mizzle View Post
lol a hair dryer? Obviously, I'm guessing there's no heat gun/halogen light/torch available:

Go do hot laps and ride those brakes as much as you can without glazing them. The heat from you hitting the brakes > hair dryer.
LOL, I know but I got all the shit taken apart already so I can't drive it. I'll try to get a propane torch from my father-in-law tonight. Won't all that PB Blaster I sprayed on there ignite when I put fire to it though???
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 Old 12-24-2011, 10:57 AM   #15
 
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just barely got my axle but off this morning. my impact gun didnt budge it loose. ended up getting my breaker bar and a 3" extension and muscled that mother fucker off.

the axle i got from rock auto ended up being the wrong one. fucking awesome.

anyways, good luck.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 11:03 AM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by jroc View Post
just barely got my axle but off this morning. my impact gun didnt budge it loose. ended up getting my breaker bar and a 3" extension and muscled that mother fucker off.

the axle i got from rock auto ended up being the wrong one. fucking awesome.

anyways, good luck.
I'm assuming you meant 3' breaker bar, right? And that sucks about getting the wrong axle. Did you order it wrong or did RockAuto mess it up? I ordered my Moog swaybar links from there. Hoping they don't mess that up.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 11:15 AM   #17
 
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yea, a 3 foot breaker bar, plus a 3" extension attached to a 35mm axle nut socket. left all the suspension+ wheel on. definitely took some muscle though.

according to rock auto's parts catalog, it fits the car. so i ordered it. the axle i received is almost 2" longer than my OEM one.

trying to decide whether to buy a used axle, or a craps shoot on another new axle, different part number. i have a track weekend in 3 weeks.
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 Old 12-24-2011, 01:28 PM   #18
 
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Extensions reduce applied torque.

The PB may ignite/smoke, but not as bad as you think.
Set the torch up so it's hitting one side of the nut by itself and just sit there for a good 5 minutes watching it heat up, then hit the other side of the nut for like 2 minutes to distribute the heat. Attempt to remove.

If that doesn't work, get a glass of ice water. Heat the axle itself up from the center until it's as hot as it'll get, then hit it with a ton of ice water (not just a cup.) The rapid contraction can help break it loose.
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 Old 12-26-2011, 11:48 AM   #19
 
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Man, I can't get that fucking nut off! I put flame on it for a good 5-6 minutes and hit it with the impact gun, forward and reverse.. won't budge. And I already have the struts out of both sides so I can't use this breaker bar because the rotor just spins freely. I need to wait on parts (sway bar links and bump stops) anyway so I'll just stare at it on jack stands until then....
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 Old 12-26-2011, 12:16 PM   #20
 
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que?

Why don't you just stick a breaker bar in between the stud bolts and let it spin until it hits the floor...?
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 Old 12-26-2011, 02:36 PM   #21
 
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I thought about that but I don't have another one here. I'll check my shed for something tomorrow but I'm done effin with it today.
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 Old 12-26-2011, 02:55 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by jroc View Post
yea, a 3 foot breaker bar, plus a 3" extension attached to a 35mm axle nut socket. left all the suspension+ wheel on. definitely took some muscle though.
-.-


put the rotor and shit back on, pop out the center cap (if you still have it on), put the wheel on, finger tighten the lugs back on, e brake on, then muscle that bitch off using the car as leverage and a breaker bar. its what i did.

after pretending i was in the worlds strongest man competition, the nut loosened.
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 Old 01-07-2013, 03:07 PM   #23
 
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if you can get a replacement nut, you can score (carefully) the nut with a dremel and split it off, I have broken a breaker bar (craftsman, lifetime warranty is good) on FWD axle nuts, the dremel cutting wheel took care of it.. lightly tapping the axle/nut might work in conjunction with the PB and torch, I don't know this with Mazda's (haven't looked yet) but are the nuts cotter keyed? if so anti seize will go a long way, next time.
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