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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes.


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 Old 05-20-2016, 07:33 AM   #801
 
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I have the same policy as Phate, everything you buy in general needs to be modified to work properly. I also have never heard of this issue with the WhiteLine RSB holes, especially with oem endlinks.

It would help if you could measure the drill size that currently fits in the hole, even after you have enlarged it. The proper tool to enlarge a hole in spring steel is an adjustable reamer. 11 Piece Adjustable Hand Reamer Set

You should only need 1 or 2 of them. They work great in spring steel.
Contact WL for what hole size should be Contact Whiteline

If they made a mistake, you should get a new bar.

EDIT: 2:29pm, from WL, the bolt size is M10.


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 Old 05-20-2016, 08:32 AM   #802
 
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Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 View Post
@Tomas; could tell you a thing about WL RSB problems....

MS6 Whiteline RSB The Shit It is Not
In that thread, it appeared he had a WL bar that was made wrong with a big difference in arm lengths, with one too short and one too long, or much less likely a damaged bar. But hole dia was not an issue. Important posts were included, that told how all WL bars need to modified by trimming the ends to avoid interference with the LCA.

EDIT: I have focused over the years on the very many WL RSB installs and performance on the MS6, and have never seen one so bad that it could not be used. The one in the link was worthy of a "no shipping charge replacement" from the vendor, and likely MSP611's bar also, due to undersized holes, of M10 (10 mm dia) bolts don't fit.
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Last edited by KevinK2; 05-21-2016 at 10:26 AM. Reason: Added Reliability WL-RSB
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 Old 05-20-2016, 10:42 AM   #803
 
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While on the WL rear bar topic, I have had an uneasy feeling about conclusions drawn from Phate's WL rear bar test:

Originally Posted by phate View Post
This thread is for actual measurements of the various suspension components. .................... (First Post in Thread)

Anti Roll Bar, Rear

Motion Ratio - .33

Go to this post for information about the testing methods and how these values were calculated.

Stock Rear/Poly Bushing
Bar Lever Arm Length - 7.72"
Bar Vertical Rate (ItF) - 250 lb/in
Bar Vertical Rate (Average) - 265 lb/in
Bar Angular Rate (ItF) - 260 in-lb/1°
Bar Angular Rate (Average) - 276 in-lb/1°

WL Rear - Soft/Poly
Bar Lever Arm Length - 7.65"
Bar Vertical Rate (ItF) - 393 lb/in
Bar Vertical Rate (Average) - 399 lb/in
Bar Angular Rate (ItF) - 402 in-lb/1°
Bar Angular Rate (Average) - 407 in-lb/1°

WL Rear - Stiff/Poly
Bar Lever Arm Length - 6.71"
Bar Vertical Rate (ItF) - 477 lb/in
Bar Vertical Rate (Average) - 489 lb/in
Bar Angular Rate (ItF) - 375 in-lb/1°
Bar Angular Rate (Average) - 385 in-lb/1°


Of note are the WL bars measures compared to stock. They advertise it as 19% stiffer in the soft setting, and 40% stiffer in the stiff setting.
The bar actually offers 57% more roll resistance in the soft setting, and 91% more roll resistance in the stiff setting.
One is left with this interpretation that the WL bar offers tremendous increases in roll resistance, vs the oem bar. The lower percent increases WL offers are based on increases in stiffness based on the 4th power of the ratio of diameter ratio, with the stiff position considered to be 1 mm larger than their 24mm bar. I have evaluated the effect of the big offset in the middle of the bar, and the torsion is converted to a bending moments along the vertical lengths, and back to torsion along the top. Meaning the 4th power ratio is still valid for the oem geometry, and the vertical offset at the middle of the bar just increases the flexibility of the bar, as the vertical lengths add to the effective twisting length of the bar.

Your tests on the front bar indicateded that ratio would be about the same if the bushings were identical, but they were far from identical in the limited rear bar testing. Dur to a lack of an oem hard rubber bushing, a 1mm oversided poly bushing was used for the oem test, vs the tight fitting WL bushings on the WL bar. With high poisson's ratio for polyurethanes, a tight fit causes a semi hydrostatic stress state that gives extra stiffness to the bushing, vs a 1mm clearance fit that just has a very localized unidirectional compression of the bushing.

The bottom line is, imho, the "oem" test results are much lower than if true tight fitting oem bushings were used, and are not a valid data to draw conclusions from.



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 Old 05-20-2016, 04:08 PM   #804
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Right now, I have green bushings (harder than stock) in the toe links and orange bushings in the lca's. I'm think the ratio of stiffness between the bushings those two links is at play. Going from memory, the stock toe link bushings seemed very stiff compared to the stock LCA bushings.

The preload from the bushings renders the three lower arms nearly rigid at full droop, that's for sure.
Based on those new bump curves, the results suggest that the orange bushing set is not as stiff as the oem's, which Mazda claimed were stiffer than Mazda 6 bushings. If you consider "no toe-link bushings" to be super soft bushings, allowing max bump toe change, then the oem's would logically be the highest stiffness, allowing the least bump toe change.

EDIT: During the "no link" test, did you measure the overconstraint at the toe-link by fitting a bolt snug at one end, and using drill bits to measure hole size changes at the open end? With the method refined, it should indicate the interference in increments of .015" .


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Last edited by KevinK2; 05-21-2016 at 11:54 AM. Reason: added Q about measured overconstraint at toe-link
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 Old 05-21-2016, 10:30 AM   #805
 
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Default Rear Sway-Bar Option(s)

The WL rear bar is the only option now, as CS stopped production since they had a high rate of making out of spec bars ... for every one they sold, 2-3 were out of spec and were scrapped. If Phate ever decides to sub out his excellent, pro-racer quality rear bar kit (vs WL), that would be a very expensive option, I'd estimate at $800 +. The design is similar to a very expensive Tri-Point Engineering Front bar for the latest Rx7's, for competition use, that feature a 3 piece design Rx7-FD Tri-Point Fr ARB Design

Phate's Custom Design Rear Bar

Initial design, with 3D "printed" prototype for fit-up check

Assembled Steel Bar

Mounts to Frame


.
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 Old 05-24-2016, 04:58 PM   #806
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Autocrossed this past weekend. Back on sealed asphalt, and for the first time with the Hoosiers. I went with the same alignment I had used at the other venue (plain asphalt) and found it's a bit too much negative camber for the lower grip surface. I was at -3.8°/-4.5° front/rear, and will knock that down by ~0.5° for the next event at this same site. The car was a little pushier than it has been the last couple events, but that will likely get sorted out with the alignment and pressure changes.

I ended up coning ever single run, and didn't find that out until the end of the heat. Live timing wasn't updated, and this club doesn't have another method of finding out times...I digress. The course was...a lot of left. I didn't think it flowed well, but my driving left quite a bit out there. Johanna put in a couple fast clean runs and took the class, while my fast run with a cone landed me in 3rd out of 4. Videos:









Originally Posted by KevinK2 View Post
While on the WL rear bar topic, I have had an uneasy feeling about conclusions drawn from Phate's WL rear bar test:



One is left with this interpretation that the WL bar offers tremendous increases in roll resistance, vs the oem bar. The lower percent increases WL offers are based on increases in stiffness based on the 4th power of the ratio of diameter ratio, with the stiff position considered to be 1 mm larger than their 24mm bar. I have evaluated the effect of the big offset in the middle of the bar, and the torsion is converted to a bending moments along the vertical lengths, and back to torsion along the top. Meaning the 4th power ratio is still valid for the oem geometry, and the vertical offset at the middle of the bar just increases the flexibility of the bar, as the vertical lengths add to the effective twisting length of the bar.

Your tests on the front bar indicateded that ratio would be about the same if the bushings were identical, but they were far from identical in the limited rear bar testing. Dur to a lack of an oem hard rubber bushing, a 1mm oversided poly bushing was used for the oem test, vs the tight fitting WL bushings on the WL bar. With high poisson's ratio for polyurethanes, a tight fit causes a semi hydrostatic stress state that gives extra stiffness to the bushing, vs a 1mm clearance fit that just has a very localized unidirectional compression of the bushing.

The bottom line is, imho, the "oem" test results are much lower than if true tight fitting oem bushings were used, and are not a valid data to draw conclusions from.
Agreed, I'll add a note in the OP.

Originally Posted by KevinK2 View Post
Based on those new bump curves, the results suggest that the orange bushing set is not as stiff as the oem's, which Mazda claimed were stiffer than Mazda 6 bushings. If you consider "no toe-link bushings" to be super soft bushings, allowing max bump toe change, then the oem's would logically be the highest stiffness, allowing the least bump toe change.

EDIT: During the "no link" test, did you measure the overconstraint at the toe-link by fitting a bolt snug at one end, and using drill bits to measure hole size changes at the open end? With the method refined, it should indicate the interference in increments of .015" .


.
I didn't measure the over constraint. Maybe next time when things are apart.





Originally Posted by KevinK2 View Post
The WL rear bar is the only option now, as CS stopped production since they had a high rate of making out of spec bars ... for every one they sold, 2-3 were out of spec and were scrapped. If Phate ever decides to sub out his excellent, pro-racer quality rear bar kit (vs WL), that would be a very expensive option, I'd estimate at $800 +. The design is similar to a very expensive Tri-Point Engineering Front bar for the latest Rx7's, for competition use, that feature a 3 piece design Rx7-FD Tri-Point Fr ARB Design

Initial design, with 3D "printed" prototype for fit-up check:
Initial design, with 3D "printed" prototype for fit-up check

Assembled Steel Bar
Assembled Steel Bar

Mounts to Frame:
Mounts to Frame


.
That's a good estimate. If anyone is serious about getting one, they can PM me.
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 Old 05-24-2016, 06:09 PM   #807
 
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Basically Johanna by a tenth, assuming a cone nudge vs a crunch. There may be a way to optimize a run by treating it like in Formula-1, and dividing the course in 3 sectors, and checking the splits. Like the 5 sequential high speed lefts out of the box, with a final closing radius = sector 1. Then take the best split methods for a best method for the team. Anyways both looked fast.

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 Old 05-25-2016, 10:13 AM   #808
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Originally Posted by KevinK2 View Post
Basically Johanna by a tenth, assuming a cone nudge vs a crunch. There may be a way to optimize a run by treating it like in Formula-1, and dividing the course in 3 sectors, and checking the splits. Like the 5 sequential high speed lefts out of the box, with a final closing radius = sector 1. Then take the best split methods for a best method for the team. Anyways both looked fast.

.
I've done that with some of the video we've taken in the past. Usually when we're really close in times, but feeling like we did sections differently from each other. Definitely helpful.
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 Old 05-25-2016, 01:09 PM   #809
 
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In formula1, The Spa track in Belgium is one of my fav's with the famous "Eau Rouge" set of 3 corners that make a high speed dip, usually taken flat out with a blind exit. That corner set starts at 28 secs.
Course record run at the time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdIvrOgBuj8

This is an "overlap" video from the same camera angle, showing F1 cars vs a track day event, to give concept of the speed differential: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5H4BaDEADQI
Alignment of the videos is a bit off, but not the speed difference.

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 Old 06-02-2016, 05:54 PM   #810
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We decided to see how we stacked up to some serious competition at a national level this past week. We decided to do two events back to back in Lincoln, Ne. First was the ProSolo - it's a drag race style autocross where two courses are mirrored and you start from a tree. Sounded awesome, was our first time doing this sort of event. Second was the nationals championship tour, which is just your typical autocross with ~300 drivers. Things didn't go exactly as planned...

We loaded up Wednesday night in order to leave early Thursday morning. Check in was in the afternoon and practice starts were available after the car was teched and we were checked in. We got there just in time for monsoon rains, got the car teched and we got checked in. Skies started to clear around 5pm so we threw on the Hankooks and headed over to get some practice starts in. Johanna hadn't ever launched from a tree, so she was riding along to get a feel for the timing. Roll up for our first one, light up the beams, ambers come down and revs go up. Last amber hits and I'm on the limiter and releasing the clutch. Front tires start to spin like crazy and BOOM, transfer case goes nuclear. Looks like it's going to be a long night, but we brought a spare.



We happened to know some folks from IL that moved just north of Lincoln, and they were on site for the pro. They offered to haul the car up to their place so we could swap cases in the dry in time to compete in the morning. 5 hours later we have a mobile car and we drive back to Lincoln for a few short hours of sleep.

Back at it in the morning, Johanna is driving first heat. No practice launches, so she's winging it. In grid waiting for her group to run:



Her grid section goes up and then it's her turn to run. She does everything right, lines up at the beams, ambers come down and she launches the car pretty hard. Finishes the run and we hear a couple light clicks while she's turning, but the car seems fine. Swaps to the right side course and same deal, but when she launches the car the front tires spin pretty badly. Probably not good. She comes back into the left lane and we hear some nasty crunches. I look under and there's oil dripping so I have her pull out of the lane and we head back to check things out. We weren't sure if the oil was residual from the transfer case the night before or what. We get the car up on stands, don't see anything immediate with the transfer case, check the axle...don't know what it is, so we start the car up and drive the car while it's on stands. Click click click....poke around some more and see a crack at the top of the transfer case. Fuck.

At this point we're running on our second night of <4 hours of sleep, so we decide to slow down a bit and collect ourselves. Tomorrow (saturday) is free since we're out of the pro and already checked in for the tour. We grab some lunch and I take a look on car-part.com and see a CX7 transfer case is available 10 minutes from the hotel. Can't get any luckier than that. I know I'll need a seal from Mazda to make this work, so we get one overnighted from Mazda Motorsports. We go back to paddock and drop the transfer case in an hour-twenty and the rest of the night is free.



Saturday morning was the third set of runs for the pro and we decide to ask if we can run Johanna's MS3 in place of the 6. Since the car is not at all prepped, we knew no one competing would protest and the administration folks allowed us to change cars (I think probably because they felt sorry for us at this point, haha). So we ran her car just for some fun and it was just that, pretty fun. I like the prosolo style of competition, I'll probably try it again at some point.

During those runs, the seal is delivered and we're back in business. Pick it up and start reassembling. An hour-thirty later the car is 100% back together. That's a total of <3 hours to swap a transfer case...that might be a record 10 minutes later we're out on the practice course and the car feels as good as ever. Looks like we're ready for some autocross tomorrow!



For the autocross, we decided not to launch the car at all and just live with it. Overall, I was driving the car pretty conservatively and was .1s out of the trophies the first day. We've never had the car on concrete with Hoosiers, so we struggled a little bit with the extra grip that we had available. Oh well, car stayed together. Second day was similar, and I drove the car a little harder but the past few days were still weighing pretty heavily on me and I feel like I didn't drive as effectively as I should have been. I didn't move up in the class at all, and ended up 4th out of 7 drivers. Johanna coned away her fast runs on the second day, so ended up 6th in the class.

Not a great weekend, that's for sure. We met a lot of really great people over the weekend and got a feel for the competition, at the very least. Some pictures from Lincoln (during the nice weather).





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Your post reads like a book that i could not put down and i read without the pics on email. Sounds so fun as frustrating as that all must have been.
amazing.
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 Old 06-02-2016, 07:37 PM   #812
 
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Congrats on a couple of heroic mechanical efforts, and related quick thinking. Only .1 sec out of trophies sounds very good, all things considered.

What was the difference from your typical start procedure for the local autox's, vs the tree, beyond the critical reaction time?


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 Old 06-06-2016, 11:53 AM   #813
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Fuckin-a I might have to start carrying a spare t-case in the trunk now due to t-case failure phobia.
You gonna do a post mortum on the 2 cases and see if the damages are the same or similar?
I think you have now broken 3 t-cases correct? lol
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 Old 06-06-2016, 12:00 PM   #814
 
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Did any of these have bearing caps? If so I guess they just like gernading themselves.

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 Old 06-07-2016, 08:52 AM   #815
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Originally Posted by KevinK2 View Post
Congrats on a couple of heroic mechanical efforts, and related quick thinking. Only .1 sec out of trophies sounds very good, all things considered.

What was the difference from your typical start procedure for the local autox's, vs the tree, beyond the critical reaction time?


.
Same procedure, really. On the limiter, slip the clutch for a split second then release. Data logs show funny things with the launch control logic, so I'm checking into that.

Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Fuckin-a I might have to start carrying a spare t-case in the trunk now due to t-case failure phobia.
You gonna do a post mortum on the 2 cases and see if the damages are the same or similar?
I think you have now broken 3 t-cases correct? lol
Just looking at the cases, the resulting damages from the 3 cases are nearly identical. They blow out the top and the driver's side. I didn't keep either of the 2 cases from nats, just too much going on and too much to haul back.

Originally Posted by dagrimey1 View Post
Did any of these have bearing caps? If so I guess they just like gernading themselves.
Nope.
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 Old 06-07-2016, 11:00 AM   #816
 
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Maybe a cheaper investment?

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 Old 06-07-2016, 11:13 AM   #817

 
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IIRC, caps illegal in ESP

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 Old 06-07-2016, 11:16 AM   #818
 
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Pretty sure they will not dismantle his PTO, nor remove it from the car.

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 Old 06-13-2016, 07:34 AM   #819
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But we'll report him cuz we are haters like that.
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 Old 06-13-2016, 10:20 AM   #820
 
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Originally Posted by KevinK2
What was the difference from your typical start procedure for the local autox's, vs the tree, beyond the critical reaction time?
Originally Posted by phate View Post
Same procedure, really. On the limiter, slip the clutch for a split second then release. Data logs show funny things with the launch control logic, so I'm checking into that ......
Any update on this? I recall there was at least 1 other driveline failure at the line, some time ago. But looking at your last 4 local auto-x videos, there seemed to be a good bit of clutch slip at the start, followed by a close 1st corner where power was dropped. Didn't appear to "shock" the driveline.

Phate's 1st start at tree:
Originally Posted by phate
.. Front tires start to spin like crazy and BOOM, transfer case goes nuclear"
Something similar on the 2nd failure, during Johanna's 2nd run, except she completed the run with a cracked T-Case housing. There was a ticking noise when turning, after the 1st run, which she completed.

Considering your run and Johanna's 2nd run with front wheels initially spinning, I think the only way to get the front tires spinning at the start line with the driveline intact, is either the control system thinks there is an exception, like the e-brake on, or the voltage to the coupling has been lost for other reasons.

Another remote possibility is slippage at the engaged coupling. But this would create instant high heat and damage to the discs. "TEO the Greek" was able to drag race his MS3 with ~700hp using this driveline with no disc slipping, but he ran full battery voltage to the clutch magnet, vs some % duty cycle.

If you transition from spinning front wheels to awd in an instant, the shock to the T-case would be huge, and could be the cause of your 2 recent failures.

Sounds like the last T-case is still working well.


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 Old 06-14-2016, 11:06 AM   #821
 
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Originally Posted by dagrimey1 View Post
Pretty sure they will not dismantle his PTO, nor remove it from the car.

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 Old 06-19-2016, 08:03 PM   #822
 
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Originally Posted by xfeejayx View Post
IIRC, caps illegal in ESP

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@phate; @xfeejayx;

Need to mobilize on that letter to the SCCA board about tcase reinforcement.

hopefully this week I'll look into what's required and make a template.
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 Old 06-19-2016, 08:13 PM   #823
 
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Originally Posted by KevinK2 View Post
... "TEO the Greek" was able to drag race his MS3 with ~700hp using this driveline with no disc slipping, but he ran full battery voltage to the clutch magnet, vs some % duty cycle.

If you transition from spinning front wheels to awd in an instant, the shock to the T-case would be huge, and could be the cause of your 2 recent failures.


.
Having just spent some time looking at tcases, I wonder if the shock of power transitioning after the front wheel slips isn't what caused the fracture.

It would nice to use a microcontroller to tie the rear diff duty cycle up by administering battery voltage(a la TEO) just for first gear or while VSS is under 10mph or something. just a thought.
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 Old 06-20-2016, 04:41 AM   #824

 
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Don't forget about his monster clutch. Not the primary cause, but certainly can transmit more torque faster.

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 Old 06-20-2016, 07:09 AM   #825
 
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Originally Posted by zenit View Post
Having just spent some time looking at tcases, I wonder if the shock of power transitioning after the front wheel slips isn't what caused the fracture.

It would nice to use a microcontroller to tie the rear diff duty cycle up by administering battery voltage(a la TEO) just for first gear or while VSS is under 10mph or something. just a thought.
Sounds like a good idea. It would be informative to monitor the duty cycle (or average voltage) during a launch with front wheel spin, to see if there is a delay in getting to a high value. EDIT: Teo also had a fabricated steel brace on his T-case, and an internal stiff plate, that may also have helped it survive.

Based on Phate's comments, I had thought spinning the front tires was not typical for his local autox starts, and he was more aggressive with the "tree" starts at the National race, resulting in 2 failed T-cases in one weekend.

EDIT: Both of the last T-case issues for Phate and Teo were cracked cases at the bevel-gear end of the intermediate shaft. Teo noted the inside parts were not harmed, and Johanna completed a lap with the cracked case. There may be a way to add a brace to prevent this common failure of the case at that location, but it would be very hard to do. Hard launches are T-case destroyers.


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 Old 06-20-2016, 10:24 AM   #826
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The brace that the gyro destroyer produced for his AWD MS3 did not help preventing another t-case blow out. It looks as if the aluminum casing just isn't strong enough. There is no easy way of fixing that although sending a broken t-case, or pictures, to a joint like Sheptrans transmission might reveal if they can come up with a fix. It is my understanding that Sheptrans only rebuilds stuff and not re-design it so they might not be able to help- but may be they know who can.
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 Old 06-20-2016, 12:20 PM   #827
 
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Damn you transfer case!

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 Old 09-26-2016, 08:17 AM   #828
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Shortly before my last post, I accepted a job offer near Detroit, MI. I have since moved and have been spending most of my time settling into the new house and learning the new job. That hasn't left much time for autocross and I haven't been doing much with the 6 recently. I did an autocross up here about a month ago and wasn't real happy with the course flow, how the car was running, and my driving.

Got back out yesterday after minor maintenance and the car felt great. Good course design that had good flow and a couple high risk/high reward sections. Took the class, ended up 4th overall on raw, and 6th overall on pax out of 132 drivers.


Found out after the event that I corded a right rear tire during a spin on my first run, so not too shabby. That's the first Hoosier I've worn out.
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 Old 09-26-2016, 08:08 PM   #829
 
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hey phate - update on the condition of the Russian bushings?? Interested to hear. Overall, how did things feel compared to the rubber ones? tighter? did you use grease?
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 Old 09-27-2016, 03:59 AM   #830
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All is well with the bushings. I don't notice them at all, really - meaning they didn't increase road noise or vibes. They seem to be holding up fine.

I used a very light coat of grease on the ones without a steel shell. It helped them slip in without tearing the flanges. Steel shells don't need anything except a clean, rust free receiver. I didn't add any grease to the floating bush types, but I suspect they'll dry out after a while.

I just picked up a daily, so the 6 will be coming apart soon and I'll work through the suspension at some point.

Engine and trans need refreshed, and a couple new items over the winter.
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 Old 10-27-2016, 06:30 PM   #831
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The winter projects begin. I pulled the drivetrain a couple weeks ago before I started traveling for work. Dropped it off at the machine shop and am waiting to hear back about what work/parts it needs. This will be a 100% stock rebuild with just bearing clearances and ring end gaps opened up.

Transmission will get opened up. If it looks like it will be economical to rebuild what's already there, I'll do that. Otherwise, I'll get a low mile trans from a junk yard. Anything will be better than this thing with 193k miles on it.






I have a few things cooking in my mind for winter projects:
  • I've sold the Enkeis and am looking to go to an 18x10.5" wheel with a 285/30 Hoosier A7 next season
  • water injection system
  • Lighter brakes
  • Solid non-metallic subframe bushings (home made)
  • Solid non-metallic UCA bushings (home made)
  • Tow Rig
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 Old 10-27-2016, 06:55 PM   #832
 
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Delrin for the bushings? How much would it be if I asked you to make me a set of subframe ones? And why the different UCA bushings? Russian ones wore out?
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 Old 10-27-2016, 07:08 PM   #833
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
  • I've sold the Enkeis and am looking to go to an 18x10.5" wheel with a 285/30 Hoosier A7 next season
  • water injection system
  • Lighter brakes
  • Solid non-metallic subframe bushings (home made)
  • Solid non-metallic UCA bushings (home made)
  • Tow Rig
That's funny. I have each of these things sitting on my workbench for racecar.

except the tow rig and wheels, of course.
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 Old 10-27-2016, 07:38 PM   #834
 
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@zenit; @phate; I'm so glad I don't live closer to you guys. I'd be spending so much more on my 6.....
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 Old 10-27-2016, 07:57 PM   #835
 
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Originally Posted by nindoja View Post
@zenit; @phate; I'm so glad I don't live closer to you guys. I'd be spending so much more on my 6.....
Don't forget @xfeejayx; and @Micha;
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 Old 10-28-2016, 10:24 AM   #836
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Originally Posted by nignogswog View Post
Delrin for the bushings? How much would it be if I asked you to make me a set of subframe ones? And why the different UCA bushings? Russian ones wore out?
UCA bushings are coaxial/single axis, so no need for compliance in them. I have Whiteline bushings up there... The only Whiteline bushings to survive, but more stiff is more better up there.
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 Old 10-28-2016, 11:05 AM   #837

 
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Originally Posted by nindoja View Post
@zenit; @phate; I'm so sad I don't live closer to you guys. I'd be making my 6 faster.....
fixed
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 Old 11-13-2016, 02:55 PM   #838
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Little wider





18x10.5 +30. Could probably go with a +35 and still clear the spindle. Rears might be an issue, but I didn't test fit them before I pulled the knuckles.





Front seats are out. Johanna just finished extending the Kirkey seat cover to be compliant with the rules, so it'll go in soon. Need to order passenger side hardware, still.







Extended studs in new hubs with new bearings.







Transmission tear down, abbreviated version.



2nd gear pads are done for, no wonder it was hard to shift:







2nd gear dogs aren't in too great of shape, explains why it was popping out of 2nd:



All of the dog gears show some wear, but not as severe as second. That's no wonder since autocross is mostly 2nd gear. If I can get a very low mile used trans, I'll probably go that route. Rebuilding this trans is approaching a cost point that doesn't make it worthwhile, and I haven't finished tallying everything.

Diff is out for investigation
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 Old 11-13-2016, 03:02 PM   #839
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Little wider

18x10.5 +30. Could probably go with a +35 and still clear the spindle. Rears might be an issue, but I didn't test fit them before I pulled the knuckles.

Front seats are out. Johanna just finished extending the Kirkey seat cover to be compliant with the rules, so it'll go in soon. Need to order passenger side hardware, still.

Extended studs in new hubs with new bearings.

Transmission tear down, abbreviated version.

2nd gear pads are done for, no wonder it was hard to shift:

2nd gear dogs aren't in too great of shape, explains why it was popping out of 2nd:

All of the dog gears show some wear, but not as severe as second. That's no wonder since autocross is mostly 2nd gear. If I can get a very low mile used trans, I'll probably go that route. Rebuilding this trans is approaching a cost point that doesn't make it worthwhile, and I haven't finished tallying everything.

Diff is out for investigation
You guys have been busy and it looks like more to come.

Did you replace the shift for with OE or the upgraded aftermarket fork?

As an aside, I've been meaning to touch base with you, will ping in the next few days.
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 Old 11-13-2016, 03:05 PM   #840
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Originally Posted by ibcrusn View Post
You guys have been busy and it looks like more to come.

Did you replace the shift for with OE or the upgraded aftermarket fork?

As an aside, I've been meaning to touch base with you, will ping in the next few days.
Haven't replaced anything, yet. This was just tear down for assessment.
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