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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes.


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 Old 04-19-2018, 11:36 AM   #1041
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Too small!




It looks like, if you extrapolate the points out for angle of attack, the lift will continue to decrease and and the coefficient of drag levels off a bit. So, max height (10") at an angle of or very near vertical will give the most dramatic change in rear lift.
How do you arrive at 10" being the optimal height by extrapolation?
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 Old 04-19-2018, 12:57 PM   #1042
 
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10" is optimal given it is the maximum allowed...
and Bigger = Better

Mic drop.
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 Old 04-19-2018, 07:06 PM   #1043
 
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Wow.. This thread............. <3 _ <3
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 Old 04-23-2018, 11:12 AM   #1044
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
How do you arrive at 10" being the optimal height by extrapolation?
The first chart (reposted below from an earlier post) shows coefficient of lift vs h/l. Where h is the vertical height of the spoiler and l is the wheelbase length, going all the way out to a h/l of 0.12...and the coefficient of lift continues to go negative with the bigger ratios.

The MS6 wheelbase is 111.4", so a 10" vertical spoiler would yield a ratio of 0.090. Laying it back 30° from vertical would yield a ratio of 0.072.

The second chart shows how the larger ratios nearing 0.100 producing an even more significant reduction in lift at low yaw angle...






Seems to me that bigger would be better, but I'm limited to 10" by the class rules. There's some really great info in a few threads on GRM by Steve Stafford, who is an aero engineer.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...ormance-wings/

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...force-sorcery/

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...-aerodynamics/

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...-spoiler-tips/

This podcast is worth a listen, as well. He talks specifically about the class spoilers I'm looking to build adding 100-200 lb downforce at 45mph. [Another point he makes in the podcast is that autocross cars should go for max downforce, regardless of drag increase.]




If you take a look at that third article, he describes a qualitative (somewhat quantitave, but no actual measurements) method of testing aero effects using paint dots on surfaces and looking at how they streak during a drive. Similar to the string or yarn method, but easier since you don't have to record the string movement and analyze video. I just got some powdered paint he recommends so I'm going to do the testing after I have a prototype or 2 for some back to back testing.
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 Old 04-23-2018, 03:13 PM   #1045
 
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Speaking of a 10 inch spoiler...
I also got a ricer flyby from him with that sweet popcorn crackles or whatever that garbage is

Speaking of garbage, my phone takes garbage pictures... It's an rx8 with what looks like sheet metal riveted on to the rear....
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 Old 04-23-2018, 03:21 PM   #1046
 
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That's not near big enough.
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 Old 04-23-2018, 05:53 PM   #1047
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Back at it tonight after a weekend at the dragon. It was really nice to get some drive time in with the new setup. It's a totally different feel than last year, it's like the world got smoother. I'm reserving judgment until I get the car to an autocross on the hoosiers.


Anyway, spoiler things. I started over after putting a nasty fold in my first piece of foam board. Instead of praying that i didn't do it again, i made vertical folds every 1" on this piece to make it a little easier to contour around the trunk lid profile. It's still very stiff with just some duct tape holding it at the bottom.

This will be my vertical spoiler mock up piece. It's not as wide as the car, so I picked up a 4x8' piece of foam board to extend it outboard as far as possible without going beyond the top view profile of the body. I also picked up a 4x8' sheet of lexan for when I'm ready to transfer foam cutouts to real lexan that I will test with.

Spoiler supports are on their way. I contemplated making my own, but it doesn't make sense cost wise considering how long they'll take me to make.

Edit: These are going to get cut down to 10", I'm getting the trunk profile in these pics before cutting to final height.
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 Old 04-25-2018, 04:45 AM   #1048
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This is very close to actual height and max width. I'll trim it down for testing if width affects the performance. It's ready to transfer to lexan.

I started on the laid back version after this, but it's definitely not as easy to mock up. I'll work on it more this week and next.






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 Old 04-27-2018, 05:34 AM   #1049
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I worked more on the angled spoiler last night. Starting with a single piece and trying to trim it to conform was really difficult, so I changed my strategy for this one. I cut a bunch of short, narrow pieces of foam board and taped them in place at the desired angle.




I then pulled that off and transferred it to a larger single piece. That got me about 90% to where I needed it to be. I stuck the new turnbuckles on with double stick tape to mock them up. This piece still needs trimmed down to the 10", as it sits in this pic it is about 15" tall.




I'll resume this project next week.
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 Old 04-27-2018, 06:12 AM   #1050
 
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I don't think this will look half as bad as I had imagined a ten inch spoiler would look.
Good work so far
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 Old 04-30-2018, 01:56 AM   #1051
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do those support rods have hem joints at the ends? If yes, brand and place of purchase please?
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 Old 04-30-2018, 04:16 AM   #1052
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
do those support rods have hem joints at the ends? If yes, brand and place of purchase please?
Sure do. Try this link.

If that doesn't work, check out Wehrs machine, part numbers including WM57. The ones with heims come in pairs.
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 Old 04-30-2018, 06:26 PM   #1053
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Perfect dude. Price is win.
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 Old 05-03-2018, 07:21 AM   #1054
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I haven't spent much time on the spoiler this week. I've been taking care of a few small things and reorganizing the trailer a bit.

I wanted to try to at least get the vertical fence rough cut from Lexan last night. Turns out to be really easy to work with.

Transferred the pattern to the big sheet:



Cut a big rectangle:



This thing worked like a champ:



And then we have something that looks roughly like a spoiler:





I'll do more work next week. Headed to Indy this weekend for a Sunday autocross.
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 Old 05-07-2018, 10:05 AM   #1055
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The car flat out rips, and it's never been easier to drive. I took first on overall pax and Johanna took 2nd out of about 100 drivers yesterday.

The updated dampers smooth out the world and the car is tough to upset with bumps or quick inputs. The difference from last year is really incredible. It's such a soft ride on course at full tilt, but all of the response is still there and the grip is absolutely immense.

The LSD is doing work, or more likely a combination of the changes over winter are preventing the inside front from spinning. I gave it hell at every opportunity and save for a bit of understeer in a couple places it just explodes out of corners. I just told myself to get the car aimed early and plant my right foot as soon as I could muster the courage. I still need work.


For my last run, I decided to try out launch control. It works, and it definitely covered up (time wise) the couple screw ups I had on course. My previous run was much cleaner driving, but .1s slower. Can't complain, but there's more out there.




Test and tune in 2 weeks, and a couple things to get finished before then - mostly the spoiler and to start thinking about a front air dam and splitter.

At the test and tune, I want to get data on tire temp gradients to dial in the alignment just a bit more. I also want to have the spoilers available for testing.





Re: Launch Control. I figured this out a few weeks ago, but don't think I ever posted about it because I wanted to make sure it actually worked again.

With the Cobb AP, your launch control and flat foot settings are part of the tune file. If you could send someone your tune file and they flash their car with it, it would also flash the LC/FFS settings.

With VersaTuner, the launch control/FFS/DTC's are a part of global settings, and they're only local to the device you set them on. So, I had flashed from my tablet to update a couple minor things before 2016 spring Nats not knowing this - as opposed to my laptop that I use for more intense tuning. Unbeknownst to me at the time, it flashed the 'local device' global settings...which turned off LC and FFS entirely because they hadn't ever been set on my tablet. 6700 rpm limits and 2 transfer cases later...you get the picture.

So, moral of that story - LC is back on and no more excuses. The car is back to being the whole package.
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 Old 05-08-2018, 02:07 PM   #1056
 
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That. Was. Awesome to watch.

I didn't see any body roll. Wish my car handled like that. Nice work taking it as far as you have!
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 Old 05-10-2018, 06:33 AM   #1057
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Well you finnaly beat Johanna.
What you do to the dampers? Lower both comp. and reb.?
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 Old 05-14-2018, 04:48 AM   #1058
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I've been really hesitant to start mounting the spoiler(s) onto the trunk lid because you know...that requires drilling lots of holes in it. So, I picked up a regular Mazda6 trunk lid that originally didn't have a spoiler. The final version will be transferred to my original trunk, because technically I can't swap them (yeah, I know...).

I started out swapping key cylinders, but that was pointless because the entire striker assembly needs swapped out. The Mazda6 has a shorter striker assembly, so it isn't long enough to capture the striker plate on the bottom. There's pretty much no chance of me swapping cylinder and striker plate at a TnT, so I'm going to tape the Mazda6 lid shut with some gorilla tape for testing purposes. Should be plenty strong for some autocross.


New old trunk lid. Now I can really stop caring and start drilling.




But first, I wanted to check out some edge seals I purchased. This is the one I decided to go with. It's an aluminum reinforced EPDE push on rubber seal.




That helps me out so I don't have to get the lexan perfectly contoured to the trunk lid. I trimmed the lexan probably 5 times before I was really happy with it. This edge seal grabs on hard, which is pretty obvious when you struggle to push it onto the edge. But, it's on -




I guess I forgot to take pictures mid drilling and installing riv nuts. I used M8 hardware for the angled brackets and M6 hardware for the turnbuckles. First stab at it:




I was really slacking on the pictures. I trimmed the lexan to be 9.75" off the deck lid. The rules state it can't overhang original bodywork when viewed from above - so I took a plumb bob and marked and trimmed the left and right edges to be barely within those confines.










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 Old 05-14-2018, 05:02 AM   #1059
 
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It doesn't look as ridiculous as you'd think a 10" spoiler would look.
I think the lexan being clear aides in that. Doing good work here....
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 Old 05-15-2018, 06:03 AM   #1060
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Non-spoiler things.

Alignment! The car was a little loose at high speed, and the alignment is partially to blame. The front tires wore pretty evenly, and could use a touch more negative camber. The rears, though, barely touched the insides:



So I'm adding -0.4° to the rear and -0.2° to the front.





To follow up on the subframe bushings - they didn't move!

Front:


Rear:






Non-performance related - I'm going to replace the hazy headlight covers. $50 on Amazon for these and they look like they're identical to OE (possibly from the original supplier to Mazda, idk).






Popping couplers - I had trouble at the dragon and again last weekend popping the throttle body coupler off. Turns out the crappy reducer coupler I got is a little short for the throttle body. Twofold fix for this - Chris from Speed Solutions sent me a throttle body with a bead welded onto it, and I'm getting a longer coupler with new clamps.







Splitter! I can't just go increasing rear stick without trying to improve front stick. Actually, the spoiler will likely result in a slight increase in front end lift, so this is to balance the aero load a bit. I started with a sheet of 1/2" birch ply:

Mark your corners in case you kick it out of place:



The rules state it can't protrude beyond the perimeter of the original bodywork, so I'm putting the plumb bob to use again. Instead of holding it and trying to mark it separately, I got some paint and let the plumb bob do the work:



Make a bunch of dots:



Cut with a jigsaw:




I'll pick this back up when I have the car ready to go for the TnT this weekend.
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 Old 05-15-2018, 11:09 AM   #1061
 
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are you going to do a separate splitter or do an entire undertray combo pan/splitter? I would think you could pick up some efficiencies with doing a single piece undertray and spoiler combo. Ditch the crappy barely functional plastic one and create a singular smooth surface. Hell you could even extend it back a tad further to seal up the engine bay area and contour it to create channelled air underneath.
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 Old 05-15-2018, 11:21 AM   #1062
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
are you going to do a separate splitter or do an entire undertray combo pan/splitter? I would think you could pick up some efficiencies with doing a single piece undertray and spoiler combo. Ditch the crappy barely functional plastic one and create a singular smooth surface. Hell you could even extend it back a tad further to seal up the engine bay area and contour it to create channelled air underneath.
Here's the ruling:

A spoiler/splitter may be added to the front of the car below the bumper. It may not extend rearward beyond the front most part of the front wheel well openings, and may not block normal grille or other openings, or obstruct lights. Splitters may not protrude beyond the bumper. Openings may not be used for the purpose of ducting air to the radiator or oil cooler, but they may allow air to flow through a permitted oil cooler provided no ducting is used. The spoiler may not function as a wing. This allows a vertical air dam/spoiler above a horizontal splitter, but splitter fences or longitudinal vertical members that serve to trap air on top of the splitter by preventing it from flowing around the sides of the car are not allowed.


There's also no specific mention of removing stock undertrays until Street Modified. That's faster than my current class, and where I don't want to end up. Since it's not specifically allowed, I'm keeping the stock undertray...So, with that in mind and the limitation of not extending rearward beyond the wheel well opening, I'm doing a separate dam/splitter.


Going through the literature, I'm looking for a maximum extension downward of 100mm (I'm using the stock undertray as the upper plane to measure from), or a minimum height off the ground of about 50mm. I think the 50mm ground clearance will be the limiting factor, but I haven't gotten to that point, yet. I also don't want trailer loading/unloading to become a chore, so I'm looking at different methods of 'quick' attachment that are still sturdy, and also have some small height adjustment.
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 Old 05-15-2018, 11:55 AM   #1063
 
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Time a Futura trailer.

video
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 Old 05-15-2018, 12:03 PM   #1064
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Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Time a Futura trailer.

video
Those things are definitely awesome, but don't think I'd give up the enclosed trailer for one.
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 Old 05-15-2018, 12:41 PM   #1065
 
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They certainly know how to appeal to our crowd...
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 Old 05-16-2018, 05:28 AM   #1066
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Well you finnaly beat Johanna.
What you do to the dampers? Lower both comp. and reb.?
Lots more low speed, lots less high speed.
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 Old 05-16-2018, 05:39 AM   #1067

 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Well you finnaly beat Johanna.
What you do to the dampers? Lower both comp. and reb.?
He typically beats me by 0.2-0.8 seconds . I trophied at Nationals in the Ladies class, but if the car had held together for him and I had run in his class, he likely would have beat me, based on day 1 times. Every year, I set out to make it the year where this trend reverses...

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 Old 05-16-2018, 09:59 AM   #1068
 
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Hey this forum still exists! Glad to see you're doing so well with the car Clint! I'm sure you're aware but the cool thing about the 315 vs the 335 hoosiers is that they're the same height. Curious to see what you come up with for the tcase reinforcement.

Also, I'm not sure how heavy that wood is but I'm using .25" HDPE for my splitter on the evo. 4x8' sheet bought at menards. All said and done should weigh around 20-25lbs (for me) including hardware, and it's very abrasion resistant. If you want to get really light you can use alumalite but it's not the cheapest stuff.
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 Old 05-16-2018, 10:28 AM   #1069
 
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Cut out foam board, add hole reinforcements, wrap in carbon fiber, vacuum bag it, set it out in the sun to cure.
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 Old 05-16-2018, 12:09 PM   #1070
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Originally Posted by Fstrnyou View Post
Cut out foam board, add hole reinforcements, wrap in carbon fiber, vacuum bag it, set it out in the sun to cure.
You buying?

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 Old 05-18-2018, 05:17 AM   #1071
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Here's the ruling:

I also don't want trailer loading/unloading to become a chore, so I'm looking at different methods of 'quick' attachment that are still sturdy, and also have some small height adjustment.
Pfft with enough race ramps there is no such thing as too low. My abarth sits on the ground when in downforce mode and I had no issues getting it on a non-low boy...now granted I needed like 12 feet of load space behind the trailer to lay out the long ass ramps... I have a set in my basement if you want to try them out.
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 Old 05-18-2018, 05:38 AM   #1072
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
Pfft with enough race ramps there is no such thing as too low. My abarth sits on the ground when in downforce mode and I had no issues getting it on a non-low boy...now granted I needed like 12 feet of load space behind the trailer to lay out the long ass ramps... I have a set in my basement if you want to try them out.
I think I'll just need to get the nose up high enough that it doesn't scrape the trailer ramp. Shouldn't need a whole lot even if the splitter is 2" off the ground. At the TNT this weekend, I'm going to test what minimum height the front end gets to under cornering/braking. I'll continue the splitter project next week if this weekend goes well.

I'm all loaded up, headed down after work.
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 Old 05-18-2018, 08:29 AM   #1073
 
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You could be the first to develop a front suspension hydraulic lift system on a speed 6. That would be boss!
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 Old 05-21-2018, 05:30 AM   #1074
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The spoiler stays. We had the car out for the test and tune both Saturday and Sunday. Ran tons of runs with the stock spoiler to the point we were consistent and not getting any faster (on 285/30 Bridgestone RE71R's). Swapped trunk lids and within a couple runs went 0.4s faster on a 40s course.

It just makes the car a hair more stable at high speeds. I really noticed it in the giant slalom where I would normally have the back end step out, it just didn't step out quite as much and was faster to catch traction once it did start to slide a touch.

We threw the Hoosiers back on and it's even more noticeable. We're carrying more speed with them to start with, and aero forces increase at the square of velocity.


Tried out my new IR camera I stuck it on pointing at the left front tire. This is Johanna driving, me riding shotgun and narrating, haha. On the first 2 runs watching the heat gradient, I knew that they weren't being pushed very hard. You can literally see the tire utilization in corners using this thing - and when you do utilize them they light up across the whole tire and the grip they generate is really incredible. It's just a matter of putting them there every single corner.





We ended yesterday with the car running out of fuel, so I'm interested to see how low it actually is now running dual pumps. I'll fill it up this week before loading it up for Lincoln.
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 Old 05-21-2018, 05:51 AM   #1075
 
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Nice, I need a race wife. If I take off from a stop light too fast in my 150 hp ltd the wife says she's gonna throw up.. LOL
Awesome the spoiler is gonna work out.
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 Old 05-24-2018, 04:42 AM   #1076
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I transferred the spoiler to the original trunk lid. I remade the brackets from 304 stainless, and used all stainless hardware this time around.
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 Old 06-04-2018, 04:48 AM   #1077
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Haven't updated in a while. I've been having issues with the car.

Drove to Lincoln, NE...a 14 hour drive, for the champ tour. Hit the test course and the car ran like garbage. Nasty misfires in boost, rough idle, garbage. Did lots of troubleshooting out there with boost leaks, fuel pumps, and couldn't sort it out. So, I loaded it back on the trailer before the event even started.

After a week of troubleshooting, I narrowed it down to leaking injector(s). I replaced them yesterday and everything seems better. I drove it for a while last night without issue. It needs some minor tune work with the new injectors, but I'll be able to do that this week.

This coming weekend is the champ tour in NY, the car should be ready to go for it.
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 Old 06-12-2018, 05:30 AM   #1078
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New York was mostly a success. The car ran GREAT for the TnT Friday and we figured out starting pressures and got an idea for hot pressures - Seneca Army Depot is asphalt, so this was our first outing on a surface like this with the new setup.

Day 1 - We nailed starting pressures and the car felt great even with cold tires. It was mid 70's with light cloud cover - absolutely beautiful. I mashed a few cones during the first run because the car had a lot more grip than I expected. I cleaned that up for my second run, running .1s slower scratch time but no penalties. For my 3rd run, I knew I was sitting shoulder to shoulder with others in the class so I wanted to push harder and really focus on staying clean. I did exactly that and landed a run .778s faster and left me leading the first day being .7s up on second place.

Johanna opted to run in open class in lieue of a ladies class of 1 driver (her). On day 1, she had to stand on her first run, because 2nd run slowed down a bit. Her 3rd run was blazing fast, .5s faster than my fastest, but nabbed a cone. She was sitting in 3rd at the end of day 1.

On Johanna's 1st run, we blew sound! There's a 100dB hard limit, and we hit 100.5dB (lol). I was prepared for this because the car is pretty dang loud and we've brushed up against the limit at a couple events. I picked up a Vortex stainless steel mesh cone insert last year as a backup plan if we ever blew sound. Popped that in and bolted it in place - the next run we dropped 6dB! That's about twice what I expected it to drop, that thing is awesome.





Day 2 brought new adventures. My goal for 1st run was clean, absolutely no cones. I never lost sight of this throughout the run and drove conservatively, BUT, it was still fast. That's good, because Johanna's first run changed everything. She went out and the exhaust turndown slipped off...and looks like it snagged the diff wires on its way out. And the exhaust was now pointed directly at them...so, of course, they melted. And shorted against each other because they were bare wires. And the car went into FWD mode. It was a great scratch time, but she picked up a cone in the first slalom...

I didn't realize any of this until I hopped back into my car and the very light launch caused the front wheels to spin...ugh. This isn't going to be good. My 2nd run was 0.8s slower than my first. The car sucks. So, I get back and say we're taking a mechanical delay. We get 10 minutes to attempt a fix and after getting the car up, I realize 10 minutes isn't going to be enough to fix anything. All the wires were melted together and it's real bad. Johanna and I discuss, and she decides to take the car out for a 2nd run since she's still sitting in 3rd place. FWD mode, she keeps it clean and is ~.6s faster than her 1st run time. Still sitting in 3rd.

I opt to forfeit my 3rd run - there's pretty much no chance of me besting it without rear drive, and I'm still sitting in 1st with my first run. Johanna wants a crack at a 3rd run so we set it up like most FWD cars and crank up rear pressures to make it rotate a bit more. No dice on the 3rd run.





After all of that, my single good run on the second day was enough for me to hold onto 1st place Johanna slipped back to 4th place after another guy put in a really solid clean run. No doubt the lack of RWD was the killer of her trophying




Back home, I've already spliced in new wires to replace the chewed up sections. I'll take it out for a drive tonight. The DTC and 4x4 light are gone after doing it, so I'm hopeful nothing else is wrong.




This coming weekend, we have the champ tour in Peru, IN. After I confirm the diff fix, I'll do a quick once over of the car but it should be ready to go.
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 Old 06-18-2018, 12:29 PM   #1079
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It was another good weekend...HOT, but it was still a lot of fun. I find out that we're running first heat...but that probably ended up being a blessing so we weren't fighting overheated tires.

I arrived early Friday morning to get everything ready for the test and tune. I wanted to test higher hot pressures for concrete after running on asphalt successfully with higher pressures. Test and tune confirmed this was a good choice and we have new hot targets for concrete.

Johanna got in just in time to get a couple course walks in and we had a decent game plan going into Saturday runs. We still walked a couple more times Saturday morning and I didn't change my mind of how I wanted to drive it. The course wasn't going to drive terribly fast, but they had what I would consider a drag race start - there was a very slight curve to the entire start that opened up into a straight. This is good. That whole situation is a straight for me and decide we're going to launch the car.

The car is fast. First run, it's fast. 45.0xx but I pick up 2 cones along the way. Johanna lays down a 45.9xx on first run but also picks up a cone. I remind myself that the car turns in like a beast and push myself to clean things up in second run - I lay down a clean 44.9xx run that has me on top of the class. Johanna runs a 45.4 but picks up a cone. Last run I try to push harder but only pick up a tenth for a 44.8, and Johanna runs a 45.710 that's clean. At the end of the first day, I'm on top by over 0.8s and Johanna is sitting in 2nd with 3rd, 4th and 5th place all within a quarter second of her time.


We get some AC before we walk day 2's course (mostly day 1's course, but run in reverse) - but when we do we see a massive "straight" section that has a small kink in it. I'm concerned. Remember that I'm competing with muscle cars that have a LOT more power and a LOT more gear available. I'm sitting at ~260hp and 69mph at the top of 2nd, while the other cars are nearing 400hp and 80mph, with the biggest hitter in class making around 500hp with an 85mph second gear (Shelby GT500). Do I shift, do I ride limiter? I decide that I'm going to ride limiter 1st run to feel it out. I know that a blown 3 to 2 downshift will hurt me a lot more than riding the limiter for a second or two.

Day 2 rolls around and we walk the course a couple more times before runs. Massive straight still has me slightly concerned, but don't change my mind to ride the limiter. Run time. The start is still a drag race start, but the timing lights start pretty far past staging. Contemplate not launching, but what fun is that? Launch car, I suck at driving and am WAYY over braking for the first half of the course. At the end of first runs pretty much the entire heat is running the same times, but we all know there's a ton more out there. 41.7 is my time, and Johanna runs .004s slower than I do.

2nd run I put the hammer down, suck a lot less, and pick up 1.1s for a 40.6. This is good, but my competition has found speed, also, running a 40.4. Johanna picks up a bit running a 41.5. Third run I know that there's more out there and decide to drive it harder pretty much everywhere. The car is fast, good lord it has grip. I drop another .6s to dip into the 39's. Johanna pushes harder, but pushes a little wide in a couple corners and only finds .6s for a 40.9. The competition also finds some speed with one of them running a 39.7, but my day 1 lead of .8s is more than enough to hold on for the win. Johanna got bumped back to 4th spot after everything shakes out. I took the class by a combined .674s over second place.

To give a better idea of just how stiff the competition was, I ended up 3rd on pax out of 275 drivers. 2nd in ESP was 4th on pax, 3rd in ESP was 10th, and 4th in class (Johanna) was 16th on pax. Great competition.








Upcoming projects and events:

The car was a little pushy at high speed, and we want more front grip at all speeds. I think the spoiler is very effective, to the point that it needs balanced with the front splitter before I make other hardware changes. Since the car didn't have any issues over the weekend, I'll pick up the splitter project again and we'll test at the next local autocross.

Data Acquisition - With nats, you can't have a passenger on course. So, we're left with giving advice based on what we just drove and hope it translates to something usable for each other based on what we saw from the sidelines. We've been talking about getting SoloStorm for a little while. Johanna got me an Android tablet for my birthday, so I ordered the SoloStorm connectivity package to go with it.


The weekend of July 1st is a double header at the same site we were just at (Peru, IN). That will be used for splitter testing if it's finished, and also for getting familiar with SoloStorm.

The week after that is a huge double header in Bristol, TN. The nationals Match Tour is July 4-6, and the nationals Champ Tour is July 6-8. We're doing both. This will be my first match tour, so it should be fun.
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 Old 06-24-2018, 06:57 AM   #1080
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Back to the splitter stuff. I picked up a great condition front bumper a couple weeks back, so I'm doing the splitter test on my old bumper that's seen a lot of abuse.

I set the splitter that I cut a few weeks ago back under the car. My game plan was to attach it to the tiny air dam that protrudes from the bottom of the bumper. I used the plumb bob and paint method again to lay out dots of where I wanted the edge to fall:



From those points, I measured up to the point where I wanted the top of the fence to mate to the bumper to form a decent seal. That's what all those scribbled numbers are along the edge.


I laid out the main fence - it's just some garden edging plastic. I screwed it into the splitter to form the backbone of the fence:



I left it a little long so I could figure something out with the back corners.





I used some more plastic garden edging to extend the fence upwards. From the scribbled numbers, I knew how tall each section had to be, so I pre-cut it and then riveted it on:





After setting the bumper on it a few times and doing some final trimming, I riveted the bumper to the fence:





Back onto the car to figure out supports:






In the front, I knew I didn't want a rigid connection. I want the splitter to be able to lever upwards a little bit in front in case I ever hit anything. Cable supports are perfect for this:



^^Notice the carabiners for easy removal.




In the rear, I also needed a method of quick attachment. I bolted a vertical support to the frame horn via some rivnuts and M8 hardware. On the bottom, I'm using an L-bracket and spring pins.



I used pins that are about 1/2" too long and I set the L-brackets outboard by ~1/4". This should make install and removal much easier.



Rattle can the splitter and we're on for testing next weekend.

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