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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Suspension & Brakes Discussion for suspension items like coilovers, springs, sway bars, mounts,chassis bracing and brakes.


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 Old 09-16-2018, 08:07 AM   #1
 
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Default preferred choice of suspension components

I am in need of ball joints for my MS6. Looking around at various manufacturers I am conflicted on what brand that should be chosen. I worked at an auto parts store and sold MOOG for years and have come to trust the product, back in the day we sold Spicer Chassis but seems like Spicer got out of that game which is sad.

I have come down to two choices but am open to other suggestions. Its either going to be MOOG or Mevotech. Doing some research I am coming up with hit or miss on either product. I drive my car a little hard but don't autocross it and I don't feel like having to replace stuff again in about a year from now.

MOOG pluses are the name and reputation.

Mevotech pluses are grease fittings.

Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here with this question and again I am open to other suggested manufactures to go with.
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06 Speed6
White/Black interior
Sure Diff Mounts, JBR Intake, JBR I/C Hoses, Wiesco pistons .5mm over, Molnar H-Beam Rods, King bearings, New to me Cylinder Block, CS turbo, CS catted turbo back exhaust, CS HPFP, CS EBCS, CS injector seals, AP v3, FREEKTUNE, rebuilt clutch from Falcon Clutch with kevlar lining, DM PCV plate, DM stage 1 OCC, EcoBoost oil pump
Soon: CS HPFP line, fix oil leak from turbo return line and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
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 Old 09-16-2018, 08:43 AM   #2
 
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I will be replacing my front end in the near future. I have a urethane bushing kit, but it doesnt make sense to install them into 150k+ mile parts that coukd be on their way out.

So basically, I'm not sure which brand to buy either.
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 159.7k Miles (Forged @ 157,116)
Manley 88mm Pistons & H-Tuff Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Poly FSB Bushings, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC/PCV Plate
AWR TMM on stand-by
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-16-2018, 10:53 AM   #3
 
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im not above trying to get new OEM. That could most likely be the best choice with poly bushes. What bushing kit did you go with @Fstrnyou; ?
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06 Speed6
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Sure Diff Mounts, JBR Intake, JBR I/C Hoses, Wiesco pistons .5mm over, Molnar H-Beam Rods, King bearings, New to me Cylinder Block, CS turbo, CS catted turbo back exhaust, CS HPFP, CS EBCS, CS injector seals, AP v3, FREEKTUNE, rebuilt clutch from Falcon Clutch with kevlar lining, DM PCV plate, DM stage 1 OCC, EcoBoost oil pump
Soon: CS HPFP line, fix oil leak from turbo return line and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
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 Old 09-16-2018, 10:46 PM   #4
 
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New OEM LCAs for MS6 are $330 just for the lower forward pair from Tascaparts.com. Part number:
GR1A-34-300

Damn y'all have some expensive shit! For $170 I would just get the 1A 6 piece kit. Even if you break everything, buy them again and you're still ahead lol.

For MS3 the OEMs are only $242 for the pair from TascaParts.com. Parts numbers:
B39D-34-350 Left
B39D-34-300 Right

Both come with new bushings and ball joints

Last edited by Solarsurge; 09-16-2018 at 11:02 PM. Reason: My stupid ass always looks for MS3 parts first lol
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 Old 09-17-2018, 12:54 AM   #5
 
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I really only want to do this once and not have to do it every six months with a new alignment each time, so far I found a deal on lower fronts on fleabay.
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06 Speed6
White/Black interior
Sure Diff Mounts, JBR Intake, JBR I/C Hoses, Wiesco pistons .5mm over, Molnar H-Beam Rods, King bearings, New to me Cylinder Block, CS turbo, CS catted turbo back exhaust, CS HPFP, CS EBCS, CS injector seals, AP v3, FREEKTUNE, rebuilt clutch from Falcon Clutch with kevlar lining, DM PCV plate, DM stage 1 OCC, EcoBoost oil pump
Soon: CS HPFP line, fix oil leak from turbo return line and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
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 Old 09-17-2018, 01:11 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
I really only want to do this once and not have to do it every six months with a new alignment each time, so far I found a deal on lower fronts on fleabay.

Honestly, I donít know why anyone would need to replace the arms unless theyíre rusted. They are pretty damn strong. The bushings and ball joints are cheap enough to replace and can be pressed out. If you are rusted out, need to replace them, or just donít want to bother, I would go with the cheapest reputable option for typical daily and road driving. You wonít be thrashing them that hard and letís be honest, thereís a good chance they will outlast the remainder of the life of the car. Itís over 10 years old and youíre just now replacing them.


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 Old 09-17-2018, 05:44 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
Honestly, I donít know why anyone would need to replace the arms unless theyíre rusted. They are pretty damn strong. The bushings and ball joints are cheap enough to replace and can be pressed out. If you are rusted out, need to replace them, or just donít want to bother, I would go with the cheapest reputable option for typical daily and road driving. You wonít be thrashing them that hard and letís be honest, thereís a good chance they will outlast the remainder of the life of the car. Itís over 10 years old and youíre just now replacing them.


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If you can figure out how to change ball joints in intergraded arms you could make millions. If I could replace just the ball joints we wouldnít be having this conversation, I have a 6 not a 3. Your statement is a little understandable but Iím not going to put a $30 arm with ball joint in and have to replacd it again in six months, ideally Iíd get another 50-100k out of replacements
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06 Speed6
White/Black interior
Sure Diff Mounts, JBR Intake, JBR I/C Hoses, Wiesco pistons .5mm over, Molnar H-Beam Rods, King bearings, New to me Cylinder Block, CS turbo, CS catted turbo back exhaust, CS HPFP, CS EBCS, CS injector seals, AP v3, FREEKTUNE, rebuilt clutch from Falcon Clutch with kevlar lining, DM PCV plate, DM stage 1 OCC, EcoBoost oil pump
Soon: CS HPFP line, fix oil leak from turbo return line and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
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 Old 09-17-2018, 05:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
I am in need of ball joints for my MS6. Looking around at various manufacturers I am conflicted on what brand that should be chosen. I worked at an auto parts store and sold MOOG for years and have come to trust the product, back in the day we sold Spicer Chassis but seems like Spicer got out of that game which is sad.

I have come down to two choices but am open to other suggestions. Its either going to be MOOG or Mevotech. Doing some research I am coming up with hit or miss on either product. I drive my car a little hard but don't autocross it and I don't feel like having to replace stuff again in about a year from now.

MOOG pluses are the name and reputation.

Mevotech pluses are grease fittings.

Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here with this question and again I am open to other suggested manufactures to go with.
For the 6, I actually like the ball joints without grease fittings. I have an LCA with a grease fitting and aside from having to actually grease it, it gets messy when you push some old grease out. That gets caked with dirt and it's just nasty.

Not sure what your price range is, but I've had SPC's on my car for about 4 years without any issue. Gives you the ability to adjust camber if you need to.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 06:53 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
im not above trying to get new OEM. That could most likely be the best choice with poly bushes. What bushing kit did you go with @Fstrnyou; ?
I got the Russian bushings almost 2 years ago and they've been sitting in their box. I only recently got the rear bushings installed.
__________________
2006 MS6 GT - 159.7k Miles (Forged @ 157,116)
Manley 88mm Pistons & H-Tuff Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22's, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Russian Bushings in Back, Poly FSB Bushings, Magnaflow CBE
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/Stage 2 OCC/PCV Plate
AWR TMM on stand-by
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Parts Getter
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So, in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44) apex seals said buh bye!
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:03 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
If you can figure out how to change ball joints in intergraded arms you could make millions. If I could replace just the ball joints we wouldn’t be having this conversation, I have a 6 not a 3. Your statement is a little understandable but I’m not going to put a $30 arm with ball joint in and have to replacd it again in six months, ideally I’d get another 50-100k out of replacements
I installed Beck Arnley LCA's from Rock Auto front arm and rear arm over two years ago and 20k miles without issue. No way would I buy OEM $$$$. I installed SPC up top and Whiteline control arm bushings. My shit is solid.

If I have to replace them 10K miles down the road I don't care. Its easy to do and I'd still be spending far far less than OEM. Only thing I had to get from the dealer are the aluminum bushings the ball joint shanks slide into. They get stuck on the old ball joints and are not re-useable.

YMMV.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:31 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
New OEM LCAs for MS6 are $330 just for the lower forward pair from Tascaparts.com. Part number:
GR1A-34-300

Damn y'all have some expensive shit! For $170 I would just get the 1A 6 piece kit. Even if you break everything, buy them again and you're still ahead lol.
Damn, the 6 kits are cheap too, I wonder how crappy they are.
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 Old 09-17-2018, 10:44 AM   #12
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For lower control arms in the front suspension:

Forward arm (short, straight arm) - Deeza. I'd get them again, as they were really, really inexpensive. I've had them for 3-4 years, ~70k miles. They've put up with a HUGE number of autocross runs and have withstood the ludicrous lateral loads we put on them with the stickies (we've pulled >1.6 lateral g's at events this year).


Rearward arm (curvy, long arm) - I think I have Moogs, but I'll need to check when I get home.
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 Old 09-18-2018, 01:49 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
I installed Beck Arnley LCA's from Rock Auto front arm and rear arm over two years ago and 20k miles without issue. No way would I buy OEM $$$$. I installed SPC up top and Whiteline control arm bushings. My shit is solid.

If I have to replace them 10K miles down the road I don't care. Its easy to do and I'd still be spending far far less than OEM. Only thing I had to get from the dealer are the aluminum bushings the ball joint shanks slide into. They get stuck on the old ball joints and are not re-useable.

YMMV.
10k is like a year of less for me, screw that, that is unacceptable... The time, money and aggravation is so not worth it for that shit of a product.

Consider this, OEM lasted for over 100k miles, if i can get away with putting all OEM back in it, then conceivably the car would be good for another 100k and/or the rest of its service life. If it was fact that MOOG/Beck/Mevotech or any other aftermarket was going to hold up for at the vary least 50k I would have no question about putting any of those aftermarket companies parts on the car because to me half or greater than half of what the OEM was is acceptable.

I must be in the rare .001% who just wants to put a product in thats going to last and not the absolute cheapest garbage and have to constantly work on the car replacing the same shit over and over and over again thus wasting twice the money let alone time on something you could replace once.

ok now that my dumbass rant is over....

phate; I would appreciate if you did look to see what you put in your car and look forward to what you report back with, also on the SPC upper ball joints is your car lowered and if so how much? If my car gets lowered its only going to be about an inch for drivability in my area.

fstrnyou; hopefully those bushings arnt radioactive

I went with an OEM straight arm and Moog rearward and upper arm for what I need right now, inspection is coming due and need it done so thats what was settled for but the other components will need changing soon too so a decision/direction will have to be in the works soon
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06 Speed6
White/Black interior
Sure Diff Mounts, JBR Intake, JBR I/C Hoses, Wiesco pistons .5mm over, Molnar H-Beam Rods, King bearings, New to me Cylinder Block, CS turbo, CS catted turbo back exhaust, CS HPFP, CS EBCS, CS injector seals, AP v3, FREEKTUNE, rebuilt clutch from Falcon Clutch with kevlar lining, DM PCV plate, DM stage 1 OCC, EcoBoost oil pump
Soon: CS HPFP line, fix oil leak from turbo return line and some more stuff....


To think... this is suppose to be my winter car... because,

'72 AMC Javelin AMX 366 CI, 4speed 13.13 quickest 1/4 mile et so far

'12 1/2 Triumph Daytona 675R stock some how
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 Old 09-18-2018, 02:04 PM   #14
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Thanks for the reminder.

Forward LCA - Deeza MDH206

Rearward LCA - Moog
CK620277 & CK620278

The Moogs have grease fittings and have held up great. I just don't like that they get so nasty from greasing them.

Both the Moogs and Deeza's have 60k miles on them, plus all the autocross runs. They've been in 4.5 years.


For the SPC uppers - The front end of my car is lowered maybe 1.5" from stock height. Hard to tell anymore with the flares, and I reference everything from full bump now. You shouldn't have any issue with ride height, they'll go full bump without necking out.

If you get the SPC uppers, I recommend inspecting the upper control arm bushings at the least. They don't see a lot of load, but time may have gotten to them. I'm running whiteline polyurethane bushings up there with similar mileage to everything else.

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 Old 09-18-2018, 02:19 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
I must be in the rare .001% who just wants to put a product in thats going to last and not the absolute cheapest garbage and have to constantly work on the car replacing the same shit over and over and over again thus wasting twice the money let alone time on something you could replace once.

In all fairness, youíre asking a group of people who work on their cars constantly and can swap control arms in about 15 minutes. Also, most of us who would be responding to your threads actually track/race our cars, so they will see about 1,000x more abuse than yours. Our 10,000 Miles could be your 200,000 Miles. Something could break every time we go out on the track. Iíd much rather it be a $30 part (1/6 of $170) than a $165 part. If thereís one thing I absolutely fucking hate doing, though, itís getting ball joints out of a knuckle. So, believe me... I wouldnít want to do it regularly. lol


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 Old 09-18-2018, 03:16 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
In all fairness, you’re asking a group of people who work on their cars constantly and can swap control arms in about 15 minutes. Also, most of us who would be responding to your threads actually track/race our cars, so they will see about 1,000x more abuse than yours. Our 10,000 Miles could be your 200,000 Miles. Something could break every time we go out on the track. I’d much rather it be a $30 part (1/6 of $170) than a $165 part. If there’s one thing I absolutely fucking hate doing, though, it’s getting ball joints out of a knuckle. So, believe me... I wouldn’t want to do it regularly. lol


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Yep, exactly. But someone has to keep the dealers in business. So to each his own.

And some of us, like myself, enjoy working on the car. Not to the level of buying cheap parts and replacing them often. I have never experience that over the course of the 60K miles I've owned it. And how can you accurately state that my saying "If I had to replace in 10K miles" is a true fact? Do you have experience to say this is true? Don't go bashing a product without anecdotal evidence.

If I thought the Beck Arnley wasn't going to last I wouldn't have bought it. My commute everyday consists of driving up and over a twisty mountain highway. I push my car hard at times and my cheap ass parts have held up just fine.

So go get your OEM parts and enjoy your 100K trouble free miles then. Sounds like you already made up your mind before you even posted this question. So what was the point?
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 Old 09-18-2018, 03:28 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by LenSpeed6 View Post
10k is like a year of less for me, screw that, that is unacceptable... The time, money and aggravation is so not worth it for that shit of a product.

Consider this, OEM lasted for over 100k miles, if i can get away with putting all OEM back in it, then conceivably the car would be good for another 100k and/or the rest of its service life. If it was fact that MOOG/Beck/Mevotech or any other aftermarket was going to hold up for at the vary least 50k I would have no question about putting any of those aftermarket companies parts on the car because to me half or greater than half of what the OEM was is acceptable.

I must be in the rare .001% who just wants to put a product in thats going to last and not the absolute cheapest garbage and have to constantly work on the car replacing the same shit over and over and over again thus wasting twice the money let alone time on something you could replace once.

ok now that my dumbass rant is over....

phate; I would appreciate if you did look to see what you put in your car and look forward to what you report back with, also on the SPC upper ball joints is your car lowered and if so how much? If my car gets lowered its only going to be about an inch for drivability in my area.

fstrnyou; hopefully those bushings arnt radioactive

I went with an OEM straight arm and Moog rearward and upper arm for what I need right now, inspection is coming due and need it done so thats what was settled for but the other components will need changing soon too so a decision/direction will have to be in the works soon
Oh, and one more thing. You bash on all the aftermarket control arm suspension components; but its been my experience thus far that the SPC upper adjustable ball joints fail within the course of a year. While my cheap ass Beck Arnley stuff has survived some heavy loads and very rough roads!

I have spoken to SPC about this and they say its likely caused by the grease drying up inside. They cannot install a grease zerk fitting on them due to the design. So I am told by them to get a needle tip for my grease gun and inject them that way then silicone the hole shut. Nice huh? Thought you might want to know. Perhaps others have had better luck I hope!

My car is indeed lowered but it should not affect the long term reliability of their ball joint.

I have replaced about 4 of them over the course of 60K miles as they start clicking and get loose. So I just keep one on the shelf at all times.
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