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 Old 06-09-2018, 06:20 PM   #521
 
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Originally Posted by zorcain View Post
Hi i am new to the mazda community and am about to take ownership of a 2007 cx-7 ... my first mazda... it has 142,000 mi btw... i have just finished reading the entire big turbo thread you have and i have also read your valve body mod fourm as well i am very impressed with your work... it is amazing... i am messing you tho mainly for 1 question until i begin my project and then will probably have others lol.... buy before i begin my builds i usually like to know how far i can go... my main question is with this exact vehicle what can the trans handle.... i will be upgrading or purchasing a upgraded valve body... how reliable has your transmission been... how hard on it are you on a regular basis.... and do you have any dyno numbers that you are making so i can tell reliability...how long you have been running trans at that #'s without any issues.... any help is appreciated... thank you.... i have dug into it but i cant find hard numbers of max hp/tq before breaking or built high numbers for a consistent amount of time with dyno to show what they held for such amount of time before breaking of showing issues of slippage and such.... my goal isnt full blown racer maxed out but i would like to be in the 350-400 hp range daily... i have tools parts and exp to do this quickly but i dont want to kill the trans... have a tight budget and having to replace the trans at an unexpected time will be very difficult + possible put me in a bad position...
thank you again and again love the work you have done.


Hi Zorcain,

The trans can handle the abuse I can tell you, but it need some modding

The drawback of modding the trans is that you will have to use the manual shifting mode all the time

I tried to get some HP/TQ numbers from Virtual Dyno, but the program is not compatible with automatic trans (the torque converter mess up the engine RPM data and render the calculation useless...you will get very high number at the start of the pull, and very low number at the end of the pull)

I am presently running 32psi boost (around 450 gram/sec airflow) with a hybrid boost control setup, and the boost response is very aggressive, yet the trans does the job perfectly

Note however that I had to adjust the clutch control valves many times to get at the right shift firmness (the TCM adapts to the adjustment of the clutch control valves to try and keep the shift like OEM...you need access ports on the trans cover to be able to adjust the clutch control valves everytime the TCM adapts...at one point you will reach the limit of the TCM adaptability and the shift firmness will remain...at that point you will no longer be able to use the automatic mode)

I also fabricated a main pressure control valve with an oversized boost valve to get more line pressure at WOT (I will show you pics and drawing of this valve if you need it)

A trans cooler is also very important...I fitted a Derale remote cooler at the back (at the stock muffler location) to keep the trans cool and for the added ATF (the cooler is set at 180F and it regularly engage)

You will also need to delete the TCS fuse, otherwise the ECU will close the throttle everytime the tires slip

There is also the possibility for some kind of launch control with this car...I recently found out that the ECU uses the Overload ignition timing tables when Brake torquing/boosting...right now I can consistently get 15psi boost in 4 sec with the accelerator pedal to the floor with the brake not failing
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 06-09-2018, 06:59 PM   #522
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
Hi Zorcain,

The trans can handle the abuse I can tell you, but it need some modding

The drawback of modding the trans is that you will have to use the manual shifting mode all the time
Wow, still pushing the envelope.

You must be maxing out the stock fuel system and relying on your WMI at 450g/sec airflow. I was only hitting around 300g/sec with my previous setup.

Are you running 50:50 WMI or 100% methanol?

I have used your initial valve body settings and mine is still auto shifting with the stock turbo and shifting better than standard.
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2007 CX7 2.3 DISI AWD | Forged Build | Mahle Pistons | Molnar Rods | APR studs | Corksport Turbo @25psi | ETS TMIC | Cobb XLE BOV | CS HPFP | JBR 3.5" WPI | Cooling Mist WMI | CS OCC | CX9 20x7.5's | CX9 Brakes | Pedders Lowered 40mm | VersaTuned by Stratified
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 Old 06-10-2018, 08:39 AM   #523
 
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Originally Posted by Ozynigma View Post
Wow, still pushing the envelope.

You must be maxing out the stock fuel system and relying on your WMI at 450g/sec airflow. I was only hitting around 300g/sec with my previous setup.

Are you running 50:50 WMI or 100% methanol?

I have used your initial valve body settings and mine is still auto shifting with the stock turbo and shifting better than standard.
Yes...still pushing the envelope

Im running a little more than 1000cc/min of 100% meth

Glad to hear the initial valve body mods are doing great for your conservative setup

You should tell Mituc to stop messing around and give you more boost

While im here, I will give some update of the big turbo project

First I have to tell that the BMW air oil separator is not that great a product...you cant ask a lot from a 25$ parts...i was getting oil in the intake at 32psi and oil in the engine bay when going VTA

I temporarily routed the air oil separator outlet under the car for a while, but just bought a Perrin air oil separator (costed an arm and a leg)...the AOS (air oil separator) as coolant ports to prevent it from freezing in winter

Thats the AOS in question : https://www.perrin.com/shop/engine/air-oil-separator

I also bought this PCV plate : https://www.topspeedparts.com/produc...lock-off-plate

I will mod the valve cover breather so it less restrictive and plug it on the AOS

A hose coming from the PCV plate will also be routed to the AOS

The outlet of the AOS will got to the intake

I will delete the oil cap breather...will put back the OEM oil cap

The only problem with this setup is that the Forge BPV is VTA, so in vacuum the BPV will be venting some crankcase vapor in the engine bay...so it will smell when not moving....I will need the weld a port on the intake so the BPV can be used in recirculation mode (no venting of crankcase in the engine bay)

I recently changed my crappy Toyota injector seals for the Corksport seal (2 of the Toyota seals failed real bad)

I changed the Bosch intercooler pump for a Mercedes AMG CWA100 pump...had to wire a PWM controller to have the pump run at 100%

I didnt like the boost response with the 8psi wastegate setup (everytime I tried a stronger spring setup in the wastegate I got insane boost level with minimum BCS DC), so plugged in my good old Perrin MBC, and use a MAC solenoid plugged with the meth injection controller as a failsafe to get spring pressure (8psi) in case of failure of the meth injection system (the Aquamist HFS4 has a very nice failsafe setup)

With the MBC I get a very aggressive boost response...just the way I like it

Not sure I mentioned this before in the thread, but I placed a Derale remote transmission cooler at the position of the stock muffler...the cooler does a great job and prevent the transmission from overheating (I use to get transmission slipping and retarded shift when doing long pull, but no more)

I will post some pics later of the mods...
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 06-10-2018, 10:47 AM   #524
 
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Pics of the failed injectors seals, insulated intercooler, manifold #2 (the first manifold was made from gage 11 stainless steel mandrel bends...lets say that mandrel bends are not good for a manifold, and that stainless expands too much with heat...the new manifold is made from schedule 40 steel ells) and finally the new sets of wheels (Nexen Rodian HP 265/45R20 on RTX Envy 20X9.5 ET40)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg injector seals1.jpg (125.1 KB, 10 views)
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File Type: jpg wheels1.jpg (198.9 KB, 9 views)
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File Type: jpg wheels 4.jpg (424.2 KB, 13 views)
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-12-2018, 01:35 AM   #525
 
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I have literally just binge read this entire article from start to finish, more forum reading than I've done in over 5 years.

You sir, should give yourself a pat on the back for your extraordinary workmanship, determination, patience and the overall build.

You're killing it.

I would absolutely love to chat with you about a few things pertaining to my own build.
@torquemaniac
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 Old 08-12-2018, 05:37 AM   #526
 
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Originally Posted by EvilMmotorsports View Post
I have literally just binge read this entire article from start to finish, more forum reading than I've done in over 5 years.

You sir, should give yourself a pat on the back for your extraordinary workmanship, determination, patience and the overall build.

You're killing it.

I would absolutely love to chat with you about a few things pertaining to my own build.
@torquemaniac
Hi...thanks for the compliment

If you want to chat you can do it on Facebook (I dont an IG account)...just search for Eric Lanthier (there are 2 turbo on my profile picture)

While im here, I will update the thread :

In July I started to see a lot of oil coming from the crank breather....did a compression test and cylinder 3 was at 130 (180 all other)

After that I did a general checkup of the engine bay and noticed that my turbo was not spooling at idle (it did spool before at idle)

Decided to do an turbo rebuilt since I had a kit in hand and knew that the bearing were probably toasted because I stopped doing turbo cooldown after a run a while ago because im lazy (oil cooled turbo)

Did the turbo rebuilt, but unfortunately forgot to put the Viton o-ring in the CHRA (it was under a fucking paper in the rebuild package)

Comes monday and I go to work like everyday...the car run super great....turbo spool super fast...suddenly the car start to sputter and I see a freakin cloud of smoke behind the car...the turbo was pissing oil in the compressor housing due to the missing o-ring

I had to unplug the turbo from the hot pipe and clamp the oil feed line of the turbo to get home...that made a real mess and toasted the bearing, but I made it home with the car

Bought another rebuilt kit and did the job right...but the engine have a hard time revving up now and the turbo can barely spool to 2psi

After some research I come to the conclusion that the catalytic converter is clogged due to all the oil that passed there from all my mistakes

I then plan a full rebuilt and bought stock pistons and all the necessary hardware from SpeedPerformance at a damn good price, and did the engine rebuild in the 3rd week of July (plugged the Perrin air/oil separator at the same time)

Engine fired perfectly after the second start and the car ran great through the break-in period

Went to a Mazdaspeed meet and people love the car...did some WOT run on the highway with the crew...everything was OK

This wednesday I decide to crank the boost to 30 psi (I was at 27 psi, and gradually going back to 33psi as before the rebuilt) and did a fourth gear pull on the highway just before the exit to my workplace...the car was pulling like a beast then suddenly huge cloud of smoke behind the car...like really huge

I manage to get at my workplace on inertia alone...stop the car and open the hood...the engine is on fire

Finally stopped the fire with water (my never before used fire extinguisher didnt work at all...you can feel its full by weight, but it wont spray at all)

The dispstick popped and splashed oil everywhere...not sure if thats why the engine caught fire though

I tried to restart the engine but in a matter of seconds there is a monstrous cloud of smoke coming from the tailpipe and behind the engine (and the engine runs very rough...like its dying)

The car will be towed at my cousin chalet and will lay there for a while until I decide to bring it back to life

In the meantime I am looking to buy a used Mitsubishi Evolution MR

I will post form my cells later...
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-12-2018, 05:45 AM   #527
 
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Pics of oil coming from the crank breather
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-12-2018, 05:48 AM   #528
 
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Pics from the forgotten turbo o-ring mess
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-12-2018, 05:50 AM   #529
 
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Pics from the engine failure
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2011 CX-7 AWD 2.3 turbo
Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-12-2018, 05:56 AM   #530
 
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Some pics of the Mazdaspeed club meet...I am behind the yellow Protege Speed
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 08-18-2018, 06:46 PM   #531
 
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Update : piston and cylinder # 3 are dead..looks like detonation
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-12-2018, 03:58 PM   #532
 
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God, what a horror, put the forged motor? Tell me, what is your goal? Already groped L3K9?
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 Old 10-12-2018, 05:33 PM   #533
 
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Dismantled the engine and look like there was pre-ignition and the cylinder and piston melted

I got a used block from the scrap yard and put forged internals (Supertech pistons and Eagle rods)

I had to bent slightly the oil squirters for the Supertech pistons, but now im wondering if those damn oil squirters can unbend with heat...gettong paranoid after the engine failure
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-12-2018, 05:42 PM   #534
 
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Pics of the melted OEM piston and the forged Supertech piston
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-12-2018, 05:55 PM   #535
 
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Taking old engine out in the rain, new engine from scrap yard, new engine going in...
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-15-2018, 06:38 AM   #536
 
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There is probably many on here that successfully bent the oil squirter....

These supertech seem to have a nice deep bowl, is it the same cr ?
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 Old 10-15-2018, 08:12 AM   #537
 
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The Supertech have the same CR...here are the pistons I got : https://edgeautosport.com/supertech-...d-6-2006-2007/

Kept the 87.5mm bore...checked the pistons and bore and the piston/wall clearance was spot on...no boring needed, just honing

Made my fist oil change this week-end, and I have a small oil leak that seem to be coming form the rear oil seal (between the engine and transmission)

Now I need to stop being paranoid and get into boost to test the new engine
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-15-2018, 10:06 AM   #538
 
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Rear seal... a long job....Not sure if being atx on a cx7 make it easier but my 6 clutch is slipping and i was looking at how hard and long it is with T-case (Compared to my old3) to move away the transmission and conclude i will wait untill i'm ready to swap the engine all toghether....
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 Old 10-15-2018, 04:45 PM   #539
 
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I plan on doing a special tool to apply silicone around the rear seal with the oil pan removed...I definitely dont want to remove the whole engine just for the seal
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-16-2018, 10:05 AM   #540
 
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You mean silicone around the rear seal hosing, not the round seal itself ?

On the 3, it was silicone for the timing cover that gave me headache...it is hard to put it back without touching anywhere...

The clutch can be done without removing the engine but the ''how to'' i found for a 6 was to remove the whole sub frame and suspension along with obviously the t-case and drive shaft to be able to pull off the gearbox....On a rusted car, removing the whole sub frame means some broken bolts, new end link, alignment etc...So maybe removing the whole engine isn't harder than doing this?
On the 3 i was able to do it without removing the frame...

Anyway, after seeing your piston, i will lift the head of my backup engine to inspect it....i was confident that my fire was because of a frozen pcv but yesterday i took a compression test on it and #2 reported lower than the others and my mastercraft camera isn't clear enough to be sure...
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 Old 10-16-2018, 02:33 PM   #541
 
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Awesome build thread. You have some mad fab skills!
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 Old 10-16-2018, 06:53 PM   #542
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
You mean silicone around the rear seal hosing, not the round seal itself ?

On the 3, it was silicone for the timing cover that gave me headache...it is hard to put it back without touching anywhere...

The clutch can be done without removing the engine but the ''how to'' i found for a 6 was to remove the whole sub frame and suspension along with obviously the t-case and drive shaft to be able to pull off the gearbox....On a rusted car, removing the whole sub frame means some broken bolts, new end link, alignment etc...So maybe removing the whole engine isn't harder than doing this?
On the 3 i was able to do it without removing the frame...

Anyway, after seeing your piston, i will lift the head of my backup engine to inspect it....i was confident that my fire was because of a frozen pcv but yesterday i took a compression test on it and #2 reported lower than the others and my mastercraft camera isn't clear enough to be sure...
Yeah...I meant silicone around the seal housing

I also have a Mastercraft camera, and you cant see shit with this

It really pisses me off that the seal is leaking...its dripping under the car and it manage to get on my rear bumper (probably from the turbulence when driving)

I hope that putting silicone around the seal housing will be enough, but if there is some significant oil pressure there, the silicone wont be enough...I will have to remove the engine
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

Coming soon : Composite ram-air intake // Hood with heat extraction vent

"When the turbo spins the bull$hit ends" BOOST the replacement for displacement
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 Old 10-17-2018, 07:13 AM   #543
 
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Good chances it is just the joint, not the seal. The bottom sealing of these engine is a very bad design....
Have you used something similar to Mazda grey glue or silicone ? I personally used the mazda stuff at first and had to redo the front cover in place because of leaks. The second time, I used ''Right Stuff'' black silicone and it worked a lot better to fill larger hole. Especially the one between the aluminium pan/bloc and the metal hosing of the rear seal...

Mazda instructions for the pan seal is to loosen and move slightly away the gearbox to be able to put the pan in between without removing the front cover. I know some put it there without doing it but it give more risks for leaks....
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1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

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 Old 10-17-2018, 11:30 PM   #544
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
Yeah...I meant silicone around the seal housing

I also have a Mastercraft camera, and you cant see shit with this

It really pisses me off that the seal is leaking...its dripping under the car and it manage to get on my rear bumper (probably from the turbulence when driving)

I hope that putting silicone around the seal housing will be enough, but if there is some significant oil pressure there, the silicone wont be enough...I will have to remove the engine
You are going to hate me for saying this (with the benefit of hindsight). Always change the rear seal when the engine is out of the car. Its just not worth the risk of putting it all back together with an old seal.
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CX7 - The younger, taller and sexier replacement for the MS6.
2007 CX7 2.3 DISI AWD | Forged Build | Mahle Pistons | Molnar Rods | APR studs | Corksport Turbo @25psi | ETS TMIC | Cobb XLE BOV | CS HPFP | JBR 3.5" WPI | Cooling Mist WMI | CS OCC | CX9 20x7.5's | CX9 Brakes | Pedders Lowered 40mm | VersaTuned by Stratified
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Project Q - Another modder's thread - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Forum This thread Refback 11-17-2014 01:58 AM
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