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 Old 03-17-2011, 09:39 AM   #1
 
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Default transmission fluid change

looking for recommendations on fluids to use. heard about the MT90 (?) and toyotas IV (?) wondering about amounts as i am going to do a drain/flush/fill. im at 31k and the transmission is getting jerky so i think its time. im getting some strange revving/shifting patterns at 4th and 5th gear. went to local german dealership and they told me i was screwed here cause they dont support automatics. so he recommended oil change and see what happens. so any input would be helpful. how to would be great also... hate having to figure it out on the fly while paying money for a lift...
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 Old 03-17-2011, 09:45 AM   #2
 
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amsoil mtg
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 Old 03-17-2011, 11:31 AM   #3
 
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Check out this thread for the rear front differential oil and how to's
REFERENCE: MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures - 6Crew.com Forum
For automatic transmission oil I don't know exactly but I think it is the same as fords fluids like ford edge
Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid (1 Qt.)
Probably you 'll need a hand pump for fluid draining
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 Old 03-17-2011, 12:00 PM   #4
 
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oh forgot it was a cx7
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 Old 03-17-2011, 05:07 PM   #5
 
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I went to Toyota and bought 4 quarts of T-IV. Plug drain and refill was ~ 3.75 Quarts. If you want to get ~ 90% new in then do 3 plug drains and refills and drive ~ 25 mile minimum between each change. I would stick with T-IV fluid. One other possibility is Castrol ATF for IMPORTS which states is meets T-IV and Mobil #3309 which is T-IV fluid. Use a 6 point box wrench to drain but, I forgot the size. I would NOT pick an ATF that states "suitable for, or may be used or some such one-size-fits-all phase. "3309 /T-IV were specifically developed or the Aisin transmissions.
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 Old 03-17-2011, 09:48 PM   #6
 
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thanks ed!
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 Old 03-17-2011, 10:14 PM   #7
 
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do we have a how -to on this yet??

I'm planning to do one soon when rain stops, weekends free, stars align etc.

If not, I'll give taking a photo step by step a shot.
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 Old 03-17-2011, 10:44 PM   #8
 
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i didnt see one on search so i dont think so. main reason i asked. plus, no real info on what fluids to use/recommended/experiences.
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 Old 03-19-2011, 05:27 PM   #9
 
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I drained the fluid into an oil drain pan and then into a one gallon milk bottle. I filled a CLEAN one gallon milk bottle and poured the new ATF into it, to the same level as what was drained. I poured the new stuff in using a long neck AT funnel from WalMarts. Drove it about 10 miles to get the transmission warm and checked the AT level and it was good-job dome.
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 Old 03-19-2011, 06:09 PM   #10
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What Ed said. There is a gallon left in the torque converter and such. Only good flush is done at a shop with a flush kit.
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 Old 03-28-2011, 02:00 PM   #11
 
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The hex on the drain plug is 10 mm, like the bolts that hold the engine cover on.
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 Old 04-25-2011, 10:17 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Raider View Post
What Ed said. There is a gallon left in the torque converter and such. Only good flush is done at a shop with a flush kit.
so there is no way for a DIY flush?
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 Old 04-26-2011, 02:53 AM   #13
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Nope....
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 Old 04-27-2011, 12:30 AM   #14
 
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ok one last question if I am doing this for the first time and my car is looking like 100,000 miles what advantage would a flush give me? or could I just drain and refill
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 Old 04-27-2011, 03:12 AM   #15
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Well, supposed to do it 30k or 40k miles. Over 2x that. Pay for a flush! Then spend $10 here for VIP access to manuals, for sale section, and more. Oh, and set up an avatar!
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 Old 04-27-2011, 05:07 AM   #16
 
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I agree with Raider. I did a plug drain at 25-30K miles and the fluid looked new but, at 100K, a flush in the way to go. JMO. Ed
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 Old 04-27-2011, 04:46 PM   #17
 
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thanks, lol I kinda like the dude with the bold lettering as my avatar, I paid for the VIP even though I'm new on this forum i've been on others this is just a better site for my speed

thanks
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 Old 04-27-2011, 05:04 PM   #18
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Lol...
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 Old 05-24-2011, 01:17 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by bzwyatt View Post
The hex on the drain plug is 10 mm, like the bolts that hold the engine cover on.
So the transmission drain is the hex bolt (you use a 10mm allen) directly on the bottom to open/drain? Any pics? Its not as obvious as my MZ3.
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 Old 05-24-2011, 05:24 PM   #20
 
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I'll get a pic sometime this weekend, been meaning to for a while. But yeah, it's the 10mm allen right there on the bottom of the engine. It's toward the driver side from the oil drain and there's nothing else really around it. It is flat too, and kinda shiny, relative to the other metals under there. If you take one of the bolts from the engine cover and can fit it in the hex, that's the one.
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 Old 05-25-2011, 06:13 AM   #21
 
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Thanks. Looking forward to the pics. While you're under there could you point out the fill and drain plugs for the front diff and or transfer case? I'd appreciate it alot as would others I suspect.
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 Old 07-08-2011, 08:05 AM   #22
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Here's a pic of the drain bolt for reference:

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 Old 07-05-2013, 10:53 AM   #23
 
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Anyone know where the transmission filter is located? 2008 CX-7 Sport, automatic. We dropped the pan and it is not in there...
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 Old 02-10-2016, 07:34 PM   #24
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I am going to bump this motherfucker because I also can't find the fucking filter on the transmission.
Where is it?
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 Old 03-11-2016, 07:21 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
I am going to bump this motherfucker because I also can't find the fucking filter on the transmission.
Where is it?
I have never seen it and I have had the control valve cover off.

Have a look at the user manual for the transmission in the FAQ thread.

CX-7 FAQ Thread
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Anyone found that transmission filter ?
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 Old 08-31-2017, 09:05 PM   #27
 
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Default CX-7 Transmission cover removal for a 2011?

Hi Guys,

I am planning on a Filter+Fluid replacement(partial) on my(wife's) 2011 CX-7.
I bought the filter kit and 10 qt of oil already. I was under the car, noticed that the transmission pan + 4 of the 18 or so bolts for the cover are behind part of the A-Frame or whatever that is called. I suppose that I could just drain and replace a few quarts of the fluid using the hex plug, but I have the filter + gasket kit now? I could try to shimmy a stubby wrench in there to get at the ones behind the A-frame, but it seems almost like Mazda made this harder than it should be with this placement. Anyone every try this procedure with any luck?
Thank you in advance!

George
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 Old 09-01-2017, 07:12 AM   #28
 
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I wouldnt mess with trying to remove the oil...I also have a 2011 and push the transmission hard, and only changed the oil by the hex plug when I made mods to the transmission because the oil was still a nice red color

Just put back the same amount that come out
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 Old 09-01-2017, 07:55 AM   #29
 
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Default Will just replace the fluid at bare minimum.....

OK, Thanks.

I've scoured the Internet as to how to remove that CX-7 transmission oil cover \ pan properly with no luck yet. As long as you could get all 18 bolts removed, the gasket can be replaced and should not be a major effort.
I see these transmission gasket+ filter kits for sale all over the place, even frigging AutoZone, yet I am stumped nobody has posted a video or a guide on how to remove the pan and gasket yet with the pan being behind the frame.
Any thoughts as to whether the official service manual for the 2011 CX-7 would describe this procedure? The CX-7 has 45K miles and fluid color is starting to turn brown, so it's time.
Best Regards,

George
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 Old 09-24-2017, 02:07 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by edwhayes View Post
I drained the fluid into an oil drain pan and then into a one gallon milk bottle. I filled a CLEAN one gallon milk bottle and poured the new ATF into it, to the same level as what was drained. I poured the new stuff in using a long neck AT funnel from WalMarts. Drove it about 10 miles to get the transmission warm and checked the AT level and it was good-job dome.
I did the same yesterday - ditto for that tranny funnel. You'll never get any fluid in that skinny tube otherwise!

At 79k it was filthy, pitch black (probably original!), so don't believe for a minute you're not getting the same filth as engine oil. The internal clutch packs are shedding material that needs to be removed along with the oil/additive deterioration.

Changes at 30,000 miles may be a suggested interval but I intend to do it every 20,000 to preserve maximum reliability. You'll only need 3.5 quarts for each 'drain 'n refill' - measure the emptied amount from your vehicle but that should bring you right to the top mark on the tranny dipstick. I even jigsawed a hole in the plastic pan to avoid having to take it off to pull the Allen head plug - that's makin' it easy! (Engine oil plug already has an access panel too.)

However I determined the 2.4L tranny uses M5 fluid, not 3309 or T-IV. I got Mazda 0000-77-112E-01 Transmission Fluid from NORTHTOWNE PARTS on eBay for just under $13 per quart.
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 Old 09-24-2017, 04:42 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by Bstrom View Post
I did the same yesterday - ditto for that tranny funnel. You'll never get any fluid in that skinny tube otherwise!

At 79k it was filthy, pitch black (probably original!), so don't believe for a minute you're not getting the same filth as engine oil. The internal clutch packs are shedding material that needs to be removed along with the oil/additive deterioration.

Changes at 30,000 miles may be a suggested interval but I intend to do it every 20,000 to preserve maximum reliability. You'll only need 3.5 quarts for each 'drain 'n refill' - measure the emptied amount from your vehicle but that should bring you right to the top mark on the tranny dipstick. I even jigsawed a hole in the plastic pan to avoid having to take it off to pull the Allen head plug - that's makin' it easy! (Engine oil plug already has an access panel too.)

However I determined the 2.4L tranny uses M5 fluid, not 3309 or T-IV. I got Mazda 0000-77-112E-01 Transmission Fluid from NORTHTOWNE PARTS on eBay for just under $13 per quart.
How did you determine that the tranny uses M5 rather than JWS3309 ATF?

I did a lot of research on this transmission, and JWS3309 is the recommended ATF (it is even stated in the transmission manual)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf CX-7 transmission manual.pdf (11.33 MB, 19 views)
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 Old 09-24-2017, 05:37 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
How did you determine that the tranny uses M5 rather than JWS3309 ATF?

I did a lot of research on this transmission, and JWS3309 is the recommended ATF (it is even stated in the transmission manual)
I actually almost bought some 3309 fluid until I saw this:
https://mazda.oemdtc.com/698/automat...000-2016-mazda

This is for a 2011 CX-7 with the the 2.4L engine, BTW.
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 Old 09-25-2017, 03:40 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by Bstrom View Post
I actually almost bought some 3309 fluid until I saw this:
https://mazda.oemdtc.com/698/automat...000-2016-mazda

This is for a 2011 CX-7 with the the 2.4L engine, BTW.
OK...you have the 2.5L engine...that explain it
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Ported Holset HY35 // Custom top mount EM // Tial MV-S 38mm // Custom DP and catback // L2A intercooler // Perrin MBC // 3.25 Blow-thru MAF // Aquamist HFS-4 v.2 direct port injection // Eagle rods // Supertech 4032 pistons // Forge BPV v.2 // Perrin air/oil separator // Autotech HPFP // Custom RMM insert // TB coolant bypass // Full EGR delete // 3.5 bar MAP // Launch control with anti-lag // Derale remote transmission cooler // Upgraded transmission boost valve // Shimmed transmission accumulators // Adjusted transmission clutch control valve // Digital overboost protection system // Custom firewall heatshield // JKS rear spoiler // Painted VC and IM // BSD // Custom vent pod with boost and meth gauge // Tuned with Versatuner

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 Old 09-25-2017, 05:04 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by torquemaniac View Post
OK...you have the 2.5L engine...that explain it
Yeah, it was a trip getting this all straight. Their ATF was originally called M-V - and now it's M5 on their latest jugs. Clear as mud...

Engine oil specification is also quite different. But it figures...the turbo block needs a heavier oil and the non-turbo uses super light weight juice even though it's a lowish 9.3:1 compression ratio in order to use regular gas.
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 Old 09-25-2017, 06:38 AM   #35
 
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Talking Guys, I figured it out, finally, Procedure below.

I figured this out by watching a YouTube video for a guy changing his 2011 Mazda 6 transmission filter and fluid. Apparently, the transmission on the 2011 Mazda 6 and the CX-7 are not all that different, at least visually.
I started out by taking off the hex plug and draining the fluid.
Then I got to work on the 18 bolts that hold the pan onto the bottom of the transmission.
All came off easily, the 3-4 behind the frame required me to take off a plastic shield that is in the wheel well, between the wheel and the transmission. That used 3 nylon Philip screws.
Once all of the bolts were off, I had the hard task of prying off the pan with a paint scraper and undo the pink, liquid nails-like gasket adhesive caulk that Mazda uses to glue on the pan.
It broke off all at once,- without warning, so I got about 1/2 quart of fluid splashed onto my face when it suddenly broke free! Luckily is was not that hot by that time, but it was a REAL frigging mess! After a shower , I cleaned out the inside of the pan with 4 paper towels.
It was dirty after 47K miles, and some clutch dust and dirt was at the bottom, so I made that clean. I was able to pull out the plastic filter, put in the new quite easily, the reverse the installation, using the gasket that came with the kit. Once you pull off the filter, another 4-5 ounces will also come out behind the filter. FYI
The new gasket has 4 tabs, so that you can align it as you place the pan back on. Put all 18 bolts back on with your 10mm socket. I then put 4 quarts of new M5 in there, put the plastic wheel well shield back on, and it is running well.
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 Old 09-25-2017, 07:31 AM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by GeorgioP View Post
I figured this out by watching a YouTube video for a guy changing his 2011 Mazda 6 transmission filter and fluid. Apparently, the transmission on the 2011 Mazda 6 and the CX-7 are not all that different, at least visually.
I started out by taking off the hex plug and draining the fluid.
Then I got to work on the 18 bolts that hold the pan onto the bottom of the transmission.
All came off easily, the 3-4 behind the frame required me to take off a plastic shield that is in the wheel well, between the wheel and the transmission. That used 3 nylon Philip screws.
Once all of the bolts were off, I had the hard task of prying off the pan with a paint scraper and undo the pink, liquid nails-like gasket adhesive caulk that Mazda uses to glue on the pan.
It broke off all at once,- without warning, so I got about 1/2 quart of fluid splashed onto my face when it suddenly broke free! Luckily is was not that hot by that time, but it was a REAL frigging mess! After a shower , I cleaned out the inside of the pan with 4 paper towels.
It was dirty after 47K miles, and some clutch dust and dirt was at the bottom, so I made that clean. I was able to pull out the plastic filter, put in the new quite easily, the reverse the installation, using the gasket that came with the kit. Once you pull off the filter, another 4-5 ounces will also come out behind the filter. FYI
The new gasket has 4 tabs, so that you can align it as you place the pan back on. Put all 18 bolts back on with your 10mm socket. I then put 4 quarts of new M5 in there, put the plastic wheel well shield back on, and it is running well.
You went to a lot more trouble than I plan on but probably got most of the fluid short of a full-on dealer flush. Keeping a close eye on the fluid color/condition, I'll compensate for my laziness with a more frequent 20k-mile drain/refill interval. The idea of doing your procedure every 30k just isn't appealing to me, I'm afraid, but a filter change at the next interval (100,000 miles) will be a good idea. In the meanwhile I'll stay on this side of that tranny pan!
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