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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Car Audio & Electronics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Car Audio & Electronics - Tired of that stock stereo? Installing Nav units or mods to your current system? Come talk about it here. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Enjoy! Includes: Hertz High Energy 6.5" components Hertz Mille 10" sub Dayton 15" referance series sub Phoenix Gold MS2250 for front speakers Hertz EP1D Monoblock for rear sub Audison LRX 2 for front seat sub Audison Bit 10 (to hook up to OEM headunit, should have pics of it by the end of the week) B-Quite sound deadening in the doors ![]() ![]() ![]() Running the power wire to the back. ![]() The beginning of the fiberglass box to fit under the glove box. Right now it's just Styrofome wrapped in tuck tape, soon it will get glassed. ![]() ![]() Dayton Referance 15" sub ![]() ![]() Hertz ML2500 sub ![]() ![]() ![]() Some new wheels and tires to go with the stereo |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So you don't plan on having a passenger? Never seen a box in the passenger side foot well. Curious to see what you have in mind.
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Well as you can see there is still foot space, not allot mind you. Having the sub in the front sounds better than anything you have ever heard in a vehicle. The bass blends so well the the front speakers it's almost like it's all coming from one source. |
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Looks like a lot of used eBay shit components and hacked-up installs.
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Actually it's all out of my Sentra, none of its new. Sentra quit so a bought a MS3 instead.
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You do realize with the box there every time u blow a fuse your gona have to take the box out. My advice sell all that crappy the only decent name there was that audison amp. Buy some decent components and simple sub setup these cars don't need anything huge. You are just making your car slower Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10
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To each his own I have had this stuff for a number of years now and really like it, so I'm going to re-use it. |
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I foresee you hearing alot of cone noise with the sub facing toward you and in the front like that. There is a reason subs are generally in the back of a vehicle. Plus bass is omnidirectional so I doubt it will sound any better there than it would in the hatch as far as volume goes.
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You must not live near thieves. Have you priced a window and regulator yet? What about people with big feet? Ex: A man. You say to each his own but, with this logic I doubt you'll be owning a floorboard sub for long. Some cracky is going to bust your shit wide open and jack your shit. They tend to go for a sure deal, not bust windows and snoop around and hope for a find. Anyways, it is a different, bit unpractical but defiantly different. Good luck. |
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Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10
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Op put the sub in the back, like said before sub bass frequencies are not directional so wherever you put it it will fill what space it can. Also don't run the 10" and the 15" sub..... Not to mention you need to give the sound waves room to "expand" so to speak. Everyone knows most times you face the subs toward the back of the car, this is to help lower the peak frequency of the cabin to something closer to what the subwoofer naturally plays. (Like 30-50hz) If you are concerned about the "distant" sound of the sub you can model an enclosure in winisd just google it and try to keep your group delay below 10ms. But the biggest way to make your stereo sound good is just tuning. Get your gains set properly so there is no audible distortion, set your crossovers appropriately and get a sub enclosure to fit your listening needs. If you are looking for tight bass kicks look into a sealed enclosure or loud low bass look into a ported. Iirc that Dayton sub is not meant for ported enclosures but its been a while. |
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Yes do not run a 10 and 15 at the same time if you thought that sounded good you have never heard a good system. The reason behind this is say a 10 and a 15 are trying to play a 30hz tone. Even though they are replicating the same tone do to the larger cone area the 15 does not have to work as hard to create it. But the 10 does. It will sound extremely muddy because they in a way cancel each other out Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10
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Do it right once.....
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Lol, tough crowd here. Just my 2 cents, I would also do away with the 10 up-front. The Dayton HF is a great sub with a low-distortion motor, in the right box with the right power it should still sound clean and tight. HF series need HUGE boxes though. MS3's have solid plastic inner-door cards which require only a little extra sealing to get good mid-bass from your door speakers, again reducing the need for a front sub. If you absolutely want to run the front sub, make sure it and the 15 are crossed over separately to play different frequencies (ie: 15" 40hz-down, 10" 40hz-90hz) and time-align the 10 on your processor. But you have a 15 that can play high, and with good mid-basses and tuning you really don't need the front sub.
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You have a hatch. That's one of the best car setups you can ask for in terms of putting subs in the "trunk". Point them towards the back and let the sound waves reverberate off the back hatch. Personally, I prefer my chick in the seat next to me instead of subs.
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This seems like something that should be closed and moved to Mazda247. I agree with the fact that everyone has a right to express themselves with what they think is right for their car. However, if you were to look in the vast expanse on other custom installs on here, you would see a solid and proven knowledge base. Not all of us can afford new system parts, so I applaud you for trying to use what you can. However, if a stereo is import, make sure you start to save for better audio gear and upgrade as you go.
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Good choice on the hertz high energy component set. I'll be installing a set in my evo Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2 |
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2 things with audio you only want to do once. Speakers, and wiring. Everything else is pretty easy to access. Skimping on these will make your life suck.
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I will keep this thread updated for those who actually care. For those of you who don't care you can say what you wish, doesn't bother me. You can hate my choices in amps and speakers all you wan't. You can hate the fact that I'm putting a sub under the glovebox, I have done this a few times before and I have personally listened to many other cars with the same front sub setup. I love the way it sounds, you just can't get the same presentation of midbass from a sub in the trunk. The front speakers, front sub and rear sub will all be crossed over seperatley with an Audison Bit 10. |
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Welp. When you're ready to do a professional installation, you know where to find us.
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Anything above 70 to 80hz should be played by your mids. Aka 6.5" components. Then those will be crossed so only the highs are handled by the tweeters. Subs do do not play mid bass they play bass. We are trying to help you you are just to ignorant to listen. Have fun listening to mud Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10
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Hmm interestingly suspicious I once had an NA 3 hatch with a SQ setup... If you knew anything about car audio, as others have said running two different size subwoofers is retarded, your destroying the sound and you physically can't tune the system properly running it this way. As for all your equipment... Even though you have had it for a while and like it, there are a million different components subs and amps out there that you can buy new for less than the cost of a new set of wheels, and they will sound 10 times better than what you have now without being tuned... But good work I guess I'd just do some More research on what you has and the capabilities of this car with a SQ set up SMH Sub'd for later and more detailed response...
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Install is fail. That sub is a great sub, however it needs a shit-load of air space. I'll never understand people's concept of "bigger is better"... with a proper box you can make any driver sound proper. I also don't get why someone would invest their time(as obviously money isn't involved here with used equipment) and not invest in a good HU... I won't even comment on the bass location(s)
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Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10
__________________ Cobb AP - HTP 3.5" Intake -Cobb DP - Cobb CBE - Sure Track RMM - Mazdaspeed Coilovers - CorkSport Endlinks -CorkSport RSB -SPC Camber arms | |
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Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!
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I'm glad I looked at this post I needed a good laugh
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Wow... Just wow... This sounds like a horrible idea....Sell that 10 on Car Audio at CarAudio.com, get some legit 6.5'' and they will sound way better than that 10 in your glove box.. Better yet.. Trade it... While your on caraudio.com... read...a lot to learn there..
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![]() | | #29 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Brandon, FL
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Go ahead and mount all of your amps to the FMIC for maximum airflow....oh and don't forget the neons.... Sent from Cloud 9 |
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![]() | | #30 | ![]() |
| 500WHP INC ![]() Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Tampa, Fl
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I am running Memphis 6 x 8 on all 4 doors and seperate tweeters on all 4 doors all running off a 1000 watt Quantum Audio Amp, and I got 2x JL W1 12" subs in a 4 cubic sealed box facing the hatch powered by a JL G1700 700W Monoblock amp. 5 Farad cap. and yes my subs are in the trunk lawl.
__________________ 2008.5 White Pearl MS3 474HP/453TQ http://imageshack.us/a/img4/1726/virtualdyno129124thgear.jpg(with CF 1.01 it was more like 425HP) Mods: 3.5 Bar MAP,Wisecos 9:5:1,Pauter Rods,BSD,balanced rotational assembly, ARP Studs,Devils Own Meth Kit DO7 100%, Garret 3076R T3 w/Titanium turbo blanket, CP-E Safe Seals,CP-E FMIC,CP-E CDFP,Cobb AP,DCR VVT,ITTV24,Grounding Kit,Custom 3.5" Intake and MAF, Custom T3 Manifold w/38MM Tial EWG black cermaic coated with Titanium heat wrap,Custom 3" V-Band DP Titanium heat wrapped,Borla Catback,Fidanza 11LB Flywheel,Spec 3+ Clutch,cometic head gasket,ceramic heat barrier on IM, Sure TIG,V.C.T.S. Welded, Kenne Bell BAS,CP-e Triple gauge pod, Prosport Boost Gauge,Glowshift Wideband AFR gauge, Glowshift EGT gauge,Streetunit Engine Mounts ALL 3,PTP BSD-Windage Tray, So Many Little things i cant remember. |
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Groton, Connecticut
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Jesus Christ what a moron!
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Boatcop1 For This Useful Post: | radioflyer (10-23-2012) |
![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
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I think you guys have made your point. However the OP is correct with the bass imaging and integration with the front speakers. I had a Smartcar and I had Focal Polyglas components in the front with a custom JL 8" box under/inside the dashboard. It really DID sound great, the bass was not separated from the mid-bass in the doors. It sounded more like a set of nice tower speakers. By comparison, a sub way in back suffers from phase problems and a hell of a lot of delay problems and reverberation coming from way back there. The bass just never meshes when it comes from way back.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 www.greatfoxmusic.com |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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This is not a smart car, you did what you had to do. The OP lacks any and all logic in the design of his system, ignores the advise of other more experienced installers, and has abandoned all common sense. Unlike the OP many of us have lots of experience and have spent many hours researching testing different setups. A hatchback is probably the most optimal bass cannon anyone could ask for and the OP has decided that he is not going to take advantage of that and aggravate any passenger that gets in his car. I strongly suggest you make a proper introduction in the off topic lounge and walk away from your position on this.
__________________ - - Power: // K&N SRI // Cobb TIH // ETS TMIC // CNT Catted Turbo-Back // AT Internals // ITV-22's Tuning & Fuel: Cobb AP // 25% e85/91oct // Cobb EBCS // Stratified Tuned Suspension: Koni Yellows // Swift Spec R Springs // Hotchkis FSB // JBR RSB Mounts: CPE Stage 2 RMM // CPE PMM // CPE TMM Shifting: Corksport SSP // Corksport Shifter Assembly Bushings Wheels & Rubber: XXR 527 // Some crappy free tires at the moment How to make your car BSOD: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f13/carputer-105207 | |
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS! Hey OP good news! You're off the hook. Feel free to install any shitty system you want. greatFox; is our new bitch now. UNLEASH THE HOUNDS!!! Tapatalk LIKE A BOSS!
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 Black Mica HYPNOTIC TUNED, HTP full 3" intake system, HKS SSQV 4 full VTA, Corksport 65mm Racepipe, Cobb AP, Autotech Fuel Pump Internals, JBR 88duro RMM, JBR 88duro TMM, JBR 70duro PMM, JBR cylindrical shift knob, DDM tuning HID's lows and fogs, Resonator Delete. Last edited by GODspeed7; 11-13-2012 at 08:18 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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![]() | | #35 | ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Spec For This Useful Post: | silvapain (11-13-2012) |
![]() | | #36 | ![]() |
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Anyone who buys, owns, drives, sits in, stands near, or looks at a SmartCar immediately looses all credibility with me. Tapadatass
__________________ ATP GTX3071 IWG . 10.5:1 pistons . K1 Rods . Balance Shaft Delete . COBB AP . eBay Special Catless DP . Mazdaspeed Accessory CBE . OCC . Autolite XP5364 Spark Plugs . TRZ TMM . TRZ RMM . MDM SSP . JBR Shifter Bushings . JBR EGR Delete . KW V1 Coilovers . SPC Rear Camber Arms . EBC Yellowstuff Pads . Autotech HPFP internals . 3-Bar MAP Sensor . N2MB WOT Box . ACT 6-Puck Sprung Clutch w/ Streetlite Flywheel . Konig Milligrams 18x8.5 et45 with 245/40's . GrimmSpeed EBCS . Self-PnP IM with VTCS removed . TWM full replacement shifter with 3" extension . TS BPV SU Edition . CX Racing FMIC . HTP 3.5" Intake . Lots of ricer mods . Beans Above the Frank Build http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f541/beans-above-frank-build-115919/ | |
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| The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to silvapain For This Useful Post: | deadlandxtreme (11-14-2012), Deldran (11-14-2012), GODspeed7 (11-14-2012), radioflyer (11-14-2012), Rokusek (11-14-2012), Spec (11-14-2012), tddvrrn (11-15-2012) |
![]() | | #37 | ![]() |
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Wow. This is like High School. Sorry guys but High School was 20 years ago. I'm done with flame wars. Next time I want to post something I think might be useful, I will refrain.
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 www.greatfoxmusic.com |
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to greatFox For This Un-useful Post: | Mase (11-15-2012) |
![]() | | #38 | ![]() |
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__________________ - - Power: // K&N SRI // Cobb TIH // ETS TMIC // CNT Catted Turbo-Back // AT Internals // ITV-22's Tuning & Fuel: Cobb AP // 25% e85/91oct // Cobb EBCS // Stratified Tuned Suspension: Koni Yellows // Swift Spec R Springs // Hotchkis FSB // JBR RSB Mounts: CPE Stage 2 RMM // CPE PMM // CPE TMM Shifting: Corksport SSP // Corksport Shifter Assembly Bushings Wheels & Rubber: XXR 527 // Some crappy free tires at the moment How to make your car BSOD: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f13/carputer-105207 |
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![]() | | #39 | ![]() |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Albuquerque, NM
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OOOO! FORCE LIGHTNING COCKS!
__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 www.greatfoxmusic.com |
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to greatFox For This Un-useful Post: | Mase (11-15-2012) |
![]() | | #40 | ![]() |
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if someone is being gay towards you you just gotta out gay them, they grab your butt, you grab their penis and they will stop. if someone is being a dick to you, dont fight back, just bend over, pull pants down, and spread cheeks. and and say "give it to me" and stay in that position tell they are done... do these things and you will be fine on this forum, i got it the hard way
__________________ 2008 cosmic blue, h&r lowering springs, koni struts,HKS intake, rally armor mudflaps, rx8 wheals, stock everything els | |
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