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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Car Audio & Electronics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Car Audio & Electronics - Tired of that stock stereo? Installing Nav units or mods to your current system? Come talk about it here.


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 Old 10-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #1
 
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Default Speed 3 custom stereo

Here is where I will be posting the progress on the stereo that I'm putting in my car

Enjoy!

Includes:
Hertz High Energy 6.5" components
Hertz Mille 10" sub
Dayton 15" referance series sub
Phoenix Gold MS2250 for front speakers
Hertz EP1D Monoblock for rear sub
Audison LRX 2 for front seat sub
Audison Bit 10 (to hook up to OEM headunit, should have pics of it by the end of the week)
B-Quite sound deadening in the doors






Running the power wire to the back.


The beginning of the fiberglass box to fit under the glove box. Right now it's just Styrofome wrapped in tuck tape, soon it will get glassed.



Dayton Referance 15" sub



Hertz ML2500 sub





Some new wheels and tires to go with the stereo
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 Old 10-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by brandon3212 View Post
The beginning of the fiberglass box to fit under the glove box. Right now it's just Styrofome wrapped in tuck tape, soon it will get glassed.

So you don't plan on having a passenger? Never seen a box in the passenger side foot well. Curious to see what you have in mind.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 05:59 PM   #3
 
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Well as you can see there is still foot space, not allot mind you.

Having the sub in the front sounds better than anything you have ever heard in a vehicle. The bass blends so well the the front speakers it's almost like it's all coming from one source.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 06:35 PM   #4
 
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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:02 PM   #5
 
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Looks like a lot of used eBay shit components and hacked-up installs.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:10 PM   #6
 
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Actually it's all out of my Sentra, none of its new. Sentra quit so a bought a MS3 instead.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Mi06Speed6 View Post
So you don't plan on having a passenger? Never seen a box in the passenger side foot well. Curious to see what you have in mind.
I have seen a lot of jank ass installs before but that sucks. I am all for big stereos and used to complete in meca but you are ruining your car.

You do realize with the box there every time u blow a fuse your gona have to take the box out.

My advice sell all that crappy the only decent name there was that audison amp. Buy some decent components and simple sub setup these cars don't need anything huge. You are just making your car slower

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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:18 PM   #8
 
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To each his own

I have had this stuff for a number of years now and really like it, so I'm going to re-use it.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:38 PM   #9
 
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I foresee you hearing alot of cone noise with the sub facing toward you and in the front like that. There is a reason subs are generally in the back of a vehicle. Plus bass is omnidirectional so I doubt it will sound any better there than it would in the hatch as far as volume goes.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:40 PM   #10
 
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You must not live near thieves. Have you priced a window and regulator yet?
What about people with big feet? Ex: A man.

You say to each his own but, with this logic I doubt you'll be owning a floorboard sub for long. Some cracky is going to bust your shit wide open and jack your shit. They tend to go for a sure deal, not bust windows and snoop around and hope for a find.

Anyways, it is a different, bit unpractical but defiantly different. Good luck.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 07:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by greenespeed View Post
I foresee you hearing alot of cone noise with the sub facing toward you and in the front like that. There is a reason subs are generally in the back of a vehicle. Plus bass is omnidirectional so I doubt it will sound any better there than it would in the hatch as far as volume goes.
I did a lot of testing with hatchbacks like ours and sportier hatches. For hatches like ours we found to get the most SPL facing toward the hatch as close as you can. Ever car is different but I would at least put the sub in the hatch you will get much better sound quality that way and wont annoy your passengers

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 Old 10-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #12
 
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Op put the sub in the back, like said before sub bass frequencies are not directional so wherever you put it it will fill what space it can.
Also don't run the 10" and the 15" sub.....
Not to mention you need to give the sound waves room to "expand" so to speak. Everyone knows most times you face the subs toward the back of the car, this is to help lower the peak frequency of the cabin to something closer to what the subwoofer naturally plays. (Like 30-50hz)
If you are concerned about the "distant" sound of the sub you can model an enclosure in winisd just google it and try to keep your group delay below 10ms. But the biggest way to make your stereo sound good is just tuning. Get your gains set properly so there is no audible distortion, set your crossovers appropriately and get a sub enclosure to fit your listening needs.

If you are looking for tight bass kicks look into a sealed enclosure or loud low bass look into a ported.
Iirc that Dayton sub is not meant for ported enclosures but its been a while.
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 Old 10-08-2012, 08:43 PM   #13
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Yes do not run a 10 and 15 at the same time if you thought that sounded good you have never heard a good system.

The reason behind this is say a 10 and a 15 are trying to play a 30hz tone. Even though they are replicating the same tone do to the larger cone area the 15 does not have to work as hard to create it. But the 10 does. It will sound extremely muddy because they in a way cancel each other out

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 Old 10-08-2012, 08:53 PM   #14
 
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Do it right once.....
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 Old 10-09-2012, 07:22 AM   #15
 
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Lol, tough crowd here. Just my 2 cents, I would also do away with the 10 up-front. The Dayton HF is a great sub with a low-distortion motor, in the right box with the right power it should still sound clean and tight. HF series need HUGE boxes though. MS3's have solid plastic inner-door cards which require only a little extra sealing to get good mid-bass from your door speakers, again reducing the need for a front sub. If you absolutely want to run the front sub, make sure it and the 15 are crossed over separately to play different frequencies (ie: 15" 40hz-down, 10" 40hz-90hz) and time-align the 10 on your processor. But you have a 15 that can play high, and with good mid-basses and tuning you really don't need the front sub.
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 Old 10-09-2012, 08:09 AM   #16
 
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You have a hatch. That's one of the best car setups you can ask for in terms of putting subs in the "trunk". Point them towards the back and let the sound waves reverberate off the back hatch.

Personally, I prefer my chick in the seat next to me instead of subs.
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 Old 10-09-2012, 08:18 AM   #17
 
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This seems like something that should be closed and moved to Mazda247. I agree with the fact that everyone has a right to express themselves with what they think is right for their car. However, if you were to look in the vast expanse on other custom installs on here, you would see a solid and proven knowledge base.
Not all of us can afford new system parts, so I applaud you for trying to use what you can. However, if a stereo is import, make sure you start to save for better audio gear and upgrade as you go.
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 Old 10-09-2012, 08:32 AM   #18
 
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Good choice on the hertz high energy component set.
I'll be installing a set in my evo

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 Old 10-09-2012, 08:59 AM   #19
 
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2 things with audio you only want to do once. Speakers, and wiring. Everything else is pretty easy to access. Skimping on these will make your life suck.
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 Old 10-09-2012, 04:04 PM   #20
 
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I will keep this thread updated for those who actually care. For those of you who don't care you can say what you wish, doesn't bother me.

You can hate my choices in amps and speakers all you wan't. You can hate the fact that I'm putting a sub under the glovebox, I have done this a few times before and I have personally listened to many other cars with the same front sub setup. I love the way it sounds, you just can't get the same presentation of midbass from a sub in the trunk.

The front speakers, front sub and rear sub will all be crossed over seperatley with an Audison Bit 10.
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 Old 10-09-2012, 04:28 PM   #21
 
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Welp. When you're ready to do a professional installation, you know where to find us.
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 Old 10-09-2012, 04:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by brandon3212 View Post
I will keep this thread updated for those who actually care. For those of you who don't care you can say what you wish, doesn't bother me.

You can hate my choices in amps and speakers all you wan't. You can hate the fact that I'm putting a sub under the glovebox, I have done this a few times before and I have personally listened to many other cars with the same front sub setup. I love the way it sounds, you just can't get the same presentation of midbass from a sub in the trunk.

The front speakers, front sub and rear sub will all be crossed over seperatley with an Audison Bit 10.
What exactly do you call mid bass.

Anything above 70 to 80hz should be played by your mids. Aka 6.5" components. Then those will be crossed so only the highs are handled by the tweeters. Subs do do not play mid bass they play bass.

We are trying to help you you are just to ignorant to listen.

Have fun listening to mud

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 Old 10-09-2012, 05:05 PM   #23
 
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Hmm interestingly suspicious I once had an NA 3 hatch with a SQ setup... If you knew anything about car audio, as others have said running two different size subwoofers is retarded, your destroying the sound and you physically can't tune the system properly running it this way. As for all your equipment... Even though you have had it for a while and like it, there are a million different components subs and amps out there that you can buy new for less than the cost of a new set of wheels, and they will sound 10 times better than what you have now without being tuned... But good work I guess I'd just do some
More research on what you has and the capabilities of this car with a SQ set up

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Sub'd for later and more detailed response...
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 Old 10-09-2012, 05:47 PM   #24
 
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Install is fail.

That sub is a great sub, however it needs a shit-load of air space. I'll never understand people's concept of "bigger is better"... with a proper box you can make any driver sound proper.

I also don't get why someone would invest their time(as obviously money isn't involved here with used equipment) and not invest in a good HU...

I won't even comment on the bass location(s)
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 Old 10-09-2012, 06:22 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by helmetface View Post
Install is fail.

That sub is a great sub, however it needs a shit-load of air space. I'll never understand people's concept of "bigger is better"... with a proper box you can make any driver sound proper.

I also don't get why someone would invest their time(as obviously money isn't involved here with used equipment) and not invest in a good HU...

I won't even comment on the bass location(s)
Thank you!!! Someone who understands what a box can do.

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 Old 10-09-2012, 07:06 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by brandon3212 View Post
I will keep this thread updated for those who actually care. For those of you who don't care you can say what you wish, doesn't bother me.

You can hate my choices in amps and speakers all you wan't. You can hate the fact that I'm putting a sub under the glovebox, I have done this a few times before and I have personally listened to many other cars with the same front sub setup. I love the way it sounds, you just can't get the same presentation of midbass from a sub in the trunk.

The front speakers, front sub and rear sub will all be crossed over seperatley with an Audison Bit 10.
I think you should just go to mazdas247>>> I don't think anyone here wants you to update anymore...


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 Old 10-23-2012, 05:26 PM   #27
 
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I'm glad I looked at this post I needed a good laugh
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 Old 10-23-2012, 06:29 PM   #28
 
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Wow... Just wow... This sounds like a horrible idea....Sell that 10 on Car Audio at CarAudio.com, get some legit 6.5'' and they will sound way better than that 10 in your glove box.. Better yet.. Trade it... While your on caraudio.com... read...a lot to learn there..
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 Old 10-23-2012, 07:03 PM   #29
 
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Go ahead and mount all of your amps to the FMIC for maximum airflow....oh and don't forget the neons....

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 Old 10-23-2012, 07:19 PM   #30
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I am running Memphis 6 x 8 on all 4 doors and seperate tweeters on all 4 doors all running off a 1000 watt Quantum Audio Amp, and I got 2x JL W1 12" subs in a 4 cubic sealed box facing the hatch powered by a JL G1700 700W Monoblock amp. 5 Farad cap. and yes my subs are in the trunk lawl.
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 Old 10-23-2012, 07:29 PM   #31
 
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Jesus Christ what a moron!
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 Old 11-13-2012, 07:34 PM   #32
 
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I think you guys have made your point.

However the OP is correct with the bass imaging and integration with the front speakers. I had a Smartcar and I had Focal Polyglas components in the front with a custom JL 8" box under/inside the dashboard. It really DID sound great, the bass was not separated from the mid-bass in the doors. It sounded more like a set of nice tower speakers. By comparison, a sub way in back suffers from phase problems and a hell of a lot of delay problems and reverberation coming from way back there. The bass just never meshes when it comes from way back.
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 Old 11-13-2012, 07:49 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by greatFox View Post
I think you guys have made your point.

However the OP is correct with the bass imaging and integration with the front speakers. I had a Smartcar and I had Focal Polyglas components in the front with a custom JL 8" box under/inside the dashboard. It really DID sound great, the bass was not separated from the mid-bass in the doors. It sounded more like a set of nice tower speakers. By comparison, a sub way in back suffers from phase problems and a hell of a lot of delay problems and reverberation coming from way back there. The bass just never meshes when it comes from way back.
I wont groan you because it's your first post.

This is not a smart car, you did what you had to do.

The OP lacks any and all logic in the design of his system, ignores the advise of other more experienced installers, and has abandoned all common sense. Unlike the OP many of us have lots of experience and have spent many hours researching testing different setups. A hatchback is probably the most optimal bass cannon anyone could ask for and the OP has decided that he is not going to take advantage of that and aggravate any passenger that gets in his car.

I strongly suggest you make a proper introduction in the off topic lounge and walk away from your position on this.
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 Old 11-13-2012, 08:18 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by greatFox View Post
I think you guys have made your point.

However the OP is correct with the bass imaging and integration with the front speakers. I had a Smartcar and I had Focal Polyglas components in the front with a custom JL 8" box under/inside the dashboard. It really DID sound great, the bass was not separated from the mid-bass in the doors. It sounded more like a set of nice tower speakers. By comparison, a sub way in back suffers from phase problems and a hell of a lot of delay problems and reverberation coming from way back there. The bass just never meshes when it comes from way back.
I stopped giving a fuck and you lost all credibility as soon as you mentioned, smartcar. Also I don't think your first post should be telling us that " we have made our point" I don't think you understand how this forum works. OP says or does dumb shit, we attack and don't stop until either OP gets banned, or takes it like a man and lets the animals (us) lose interest. I suggest you do less posting and more reading so you know how this forum operates. This site isn't all rainbows, sunshine, sugar cookies and handjobs. Blood is shed on a daily basis.


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 Old 11-13-2012, 08:26 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by greatFox View Post
op is an idiot and I had gay sex in a smart car.
Fixed.
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 Old 11-13-2012, 10:47 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by greatFox View Post
I think you guys have made your point.

However the OP is correct with the bass imaging and integration with the front speakers. I had a Smartcar and I had Focal Polyglas components in the front with a custom JL 8" box under/inside the dashboard. It really DID sound great, the bass was not separated from the mid-bass in the doors. It sounded more like a set of nice tower speakers. By comparison, a sub way in back suffers from phase problems and a hell of a lot of delay problems and reverberation coming from way back there. The bass just never meshes when it comes from way back.
I stopped reading at "Smartcar".

Anyone who buys, owns, drives, sits in, stands near, or looks at a SmartCar immediately looses all credibility with me.


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 Old 11-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #37
 
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Wow.
This is like High School.

Sorry guys but High School was 20 years ago. I'm done with flame wars.

Next time I want to post something I think might be useful, I will refrain.
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 Old 11-14-2012, 06:37 PM   #38
 
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 Old 11-14-2012, 06:47 PM   #39
 
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OOOO! FORCE LIGHTNING COCKS!
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 Old 11-14-2012, 06:49 PM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by greatFox View Post
Wow.
This is like High School.

Sorry guys but High School was 20 years ago. I'm done with flame wars.

Next time I want to post something I think might be useful, I will refrain.

if someone is being gay towards you you just gotta out gay them, they grab your butt, you grab their penis and they will stop.

if someone is being a dick to you, dont fight back, just bend over, pull pants down, and spread cheeks. and and say "give it to me" and stay in that position tell they are done... do these things and you will be fine on this forum, i got it the hard way
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