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 Old 09-15-2014, 11:52 PM   #1
 
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Default Mazdaspeed Swapped 1999 NB Miata

Hi guys. About five months ago I picked up my first "sports car." A 1999 Mazda Miata with an engine out of a Mazdaspeed Miata. Here's what the ad said when I bought it:


Anyways, it didn't take me long to figure out that some of this shit was wrong. Examples: 15x7 wheels were actually 15x8. Plus it was on Bilstein suspension.
Also some stuff not listed, like the clutch. Still have no idea what it is but it is a tricky pedal. Stalled it for weeks (first manual) before I finally got the hang of it and I still mess it up sometimes.
Anyways, here's a picture from the first day(sorry for potato cam):

And just hanging out with some friends:

http://scontent-a.cdninstagram.com/h...27843805_n.jpg

Couple of other random pictures, lazer cut a shitty hoonigan stecil and plasti-dipped it because why not right?:




Oversteered into some brush and bottomed out the front bumper, breaking the fiber glass at the bolting points near the drivers side headlight. Great. And bought some Dunlop Direzza DZ102's because the RS-3's on it were almost all showing some wire. Went from 225 to 205 width so they made it look a bit funky. Also threw on some vinyl eye lids because so aggresive actually started to look pretty bad ha:


Cleaned up the hoonigan stencil, bought new wheels (Enkei J-Speed 15x8 +25) and tires and drilled some holes to zip tie my bumper on. Actually looking decent.



Got a "chopped" fingers sticker and a custom plate, and got featured by Mighty Car Mods, which was pretty awesome:



Took the bumper off because it was too low to get on ramps. Was held on with like three bolts and a pointless rivet I had to break. threw a water bottle in the tow hook for jdm sex appeal



Boost gauge action:



And autocross because turbo miata. that electrical tape still has a faint print on the plasti dip. Won't come out. dip sucks anyways



Aaaaaaaaaaand I wrecked it. Because 18 years old, inexperienced, 2400lb car, and over 200 RWHP. I know. stupid. It was wet outside and I was attempting to apply the concept of throttling through a corner. Realized I was going too fast, hit the brakes. No ABS. Brakes locked up and understeered into a curb.



Sold the rotas and dunlops to help pay for repairs. Actually went to a local autocrosser.



On the trailer to get repaired..



Took a long time, but finally back on the road:



Yes it looks beat, no that duct tape wasn't actually serving a purpose.



Here's the engine bay after fixing it up a little more. Mishimoto radiator, Fab9tuning Stg.1 intercooler, new radiator mounts, new tow hooks because the others were bent. And a few other little things to get it running



So basically, after getting everything in to get it running again, we started it up and it gave a real lumpy idle, going between 1500-2000 in a pulsating sort of way. It had been sitting for over a month so we determined this was idle air control valve. We test drove it and it was hitting full boost. After a bit of driving the lumpy idle went away. Car was back to normal. But, weird thing here. I had a line going from my waste gate actuator to my hot side intercooler piping. It wasn't really connected though. it was just shoved in a hole with a rubber grommet "holding" it in. My mechanic/friend rerouted the line to a different part of the piping and was going to tap and plug the hole where the line was previously routed, but he didn't have a tap to fit the hole. So, just so I could drive home, we taped the hole with duct tape. yeah. bad idea. Anyways, after driving around for a while, hitting boost and whatnot, I start noticing idle air problems. Then, gradually, it got to the point where it was only hitting about 5-6 lbs of boost. After a few days I realized the duct tape had blew out. So I used electrical tape, it would last a couple of days for daily driving (this is my only car) until it blew out and I could just replace it. It would actually hold boost for a bit. But it never went back up to full boost. Only about 7lbs. Even when that hose wasn't in the rubber "grommet" before it was rerouted, it would still hit full boost, i'd just have idle air problems. I ended up buying a tap and bolt to fill the hole, then tried wrapping it in electrical tape because the fitment wasn't perfect. It'll hold boost for a while but still won't hit full boost. I actually hit 9lbs the other day though, which is strange. I found an OEM replacement for the intercooler piping so I'm finally going to get rid of this ghetto-tape fix and just get it replaced when my paycheck comes in. I don't think that's what will solve my boost leak though, so I need to find that. It may be at my bypass valve, as the OEM mazdaspeed miata ones are leaky. Anyways! Enough of that, here's some more flattering pictures:







I also finally found a bumper to fit my car, a 10ae front bumper. Which should be tomorrow. So I'll update with pics of that installed, here's a teaser though:



All that said, I know it's nothing amazing, and yeah it could use some things. I'm trying my best but it's not super easy being an 18 year old who just dove into this thing, plus I work at a restaurant 5 days a week and go to college 3. I just started waiting tables and I get paid to go to college, so the miata should be doing a lot better soon, but don't expect super frequent updates. This is just to log my progress.

That said, here's some future plans:
-Hard top
-Respray factory Twilight Blue
-Fix the small dents (obv before paint)
-Maybe a 5mm front spacer and 10mm rear
-DIYPNP ecu
-Bigger injectors so I can turn up the boost to 14psi, I know a guy with the same swap that has done it with injectors and a tune. I'm already at 12.
-Bucket seats and harness
-Upgraded brakes
-Hankook RS3 v2's in a 225

Thanks for looking! Expect some updates.

I'll leave you with this shot from today

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 Old 09-17-2014, 11:51 AM   #2
 
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Now donate brownie faggot. I think you've already met some of the locals?
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:01 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post
Now donate brownie faggot. I think you've already met some of the locals?
I get paid tomorrow, I will then. As it stands, I have about a dollar to my name, ha. I don't even know what brownie means. Noob to the forums I guess? And yes, a few. I need to try to get a little more active on this forum but I don't own a speed3 or 6 so I don't really know where to even post lol. Besides here, obviously.
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:11 PM   #4
 
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You're name is in brown; when you donate, you become green. We're all assholes here but try not to take it personally; for a kid you're doing fine so far.

I wonder how hard it would be to swap a DISI in a Miata.....or is that even possible? Justin has 2 spare engines now.
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:16 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post
You're name is in brown; when you donate, you become green. We're all assholes here but try not to take it personally; for a kid you're doing fine so far.

I wonder how hard it would be to swap a DISI in a Miata.....or is that even possible? Justin has 2 spare engines now.
I see, and I'm not new to internet forums, I've dealt with all the assholes plenty of times, it doesn't get to me. And I haven't seen it done. But it sounds pretty sweet. Here's a local miata for $1000 that would be a good candidate 1990 mazda miata
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:28 PM   #6
 
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Welcome.

You sure all that tape your putting on is getting blown out and not sucked in to the turbo...,.
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:31 PM   #7
 
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Tape was post-turbo, on the IC piping right? So no chance of it getting back to the turbo.
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:34 PM   #8
 
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Oh the reading fail....my bad. Guess that's what I get for just skimming the wall of text
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 Old 09-17-2014, 12:41 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Mastertrixter View Post
Welcome.

You sure all that tape your putting on is getting blown out and not sucked in to the turbo...,.
Thanks! And yes, I'm sure. It doesn't actually blow out, just kind of loosens the adhesive to where a hole with eventually form for boost to creep out. Definitely not my preferred method of holding boost in... but like I said before, I get paid tomorrow. Should be able to order a replacement OEM pipe. Found one here: 2004 Mazda Miata Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts

Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post
Tape was post-turbo, on the IC piping right? So no chance of it getting back to the turbo.
That too. It would go into the intercooler if anything. But it blows out, not sucks in
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/

Last edited by TurboKitty; 09-17-2014 at 12:41 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 09-17-2014, 01:05 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Thanks! And yes, I'm sure. It doesn't actually blow out, just kind of loosens the adhesive to where a hole with eventually form for boost to creep out. Definitely not my preferred method of holding boost in... but like I said before, I get paid tomorrow. Should be able to order a replacement OEM pipe. Found one here: 2004 Mazda Miata Parts - Discount factory (OEM) Mazda parts and accessories at Park Mazda OEM Parts



That too. It would go into the intercooler if anything. But it blows out, not sucks in
Yea I failed at reading the op.

I'm totally jealous though. I would love to L's swap a miata
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BNR s3 v2
snow performance wmi
dammon occ, egr deletes
htp 3"
cx piping with tr6 core
ebay dp
corksport catback
autotech internals
grimmspeed 3port
turbosmart bpv
3bar
jbp ssp, weight, bushings, rmm, and rsb

koni oranges with road magnet springs
motegi mr116 18x8 +45

Powered by PURPLE DRANK
350/360 vdyno cf 1.01 on 91 pump only
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 Old 09-29-2014, 05:56 PM   #11
 
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hey look a bumper! needs a lot of work done to it but the body shop should take car of that when i get the car painted hopefully hard top next week!
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 09-29-2014, 06:03 PM   #12
 
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You should lose the NB2 tupperwear (sideskirts). NB1's look so much better with the lines of the NB. Then get a NB2 bumper, MSM front & rear lip.
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 Old 09-29-2014, 06:28 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
You should lose the NB2 tupperwear (sideskirts). NB1's look so much better with the lines of the NB. Then get a NB2 bumper, MSM front & rear lip.
Ah man, I actually love the sideskirts. Although I used to love my fiberglass bumper until I got this one... Wouldn't I need NB2 headlights to put on a nb2 bumper? If I end up doing all of that, it'll probably be a bit more done the road. need to spend my money elsewhere for now.
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 Old 10-01-2014, 12:41 PM   #14
 
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Dumping a couple of links for things I'll need in the future here...

Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Upgrades for Mazdaspeed : Mazdaspeed complete throttle body inlet kit

Miata Race alignment

Prothane Urethane Bushing Kit-- for Miata
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 10-01-2014, 01:20 PM   #15
 
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I might be getting a Miata project car soon; will be referring here occasionally.
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 Old 10-01-2014, 01:23 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post
I might be getting a Miata project car soon; will be referring here occasionally.
Sweet! I look forward to seeing it. Our local car group is always expanding with miatas just had a guy pick one up yesterday! We're up to like 5 or 6 in hot springs
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 10-01-2014, 01:49 PM   #17
 
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I've been reading so many Miata threads that I think I have to have one.
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 Old 10-01-2014, 10:43 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by BlackFlag View Post
I've been reading so many Miata threads that I think I have to have one.
do it!! everybody needs a miata, I think
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 10-03-2014, 12:09 AM   #19
 
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got that pipe replaced! no more shitty tape. and I know, my engine bay needs to be cleaned up a bit

I'm still leaking boost but not from there and the car is running a lot better. hopefully this saturday a friend and I will locate the source of the leak. Also going to re-wire my a/f gauge since that's not reading properly.
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 10-03-2014, 01:11 PM   #20
 
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Are you still running the OEM throttle body inlet pipe from the IC? The sensor on the backside of that rubber piping likes to rip, causing a boost leak. BEGi makes a legit replacement TBI.
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 Old 10-03-2014, 01:28 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
Are you still running the OEM throttle body inlet pipe from the IC? The sensor on the backside of that rubber piping likes to rip, causing a boost leak. BEGi makes a legit replacement TBI.
Yeah I am. I was looking at a Flyin Miata replacement. Should be about $250 with a BPV
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 Old 10-03-2014, 03:20 PM   #22
 
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If the stock BPV is working, no reason to run an aftermarket. Save your coin, get the BEGi TBI. I like FM, but they charge way too much for shit. Completely unnecessary.
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 Old 10-05-2014, 08:33 PM   #23
 
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Little update. Hitting full boost @ 11psi right now, thanks to my friend having a spare $10 boost controller laying around. I guess my wastegate wasn't getting an accurate reading. She pulls really hard now, feels great. Also scored some racing beat adjustable end links for my rear off a friend, hopefully will install those tomorrow. Anyways, here's another picture of my car, just because

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 Old 10-06-2014, 07:10 PM   #24
 
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so my friend bought this miata for 1600 (blown headgasket, auto, 91)

and sold me the hardtop for 800



I love it so far

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 Old 10-06-2014, 09:12 PM   #25
 
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Fucker. That's the one I was going to look at, but I had to work all weekend.
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 Old 10-06-2014, 09:17 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post
Fucker. That's the one I was going to look at, but I had to work all weekend.
Lol my bad. Its too bad its an auto but he's paying 800 and with a little work he'll get at least 2 out of it. And I got the hard top out of it so I'm happy.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 07:43 AM   #27
 
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Auto's are extremely easy to swap over to manual on rwd. Not a big deal at all.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 07:46 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
Auto's are extremely easy to swap over to manual on rwd. Not a big deal at all.
I don't think he's even going to mess with swapping it. Just fix, sell, and hope for some decent profit. May give to his girlfriend to drive since she's rocking a p.t. cruiser currently. I'm sure he'd swap it if it was a personal car but he doesn't need any more cars as is, hah.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 08:20 AM   #29
 
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Yay another turbo miata. So when are you throwing a bigger turbo on there? lol.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 08:23 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Tyhackman15 View Post
Yay another turbo miata. So when are you throwing a bigger turbo on there? lol.
Probably will be a long time if I do. I hear stuff starts going out after about 250hp, which I'm probably about almost there (crank horsepower, not wheel) so if I do go bigger turbo I'll need to start upgrading a lot more. Need to focus on other things for now.. Bodywork/paint, brakes, tires, engine management.. So, a while. Lol
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 Old 10-08-2014, 08:25 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Probably will be a long time if I do. I hear stuff starts going out after about 250hp, which I'm probably about almost there (crank horsepower, not wheel) so if I do go bigger turbo I'll need to start upgrading a lot more. Need to focus on other things for now.. Bodywork/paint, brakes, tires, engine management.. So, a while. Lol
I'm at 220rwhp (tuned on the dyno) with the stock internals, etc... been abused at the track for 20k miles with no issue yet. You should be good to about 250rwhp as long as it's a solid tune.

that being said, I have no clue what the stock MSM turbo can handle, I thought it was out of breathe around 200rwhp but I must be wrong.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 08:29 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by Tyhackman15 View Post
I'm at 220rwhp (tuned on the dyno) with the stock internals, etc... been abused at the track for 20k miles with no issue yet. You should be good to about 250rwhp as long as it's a solid tune.

that being said, I have no clue what the stock MSM turbo can handle, I thought it was out of breathe around 200rwhp but I must be wrong.
Maybe I got that wrong then, must be 250 wheel when stuff starts going out. I haven't put mine on a dyno. Making 11lbs so I estimate around 210-220 rear wheel. I had it at 12 and it was fine. There's a guy who autocrosses with a mazdaspeed swap on stock turbo and I'm pretty sure he's making 14lbs. Don't really know the limits of the turbo, but still, if I upgrade turbo it'll be after I upgrade a bunch of other stuff, hah.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 08:39 AM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Maybe I got that wrong then, must be 250 wheel when stuff starts going out. I haven't put mine on a dyno. Making 11lbs so I estimate around 210-220 rear wheel. I had it at 12 and it was fine. There's a guy who autocrosses with a mazdaspeed swap on stock turbo and I'm pretty sure he's making 14lbs. Don't really know the limits of the turbo, but still, if I upgrade turbo it'll be after I upgrade a bunch of other stuff, hah.
Yea with a stock bottom end it's better to keep the turbo small to resist temptation. The fact that my turbo (2560r) is capable of 300whp is awesome, but I know it would go boom..so I have to resist the urge to have more fun lol.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 08:43 AM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by Tyhackman15 View Post
Yea with a stock bottom end it's better to keep the turbo small to resist temptation. The fact that my turbo (2560r) is capable of 300whp is awesome, but I know it would go boom..so I have to resist the urge to have more fun lol.
Hah. I know a guy with a turbo Miata in the same situation. I always feel like it's better be able to have a "too much" option rather than topping out. But I'm pretty content with the power I'm making now just want to get a standalone to make it run better and get all the fun options like launch control
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 Old 10-08-2014, 10:21 AM   #35
 
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Stock IHI turbo breathes fire @ 10psi, 12-15psi w/ meth is not uncommon. You would be 200whp w/ 12psi & a catless DP. With the OEM DP, you won't have over 190whp @ 10psi.

The BP4W can handle 250-280whp before shit starts going wrong. @chance91; had over 290whp on his MSM for a long time.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 11:51 AM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
Stock IHI turbo breathes fire @ 10psi, 12-15psi w/ meth is not uncommon. You would be 200whp w/ 12psi & a catless DP. With the OEM DP, you won't have over 190whp @ 10psi.

The BP4W can handle 250-280whp before shit starts going wrong. @chance91; had over 290whp on his MSM for a long time.
Okay, good to know. I have this downpipe and cat http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=06-58300 and the rest of the exhaust as well. So I'd be good to run 12lbs and make 200ish whp?
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 Old 10-08-2014, 01:28 PM   #37
 
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yay more car pics. Tried to install my rear end links that my friend gave me and I guess something snapped inside. Gotta wait until I can get a saw and cut the bolts off now or get a rear sway bar. Probably gonna do the latter since I need one anyways. Had some problems with boost earlier today. Set at 11 and I hit 13 getting on the bypass in 4th. WOT in 4th again and I hit 11lbs and slowly declining. Went down to 10 then I let off. Think this is the culprit. so I ordered a forge bypass valve. Hopefully that helps.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 01:28 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Okay, good to know. I have this downpipe and cat Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Upgrades for Mazdaspeed : Downpipe/catalytic converter for Mazdaspeed MX-5 and the rest of the exhaust as well. So I'd be good to run 12lbs and make 200ish whp?
The OEM TBI won't allow you to run 12psi, but yeah, I would monitor AFR if you don't have a TPS resistor soldered in line. You are already running lean from 3k-ish (full spool) to 5k RPM when the ECU finally switches to open loop, and gives you fuel. Toyota 321cc injectors are a good band aid for this too.

With that DP, you will get boost creep in colder weather <50 degrees, unless your wastegate inlet was ported.
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'04 MSM: Ohlins DFV//15x9 TRM C3M//FM FMIC//AEM SRI//Custom 3" TBE//BossFrog Clearview//Bride Gias II//Autokonexion CF Trunk v2
'94 M Edition MX5: R-package Bilsteins//15x6.5 Konig Helium//Torsen LSD//Roadstersport Race NC exhaust//MSM RSB//OEM Hardtop
'06 MS6: COBB SRI/TIP//18x8 Enkei Imola//TooLateTuning Springs//SPC Balljoints//JBR RMM//Techna-Fit SS Clutch line
Bimmer Challenge & Global Time Attack Project
'99 BMW 328is: KW Variant3 w/ Vorshlag plates//AKG M3 Adj. Endlinks w/ 95 M3 FSB//18x9.5 +35 Advanti Optimo w/ 245/35 Hankook Z214 (C51)//E46 330i Front w/ Hawk DTC60 & E46 328i Rear w/ Hawk DTC50 & Hard Motorsport Ducting//Turner CTSCC Camber Arms//SLR Adjustable Lollipops//3 clutch 3.73 LSD//Welded 4 Point Gusseted X Brace Rollbar + Harness Bar//Sparco Ergo II w/ 6 point Schroth Clubman//Garagistic Delrin Motor & Trans Mounts, Rear Subframe, & Differential Bushings//OEM M3 Rear Subframe Reinforcement & Rear Trailing Arm Pocket Reinforcement//Z3 Steering Rack & Garagistic DSSR SSK//UUC Stage 2 Flywheel & M5 Clutch//S52 Camshafts w/ 7100 redline//M50 Intake Manifold//S50 Oilpan w/ VAC Baffle & Oil Filter Housing//CSF Radiator & Expansion Tank w/ Spal fan//3.5" MAF & Dinan CAI//#24 lb Injectors//VAC Fuel Starvation Kit//Active Autowerke GenII Header-back//OBD1 M52B28 w/ 230+whp
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 Old 10-08-2014, 01:31 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
The OEM TBI won't allow you to run 12psi, but yeah, I would monitor AFR if you don't have a TPS resistor soldered in line. You are already running lean from 3k-ish (full spool) to 5k RPM when the ECU finally switches to open loop, and gives you fuel. Toyota 321cc injectors are a good band aid for this too.

With that DP, you will get boost creep in colder weather <50 degrees, unless your wastegate inlet was ported.
Okay right on. I'll probably order that begi TBI soon. I know I'm running rich right now because I have fuel coming out of my exhaust and I'm throwing the engine code PO420. My AFR gauge is not reading right currently... Going to have my friend help me rewire it this weekend so I'll know just how rich I am running.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 02:43 PM   #40
 
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so much prettier
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1999 Miata - 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata engine <60k, Enkei J-Speed 15x8+25, 205/50/15 Kumho Ecsta, Bilsteins with Eibach Springs, Racing Beat rear endlinks, Torsen LSD, Hawk HP+/HPS, FM full exhaust, FM intake, Begi TBI, Forge bypass valve, Fab9 Tuning IC, Mishimoto radiator, JR fuel management, AEM Uego wideband, GlowShift Boost gauge, Still Hood shift knob, Pioneer head-unit, Harddog rollbar, Hardtop, NB2 sideskirts, 10AE front bumper, Machined lip, NXS manual boost controller, 949 racing lug nuts, 949 racing tow hooks, 949 racing alignment, Multi-colored

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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