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 Old 10-08-2014, 03:27 PM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Okay right on. I'll probably order that begi TBI soon. I know I'm running rich right now because I have fuel coming out of my exhaust and I'm throwing the engine code PO420. My AFR gauge is not reading right currently... Going to have my friend help me rewire it this weekend so I'll know just how rich I am running.
You need to add a spacer/defouler to the DP between the rear o2. That has the best chance of fixing that code. Under normal circumstances, those 265cc stock injectors should never put out enough fuel to run that rich. I imagine the back firing, and flames coming out the exhaust are pretty nice though.
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 Old 10-08-2014, 03:38 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
You need to add a spacer/defouler to the DP between the rear o2. That has the best chance of fixing that code. Under normal circumstances, those 265cc stock injectors should never put out enough fuel to run that rich. I imagine the back firing, and flames coming out the exhaust are pretty nice though.
Okay sweet. Yeah its pretty rich. Makes some badass pops, but pretty sure I haven't yet spat flames. Don't know if the Flyin Miata exhaust would do that but that'd definitely be pretty sweet.
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 Old 10-09-2014, 12:29 PM   #43
 
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Ordered a forge bypass valve and later in the day ordered the BEGi engineering TBI, asked them to combine my order to cut shipping, this is the response.

The comments for your order are

Thanks! We will get it made and shipped ASAP! I can't combine shipping, no. I had Forge send the bypass valve straight to you since you are closer to them. Normally, it would be no problem. But I had them ship it yesterday. Sorry! Shipping for the TBI tube should not be that much, so i will refund the difference.
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thought I should mention that, pretty awesome of them
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 Old 10-09-2014, 12:58 PM   #44
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Ordered a forge bypass valve and later in the day ordered the BEGi engineering TBI, asked them to combine my order to cut shipping, this is the response.

The comments for your order are

Thanks! We will get it made and shipped ASAP! I can't combine shipping, no. I had Forge send the bypass valve straight to you since you are closer to them. Normally, it would be no problem. But I had them ship it yesterday. Sorry! Shipping for the TBI tube should not be that much, so i will refund the difference.
Thanks,
Stephanie



thought I should mention that, pretty awesome of them
Very nice, what site did you order from?

Also, get that wideband fixed asap! Don't want to keep running the car hard without an idea of your afr's, too risky IMO.
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 Old 10-09-2014, 01:00 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by Tyhackman15 View Post
Very nice, what site did you order from?

Also, get that wideband fixed asap! Don't want to keep running the car hard without an idea of your afr's, too risky IMO.
Pretty sure the site is bellengineering, they carry all of the BEGi Miata turbo kits. And I know, my friend said he's free on Tuesday to help me out. Never hurts to have someone help that I know knows more than me, I don't wanna attempt it myself and do it wrong.
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 Old 10-09-2014, 09:29 PM   #46
 
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Glad the experience has been good thus far with BEGi. I would fix that CEL before throwing on a new part.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 01:17 AM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
Glad the experience has been good thus far with BEGi. I would fix that CEL before throwing on a new part.
CorSport Mechanical O2 Fix / Defouler - CorSport

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 Old 10-10-2014, 02:52 AM   #48
 
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Nice Miata! I've always wanted one. I was looking hard for a MSM before buying my MS3. It just wasn't practical for me to own. no room in the trunk for my gear/rifle/ect. Now that I make a bit more money, I might look into one for a secondary autox car
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 Old 10-10-2014, 07:46 AM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
Haha, I have never seen one of those with a 90 degree bend, and a $25 price tag. They are $3 at your local autoparts store. I hope it works out.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 08:18 AM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
dip sucks anyways
I'm going to groan you for this until you explain to me how dip sucks.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 09:45 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post

I wonder how hard it would be to swap a DISI in a Miata.....or is that even possible? Justin has 2 spare engines now.
yup many times...here is just a startup vid

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 Old 10-10-2014, 11:35 AM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
Haha, I have never seen one of those with a 90 degree bend, and a $25 price tag. They are $3 at your local autoparts store. I hope it works out.
well, damn. hah, oh well. should do the job.

Originally Posted by cbspd3flip View Post
I'm going to groan you for this until you explain to me how dip sucks.
I guess I should have worded that differently, and for that I apologize. I just don't like it. I feel like it doesn't hold up very well and I'm not a huge fan of the matte look. I prefer paint over dip. For the price, it's pretty awesome, and I've seen some really nice dip jobs, but there's things about it I don't like. I feel like the tiniest thing can make contact and put a very noticeable scratch that doesn't want to come out. And my passenger side side skirts are all torn and peeled up from people getting out of my car. That and just other little things. I should have just said "I prefer paint"
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 Old 10-10-2014, 12:05 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by TurboKitty View Post
I guess I should have worded that differently, and for that I apologize. I just don't like it. I feel like it doesn't hold up very well and I'm not a huge fan of the matte look. I prefer paint over dip. For the price, it's pretty awesome, and I've seen some really nice dip jobs, but there's things about it I don't like. I feel like the tiniest thing can make contact and put a very noticeable scratch that doesn't want to come out. And my passenger side side skirts are all torn and peeled up from people getting out of my car. That and just other little things. I should have just said "I prefer paint"
It's ok everyone has their opinion. Although I feel your opinion is being formed around a half-assed dip job.

When dip is done correctly, meaning proper prep work, spraying techniques, adequate amount of coats and proper maintenance, dip is more durable than any clearcoat or vinyl wrap. As for your comment about the tiniest thing can mar and scratch dip... that is because of the old formula and not being thick enough. I've seen cars that were wrecked that had professional dip jobs on them and the only thing that stood up was the dip. Same deal with the side skirts. Performix, maker of PD, came out with a new formula recently that holds up a lot better, it lays smoother so higher gloss finishes can be achieved, and provides better coverage. Also I've started using other brands such as HaloEFX and Raail. Raail has a gloss that will rival any clearcoat used for paint. You just need a professional automotive spray gun and experience to use it.

Like I said though, everyone has their opinions but please don't say something sucks because you don't like it or you just had a bad experience. If you have any questions just PM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 12:10 PM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by cbspd3flip View Post
It's ok everyone has their opinion. Although I feel your opinion is being formed around a half-assed dip job.

When dip is done correctly, meaning proper prep work, spraying techniques, adequate amount of coats and proper maintenance, dip is more durable than any clearcoat or vinyl wrap. As for your comment about the tiniest thing can mar and scratch dip... that is because of the old formula and not being thick enough. I've seen cars that were wrecked that had professional dip jobs on them and the only thing that stood up was the dip. Same deal with the side skirts. Performix, maker of PD, came out with a new formula recently that holds up a lot better, it lays smoother so higher gloss finishes can be achieved, and provides better coverage. Also I've started using other brands such as HaloEFX and Raail. Raail has a gloss that will rival any clearcoat used for paint. You just need a professional automotive spray gun and experience to use it.

Like I said though, everyone has their opinions but please don't say something sucks because you don't like it or you just had a bad experience. If you have any questions just PM me and I'll be happy to help you out.
That's just my ignorance then. I have two friends with dip jobs, one was done terrible, one was good but he had little problems with it. Anyways, thanks for informing me a little more on the subject, I won't hesitate to PM you if I have any questions. Here's what my dip job was done with(my main problem is the durability, not the color):

Gunmetal grey base, navy blue over that, then a mix of sapphire blue candy pearl and navy blue micro flake 2:1 in a mix of matte clear and glossifier is what's on it now
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 Old 10-10-2014, 12:55 PM   #55
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sorry but dip is for dips...wrap that bitch

for all the prep effort to dip you might as well put something good for a topcoat.
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LOL @ prep effort for dip. Because detailing a car is so complex and time consuming. My chrome truck bumpers have been dipped for over a year. I drive the bitch directly through bushes. Not a single chip or scratch. Amazing what people with paint experience can do. I'd be really upset if I spent 3x for a product that doesn't hold up 3x better.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 02:09 PM   #57
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The fact that you equate detailing a car to paint prep revels your level of expertise. Also bumpers vs an entire car is quite a bit of difference. I have 20 years in paint & body work. To do a paint job right you remove all moldings, handles, side markers, tails, heads, bumpers, etc. remove any weatherstrip or very carefully tape it off and back tape or foam roll the jambs.

If you are going that far wrap it yourself or put real paint on it. I have seen many a dip job and they look like a dip job. Maybe if you have a Sharpe, Devilbliss or Binks spray gun, dryer and good air equipment you can get better results but the typical do-it-your-selfer doesn't have access to this equipment.

everybody is entitled to their own opinion but lets compare apples to apples.

entire car vs bumper aint them.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 03:43 PM   #58
 
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FWIW we have a local guy that does an excellent job with wraps; @jdmage_mx5;
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 Old 10-10-2014, 04:07 PM   #59
 
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I like Miatas!
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 Old 10-10-2014, 05:42 PM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
The fact that you equate detailing a car to paint prep revels your level of expertise. Also bumpers vs an entire car is quite a bit of difference. I have 20 years in paint & body work. To do a paint job right you remove all moldings, handles, side markers, tails, heads, bumpers, etc. remove any weatherstrip or very carefully tape it off and back tape or foam roll the jambs.

If you are going that far wrap it yourself or put real paint on it. I have seen many a dip job and they look like a dip job. Maybe if you have a Sharpe, Devilbliss or Binks spray gun, dryer and good air equipment you can get better results but the typical do-it-your-selfer doesn't have access to this equipment.

everybody is entitled to their own opinion but lets compare apples to apples.

entire car vs bumper aint them.
Used the bumper as an example that dip is durable, and nothing sticks to chrome. I said detailing because there isn't any sanding or priming, so you just need to clean the car. If there are imperfections on the sheet metal, they will show, but that is expected regardless.

Dip is not intended to be a complete color change so stop acting like it is. You basically remove the taillights, lower the sunroof, open the doors, and put plastic over anything you don't want dip on. Any over spray you let it cure, then remove it from that area.

I'd be way more willing to buy a car in a color I didn't like knowing that I could change the color of it for less than $500 in materials and a few hours of my time. It's definitely a bonus it gets automotive paint guys all hurt in the butt about it.
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 Old 10-10-2014, 07:28 PM   #61
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no hurt over here by any means. we just have different standards, and there's nothing wrong with that.

tappin
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 Old 10-10-2014, 07:28 PM   #62
 
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Looks like I stirred a pretty nasty stew
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 Old 10-10-2014, 07:32 PM   #63
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hahaha no way man. we are just having an informed discussion.

ashamed to admit it, but I live 5 mins away from War Memorial and haven't made it down to a single autoX in a year or more...
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 Old 10-10-2014, 09:55 PM   #64
 
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Like I said everyone has their opinion!


I had a whole paragraph written, but for the sake of getting OP's thread back on track I deleted it. Carry on.


OP nice miata

Originally Posted by Dano View Post
The fact that you equate detailing a car to paint prep revels your level of expertise. Also bumpers vs an entire car is quite a bit of difference. I have 20 years in paint & body work. To do a paint job right you remove all moldings, handles, side markers, tails, heads, bumpers, etc. remove any weatherstrip or very carefully tape it off and back tape or foam roll the jambs.

If you are going that far wrap it yourself or put real paint on it. I have seen many a dip job and they look like a dip job. Maybe if you have a Sharpe, Devilbliss or Binks spray gun, dryer and good air equipment you can get better results but the typical do-it-your-selfer doesn't have access to this equipment.

everybody is entitled to their own opinion but lets compare apples to apples.

entire car vs bumper aint them.
Just going to say this... you must have seen some really shitty dip jobs to form the opinion that you have.

mardigras2.jpgm3_6.jpg

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 Old 10-12-2014, 07:52 PM   #65
 
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Got me a nice little sticker

So, my friend has a greddy td04h-15g, and he's upgrading his turbo. Don't know if that's any better than the stock IHI turbo. What do you guys think about me throwing in the td04?
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 Old 10-12-2014, 08:00 PM   #66
 
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16g would be a worthy upgrade. I think blouch made a 16g upgrade like bnr does with the bnr s3 for the mazdaspeed 3/6 platform.

If you know what goes into running a brand new turbo setup, and have engine management figured out, go for it.
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 Old 10-13-2014, 02:03 PM   #67
 
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Got my new forge bypass valve in, sounds pretty good, not too far from stock. Held a steady 10psi from 70mph to 115 so I'm happy. Also you may notice a sticker there. Left my hood popped at All Team Bash this weekend and found that gem in there today. It was actually one of my friends. Pretty funny, I think I'll keep it
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 10-13-2014, 06:24 PM   #68
 
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If you love dicks, it would make sense to keep it.
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 Old 10-13-2014, 06:47 PM   #69
 
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
If you love dicks, it would make sense to keep it.
Haha! Can't say I do, sorry
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 Old 10-17-2014, 11:37 AM   #70
 
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Bought this off a friend for $120. Went to install it last night but that o2 sensor from my LC-1 is a bitch and doesn't wanna come off and it was 12:30 and everybody was complaining about not wanting to work on it all night. So me and my friends are gonna take a stab at it again tonight. Managed to blow my radio fuse while taking my battery off which is just wonderful
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http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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 Old 10-17-2014, 02:18 PM   #71
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have you tried PB blaster? chits the real deal. soak the sensor, drink a beer, or two, then go after it. It has a catalyst that works on the rust and corrosion.
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 Old 10-18-2014, 02:12 PM   #72
 
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I found out why my a/f wasn't reading right... This was right behind the turbo.
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 Old 10-20-2014, 06:33 PM   #73
 
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Got my aem uego wideband in! Sorry no pics but its pretty boring. Idle sits pretty nice between 14 and 15. Light, slow acceleration makes me go down sometimes as low as 10.5 but it leans out. Full throttle is something like 11.5ish and leans out to 14.5. Too rich?
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 Old 10-20-2014, 06:43 PM   #74
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um too lean. Port injected petrol cars should run around 11:1 @ WOT give or take, depending on what the platform supports. Full E85 PI about 11.5-11.8ish. I am 100% positive 14ish at WOT is bad news...enough so that you should investigate before any more WOT action. If anything you should be getting richer toward RL like into the high 10's

You might want to ask some of the other Miata guys on here to see what they run.
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 Old 10-20-2014, 07:00 PM   #75
 
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Yea stop going WOT right meow. That's crazy lean. Some people run 12.x with a pro dyno tune, I run 11.6-11.8 for some extra safety.
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 Old 10-20-2014, 07:56 PM   #76
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
um too lean. Port injected petrol cars should run around 11:1 @ WOT give or take, depending on what the platform supports. Full E85 PI about 11.5-11.8ish. I am 100% positive 14ish at WOT is bad news...enough so that you should investigate before any more WOT action. If anything you should be getting richer toward RL like into the high 10's

You might want to ask some of the other Miata guys on here to see what they run.
Originally Posted by Tyhackman15 View Post
Yea stop going WOT right meow. That's crazy lean. Some people run 12.x with a pro dyno tune, I run 11.6-11.8 for some extra safety.
Thanks for your help. I just took a test drive. started messing with the fuel card a bit. It looks like it has about 5 "modes" (for the different rpm ranges?) and a plus or minus, you add fuel to each mode by simply pushing the plus or minus and a flashing led moves between 10 spaces to indicate how much fuel it's giving. I started screwing around with it and ended up turning every mode to 10. Working on getting a video uploaded right now. I'll apologize in advance for my filming, it's hard to hold a phone while hitting full boost. If you can't see the gauge, the middle number is 13.

I'll go ahead and explain what it's doing. Idle/cruise now fluctuates around 14-14.5. When i slowly apply gas (to build boost but not hitting boost, hitting about -2 on the boost gauge) it wants to go pretty rich, going as low as to about 9:1. WOT seems like it wants to start at 10.5 and once it starts making boost it goes to 11.5:1 and holds pretty even there. Video should be up in about 15 minutes. Thanks again.
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 Old 10-20-2014, 08:31 PM   #77
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11.5 at WOT sounds like you got WOT close to dialed in. your tip in enrichment is a bit rich but if one of the zones you mention controls tip in you can just adjust that zone I suppose. I know >< much about a Miata...lol
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 Old 10-20-2014, 08:33 PM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
11.5 at WOT sounds like you got WOT close to dialed in. your tip in enrichment is a bit rich but if one of the zones you mention controls tip in you can just adjust that zone I suppose. I know >< much about a Miata...lol
Here's the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9VPhil4cNM

and hey I hate to admit it but I don't either!! hah. I'll fuck with the fuel card some more, it seems like it's hard to find info about it online. I imagine the 2nd or 3rd mode would help with that. Does feel like it's running a bit better and maybe even a bit quicker but I was mainly only paying attention to a/f the whole way.
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 Old 10-21-2014, 06:23 AM   #79
 
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I called it. Glad you got something to monitor AFR on their now though.
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 Old 10-22-2014, 08:47 AM   #80
 
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Did a mountain run the other day and was hitting 100+mph and had to brake before corners and found out that I could use some new brakes.



Hawk HPS front and rear, stoptech rotors front and rear, all for $240.

Good deal?
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1999 Miata - 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata engine <60k, Enkei J-Speed 15x8+25, 205/50/15 Kumho Ecsta, Bilsteins with Eibach Springs, Racing Beat rear endlinks, Torsen LSD, Hawk HP+/HPS, FM full exhaust, FM intake, Begi TBI, Forge bypass valve, Fab9 Tuning IC, Mishimoto radiator, JR fuel management, AEM Uego wideband, GlowShift Boost gauge, Still Hood shift knob, Pioneer head-unit, Harddog rollbar, Hardtop, NB2 sideskirts, 10AE front bumper, Machined lip, NXS manual boost controller, 949 racing lug nuts, 949 racing tow hooks, 949 racing alignment, Multi-colored

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f15/mazdaspeed-swapped-1999-nb-miata-177248/
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