lil turbo vs BT timeslips
 

well.... i aint re creating my other drag racing thread....BUT...i thought it would be important to show the difference of how my car will perform with only 2 variables being changed.

Nov 20th (yeah cuz oct 30th i got molested by god s weather) im gonna try at scratching a 12 out of the track.....

to basically update the thread.... i have nittos 245-50-16s (broken in already) and will be trying this out on the newer ko4 i had gotten a lil while ago (21-22psi )

now..what has changed since a couple of weeks ago is that my clutch unfortunately is on its last licks.....will drive fine around town. but as soon as i slap on the stickies and start short shifting 1st gear it places greater load into 2nd and by 3rd gear my RPM zooms without much acceleration......and constant powershifting doesnt help matters

i cant do much other than soft launching it but my clutch aint going out like that....shattered and scattered is a more likely scenario....fuck it.

to add to all this.... i have to do 2nd gear burnouts to generate enough heat... but i don't think im gonna do more than a first gear burnout......

so...... not sure how the car will react Nov 20th.... maybe it will yield a decent pass or two.... or maybe ill come home with 1.9s 60ft timeslips and 16 sec ETs.... fuck, we ll find out soon enough.


Thats the first test at the track.....

My next test will be either in December or early January and the ONLY thing that will be different is the car will have the ATP GT3071r plus the components to make it work (hallman pro rx mbc, cpe inlet rather than the cobb one.

I am unsure of what boost I will run... my car has 77k miles and I dare not run 20psi on the BT..... I will try 15, 16, 17 , 18 and wont go beyond that. (until i rebuild the shortblock)

The other thing that will be different is a new clutch....(buying one as we speak from SU (Mark) , I ordered the ACT street clutch and flywheel,...maybe will even change it to the 6 puck sprung...idk I'm deciding today)

When the Bt and clutch are in.... I will run the same tire, same track and about same weather conditions I hope... for a fair test.

what will the car do then??? i dont know... I hope on 18psi of boost of the 3071r I can pick up 5mph over the ko4 at 22psi.... time will tell.

I'll add a few pics from my set up in a bit.....

here are the nittos 555r 245-50-16 on 16x7.5 (16lbs wheels)

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...wdecals006.jpg

heres the break in lol

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...breakin012.jpg

and as they sit on the car

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...gradiaS002.jpg

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...gradiaS003.jpg

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/.../washed003.jpg

Coolest thing you posted was the center caps on the wheels with the radials lol

hahah i have gotten hit up for those by a few peeps already.....

Not going to lie, they're sexy. I'd definitely take a set.

hit up cornerfreak.... shit his vendorship dropped when we crashed

gotta fix that

I forgot Brian even became a vendor lol.

Well, BOT good luck at the strip Rodrigo, hope to see some 12 second passes!!

hey lenny,

about that clutch. I posted up in your other thread but we know what happened to that one. I too have the ACT street kit ready to go and my clutch lets go in 4th on a power run and will not even grab on any FFS shift, so its fucked as well.

you mentioned that you drove some fags car with an ACT in it and you hated it. I asked which ACT he had and then the site crashed.

anyway...do you know what he was running cuz the street kit should do fine without the heavy left foot required to operate. Maybe that other guy had a 6PUCK setup and I doubt you want that for DD.

a sprung 6 or 8 puck may be ok ... I wouldn't go for a solid disc in any case. What is the clamping force of the ACT pressure plate compared to stock?

Shit!!! That's a great idea... Makes me wish I'd gone to the track before I went BT.

I also fucking love those center caps. I want them in gold plz.

beats me...I just see shiny chit and buy it! got a good deal on it from xcoldricex BNIB

Hell I didn't even fuckin know my turbo was DBB until Lenny called me out on it.

my buddy Google says 48 % over OEM. Linked from SUs site. Street Kit.

here's the low down

ACT Clutch Kit


Torque Capacity is 365 ft/lbs



Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) has released a new Heavy Duty performance clutch kit and components for the 07-09 Mazdaspeed 3, 05-07 Mazdaspeed 6.
ACT’s new clutch kit for the Mazdaspeed 3 and Mazdaspeed 6 features a Heavy Duty Pressure Plate that incorporates hardened diaphragm fingers for decreased wear and provides a 48% increase in clamp force over the stock unit.
The ACT Street Clutch Kit combines the Heavy Duty Pressure Plate and a Performance Organic Disc, a disc that features special performance organic friction materials to withstand increased heat and abuse, steel backed linings for high burst strength and modifications engineered for quicker shifting. The ACT Street Clutch Kit provides increased pedal feel, smooth engagement and significantly improved consistency, durability and increases the torque capacity to 365 lbs/ft.
ACT Race Clutch Kits will hold 470 lbs/ft of torque. Metallic Ceramic Xtreme Discs are available in 4 and 6 puck sprung and un-sprung hub designs and are very durable while allowing for quick shifting. The Xtreme Discs are design for high power engines and are recommended for track us only.

lol @ fag

thats my buddy roy (hndaetr) ..he has the street clutch and is stiff as balls.

here is also something to consider.....

socks pointed out to me that the kits use the same pressure plate....

pressure plate is what determines stiffness and travel.

pucks or material used on disc is what determines how fast and hard it bites (along with pressure plate)

so if the 6 puck has the same pressure plate.... there would be no difference in pedal feel... only jerkiness from the 6 puck grabbing faster

Can you guys please stop editing your posts?
Everytime i click "new posts" I see this damn thread back at the top and think MSF is broked again.

i'm so glad everyone gloves the centercaps lol
i need those too

first..sorry hndaetr I didn't know it was your car..

second.. stiff as balls...hum maybe it was new...i'll pm him and get answers.

oh...no need to apologize...he IS a fag

The torque holding capacity of OEM is more than 360 ft lbs. They consider OEM to be 280? I don't see how they came up with that 48% number.

The OEM is a pretty tough clutch.

There are 3 things that matter in a clutch:
1. Pressure plate clamping force.
2. Disc material
3. Diameter - overall contact surface area.

The 3rd one doesn't matter in this case as they are all same size.

I would take a heavier PP over a very grabby material any day on a street car. Easier on the drivetrain and smoother in traffic. So for me, it would be organic full faced disc with a heavier pressure plate. The foot gets a good workout that way too :)

hum well the street can hold 365lb/tq and the race can hold 470lb/tq so the disk is the only difference????

Like I said, those numbers are BS. I wouldn't be surprised if the disc was the only difference/

the act has a ton more clamping force.... materials..?? who knows....

for me it was a price decision since i saw the street was 150 cheaper than race.... but now that I'm told that same hardware other than disc..wondering why this would be the case...since the 6 puck has less material than a full disc....

maybe the 6 puck is made of ademantium

fuck all this BS, numbers, percentages....I am installing the chit I have and see WTF happens LOL

I'll report back in 1 week.

Or it's simply marketing and volume.

i always watch patterns.... its a subject that has always interested me...whether it applies to peoples behavior or simply economics...

and from what I have seen the street clutches were more expensive from the get go....

i assumed it was simply from demand and NOT from actual cost.

now I see the reverse... the 6 pucks are up.... but only on certain vendors.. so its shifting back and forth.

ACT is actually about an hour north of me... I was trolling them today and their prices are higher on street vs the 6 puck ones leading me to believe that cost (when pressure plates/flywheels are identical on the kits) shows the full disc (even being a street clutch) is more expensive than a 6 puck or a 4 puck.

the only thing that would change this is higher quality flywheel/pressure plate...and more expensive friction material on the disc/pucks

I ordered the street from SU... but I am waiting on Mark to explain to me why the 6 puck is more money when all things point to it needing to be les money.

hmmmmm... i'll see what he says

I have the 6 puck sprung and it feels wayyy better then stock but its wayyy heavier then stock also but much easier to control IMO

its a shame that nothing can be taken at face value anymore.

as always guys, your input is much appreciated!

ya..im about to switch to the 6 puck... i just need to see if ole Mark can make its price a lil more like the street clutch price....

fuck man..im spending way too much money on this fucken car

hum..so all I would need is the disk to "upgrade"....nah fuck it..I am running the street kit..I don't drag race.

6 Puck is prab a good idea for you lenny

well.... i bought the 6 puck from elsewhere.... i cannot wait 2-3 weeks for this... wont last.

flip side to the BT test is that since ill be on mbc its gonna be mighty fucked up to run a decent 60ft at full boost off a drag radial.....

might prove unsuccessful and may need to switch to a QTP hoosier....

but thats for later.....

Is philly also changing your clutch when he's doing the turbo?

Lol no problem!

ymscihmf!

no.... but roy (hndaetr) mechanic is... hahahhahaah

fuck working on cars man...fuck it so hard.

i aint doing that shit.... fuck that!!

been there done that for too many years.... when u get to be close to 40 and make a decent living u evaluate whats important...and getting your hadsn dirty and your ass numb aint one of those....

ACT 6 puck. I run that clutch. It's heavy (even for an ACT). I have the same clutch in an SRT4, and the one for the MS3 is definitely heavier for some reason. Drove the cars back to back.

6 puck is a little bit grabby, but not too bad. Even the parking lot attendents at the lot I park at are used to it now.

Good luck on your 12 second quest. Oh, you HAVE to do your burnout in 2nd with drag radials, otherwise they won't get hot enough to stick.

<---- this is a 2nd gear burnout. Short 2nd gear burnout > longer 1st gear burnout.

event cancelled......... so much for 12s in 2010......

next one is dec 4th.... but im sure there will be tornado + earthquakes that day......


i really want to get a few runs in to show trap b4 and after BT...especially now that the clutch will be in and it wont be a factor....

we ll see

Nowhere else to go that closer?

What the hell

I thought it never rained in sunny socal


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i could go like 160 miles from my house but fuck that.... and yeah it never rains here...except when i need to race....

oh well...nator install day ....fuck it

irwindale is too far? or race legal in SD which i hear is a shity strip but never been on it

irwindale is 8th mile.... wtf do i want to go there with a fwd and drag radials for???

anyways... this coming up sat the clutch will go on.... the problem is that i basically have 5 days to break it in before dec 4th race...... act recommends 300 miles break in, medium engagement , no verheating etc etc...

that means... no burnouts, no slipping the clutch purposely, no launching at higher than idle rpm, no powershihting..... and in 5 days I can certainly put 300 miles.... but does friction material really break in and cure in 5 days?? I would guess not.....

i would hate to ruin my clutch for being impatient about racing..... in the end how the car runs on the street is what i am after always since 99% of my races are there....

ill see how things go.....

Thats dumb. Go out and slip the clutch real hard one time then drive it for 50 miles. Then park it and let it cool off. Thats how I break in all my clutches. this shit has been disproved over and over again for the last 20 years. Get the clutch on and go drive it like you stole it.

u shua?

i dont really know much about manual trannys... shits for the birds.. automatics is ma domain

anybody here already running an ACT clutch?

The throw out bearing gets much louder than the OEM after the tranny gets warm. Ya know clutch out idling in neutral = loud, push clutch in and it goes quiet.

I also switched to the FoMoCo XT fluid at the same time so I don't know which might be causing the issue.

so go out and slip the fuck out of it and let it ride huh. I only have about 40 miles on mine so far and I have been taking it easy.

I have the same clutch you are getting, and I broke that motherfucker in driving from my friend's house to the track. 50 miles on it before its first 2nd gear burnout. You'll be alright.

hahahah ...i thought u had the 6 puck???

i was going to but circumstances ended me up with the street disc

it's like I don't even exist here....:(

u said u dont drag race....^^^^^

hahah

not "officially"

I just wanted to know if someone with an ACT kit noticed the bearing making about 2x more noise than OEM.

I'll post up in the tranny section.

P.S. I wonder what the A/R is on the new bearing...it looks smaller :)

I have it...

It's not the throwout bearing that gets louder... It's because the oem flywheel is a dual mass flywheel which dampens the gear noise/vibration coming from the tranny.

The ACT flywheel is a single mass, lighter weight flywheel - thus no damping of gear noise (or vibration) while the clutch pedal is released.

The reason it gets quieter when you push the clutch in, is because you've now interrupted the connection between the transmission and the engine...

Gear oil has very little to do with it...

The documentation that came with your clutch kit talks about this...

And as for ignoring the manufacturer's break in directions... They put them in there for a reason... But this is a car forum - where everyone knows more than the manufacturer...

thanks man!

I have a few problems with #1 being I don't read directions unless after I finish something goes wrong and the directions are with the shop that performed the install

What you said makes perfect sence and is exactly what I am hearing. Gear noise out the Wazzoo.

You also hear it easing thru 1st gear until engine/wind noise gets louder than the gears

The XT fluid def makes the LSD whine now when cold but man the shifting is Soooo much smoother.

Lenny get the XTM5QS from kmansparts.com

no friction modifier needed.

oh and I am in no rush to thrash the clutch...no pending races so I will let it get used to the FW before hammering on it.

I have the 6 puck sprung ACT. The noise that you hear is gear noise, not ther throw out bearing. I spoke to Dirk about this and he confirmed it. If it's a throw out bearing, the noise would stop once your foot is on the clutch, not pressing it all the way in. I know the stock flywheel is dual mass, which is actually a pretty cool design, but from what I remember (or not remember, because we did an SRT4 clutch around the same time), this ACT was similar. Anyway, the noise is nothing to worry about. It's just that the noise from the gears isn't isolated like it used to be. The noise goes away with clutch pedal in because everything is totally separated, like what hnda etr said.

Lenny, I thought U were getting the 6 puck. I don't know if you can thrash on a full face the same way you would with a 6 puck, as far as breaking it in. You're on your own there.

yeah also man, the 6 pucks break in quicker

Thanks guys!

I can already tell this thing is strong and there is no longer the OEM mushy feel.

I will treat it easy for 300-500 miles before I get back to FFSing again. I never launch the car so that isn't an issue. I do love me some FFS though and with the XT fluid I think it will be even better.

got mine done today.... heres my fucken old one http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-clutch-65800/


new one grabs hard...will need to break it in in 6 days!!!

How do u like it?

Did u end up w street or 6 puck disc

street,..... good shit!

gotta practice cuz its way diff than stock....

Yes it is but feels great. Out tuning now and loving this clutch on the FF shifting.

did u get stumbles in 1st or reverse at first?? i think my foot is so trained on driving a certain way that im not pressing the clutch far down enough and not giving it enough engine speed.... my clutch has been fucken i think since day one cuz i could always just coast out of 1st gear with lil input from wither pedal....

this fucker actually grabs now lol

No shudder at all. My installer said I might get some until the disc broke in but I never got any. Smooth as OEM but grabs harder.

I get it if I don't give it enough gas when accelerating from a stop...

so basically i got like 250 miles... and the way to launch now normally from a light is quick tap to 2k rpm and slip some clutch and smooth as slik....

guess thats the new way.... also got a trz mount and should have it by friday b4 drags.....

the only thing that could go wrong is 20% chance of rain hahahahahhahahahhahah

3rd time i get rained out possibly in socal.... hahahahhahahahahhahaha

i dont care....

Update:

either my left leg is getting stronger or the clutch kit is breaking in a lil and its' not as on/off or stiff as it was originally.

its breaking in I had the same experiance

ok..checked weather forecast and rain moved from saturday to sunday and monday.... so this might be it guys....

im gonna be so pissed when i run 13s hhahahahhahahahahhahahahahhahahahha

13.99

OK... now im fucken worried.

so i slapped the drag radials on tonight.... my son tells me..."hey dad can i come along?".... (i was gonna do some launches) so i said sure why not....not really doing super fast shit...just some 0-70 launches....

first thing i notice is that there is such a thin line now between bogging and pure tirespin that its not even funny... but considering i was running 30psi and no burnout i can deal with it...

so anyways... i launch at 2700 or so....some tirespin... shift normally into second and tirespin/wheelhop... ok...ill adjust and go powershift into 3rd........... DENIED!!!!!!:eek2:

try it again , launch , shift t 2nd .... try powershifting into 3rd and DENIED!!!!!!!!!

fuck.... by now my son is looking at me like...gtfo dad u aint gonna mke it down the track like this....the tranny now torques over more so the spot isnt the same...and also i am not pushing the clutch far down enough and wont let me go into 3rd....

i said fuck it..ill try some 3-4 powershifts... denied!!!!!!!!! wtf wtf wtf......

after 15 min or so i dropped off my son and said fuck it.... went home.

about 20 min later i wanted a soda so i went out again.... tried it and got denied half the times...but succeeded the other half.... pedal needs to be on the floorboard for it to be able to powershit and the timing is a lil off from before....

this shit is gonna take plenty of practice... if i had to run tomorrow i would totally fuck up the runs.... so i would have to granny shift and that will lose me .4-.6 second easily.... thats my 12s right there...

so i got a few more nights to get this down...in the meantime i would like to try out ffs on the ap.....what do i need to do to set it ???

i shift at 6250 rpm or as close to it as possible...... how should i be setting it...maybe it will let me shift more consistently.....

fml

WTB - Driver Mod for Lenny127

PM offers...

wait..... what was your best time roy?? i cant remember....

wait..its coming to me now...

oh ya.... fully bolted 14.0 @108mph .... nice man! u worry about cracking a 13.9 .... ill worry about a 12.9......

i just need to practice.... and tranny mount wont be here friday...monday instead ...fawk...really wanted it to keep shit from torquing around...

oh well

ummm.. might i suggest not being a pussy? maybe your 16 year old son can drive?
your welcome.. sweetie pie.

hey...its the socal boys.... first 14 second roy...and now its 2871r ms6 dane that cant turn a 15 for the life of him.....

awesome.....wheres buckling wild babcoxx??? or reverse launching tom??? anyone else have any tips??

LOL...

Let's not forget that that was the very first time I'd ever been on a drag strip, hmmm?

So I think in total, I've run down the track 6 times compared to your what, 20-30-more?

Oh, and btw, SMNF!

20 or 30 lol..... ask julio how many times e ran the first time we raced each other.... i had over 30 runs that day and he had about the same...hahahha

i gotta practice .... its not as easy as u guys think...u dont get that 60ft right and there aint shit u can do afterwards

the tranny mount helps a lot I noticed a big difference :18:

FFS is very addictive :)

Set your FFF rev limit below what you will actually shift at. So if you go at 6300 set FFS rev limit to 6K. That way you don't ever clutch before rev limit. oh and remember what your in-dash tach says and what your actual RPM is, is off by about 200 with the tach reading high.

Here is what I have

FFS Rev Limit 6500
LC Vehicle Speed Limit 13
LC 2500
normal rev limit 6700
speed limiter hysteresis 2

the other thing you can try is to adjust your shifter. There is a vid somewhere and its super simple just pop the shift boot off and the adjuster is right in there...I had the same issue going into 3rd until I made this change.

Edit: I have the vid but its 70MB. If your e-mail will let you get that large of an attachment PM me and I'll send it to you.

Also get an Engals "Stiffy" mount for the pass side of your motor, this helped out with shifting a ton.

oh an last but not least get another driver...with this last step you can skip all the others.

Lenny. What fluid do you have in your transmission? If you don't have that Ford stuff, consider getting it. It helped my car out a lot when 3rd was crunching.

Also, I know on SRT4s and Evos, there is an adjustment on the clutch master cylinder rod, where you can adjust the pedal ehight, which in turn controls how much your slave cylinder pushes the fork/throw out bearing. If you feel like your clutch isn't allowing you into gear, you may want to try extending the rod, or moving the pedal height up (away from the floor). This way, the rod gets pushed in more when you push down on the clutch pedal, allowing the pressure plate to "open" more.

I wanna see you run 12's.

+1 on the FoMoCo Xtq5 fluid.


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yeah..there are a few things that will def help the transition for me....

a) i would love for the pedal to engage the clutch sooner..... because I also noticed that for the powershift to go through successfully the clutch pedal had to be 100% touching the floorboard ..... that was one of the reasons i got denied... ive never had to completely floor it.....

b) tranny mount will help a ton....the engine and tranny torque over way more now ...its obvious because at some points when i go pull on the shifter to get out of a certain gear it just shoots out as if it was gonna snap....

c) i have to adjust how i drive....... the window of opportunity for powershifting having such a smaller window of clutch engagement is crucial for not fucking up..... simple as that. today is my day off the gym so ill practice some more......

if i dont get it 100% by saturday i might just have to go with partial powershifts ...where i barely back off the throttle so the engine/tranny dont torque over and the powershift is easier to accomplish....only problem is that then i get a slight delay in power from boost not staying up at least above 14-15psi


ehh will see


p.s. i got an axle seal that is slightly leaking.... will put about a drop or two of oil a day and leave the bottom of the tranny nice and wet..... so i gotta wipe that shit off b4 every race to make sure they dont bounce me

oh and im running rp tranny fluid...might change to motorcraft when i replace the seal..but that the week after... ill have to replace seal, put on tranny mount and swap for the BT..... day will be epic

Something might be wrong. I know that ACT clutches generally grab "higher" than other clutches, including stock. Higher, as in barely needing to push the clutch down; far away from having the pedal being on the floor. Because you have the opposite, AND with an ACT clutch, I think you need to adjust the clutch master cylinder rod (if it's adjustible in these cars). Making that adjustment will change where the clutch grabs. From what you are describing (locking out of gear), it could be that the pressure plate is barely opening.

Mounts on these cars just suck. My car is still somewhat new, and I know the mounts will eventually go. RMM helps, but does not cure. If you have the tranny mount, throw it on. Motor torquing can also lock you out of gear, because the gemotry of shifting/gear change, changes.

If you are powershifting, and the clutch grabs closer to the top of the pedal like it should, you dont have to change your driving style much at the track, because everything happens so quick.

Take videos this Saturday. I wanna see 12's!!

Oh, don't worry about the axle if it's just a drop. Tracks usually dont carte too much if it's little.

u r too big to get that low time. i only weigh 120lbs. you should fly me n and pay me to drag your car for u. u can pay me n that legal bud

on the way to work i practiced some more.... i got the 3-4 down.... ill get back to you guys later on this....

on the last stretch of street before work i floored it went sideways in 3rd i started noticing left tracks on my rearview mirror.... drove to the side and back to see if it was following me and sure as shit it was....

first thought was fuck..seal flew out lol

pull over smoke and smell of coolant everywhere..... upper radiator hose burst and has about a 3 inch gash on it....coolant everywhere...

now im at work and i gotta figure out how to fix it, work , and make it home....

easy fix if i had a replacement and was at home

His clutch engages higher, as it should and just like mine....

I think it's a combination of a few things:

1: Getting used to it

2: The lightened flywheel may be causing a different behavior in how the whole assembly rotates. I remember in my 02 Maxima with a lightened flywheel, when I pushed the clutch in quickly, the revs would bounce UP for a second before starting to drop. I think it was because the lighter flywheel wasn't causing such a drag on the motor (parasitic loss) as the heavier flywheel did.

That's what I think may be happening here - Lenny taps the clutch but keeps the gas down and instead of the revs dropping slightly like with the old, heavier flywheel, the revs pop up a bit, putting him out of that sweet spot that allows him to get into the next gear...

Pushing the pedal all the way to the floor seems successful because what's actually happening is that extra time allows the revs to stop climbing and possible drop a bit.

At least that's my theory lol...

here is what i noticed that i need to adjust as far as timing..... i need to consciously push in the clutch a hair sooner than before.... i used to tap the clutch about the same time as I used to yank on the shifter.... but it seems now I need to delay the shifting a hair and engage the clutch sooner...

idk was supposed to practice tonight but i gotta fix the hose now..fml

Duct tape the shit outta it till you get home

wait..you manage dispatchers or something right...well reroute a niggah to the Zone or Mazda to get you a new hose and coolant.

Worst thing that could happen is one of your faggot bosses will fire you and...wait that would be a good thing right.

Win Win

first thing i did when i came in to work was ask the warehouse manager if he had duct tape.... lol ill post some pics... but this gash is about 4-5 inches..curves and is on a bend lol..... y ai could try it..but i cant get to it because of the sri, the air box etc.... so i dispatched a driver to go get me a stock hose , and distilled water...and signed up for AAA today and will get towed home....ill fix it tonight...no biggie.

btw the hose that blew up was an obx that i had put on a while back..fuck obx..shitty ass hoses.

should be ok..better than busting it at the track

who will you dispatch to install said new hose? :)

believe it or not , i have been wrenching on cars since my dad let me do the brakes on his 48 ford prefet (cousin to the anglia) when i was 12 years old.... then went to auto tech school in college etc etc,.... i choose to not work on cars....but when the shit needs getting done i gotta do it... and i have tried with my son (he s 15) but i get too impatient and mean...so i rather not put him in that spot....

lenny wrenches solo tonight

oh I was sure you knew "how" to turn a wrench but as you stated you have chosen not to.

bottom line..I was bustin your chops and once again my humor is lost sometimes...:)

I have done everythign on my car except for the clutch install...and the guy that did it fucked a few things up on my car [nothing I haven't fixed already, intake totally loose, neutral switch harness not even connected, tranny fluid all over the place] so that will never happen again...if I had a lift I would have done the clutch...lesson learned.

He's gonna send a driver with the car out east so Philly can do it...

FML... Didn't respond quick enough...

I got it ;)

oh i got your joke.... but i dont find it funny one bit that i actually gotta do peasant work

truely a shame....

but seriously, dealing with coolant and such is no fun.

BT install on the other hand = Fun

seriously..if the god damn sri and cs airbox wasnt in the way it would take 15 minutes.... i just hate taking dumb shit off just to get to other shit....

oh well.... looks like im getting a coolant flush lol

im o dunk distilled water.... fuck coolant (should be half full by what i saw on the ground haha)

Winter is here..oh NM....guess that means you guys drop to what 50* LOL

my son just got home..... i asked him to check the garage where i have all oem parts....and sure as shit i have the stock hose still ..oh well

ok.... final update .....

the good-

car is tip top (whatever the fuck that means for me..kr everywhere but thats how my car runs...will be good)

hose fixed..drag radials on.... clutch broken in and sticking strong etc etc

no rain in the forecast ..looks like 70 degrees...perfect weather.

the bad-

for the life of me i cannot powershift into 3rd .... godamnit im so pissed..i went out just now at 1am launching on the street and even on the fwy (try it..its pretty cool...act like u are stranded and when u dont see anyone.....launch the fucker) and i cant get the fucken gear in..... call it what u will.... inexperience with the new clutch and timing the shift properly.... engine torquing over too much and not letting me line up the throw correctly.... i dont know.... what i do know is that out of about 22 tries i nailed only 2!!!! and if i go try that shit at the track im o end up with 100% botched runs.

all i can do is normal shift 2-3 and deal with the bog.... the car obviously drops power and does the old stumble and that alone is worth .200 from what i have researched with my accelerometer..... but..what can i do.. it is what it is.

the ugly- im gonna do some 1st and second gear burnouts and we will see how gummy these fucken hockey pucks get.... i hope that at least the time i lose between 2-3 shift ill make up on decent launches.... i need a 1.90-1.95 to be able to run a 12.9 .... dont know how that will go .... but im gonna try my best... im even gonna buy double entrance so i can be in 2 groups and try twice the runs.....

in the end.... im taking my own advice i give people.... i am just gonna better my previous times.... i was hoping for a 12.7-12.9 before at around 108-109 ...... but it might prove that this saturday isnt that day for me.... either way ill show my traps ...and the weekend after this one the 3071r will go on...and then we see what a turbo does for your mph.......


sorry if this seems like a bunch of excuses.... i really wanna run the number....but im getting myself mentally blocked with that 3rd gear bullshit and is fucking up ma mojo.

done practicing..... ill post the vids of my succfail when we get back....

dude...have you tried to adjust your shifter?? it is way easy....takes 5 minutes...test...5 minutes...test...done...

IIRC What you are adjusting is the left to right throw of the selector. Right now, its prap way easy to shift into 1-2, then 3rd will be too hard and 5-6th will be easy again. When you adjust you move the selector over a lil and 1-2 may be a bit harder...3rd gold..5th a bit harder...

jussayin if you haven't done it its worth 15 minutes.

Sounds like excuses...

wooooooohhhhhooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!! im not on call this weekend so i can enjoy the full day at the track.

i swear im gonna try as hard as i can to bust a 12

Well did u bust a 12?


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omg............... i sucked so bad yesterday........ horrible..... i should part out this second and sell my car for 24k .....


complete and utter failure.

heres how it went down.

had 7 runs.

apparently fwd burnouts on a stickshift vs rwd burnouts on an auto stick are a bit different .....cuz i got owned !!!!

i had no success the first 5 times at the waterbox (mind u i have never had a fwd car with a stick b4 so im just as much a noob on this setup as anyone here) the dude at the waterbox places u in a spot.... i held the e brake and as soon as i dump the clutch the car lurches forward and i cant finish the burnout...or shit even begin it. i tried 1st and 2nd gear both fucked.

so i call up anthony (driver311) to skool me on this fwd stick business cuz im getting pwned hard.... he instructs me to (once the tech isnt watching) roll back about half a foot on the water..... and pump the brake pedal 3 times and hold and then pull on the e brake.... well....this worked like a charm and on my last 2 i was finally able to generate smokey burnouts...unfortunately by then my clutch was so overheated that i got locked out of 2nd gear on the 6th run and 3rd gear on the 7th run , although my 60fts had improved greatly cuz of the heat.

that was just the burnout problems...which right there will already fuck up your launch capabilities... best 60ft i got was 2.2 which i have done numerous times with regular street tires.... my other problems were obviously no powershifting into 3rd , which from my data has always shown .200 improvement.... and then by the 4th run i developed a leak in the center section of my valve cover.....

my best run of the day was a measly 13.601 at 105.xx .... with a 2.264 60ft ... basically same shit as on street tires....

no excuses though....i fucked it up...i assumed the shit would be the same as the countless slick runs i have had with my musclecars, but out of the box (pun intended) i was fucking shit up.... so complete failure on my part.

heres the my best taped run of the day....u cant see my tires at the box but u see im fucking it up and developing no heat (that was a 2nd gear attempted burnout)

enjoy....and by all means flame me cuz i deserve it....

Hey, at least you tried. You saw your plan out to the end. Unlike some people that come in here guns blazing, to run out of ammo or patience before anything happens.

ya im not down....shit man i enjoy drag racing and realize that with this car u gotta have fast reflexes and i know i dont.... so not gonna get down about shit..i try my best and the only thing im seriously after is improving myself....

this shit is quite different from what i have known..... for me it was always the same... pull up to the water.....set the line lock...do a burnout while shifting in the waterbox to gain speed....release line lock and roll into the beam.... then set trans brake or brake foot if u dont have one...preload the suspension and let go and away you went....

this import shit definitely requires a diff set of reflexes and skills....

btw.... fuck drag radials man..... im o look into buying some qtp s ..... cuz to get same 60fts i rather run street tires than nittos...

anyways back on topic...

highest trap was 107.5 mph for me.... next sunday the 3071r goes on and january 8th ill be back at the track hopefully.

so until then ill get the car set up... and i am shooting for 112-113mph traps now.... all i want is a 5mph (50 hp increase) and i will leave it at that until the motor gets rebuilt

lol