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 Old 11-26-2014, 07:21 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post

Dano, I would rather get castrated than drive in Florida without AC.
And the 6 is not full homo yet. Like the 3, it will remain streetable for the foreseable future. No weight shedding or AC delete or balance shaft delete or any of those things.
O I C, that makes sense then but I'm still confused as I thought everything you did was full homo...oh well carry on sir. I do enjoy how you throw away the entire wheel and start from a square block of wood and end up with master pieces.
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 Old 11-26-2014, 08:18 AM   #82
 
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Yes I was referring to redline or something comparable.

I use De-ionized water and I haven't noticed any coloUr change or notice scaling buildup. Mind you I swap over the coolant for the winter so the water is not in there longer than 6 months. Tap water and distiller water will cause a buildup though.
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 Old 11-26-2014, 08:35 AM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 View Post
Yes I was referring to redline or something comparable.

I use De-ionized water and I haven't noticed any coloUr change or notice scaling buildup. Mind you I swap over the coolant for the winter so the water is not in there longer than 6 months. Tap water and distiller water will cause a buildup though.
Get that crap out of here lol.


On a serious note, i've never even heard of De-ionized water ... My GF is a science teacher though, i'm sure she could snag me some to play with lol. I've often contemplated switching to a heavier blend of water. Do you mix water / coolant on weight or volume, kinda like WMI? Or does it matter?
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 Old 11-26-2014, 08:44 AM   #84
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Its the water some dealerships use to wash cars. Zero spotting. Same thing inside your rad.

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 Old 11-26-2014, 11:46 AM   #85
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Ok sure. You can use counter current deionized water or ASTM Type IV highly purified water if you want. Not really sure that will make a difference in your cooling system. Distillation removes pretty much all the solids.

And yes. I looked it up in Wikipedia.

Purified_water Purified_water
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 Old 11-27-2014, 09:52 PM   #86
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Imo the radiator on this car shouldn't be a problem except that it's also cooling the engine oil through the heat exchanger and the tcase through its heat exchanger, both of which generate an enormous amount of heat. Splitting those off with their own cooling circuits would probably solve 100% of the heat issues anyone could have. I don't know that it's possible to put a large enough radiator in to cool all of that.
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 Old 12-23-2014, 07:25 AM   #87
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Few new mods.
Added a cute little catch can between VC and intake. It's a lil pricey but I love the dipstick and it is also small enough to fit between the brake fluid reservoir and battery.
Also fabbed up some heat shields for the turbo/manifold. One of the stock turbo shields fit perfectly for this.

Old moroso baffled breather. Just too small.







Sotck heat shield for turbo. Made bracket. Tapped on of the bosses on the head with an M6 so I could it there.








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 Old 12-25-2014, 09:32 AM   #88
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Rear Bilstein shock thread here.
Still running FSDs up front.

Bilstein Race Shocks for the 6
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 Old 01-11-2015, 07:47 PM   #89
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Went to the track at Palm Beach yesterday. Not a very exiting track. I only come here in the winter to change it up from Sebring and Homestead.
The 6 did really well except for a lil too much blow by oil coming out out of the VC for my taste. Emptied the catch can when I got home and it had about half a soda can of oil in it. The catch can was empty before heading to the track.
Running about 24 psi right now and 15 deg timing at red line.
Coolant temps stabilize at 222/228 during 75 deg weather.
Engine oil stabilizes at 245 deg.
Transfer case about 250.
Transmission goes all the way up to 270 and would keep climbing I presume after more than 30 mins.
Rear diff only goes up to 210 or so. That is cooler than a penguins arse.
The 7163 is totally fucking win. That shit will pull out of 3K rpm doing 22 psi. I can take every single corner in this track in 4th. Don't need to change down to third.

Came home and tried doing a compression check. Broke the ceramic isolator on a spark plug getting it out. Now the crap is in the cylinder. Time to buy a borescope and try to get that shit out of there somehow.




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 Old 01-11-2015, 08:51 PM   #90
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Interesting that the tcase goes that high, it's got a cooler.

Just how many gauges do you have that you know all of those temps?
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 Old 01-11-2015, 08:57 PM   #91
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Tomas, still stock radiator and no extra oil cooler correct?

How are the brakes holding up? OEM calipers and ducts correct?

Finally, the EFR spool, sounds like it might even be better than a GTX2867/GT2871 with the flow capability above a GTX3076.
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Are the t-case temps high because the coolant temps are high in general? Probably due to running a FMIC. My coolant temps are like 20 degrees lower but I have nothing in the way of the radiator.
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 Old 01-11-2015, 09:30 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Interesting that the tcase goes that high, it's got a cooler.

Just how many gauges do you have that you know all of those temps?
A lot.

The t-case behaves differently than the other mechanical assemblies. It comes up to temp very quickly. Faster than engine oil. Once it's at 180 deg or so it stabilizes. On the track it will climb higher but not as high as engine or tranny oil presumably due to the cooler.







Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Tomas, still stock radiator and no extra oil cooler correct?

How are the brakes holding up? OEM calipers and ducts correct?

Finally, the EFR spool, sounds like it might even be better than a GTX2867/GT2871 with the flow capability above a GTX3076.
Ron davis rad and relatively large oil cooler. Bigger than on the 3, IIRC it's a 20K BTU unit. See bottom right corner of second pic in case you missed it earlier in the thread.
I am currently on the EBC yellows. The first 3 sessions they did ok. By the fourth one I had to almost press the pedal down all the way to get braking power. I have Evo 8 calipers and rotors ready to go in but my road rim won't fit over them so I am waiting till I need new tires to get another set of 17" NT03s to go with the new street tires. Then comes the BBK.

As to the 7163 yes. It really is a fantastic turbo. It just excels. The compressor design is geared toward a wide map (flow range) instead of high efficiency at high boost pressures which gives you a very fat power band - unlike most other turbos which are really more suited to diesel engines. I.e. high boost for low reving engines.







Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Are the t-case temps high because the coolant temps are high in general? Probably due to running a FMIC. My coolant temps are like 20 degrees lower but I have nothing in the way of the radiator.
Your first guess is correct going by how the temps rise when cold. Like mentioned in my reply to 06speed6, the temps on the t-case rise quickly but don't go much higher than their stabilized temp point. More than likely that's due to the large "heat exchanging" effect of the cooler.
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
As to the 7163 yes. It really is a fantastic turbo. It just excels. The compressor design is geared toward a wide map (flow range) instead of high efficiency at high boost pressures which gives you a very fat power band - unlike most other turbos which are really more suited to diesel engines. I.e. high boost for low reving engines.
Yiss...


Edit: The 9180s have the most incredible map I've ever seen.
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 Old 01-11-2015, 10:18 PM   #95
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Holy gauges lol.

The is probably fine at that temp, I'm just surprised it's 25* hotter than the coolant. The trans temp is the one ide be worried about, 270 is about the maximum practical temp for most severe duty synthetic gear oils. Since you have a gauge for the trans, you might try swapping trans fluids to see if you can find one that brings the temps down a few degrees.
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 Old 01-12-2015, 06:12 AM   #96
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I talked to Motul and they said 270 degs is not a problem for the oil. A small cooler with a transfer pump is always an option however. The problem I am having now is space. Things are starting to get cramped around the bumper.

I could use one of those heavy weight red line oils but not sure the synchros are gonna like that.

Originally Posted by Enki View Post
[/IMG]

Edit: The 9180s have the most incredible map I've ever seen.
Hmmm. That turbo is way too big IMO. You'd have to keep the engine reving above 4.5K at all times on the track in order to keep it spooling. Not really something I'd want to do.
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 Old 01-12-2015, 06:27 AM   #97
 
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Time to pull the AC and relocate the alternator.
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 Old 01-12-2015, 07:22 AM   #98
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You could also go to a heavier trans oil to help with the heat.
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 Old 01-12-2015, 10:48 AM   #99
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Hmmm. That turbo is way too big IMO. You'd have to keep the engine reving above 4.5K at all times on the track in order to keep it spooling. Not really something I'd want to do.
I didn't mean for our cars, I just meant in general.
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 Old 02-28-2015, 08:23 PM   #100
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Installed the stiff EFR wastegate actuator. Running about 26 psi. Log attached.
Todays ambient temps at the track hovered around the mid 80's. Coolant temps went up to 238 degs most of the time. At one point they were 241.
Oil got up to 260 degs at one point.
T-case stabilized at around 255 degs.
Rear diff as always runs pretty cool. I don't think it broke 200.

I need to do something about the coolant temps which should also help lower the oil temps. I think I am going to install a secondary cooling circuit for the engine coolant like I did on the 3 but a lil different. I am thinking of using a long and narrow rad right above the lower louvers on the bottom of the front bumper.

Might also try some stiffer springs. At 425 lbs front and 350 lbs rear the car still leans like a motherfucker.

Other than that the whip did great today. There wasn't much on the track I wasn't able to pass















The GF took an iphone vid of two of the corners on the track.




in slow motion. lol. Fire balls at second 47.


This is how the car leans in the turn in the vid above. Fuckin-a its a lot. Doing about 90 mph in 5fth.



Attached Files
File Type: csv Tomas -MS6.csv (12.4 KB, 8 views)
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 Old 02-28-2015, 09:03 PM   #101
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The car needs a fuckton more spring and bar compared to stock to make it half ass decent. Even at literally double your spring rates, there's a good bit of roll. No great way to go about it, but springs are simple, and more bar is possible if you want to fab it yourself.
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 Old 02-28-2015, 09:41 PM   #102
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Yes it does.
I just need to find a solution for take-apart dampers for the front.
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 Old 02-28-2015, 09:48 PM   #103
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Shaikh offered to convert mine to take apart, so I'm guessing it can be done with any Bilstein. I didn't (still don't) have the time to mess with that, so I declined.
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 Old 02-28-2015, 10:38 PM   #104
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Love the updates as always. Try running the car richer at peak torque since you have lots of injector headroom. That should also help with cooling.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 05:55 AM   #105
 
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Lol at those spring rates, I am running 1000 front/600 rear. FFS, gay ass Miatas start at 700/450.

The ECT's are crazy, yesterday in 45-ish degree weather my BAT's were 183 max and ECT's were 193 max, running 21 psi of boost. I have no idea if, with all the extra stuff on top of engine, it is possible for you to slap on a TMIC and see what the ECT's would be.

It would probably be a good idea to buy a new condenser and install a mesh in the front to protect it from debris. A few months ago I did not make a turn and went farming, the whole front grill was full of grass because the mesh kept all the grass in, out of curiosity I kept on driving and after one lap the ECT's were 223 and climbing -- no airflow through the radiator. I bet this is exactly what your FMIC and old condenser do to ECT's.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 08:57 AM   #106
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It's a big difference when ambient air temp drops from 80s to mid 40s.
And also if you rev to 6500 or just 6000.
If I slow down and shift at 6K and run only 22 psi or of boost the temps immediately drop down from mid 230s to 215 or os. I mean it only takes 30-45 seconds.
Yes. The FMIC and clogged condenser definitely don't help. I might just scrape all the fins away on the condenser on the lower rows before replacing it. That will probably be even better than a new one. If the AC ends up suffering to the point where it won't cool then I can always get a new one.

How compliant is the ride on regular roads with your 1000/600 spring combo? Is it pretty unbearable? I would also probably not have such a large difference between front and rear. If I go with stiffer springs I would keep the difference front to rear to a max of about 100 lbs. So I if used 700 front springs I'd use 600 in the rear. That's IMO still in the safe zone as far as oversteer.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 09:08 AM   #107
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
How compliant is the ride on regular roads with your 1000/600 spring combo? Is it pretty unbearable? I would also probably not have such a large difference between front and rear. If I go with stiffer springs I would keep the difference front to rear to a max of about 100 lbs. So I if used 700 front springs I'd use 600 in the rear. That's IMO still in the safe zone as far as oversteer.
I had 850/600 at first and ride was better than stock (my mom actually commented on how good it was when I took her to lunch once, lol). Firm, but nothing that resembled harsh. I went to 700 rears and it made the ride a little worse, but still completely dd'able. I'm going to an 800 rear spring next week, so we'll see. I don't expect it to be bad.

Shock valving will make or break it.

I think keeping spring rates close to each other, front and rear, is a good idea just in terms of over/understeer bias. With the worthless rear bar motion ratio, the front bias is hard to overcome.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 10:36 AM   #108
 
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The ride is pretty harsh on mine. But I requested a racecar setup with no compromises for DD'ind the car.

My rev limiter is set to 7000, which means on the tach I see about ~7300. I am thinking about moving the limiter to 7200, there are a few spots where a higher red line would benefit me.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 11:10 AM   #109
 
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What size intake is that, and are you running aux fueling? 360 g/s at 4.8 volts...
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 Old 03-01-2015, 12:47 PM   #110
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3"
and yes.
4 additional injectors.
see earlier posts.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 01:34 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
3"
and yes.
4 additional injectors.
see earlier posts.

Is that a true 3" housing on the MAF or a 2.87" ID pipe? Trying to gauge what the 7163 is really flowing at 26psi. Tuning a couple of these on the Focus ST and the more data the better.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 01:45 PM   #112
 
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If it helps, my 6758 is flowing 4.2 volts on a treadstone 3.5" (3.3x?") at 21 psi.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 04:22 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Is that a true 3" housing on the MAF or a 2.87" ID pipe? Trying to gauge what the 7163 is really flowing at 26psi. Tuning a couple of these on the Focus ST and the more data the better.
it is in fact a 2.87" ID.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 04:57 PM   #114
 
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Is it the Full-Race intake? Seems like you could use bigger.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 05:06 PM   #115
 
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I think FullRace is 3.5". FWIW, yesterday on my 2.87" ID I was flowing 360 g/s @ 4.59 maf voltage.
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 Old 03-01-2015, 05:09 PM   #116
 
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When I was down there, all they had for the genwon was a 3" intake. I wound up having to fab my own: First Gen EFR Intake
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 Old 03-02-2015, 07:52 AM   #117
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Mine is a modified OEM MAzdaspeed CAI. It has a 3" pipe with a reducing sleeve inside for the MAF sensor.
I cut it up to make it a SRI. So in a way it's just a Mazdaspeed MAF housing.
Might remove the inner sleeve at some point to make it a true 3".
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 Old 03-02-2015, 11:10 AM   #118
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Mine is a modified OEM MAzdaspeed CAI. It has a 3" pipe with a reducing sleeve inside for the MAF sensor.
I cut it up to make it a SRI. So in a way it's just a Mazdaspeed MAF housing.
Might remove the inner sleeve at some point to make it a true 3".

I am surprised you haven't hit MAF cut at those boost levels. The warm weather certainly helps. I am also finding out that while the EFR transient response is better than anything out there, their higher boost efficiency is a little bit below Garrett competition.
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Last edited by Lex; 03-02-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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 Old 03-03-2015, 05:35 PM   #119
 
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Love the cooling mods and discussion. Can you describe the operation and plumbing of the aux oil cooler more? What are you thinking for the aux cooling circuit and extra radiator?
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 Old 03-04-2015, 09:25 AM   #120
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good to know that you don't warp the head with those coolant temps. I'd be scurred running that hard at the track like that.
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