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 Old 03-04-2015, 01:43 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by cnyms6 View Post
Love the cooling mods and discussion. Can you describe the operation and plumbing of the aux oil cooler more? What are you thinking for the aux cooling circuit and extra radiator?
See last post below for gheyness.

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 Old 03-04-2015, 06:47 PM   #122
 
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Very cool extra radiator and circuit. Very clever to avoid the need for another expansion tank and other complexity.

Are you willing to share your design genius on the aux oil cooler also? I was under the impression that these were two separate systems, but I'm slow.
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 Old 03-05-2015, 06:11 AM   #123
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You are correct, they are two separate systems.
You can find more info on the oil cooler set up here in in post 47 here

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 Old 03-07-2015, 06:56 AM   #124
 
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so many fins! Have you done any investigation to look for ways to increase air through the coolers?

These guys have a simple testing based approach to map differential pressures on the underbody (AutoSpeed - Undertrays, Spoiler & Bonnet Vents, Part 3) and found simple and inexpensive ways to increase air flow through the fins and out of the engine bay. I'm planning to try this once my car is back running.

But since you'll be in the heat sooner, thought either you'd be interested, or have already done similar.

Seems cooling capacity is going to be the limiting factor for power in track use of these cars. When we double the power, we also double the heat rejection. Even much higher power street cars do not reject heat for long periods like even low power track use.
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 Old 03-09-2015, 06:28 PM   #125
 
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Originally Posted by cnyms6 View Post
so many fins! Have you done any investigation to look for ways to increase air through the coolers?

These guys have a simple testing based approach to map differential pressures on the underbody (AutoSpeed - Undertrays, Spoiler & Bonnet Vents, Part 3) and found simple and inexpensive ways to increase air flow through the fins and out of the engine bay. I'm planning to try this once my car is back running.

But since you'll be in the heat sooner, thought either you'd be interested, or have already done similar.

Seems cooling capacity is going to be the limiting factor for power in track use of these cars. When we double the power, we also double the heat rejection. Even much higher power street cars do not reject heat for long periods like even low power track use.


Not trying to insult anyone's intelligence here, but just for the sake of discussion:

Typical rule of thumb for a track car is to duct the radiator (as much high pressure pre radiator as possible) and vent the engine bay via the hood, venders... (creating as much low pressure in the engine bay as possible).

Basically, these pressure differentials are what "force feed" air through the intercooler / radiator, and actually improve the efficiency with which the heat is extracted from it. What makes this tricky in the case of the speed, is the stock setup is designed to plumb outside air into the engine bay for the TMIC. Really I imagine just blocking those vents off in the first place might be enough to make a large difference to underhood pressure if you haven't already. The next step would be just trying to duct the front as much as possible I guess to hit the pressure differential from that side ... Theres just going to come a point where shit is going to run hot though, the stock cooling system is not great ... even high horsepower street cars over heat. I had a guy I was tuning running mid 500's whp on a Gen2 and his coolant temps would get into the 250s doing street runs (couple of 3rd - 5th pulls against people) while we were out tuning.


Edit: I actually just realized I was proving my own point. We had the stock tmic duct wide open, just dumping air into the engine bay ... Pressure differentials. Here's where things really get tricky though; on my gen 2, I distinctly remember coolant temps being affected like 3-5 degrees having the tmic ducting in tact and directing air to the valve cover (when fmic) as opposed to just leaving it out and having the air just blow about.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 12:59 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by cnyms6 View Post
so many fins! Have you done any investigation to look for ways to increase air through the coolers?

These guys have a simple testing based approach to map differential pressures on the underbody (AutoSpeed - Undertrays, Spoiler & Bonnet Vents, Part 3) and found simple and inexpensive ways to increase air flow through the fins and out of the engine bay. I'm planning to try this once my car is back running.

But since you'll be in the heat sooner, thought either you'd be interested, or have already done similar.

Seems cooling capacity is going to be the limiting factor for power in track use of these cars. When we double the power, we also double the heat rejection. Even much higher power street cars do not reject heat for long periods like even low power track use.
I remember reading that article a few years back and totally forgot about it.
Will conduct some test soon.
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Progressive / 2 step from 200 lbs to 2000 lbs. That's right. Thats two billion motherfucking pounds. Surprisingly, they feel pretty good. Really not harsh at all. They are 10.5" tall and the lower spring rate part is completly compressed so I am thinking they are mostly working in the 2000 lbs range. The car now has almost zero squat. Haven't taken it to the track to see how it behaves but will soon. Probably need to increase rebound (decrease rebound bleed) for the bils in the rear. That's the beauty of having take aparts. It takes time but you can tune in yo shit at least.




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Next in line I am going to try to convert the OE Bilsteins for the front into take apart meself. I have some ideas now on what needs to be done.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 01:43 PM   #127
 
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Interested to see how you incorporate those strappy heels with your higher spring rates.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 03:56 PM   #128
 
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Lemme know if you need help or advice on the takeapart/ conversion of the bils. I just successfully did this with my koni's.

Also, about those springs... at what compression point does coil bind/ spring destruction happen on those? Those are some wide coil loops.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 04:10 PM   #129
 
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Enjoy the 4.5 / 5.0 Hz frequencies, should have poured a custom mouth guard while you were at it.... Also, invest in an under hood fire suppressant system, you know what happens when the hard fuel line vibrates too much..... I look forward toward your impressions.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 06:18 PM   #130
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awesome!
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 Old 03-30-2015, 08:08 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by Mauro_Penguin View Post
Interested to see how you incorporate those strappy heels with your higher spring rates.
Yes. Apparently I am a cordwainer now. I repaired my GF's shoes once with my micro nail gun. Her sister found out about it, and just like that dropped of a pair of shoes in my garage for me to repair. What the fuck I tell you.

Originally Posted by zenit View Post
Lemme know if you need help or advice on the takeapart/ conversion of the bils. I just successfully did this with my koni's.

Also, about those springs... at what compression point does coil bind/ spring destruction happen on those? Those are some wide coil loops.
Well yes. I can use some help. Why don't you make a thread if you haven't already done so?

The point of coil bind for the 2k part of the spring is lower than the hard bump stop for the LCA. In other words, if the hard rubber stop makes contact, the spring will not be fully compressed yet.

Originally Posted by Code Monkey View Post
Enjoy the 4.5 / 5.0 Hz frequencies, should have poured a custom mouth guard while you were at it.... Also, invest in an under hood fire suppressant system, you know what happens when the hard fuel line vibrates too much..... I look forward toward your impressions.
You can't calculate a frequency like that for progressive springs.
When the car dives during braking, and the rear end gets unloaded, the soft part of the spring comes into action. In other words you don't have to worry about the rear end trying to overtake you and kill your arse when you enter a corner while braking.
The stiff part of the spring comes into play during acceleration and partially during cruising. Also of course when you hit bumps.
The idea here is that on corner entry you won't get a very strong oversteer effect like you would have on a linear say 1000 lbs spring. On corner exit however, when you load the rear, you get the stiff part of the spring coming into action creating corner exit oversteer which is really what I am looking for. Not easy to achieve on AWD vehicles but we'll see. That's the idea at least. Have to admit I got zero proof that's what's gonna happen but experimenting is the whole point.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 08:22 PM   #132
 
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Whatever, where are pictures of the gf and gf's sister?
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 Old 03-30-2015, 09:34 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Yes. Apparently I am a cordwainer now. I repaired my GF's shoes once with my micro nail gun. Her sister found out about it, and just like that dropped of a pair of shoes in my garage for me to repair. What the fuck I tell you.
good stuff up in here I tell ya. I need some of that pour-able urethane to use on my stiffy tower mount...what did you use?

and if you tell me what you used I'll tell you a similar story to your "shoe repair" story above.

back story is, the wife is always "taking shoes to shoe repair" this week and again a few weeks later...with another pair of course...she has like 100...anyway, so one day she is bitching about yet another trip to get a 1/8th" rubber tip put onto the heel of a pair...I mistakenly commented that I could cut a piece off a sheet I have, contact cement that bitch on and tack it with a brad for good measure...her eyes widened....you already know how the rest of this story goes...hahahaha

I will say my repairs hold up much longer than "shoe repair's" do...I think I'll open up the shop on weekends for the neighborhood MILFs to drop by for a "repair". (que 70s porn music)

keep the good stuff coming.
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 Old 03-30-2015, 09:37 PM   #134
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
que 70s porn music
Speaking of, still waiting for thread title to come to fruition.
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 Old 03-31-2015, 05:18 AM   #135
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
I need some of that pour-able urethane to use on my stiffy tower mount...what did you use?
You can use Flexane.
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 Old 03-31-2015, 06:20 AM   #136
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DEVCON Flexane 80 liquid is what I used.
And Dano.
No ones here believes you are married.
Everyone knows you are an incognito Catholic Bishop with a tendency to invite alter boys for a ride in your wagon.

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 Old 03-31-2015, 07:40 AM   #137
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Thanks for the tip...and I that last comment couldn't be further from the truth my son.
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 Old 03-31-2015, 08:26 AM   #138
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
DEVCON Flexane 80 liquid is what I used.
And Dano.
No ones here believes you are married.
Everyone knows you are an incognito Catholic Bishop with a tendency to invite alter boys for a ride in your wagon.

False you just have to make sure the fat one is on the bottom.




Unless you are into necrophilia.
Also guarantee the fat one will let you do ass to mouth.




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 Old 03-31-2015, 01:40 PM   #139
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I have a phobia against asphyxiation.
If she decides to flip from the bottom. I'd die of fear alone.
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 Old 03-31-2015, 01:49 PM   #140
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I threw up in my mouth just reading EBs post....
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 Old 03-31-2015, 02:14 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
I threw up in my mouth just reading EBs post....
Be glad I censored my self in an attempt to keep things on topic.
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 Old 03-31-2015, 02:28 PM   #142
 
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Originally Posted by Easter Bunny View Post
Be glad I censored my self in an attempt to keep things on topic.
Since when has that stopped you?
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Dash08: I don't see the whole pedophile thing, But Predapio is a dirty old bastard. So, I wouldn't rule it out entirely.
That's also why he fits in here. We're all a bunch of filthy, perverted, arrogant, pessimistic, self-righteous assholes who find entertainment at other peoples expense.
What a lovable bunch we are!!
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 Old 03-31-2015, 03:35 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by predapio View Post
Since when has that stopped you?
You would be surprised/frightened by the shit I type and then don't post.
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 Old 03-31-2015, 09:37 PM   #144
 
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 Old 04-01-2015, 05:59 AM   #145
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What the fuck is an rzmzmzm girl?
can you climb a pole?
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 Old 04-01-2015, 08:16 AM   #146
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Ok...i'm slow but I think I just spotted Waldo in this post...lol

totally missed it the 1st time around even with Mauro's comment.


#shoerepair



Originally Posted by Tomas View Post


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 Old 04-01-2015, 09:37 AM   #147
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
also in this one

edit: also @Tomas; you need to cut back on the smoking
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 Old 04-01-2015, 04:28 PM   #148
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Fuck dude.
That, drinking and fucking around with cars are the only things left I still unconditionally enjoy in life.
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 Old 04-01-2015, 05:27 PM   #149
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Fuck dude.
That, drinking and fucking around with cars are the only things left I still unconditionally enjoy in life.
uhh masturbating?
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 Old 04-03-2015, 04:47 AM   #150
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not even close.
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 Old 04-03-2015, 05:31 AM   #151
 
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When you begin testing with your magnehelic toy, would you please confirm that the slotted vent in drivers wheel well exhausts into the wheel well at all normal speeds?
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 Old 04-03-2015, 09:05 PM   #152
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yes
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 Old 04-04-2015, 04:38 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
not even close.
How could someone be so bad at jerking off as to not enjoy it?
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 Old 04-05-2015, 06:08 AM   #154
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You grossly underestimate my ability to excel at incompetence.
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 Old 04-05-2015, 10:06 PM   #155
 
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Tomas, I learn quite a bit of useful things in your threads, but your anecdotes keep me coming back for more.
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 Old 05-16-2015, 03:07 PM   #156
 
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When you fit the 7163 and EFR manifold, did you need to cut back one of the manifold studs? And maybe clock the compressor a bit more than vertical to clear the valve cover vent? Did you need to do anything else to get it to fit?
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 Old 06-11-2015, 11:59 AM   #157
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Yes. I had to grind to stud closest to the drivers side IIRC. And clocking of the compressor housing is also necessary.
Other then that I have a custom down pipe with cast elbow and flex pipe so I couldn't tell you if the full rape DP fits without a problem.
Intake should be very straight forwward.
The oil drain line for the terboh will also need to be custom made.
The OEM oil feed line works. You just have to bend it a bit so it points toward the turbo oil inlet port.
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 Old 06-12-2015, 06:09 AM   #158
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Changed covers on the Corbeau seat and removed the 2000 lbs progressive springs. They were a bit too much.
Also the strut plate isolators failed miserably. Guess I should have laid shims on the studs and then pour the urethane just a hair line thicker than the shims.

I was also able to convert the front bills to take-aparts. Shit if I had known if was this easy I would just have gotten the OTS bills for the rear as well instead of the race shocks. Oh well.

Bilstein Race Shocks for the 6







I am not really a fan of the helper spring set up. There is definitely an increase in harshness as opposed to two rate/ progressive springs. As of now I don't have a better solution however since the progressive springs I've found in 2.5" ID have 450 lbs at the most.

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 Old 06-12-2015, 09:21 AM   #159
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aren't helper springs only there to keep the main spring locked in place when you jack the car up? ie. they are fully compressed when the car is on the ground?
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 Old 06-12-2015, 10:51 AM   #160
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That is partially correct.
If you go through a bump where the suspension compresses and then decompresses to the point where the helper spring starts to decompress, when the main spring comes down and drops on the helper spring after that, it can get harsh.
Not a problem on a race car.
Can be annoying on a DD.
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