Dildo Blitz

[grantmm]

Is that a CR1 Corbeau?

[Tomas]

No. TRS.

[cnyms6]

I can't find a part no. for the MS3 PS pump elbow you used. can you help?
Thanks,

PS any update on aero flow from magnehelic testing?

[Tomas]

It's called "suction pipe" by Mazda on the MS3 manual.
I will post the results of the magnehelic soon.

[Mazdazilla6]

This is my new favorite build thread

[Enki]

It's because of the title, right? That's what got me too.

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Tomas It's called "suction pipe" by Mazda

I can't tell if you are serious or just making a sexual inuendo. Being you I'm assuming the latter.

[Tomas]

Good one. But no. It really is.
Apropos nothing at all my elbow is fucked.





and got bit by bed bugs in Los Angeles.
At the Double Tree Hotel in Carson. Room 225. Don't stay there.
This is just a few of the 30 or bites I got.

[Amnesiac]

Can you pop that like a huge pimple?

[btstarcher]

The fuck you do to your elbow?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Code Monkey]

^ Too much fapping.

[802MS3]

Holy shit.

Hope you got some tips from @predapio;

[Tokay444]

Hematoma. You can't pop it like a pimple per say, but you can slice it with a scalpel and have a nice big blood clot clog your drain.
Ask me how I know.

[Tomas]

Its not a hematoma. It's bursitis due to a spur at the end of the bone of the elbow.
I am scheduled for surgery on the 11th.
They are supposed to clip the bone and reattach the tip of the tricep back to the bone with a titanium anchor. Or something like that.

And while I am at it I'll issue an update.
Changed rear springs to progressive 250/500 in the rear and the front stock bar to the racing beat one. I experimented with 600 lbs springs in the front and it was just too much for daily driving. At least for my recalcitrant puffta arse. I've always preferred the big bar soft spring set up over small bar big spring anyway. So the fronts will stay with the 450 lbs springs for the moment. I like the ride.



Fucked up the passenger side CV joint boot at the track. I don't know why this always happens to me at the track. This is the first one on the MS6 but I went through like 3 on the MS3. Oh well it's a 150K mile car so I guess these are bound to go.



Also installed the Speed63 rad controller with an on/off switch. That way I only engage it at the track. This is due to the fan not running unless the temps hit the trigger point on the pods of the controller. I.e. the fans don't cool down the condenser like OEM unless the coolant temps climb above the trigger point. Anyway, temps still climbed to 242 at one point. The temps climb slower than with the OEM logic but the fans still can't keep up with the heat being generated by the engine. That leaves me 3 options. A turn down the wick (somewhere less than 26 psi) B. Not run in the summer or C, install an additional radiator. It will be B or C.





Also corner weighed the car. I weigh 210 lbs so with a 3/4 tank, spare tire and all other standard equipment, the 6 currently weighs approx. 3460 lbs.



Moded the caliper tool kit I got so I can reverse the pistons on the rear calipers.







Sebring was hot and full of love bugs. These bugs only live around middle Florida and although they don't bite, they are highly annoying. For whatever reason they are also attracted to either the heat from the car, or the exhaust gases.





Still leans quite a bit.

[Mauro_Penguin]

That looks painful.

Lesson of the day, stay the hell out of LA.

[Tokay444]

Yeah that's worse than a hemoatoma.

[grantmm]

Geeze, man. You went full Val Kilmer. Never go full Val Kilmer.

[Tomas]

Is that from HEAT?
That was a great flick.

[Mazdazilla6]

Originally Posted by Tomas Also corner weighed the car. I weigh 210 lbs so with a 3/4 tank, spare tire and all other standard equipment, the 6 currently weighs approx. 3460 lbs.

Jesus that's light for that much weight in it. What have you done as far as weight reduction? Is your car a sport model?

[Tomas]

Yes it is. No leather or GPS or non of that.
For weight reduction all I've done is driver's side racing seat and eliminating all the dynamic dampeners on the suspension components. IMO those things don't do a damn thing.
Of course a side effect of the manifold, EFR turbo, DP and FMIC is that these things weigh less than the stock components they replaced.

[Enki]

I don't know about that...the FR mani is a heavy bitch.

[Voltwings]

We have love bugs in Houston, I was finding those bastards in my car for like 3-4 days after our event lol, Be driving to work and all of the sudden there's 2-3 flying around in the car -_-

[Tomas]

All those things do all day is fuck.

[Tomas]

Separate thread created for fail on turbo inlet gasket.

Turbine Inlet Copper gaskets

And also found the source of the boost leak.

[Tomas]

Most of the damage from the last track day is now repaired.
For the turbine inlet gasket I bought a small sheet of Inconel 713 and had the T25 gasket water jet cut. This should hold fairly well. Inconel has excellent heat cycle properties. Didn’t really like the copper and graphite gasket option. Also replaced the 90 deg. Elbow at the turbo outlet to a pipe bend.





For the passenger side drive shaft I started taking it apart to replace the boot but then let it be. There is a snap ring that holds the shaft to the outer CV joint and there is no way of reinstalling it after taking it apart. So I went ahead and got a new shaft from ebay for $100.



Added some small deflectors to the rear hubs to push some air for the rear brake rotors. Tried with brake ducting first but didn’t get anywhere. Its just too busy back there to route some proper ducting.








Next I revalved the rear dampers again by increasing high speed damping. Turned out to be too much. I then softened it up and increased low speed damping (decreased bleed) and the rear end feels much better now.

My elbow got fixed too although it’s been sensitive to impacts and is still stiff.



Next project I am debating on is a RMR. That’s a rear mounted radiator. Should be super ghey. I think it can be done. The biggest limiting factor on the car right now is cooling. I am hoping I can use cooler fluid to both cool the Tcase and engine oil further.

Finally, the pressure measurements taken with the magnehelic gauge.

MS6 FD side behind fog lamps 0.5” H2O @ 80 MPH
MS6 Front between radiator and IM also 0.5” at 80 MPH
The MS3 showed the same readings inside the engine bay with the exception of the inside of the shroud for the TMIC. I got a whopping 1.2” of H2O at 80 MPH in there. That shows that the ram air effect of the shroud for the TMIC does work to a small degree.

[zenit]

Originally Posted by Tomas Next I revalved the rear dampers again by increasing high speed damping. Turned out to be too much. I then softened it up and increased low speed damping (decreased bleed) and the rear end feels much better now.

What's your source for shims? I've searched, called around for bilstien shims before, but never found anyone that would sell me shims or seals. This info would probably make @xfeejayx; very happy.


Also, have you seen this article from motoiq?

[Tomas]

I called the Billstein motorsports division and they hooked me up with their local dealer here in south Florida. I purchased the shims from him and they were drop shipped from Bilstein to my address.

[Voltwings]

There's a few time attack evos running around with rear mounted radiators. Pretty crazy.

[Tomas]

Yup. Mine will be more discreet however. And not that big.

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by zenit What's your source for shims? I've searched, called around for bilstien shims before, but never found anyone that would sell me shims or seals. This info would probably make @xfeejayx; very happy. Also, have you seen this article from motoiq?

So i know with brake ducts we're wanting to aim towards the hub to get the air to pump out the veins. That S2k, along with the speeds, dont have veins in the rear ... would just pumping air onto the back side of the rotor cause issues? Obviously some cooling is better than none, and i guess since there's no giant separation between two halves you dont have to worry about uneven cooling?

[Easter Bunny]

the rotors in that photo are vented. I think the idea is that if you are getting some cool air towards the center of the rotor, it will lower the average temperature of what is being pumped through the veins. also creating a higher pressure on the inside of the wheel will aid in pushing the hot air out of the wheel.

Is it ideal? not at all. is it way better than not doing anything? yes

[Tomas]

I need some input on my planned modifications to the cooling water circuit. I think there is a risk that when stage 3 (Stage Full Homo) is engaged, that the low temp cooling water flowing through the top of the thermostat might cause it to close if the cooling water inside the radiator isn't hot enough to keep it open.
This might not be an easy concept to grasp so I made an awesome drawing. If you have questions ask.

This is how the stock system works:

Water exits the head and goes in 5 directions from the manifold. On the MS3 it goes in 6 directions but we will only look at the MS6.

1. To the heater core. 5/8" line
2. Unobstructed straight back to the thermostat housing. 5/8" line
3. To the turbo through the port on the EGR valve or block off plate. 1/4" line
4. To the TB if you don't have it blocked off. 1/4" line
5. To the rad.

Water does not flow through the heater core unless you turn on the heater from the cabin. Water from the EGR valve port goes to the turbo and from there straight to the T-case. This is obviously less than ideal unless you want to heat up the T-case oil at a rapid rate. I don't see a reason to do this so I will be re-routing the water exiting the turbo to the main return line of the heater core. I will also use the TB port on the manifold to shoot cooling water directly into the T-case. From there water will exit back to the return line of the heater core same as stock. The RMSCC (pronounced "Armsissy" cuz it soundz awesome and which stands for Rear Mounted Secondary Cooling Circuit) will be plumbed with Y fittings between the feed and return lines of the heater core.

This is how the modified circuit and it's stages will work:

Stage Cute: Solenoid valve in normally closed position opens and feeds RMSCC.
Stage Ghey: Booster water pump engages and increases flow through RMSCC for more gheyness.
Stage Full Homo: This is where it gets dangerous. This stage closes the flow of the always open water circuit between the head and the water pump for when the thermostat is closed. As the water heats up it flows by the thermostat and opens it up and then mixes with colder water coming off the radiator. If you close this circuit while the water in the rad is cold, I.e. the thermostat hasnt opened yet, then there is a chance the water that runs through the RMSCC will be so cooled down by the time it gets back to the thermostat that it will prohibit the thermostat from opening. It could be the water exiting the head will meanwhile be so fucking hot that things might start to fail. Am I looking at this the right way? Or should this not be a concern?
@Ziggo; come out of our Miata themed closet and help me with my shit you faggot.

Stock Circuit



Modified Circuit with RMSCC

[Enki]

Can you get your 2x 3/4" solenoids into a 3 way and run it at a varying duty cycle depending on temps? That should fix the potential issue by giving both some water at the same time.

[Tomas]

I am afraid that would not solve the issue.

[Enki]

Then add another solenoid normally closed to bypass rad water around the tsat, going directly into the heater hose return...?

Or, get rid of the tstat altogether and use just solenoids to control flow.

Personally, I'll be running an electric pump with no tstat or restrictors and will be doing testing to see how to most effectively leverage an electric water pump on this platform.

[Tomas]

Those options would work.
I am just not sure how practical they would be.
Are you going to make a special adapter for your e-pump or whats your plan? An e-pump is definitely an interesting idea. How will flow be controlled? Manually or temp based? Will you use a controller?

[Enki]

I'm actually exploring the idea of stuffing a microsquirt into the CS battery box which has yet to ship, and using the temp based IAC circuit to control it. I want to tie in a MAP sensor so when the boost hits it ramps up the DC on the pump but I'm a ways off figuring that out.

Also someone is making me a tstat bypass plate; the pump will be mounted remotely.

[Easter Bunny]

Yes your proposal appears to be pushing cooled water at the thermostat which would keep it from ever opening.

[cnyms6]

As always, your creativity is very entertaining and educational. I think the cold water bypass concern can be eliminated with controls, especially if you set up your controls to essentially turn the RMSCC on/off based on a temperature trigger in the radiator to tstat hose. Setting the temp switch to trigger on at a point where you are clearly driving flamboyantly and exceeding the rad capacity and to turn the RMSCC off when the radiator temperature is slightly above the tstat close temp would mean there is no chance of the tstat closing and cutting off all flow. You could use a TC and one of the auber gauges to control the entire circuit. I also think the normally closed solenoid is unnecessary. Control flow to the RMSCC with the pump only (flow-by should not really be a concern) and just have the normally open solenoid to shut off uncooled flow back to the tstat when max cooling is needed. The RMSCC is too small to overcool the fluid by itself. Your system is simply increasing the size of the radiator on those occasions when it needs to be bigger, a lot like radiator fan control logic.

[Tomas]

I like the idea of triggering the RMSCC solenoid via a temp gauge on the rad to t-stat hose. Gonna look into that. I also pretty much agree with everything you said with the exception of eliminating the normally closed solenoid. Yes, it is possible that it's unnecesary, but I have a feeling there is quite a bit of flow through that line since it has way shorter resistance/ flows more, than all other circuits except when the thermostat is fully open. Even when the t-stat in open, I believe there is still a lot of flow through that line since there is pretty much no resistance as opposed to the water being pushed / pulled through the rad and the RMSCC. The way I look at it is to only engage that solenoid when temps exceed 225 or so. Or may be also trigger it simultaneously with the RMSCC solenoid with the signal from the temp gauge on the rad to t-stat hose. It might give a on/off signal several time if the t-stat open and closes with the temp variations but I don't see a problem in that. It's possible the closed solenoid will not be needed with the RMSCC alone but while I am changing shit up I am thinking what the hell add it just in case. I can always just disconnect it if its not needed. If I am on the track and the RMSCC circuit alone can keep temps below 240 I would probably not engage it but I really wouldn't know till I track the car.