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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in!


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 Old 10-29-2014, 09:42 AM   #1
 
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Default Bad Leakdown

07 speed6 with 87k miles ive been burning oil pretty bad lately and instead of just topping my oil off between each time I drive it im ready to just fix it.

all 4 pistons were "damp" with oil, 1 and 4 being the worst, I would say im burning 2 qts of oil every 100-120 miles. I don't smoke at idle, I do however smoke on WOT and after decelerating in gear.

recently installed another ko4 with 40k miles and my oil consumption did not change, I do not have oil in my intake, turbo housing or by my throttle body and I still checked checked my PCV just because, it was good smh. while my intake manifold was off I went ahead and cleaned the valves that sh*t was nasty car idles and runs 1000x better lol

now for the bad news


on leakdown we did 100psi and I had 25% leakage and you could hear air within the crankcase via the oil cap, so I suppose that's ringlands? looking for opinions here and my safest and best route to go as im not looking to go bt or make "big Power" id be happy at 350.

safe to say if block is in good shape I can hone it and drop stock pistons in it? with maybe some k1 rods?

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 Old 10-29-2014, 10:32 AM   #2
 
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your shit is fucked up
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 Old 10-29-2014, 10:46 AM   #3
 
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ehhh time for a rebuild
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 Old 10-29-2014, 11:06 AM   #4
 
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Wouldn't Ring land issues show up on the compression test as well? The compression numbers don't make sense to me. For one thing, they are high considering you are burning that much oil (may be the equavlent to a wet test?). Also, the compression number and leakdown number trends don't see to match.

Agreed, seems your K04 isn't the issue. What would cause that much oil consumption without knocking compression way down? I assume you aren't leaving puddles anywhere?
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 Old 10-29-2014, 11:11 AM   #5
 
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motor does not leak a drop, its happier with burning it lol

I have no clue what my issues could be, this car fires up as soon as I turn the key, it doesn't bog down, and idles like a brand new car. I feel like something should be obvious here..
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 Old 10-29-2014, 11:27 AM   #6
 
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I've read a few threads here where people had oil usage issues and replacing the turbos didn't help. 2 qts in 100 miles is a heck of a lot of oil. In your shoes I'd probably save up and rebuild or you could always take it to a shop and let them diagnose.
It sure seems the speed6's like to show big problems around 85k miles, and I'm right around that mark too. Makes me nervous.

Good luck and keep us posted...
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 Old 10-29-2014, 11:40 AM   #7
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you're over thinking this man

pull the motor ... look at the #3 piston and its rings and the issue will become crystal clear
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 Old 10-29-2014, 12:40 PM   #8
 
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Ok so to clarify another question, k1 h beam. Rods on stock pistons? Sound logical? Not looking to make big power here
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 Old 10-29-2014, 01:48 PM   #9
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if if u are only after 350 why do any rod upgrade ? good tune and some bolt ons on e85 and done deal
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 Old 10-29-2014, 01:54 PM   #10
 
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I thought about that but then I kinda thought to myself I might as well spend the extra monies to get some better rods in case I go BT.. from my understand as long as the rods are 22.5 mm wrist pin then I will be fine.. but I also need to disassemble my block and verify the cyclinder wall isn't damaged to the point that I can get by with just honing it
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 Old 10-29-2014, 01:55 PM   #11
 
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If you are going to put stock pistons in it, figure out why you cracked a ring land before you break a new piston.
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 Old 10-29-2014, 02:01 PM   #12
 
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25% isn't bad. Considering I had over 40% and car drove fine just used some oil. My rings looked fine.

In my built I've used wiseco ots and Manley h beams. If you are going to build might as well plan for the future. I would not put stock pistons rods into a fully bolted car.
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 Old 10-29-2014, 02:07 PM   #13
 
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@stockms3 what was your problem then?

i guess i could do more research on aftermarket pistons, just not sure who to look towards, as peoples reviews are bias. im more on the side of wanted a DD speed with a nice stance an maybe one day down the road BT but until ill be ok with ko4 and some E85 lol
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 Old 10-29-2014, 02:24 PM   #14
 
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brownie, the problem is either:
you have no idea what you're doing
you have no idea what you want
you already know what you're going to do and just want someone to say you're doing the right thing. but even if they say you aren't, it doesn't matter because you're going to do it anyway.

you say in the OP that you don't want to go BT. but now you're saying you want forged rods in case you go BT.

you are asking for input for what to do, but now you say you don't want to read reviews because they're biased.

look, the shit isn't complicated. your engine is consuming oil. there are two options: you're leaking it or you're burning it. at that rate, you're burning it. there's one place to burn oil - your cylinders. there's one major way to get oil in the cylinders - through your piston rings. solution: replace pistons & rings.

you already diagnosed the issue. you know the solution. what the fuck are you doing wasting time here?
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 Old 10-29-2014, 02:43 PM   #15
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this thread shoulda been stopped at

burning 2 qts of oil every 120 miles and it doesnt leak .....


enter common sense


....the real question is this ..... did u just purchase this pile of shit ? if so ...go get your $ back
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 Old 10-29-2014, 03:26 PM   #16
 
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A few quick things I can think of, if you rebuild your motor you will not be able to keep the stock size pistons. Your block will have to bored to clean it up enough, which means larger pistons. You will need new main and rod bearings. If you go that far, new rods might as well go in. Bearings, rods, and pistons will run more than $1200. Then machining, cleaning and assembly will run another $700-900.
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