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 Old 06-14-2017, 04:42 PM   #1
 
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Default Burning oil, low compression, next steps

Alright so a couple days back I did my routine oil change (T6). This time, I was able to measure how much I took out, and it measured out to 3 qt's (in 5.5k miles + I have the spin on). Yes I know I'm stupid and careless for letting it get that low, and trust me that's not happening again.

Upon doing the oil change, I notice that there is oil buildup where my intake meets the turbo (I noticed it from under the car on the rubber coupler. My car is at 102k miles and this is likely the original K04. Additionally, there was no oil in the recirc hose from the BPV. However, I have seen absolutely no smoke on startup (possibly due to my having both the factory cats still in place).

From there I did a compression test. Not good.
#1 : 160
#2 : 140
#3 : 115
#4 : 150

I would imagine that with oil around the turbo combined with this compression that I would be losing oil faster than that. Now, I would also like to add that the spark plugs were clean, I'm not throwing any codes, and otherwise the car shows no signs of problems. At this point I've already braced myself for the worst (rebuilding + new turbo), but now I'm digging into alternatives. I know the factory injector seals don't last too long, but in the threads I've read it's not often suggested as a possible cause (why is that?). I suppose I'd like some insight based on current symptoms (or lack thereof). Again, other threads I've come across with even higher compression than mine often involve misfires or spiking fuel trims, neither of which I'm exhibiting. Thanks in advance.
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 Old 06-14-2017, 04:48 PM   #2
 
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I would perform a leak down test next.
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 Old 07-01-2017, 02:09 PM   #3
 
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Alright, so the leak-down tester I used belonged to my father and is likely 20 years old or so. Cylinders 1 and 4 were tested without issue, but 2 and 3 gave some problems. Putting a thin piece of rod down the plug hole and turning the crank until it was at its highest didn't produce any back-pressure (according to the gauge). So, for those 2 cylinders, I left them pressurized at 30 psi and turned the crank for an entire cycle and the results below are the highest they were able to hold constant. Anyway, this is what I found:

#1 : 92/96
#2 : 24/29
#3 : 9/29
#4 : 84/91

I'm assuming I'll just have to do it with another tester, but that's what happened. Again, I'd like to emphasize that aside from burning ~1 quart every 2.5k (ish) miles, the car appears and behaves fine.
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 Old 07-03-2017, 02:00 PM   #4
 
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Well given everything I've found and stated, the only things holding me back from fully accepting a rebuild is the fact that I'm not consuming as much oil as I think I would given that compression and leak-down (but I could be wrong) and the plugs were all clean.
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 Old 07-05-2017, 09:24 AM   #5
 
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I should've also noted that in cylinder 3's cycle, I could feel air coming from the oil cap. Upon further reading that can only mean rings. So at this point, I'm leaning towards just rebuilding it when I can get a 2nd car and swapping the turbo for an S3 or CS. If anyone has any comments or suggestions, I'm open to them.
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 Old 07-05-2017, 03:04 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by rachel stinson View Post
8 Reasons why oil burns:

1) Worn valve guides
2) Bad valve seals
3) Pressurized oil pan
4) Worn piston pan
5) Diagnostic the problem
6) Check the oil
7) Worn piston rings
8) Check the exhaust.

These are the reasons why oil burns and it is harmful to the vehicle.
Troll. GTFO.
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 Old 07-05-2017, 08:04 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
Troll. GTFO.
Nope, this is real.
I need to replace my piston pan, it's almost worn out, too
It's a serious problem.
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 Old 07-06-2017, 08:31 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by zenit View Post
Nope, this is real.
I need to replace my piston pan, it's almost worn out, too
It's a serious problem.
Think mine is acting up too. Where is the piston pan again? In the valve cavity or under the front right spark column? But don't forget to first "diagnostic the problem."
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 Old 07-06-2017, 10:27 AM   #9
 
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I think my problem is "6) Check the oil". No wonder I burn so much, I'm never checking that shit again. I'm never checking my exhaust either, especially if they mean hip checking, though I might stuff a $50 check into it, maybe that counts as "checking" though?
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 Old 07-08-2017, 02:06 PM   #10
 
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If thiz is serious, i ran into this only 3k miles on a fresh motor, turned out i had some ringlands let go, its common from alot of tuners ive talked too, almost had the exact same compression reading as you. Dropped in another motor, since i used a friendly garage, they didnt care about the aftermarket turbo and other parts n tune and sent me for another motor, this one broke in perfect, sitting at almost over 7k miles 160 across all 4, and barely burns anything. Sorry bud, but im gonna lean towards ringlands....so your rings took a shit.
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 Old 07-08-2017, 02:41 PM   #11
 
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Yep that's what I've concluded. I'm not disappointed about it really, I knew it was just a matter of time, and since I have no plans to ever sell this thing, I knew I'd have to rebuild it eventually.
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 Old 07-17-2017, 07:54 AM   #12
 
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Alright guys, I'd like some opinions. My engine needs a rebuild, and my turbo is smoking. I'm set on rebuilding the engine myself with my father and brother at the beginning of next summer (when I can get a 2nd car). I want this car to last for another 10 years for reasons which I don't think need justification, so here are my thoughts: I don't ever want to deal with a smoking turbo again. I don't have too much of a desire for BT power because FWD. However the BNR S1 to me is just too much money for stock power levels. To my understanding, the K04 rebuild kits out there don't permanently fix the smoking problem. Additionally, I'm assuming it isn't smart to toss a BT onto a freshly rebuilt engine, and therefore it's likely the turbo won't be replaced until a few months after the rebuild. While I don't want to go all out and buy all of the expensive things, money is not the limiting factor, rather it's long term reliability. Also, this car will remain my daily and I'd like it to remain child-friendly (still a family car). I feel like I'm kind of in awkward position here in where to go with my car. So for those that have been here before, if you had to do it again, what would you do?
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 Old 07-17-2017, 09:42 AM   #13
 
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As for Fwd, im not sure what you mean, or are you in a speed3? Otherwise your speed6 is Awd. Now to a turbo, Im running a rebuild with a Corksport turbo on, which between the s3 N corksport turbo they are pretty similar, Im not sure what power the s3 is good for, but my corksport turbo is good for between 250 and they say 450 but id say an easy 400 at least. MY tuner Will from Purple Drank tuning says the efficiency of the CS turbo just starts at around 21 psi which im holding at 22.5 all day, and my car is running great, and have put about 8k miles and that was with the fresh motor n this turbo off the bat. I think personally for the price, the corksport turbo is an awesome choice, for cost, power ability and spool up time. Dunno much about the s3 all i believe it does require alil more modification for the drop in, i may be wrong. But as far as stock power levels, you can go way above stock power levels with either of those turbos. And as far as rebuilding the k04 dont they are junk like that, if yoir absolutely sold on the k04 then buy a new one...but at that point id say go with the CS turbo or S3
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 Old 07-21-2017, 06:15 PM   #14
 
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In my opinion I would go with the closest equivalent turbo to the k04. If longevity is more of a factor then power, I would rebuild with stock components, pistons, rods, bearings etc. They are made more for longevity, while forged is more for power and can have adverse affects on the block.

What's your goals power wise?

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 Old 07-21-2017, 08:21 PM   #15
 
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Realistically I don't have much desire for more than 300 wheel. But at the same time, it's tough to justify $900 for an S1 when I can get an S3 for $1100. But the long plan is to keep the MS3 as the reliable family car. So maybe an S1 is the way to go. I'm gonna try cleaning the valves before a rebuild and redo the compression test.
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 Old 07-21-2017, 08:33 PM   #16
 
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If 300 wheel is all you want I would go back stock parts completely and s1. I can't justify the s3 when the s4 is like $150 more. Just my opinion

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 Old 07-21-2017, 09:36 PM   #17
 
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If you need long life and durability I would suggest researching piston alloys. My advice is to do Mahle 4032 pistons from SP63 (number in the name is for the alloy used in this case), Manley h beam rods, OEM headbolts or h11/L19 headstuds (NOT ARP2000), oem headgasket with new dowel pins, oem bearings for mains and rods, new oem valve seals, 65lb crower valve springs because they are cheap insurance if your high mileage valve springs have gotten softer with wear. At just over 100k they are likely fine but might as well do it while engine is apart since they are a wear item. Your OEM mainbolts can be re-used as well if they aren't stretched while is unlikely on k04. This combo should last 100k+ miles with proper assembly and maintenance and take 550whp+ if you want to step it up later. Make sure to get your injectors cleaned and tested by someone like InjectorRX in Houston, TX while engine is apart. Good luck.
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BT 5/1/2014 to STOCK AS FAWK!! as of 10/30/14
2009 MGM Mazdaspeed 3
GO: GTX2867R + Cp-e LTR Manifold + TiAL 44mm MVR EWG + Kozmic Dump Tube VTA'd / HTP 3.5" Intake / Cobb AP V2 / AT HPFP Internals / Treadstone TR8 FMIC / NGK Iridiums / Stratified EBCS / Bosch 3Bar MAP / M2 Catless 3" DP + HKS Hi-Power Exhaust
/ JBR 88a RMM, 80a PMM / TiAL QR BOV / Kozmic Primary EGR Delete + Kozmic Oil Feed & Return Lines
SHOW: Big TWM Type R knob / JBR Camber Arms / BC Racing BR Type Coilovers / MB Battles w/ 265/35/18 RS-R Meats / Stoptech Slotted Rotors & Hawk HPS Pads + SS Brake lines / Eonon D5151 Head Unit /
Cp-e Triple Gauge Pod / DG Motorsports CF Wing Extension
Tuned by Captain KR @ PD Tuning

2016 Current Setup: Cobb AP V3 / AT HPFP / TR8 FMIC / Coolant Bypass / lil JBR SRI & TIP / DM & JBR Trilogy Mounts / Stratified EBCS / M2 DP / NGK Iridium Plugs / GFB Respons BPV / DM EGR Delete / Kozmic Oil Feed / Pu Valve Cover + SP63 Breather + big K&N Vent filter / RP PCV Plate vented to Kozmic Catch Can / Whiteline 27mm RSB + Moog Endlinks / BSD & Baffle / Gino PNP Intake Mani + SURE TIGs + Corksport 3.5bar MAP & BeCuse Seals / Eonon GA5151F Android Head Unit / 2008+ RX8 Y-spoke wheels / Tuning in progress with 2.0t03speed (Ryan) @ PD Tuning
Parts to Install as of December 2016: FJ Turbo Kit w/ Underrouted hot pipe, T3 BW S360SX 60mm, TiAL MVR 44mm EWG VTA'd, JMF V1 Intake Manifold, Ramfab 4" Intake, Kozmic 6th Port Kit w/ 2200cc Injectors & Upgraded ITFP, Greddy Ti-C catback (Ricer rare special), ACT HD 6-Puck + Gen2 Transmission, TR1035 FMIC
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