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 Old 07-30-2016, 11:22 AM   #161
 
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Hey guys quick question for anyone who has ordered the shims from a dealer; it seems to me that the shims come in a pack of 4,but when I got mine there was only one in the bag, and the bag had a hole in it and was taped shut. This clearly looks like the dealership trying to screw me over but before I go explosive ape shit on them I thought I would check to see if this is normal.

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 Old 07-30-2016, 11:32 AM   #162
 
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Originally Posted by Inzane81 View Post
Hey guys quick question for anyone who has ordered the shims from a dealer; it seems to me that the shims come in a pack of 4,but when I got mine there was only one in the bag, and the bag had a hole in it and was taped shut. This clearly looks like the dealership trying to screw me over but before I go explosive ape shit on them I thought I would check to see if this is normal.

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The bag says qty:1 on it..

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 Old 07-30-2016, 11:34 AM   #163
 
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Originally Posted by ryguy 3 View Post
The bag says qty:1 on it..

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Yes but the ordering form says they come in a 4 pack, and the bag has a hole in it. If there was just one originally, why would there be a hole in the bag?

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 Old 08-06-2016, 12:43 PM   #164
 
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Hi,

Did you ever post that video? I'm wondering if I have the same issue. My A/C compressor stopped working, I hear the noise of metal scraping on metal and sometimes a burnt smell.

I'm wondering whether the bearing is bad or whether it's something else and, god forbid, I have to change the whole compressor.
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 Old 08-06-2016, 07:23 PM   #165
 
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Originally Posted by thrisnospork View Post
Based off of what I've read in this thread you can't tell if the bearing is bad without pulling it out. I would just replace it since you have the pulley out already so you don't have to worry about it later. As far as removing it I think you'll be fine if you carefully pry it out with a flathead.
I tried hitting it from the back with a flat head and hammer, but couldn't get it to come out. Then I tried putting all my weight on it with a crowbar, but it still wouldn't come out. I even got desperate and put it under a jack stand, with the column on the bearing, then lowered my car onto the jack stand and hoped that would make it come out, and it still didn't. Man, those little tabs holding it in are strong!

I don't think trying to pry it out with a screwdriver would actually work. Any other way to get it out without grinding those tabs off, or trying to find a place with a hydraulic press that could press it out for me and put the new one in?

I've attached pics of what it looks like after I had a go at it. If I try to grind the tabs off (not even sure how I'd do that), would the new bearing still stay in the pulley?
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 Old 08-07-2016, 10:34 PM   #166
 
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Originally Posted by Pyronaut View Post
I tried hitting it from the back with a flat head and hammer, but couldn't get it to come out. Then I tried putting all my weight on it with a crowbar, but it still wouldn't come out. I even got desperate and put it under a jack stand, with the column on the bearing, then lowered my car onto the jack stand and hoped that would make it come out, and it still didn't. Man, those little tabs holding it in are strong!

I don't think trying to pry it out with a screwdriver would actually work. Any other way to get it out without grinding those tabs off, or trying to find a place with a hydraulic press that could press it out for me and put the new one in?

I've attached pics of what it looks like after I had a go at it. If I try to grind the tabs off (not even sure how I'd do that), would the new bearing still stay in the pulley?
I've yet to do this myself so I apologize for giving you bad advice lol. It looks like you should be able to stick a socket through the front that's big enough to cover the bearing but small enough to fit through the pulley and hammer it out. Good luck!

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 Old 08-08-2016, 04:53 PM   #167
 
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Originally Posted by thrisnospork View Post
I've yet to do this myself so I apologize for giving you bad advice lol. It looks like you should be able to stick a socket through the front that's big enough to cover the bearing but small enough to fit through the pulley and hammer it out. Good luck!
No problem. I know we're all doing this to try to help others.

As for the socket method you suggested, if half the weight of my car resting on it didn't get it out, I don't think a hammer/socker combo would do it now matter how hard I try to hit it
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 Old 08-08-2016, 05:09 PM   #168
 
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Originally Posted by Pyronaut View Post
No problem. I know we're all doing this to try to help others.

As for the socket method you suggested, if half the weight of my car resting on it didn't get it out, I don't think a hammer/socker combo would do it now matter how hard I try to hit it
Just to clarify, you are trying to push it from the front to get it out the back side of the pulley right? Unfortunately I can't give any advice on how to take it out. I was able to push the inner race of my bearing out with my thumb, and used a dremel to cut through the outer race. I just used a screw driver and a hammer to knock it out after that.

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 Old 08-09-2016, 12:56 AM   #169
 
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Originally Posted by johnnybochamp View Post
Just to clarify, you are trying to push it from the front to get it out the back side of the pulley right? Unfortunately I can't give any advice on how to take it out. I was able to push the inner race of my bearing out with my thumb, and used a dremel to cut through the outer race. I just used a screw driver and a hammer to knock it out after that.
Yeah I would hope so, haha. I'm pushing it out towards the side with the little tabs that stick out over the bearing. Basically from the closed side of the pulley towards the open side.

In rpaniagua's photos it looks like he might have cut or ground them off, but I'm not sure. So you managed to get it out piece by piece then? I wonder if I can get the inner ring out first, perhaps I could bend the outer part to be able to remove it, and then maybe hack away at the tabs until they're all gone so I get can the new pulley back in.
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 Old 08-09-2016, 01:09 AM   #170
 
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I kissed the tabs with the dremel as well. Good luck trying to get it out. The new bearing went in nice with a couple taps around it with a hammer, and slid right onto my compressor like a glove

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 Old 08-11-2016, 03:31 PM   #171
 
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I would like to say a huge thanks to Trebor379 for starting this thread. I did my daughters AC clutch motor a few weeks ago and its so cold it makes me turn it down and we live in the Memphis area. NO FEAR of doing anything after studying and doing this myself. Shop quoted me $750.00 for the compressor I told him its not bad. I posted a few pictures along the way hope they help someone else out that might have any question. Thanks again Trebor379 for the start thread.
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 Old 08-16-2016, 02:03 AM   #172
 
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Originally Posted by Pyronaut View Post
Yeah I would hope so, haha. I'm pushing it out towards the side with the little tabs that stick out over the bearing. Basically from the closed side of the pulley towards the open side.

In rpaniagua's photos it looks like he might have cut or ground them off, but I'm not sure. So you managed to get it out piece by piece then? I wonder if I can get the inner ring out first, perhaps I could bend the outer part to be able to remove it, and then maybe hack away at the tabs until they're all gone so I get can the new pulley back in.
Check out this video from about the 6 min mark. It shows how to remove the bearing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7yflp1WFrU
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 Old 08-26-2016, 07:47 PM   #173
 
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I know this thread is old, but I'm doing the bearing replacement today. I've got an '07 MS3. I cannot, for the life of me, get this pulley off by hand. I saw that the OP used a gear puller, but I can't imagine it would be easy to fit one in there. Has anyone else successfully used a gear or pulley puller without removing the entire compressor?...and can you share a model number with me.

Originally Posted by Trebor379 View Post
Step 4, Now you will be able to remove the C-clip holding the pulley on, and pull the pulley off. I had to use a gear puller to pull mine off due to the fact that the bearing in the clutch pulley was so warped i couldn't pull it out by hand.
Also, just to clarify, the c-clip is the only thing holding on the pulley....right? There's plenty of play now that the c-clip is off, but it just feels like something else is blocking the removal. Maybe that's just my defunct bearing in there. Not really sure.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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 Old 08-26-2016, 09:47 PM   #174
 
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I used a puller from Oriely autoparts free rental with a deposit

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 Old 09-03-2016, 04:17 AM   #175
 
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Thanks for the thread on this, mine went from silent to screws in a can in two days. However when I opened up my hood I found this ground wire not connected at all,

Could this ground wire not being connected cause damage to the compressor or the clutch?
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 Old 10-02-2016, 06:22 PM   #176
 
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Hoping some had the same issue as I am. When I removed the clutch, there was one shim. After replacing the bearing and putting it back together, the clutch doesnt spin freely by hand. Did anyone else have this issue? Are more shims needed? Thanks!
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 Old 10-06-2016, 07:00 AM   #177
 
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Originally Posted by acurateintegra View Post
Hoping some had the same issue as I am. When I removed the clutch, there was one shim. After replacing the bearing and putting it back together, the clutch doesnt spin freely by hand. Did anyone else have this issue? Are more shims needed? Thanks!
Read back through this thread. I believe there are multiple shims needed and their spacing is crucial from what I remember.

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 Old 10-07-2016, 08:41 AM   #178
 
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Found the source of the funny in and out noise yesterday, sadly, it was not the 10mm bolt working loose.

happily, using the catman's search widget, quickly found the apprpriate post, and have a AC pulley bearing ordered up from Azone.

at least I proly caught this one in time to repair, without cracking the system open.

time to search for my snap ring pliers
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 Old 10-07-2016, 11:05 AM   #179
 
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Oh, Great,

Just read Gro Getr's How To

apparently, on the 6, Mazda put a full roll cage around the compressor......
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 Old 03-08-2017, 07:31 AM   #180
 
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So I'm now facing this problem. For a few days, the car would make this noise, like a grinding noise but really low. My daughter described it as an "airplane noise". The smell of burnt plastic was very strong as well. Anyway I took it to the shop and the guy said it was the ac compressor clutch.

I found the assembly on Amazon for $80. Unfortunately I won't be here for a few days. My question is can I still drive with the clutch being in the state that it's in? I could turn off the ac and leave the windows down, but I just want to make sure I don't do any extra damage to where I would have to replace the whole compressor.
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 Old 03-09-2017, 10:18 AM   #181
 
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the longer you drive it the bigger pita it will be to get the bearing off. Freewheeling it(a/c off including no defrost) will have the best odds, but once you start getting a consistent noise you are playing with fate. Based on the noise, which is definitely a bearings are gone noise. The two things you risk are

1. welding the bearing to the shaft, which makes it infinitely more difficult to get off on a 3, and borderline impossible on the 6 without removing the whole thing from the car(which then adds $ having to have it vaced and recharged)

2. the bearing seizes/lets go and you throw the belt doing who knows what damage.
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 Old 05-03-2017, 06:39 PM   #182
 
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Hey Trebor, i don't know if you still get in these forums seeing that this was posted in 2013, but did this fix you did also fix the coldness of the a/c? Because that's my problem my a/c blows fine and everything, I've tried recharging it, nothing happened. So this is my last resort.


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 Old 05-04-2017, 07:26 AM   #183
 
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nax are you saying the air blows warm? First step is verifying the compressor is engaging. easiest way to do this is to stand near the compressor and have someone in the car turn the a/c on to full. You should hear the compressor click on/activate.

If NO:
then next step is to verify you have enough pressure to activate the pressure switch. You can do this with a cheap recharge kit from the parts store, the included gauge will tell you if you have the correct pressure. If its low then as you add 134 it will eventually click on when the min pressure is obtained in the system(filled).

If Yes:
Look at the outside 3 circle plate and see if it is spinning. It should be spinning at the same speed as the pulley. If it is going slowly, not moving at all, or randomly stops and starts spinning again(glitch) then the clutch isn't fully engaging and needs to be replaced.

The coldness of the air is really a set degree value influenced by the outside air it is cooling down. The hotter it is outside the harder it is to cool the air down. The really isn't a way to make the system blow colder if it is already working properly. If you stick a thermometer in the center vents it should show around 60 degree F.
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 Old 06-13-2017, 03:09 PM   #184
 
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I put some 134 in it and it started spinning the same speed but after a while it started to glitch so I guess new compressor


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 Old 06-14-2017, 11:05 AM   #185
 
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did you not even bother to read the title of this thread?
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 Old 06-14-2017, 03:52 PM   #186
 
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I did and I tried the cheap way and it didn't work?


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 Old 06-15-2017, 06:33 AM   #187
 
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so you replaced the clutch? in your first post it make it sound like you were debating doing it and then instead just added 134. If you replaced the clutch hopefully you paid attention to the notes about incorrect shims in the aftermarket kits. Start a new thread and people will chime in, lets not clog up the clutch specific thread with diagnosing an a/c concern. they are fairly simply systems so depending on your symptoms there are usually only a few things to check/replace.
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 Old 06-17-2017, 05:26 PM   #188
 
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Default Mazda AC clutch repair

Hello everyone - I ended up purchasing the same shims from Mazda (B25F-61-L1Y) came with 4 shims of varying thickness. When I install one of the shims with the one previously installed, the ac clutch spins, stutters, spins, etc. With only one shim the clutch is always spinning whether or not the AC is on or off (which isn't good). Combination of other shims results in similar results (AC clutch not spinning completely. Curious if anyone can offer some knowledge. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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 Old 07-03-2017, 08:12 AM   #189
 
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Originally Posted by acurateintegra View Post
Hello everyone - I ended up purchasing the same shims from Mazda (B25F-61-L1Y) came with 4 shims of varying thickness. When I install one of the shims with the one previously installed, the ac clutch spins, stutters, spins, etc. With only one shim the clutch is always spinning whether or not the AC is on or off (which isn't good). Combination of other shims results in similar results (AC clutch not spinning completely. Curious if anyone can offer some knowledge. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Curious if you figured this out yet? I replaced the bearing using the procedure in the op when my bearing went bad, and that worked well. But when I recharged the system (due to me pulling the wrong snap-ring out during disassembly and losing all the charge in my system...oops) my clutch was not engaging. Pulled everything back off and I had a similar looking magnet coil to some shown in the previous pictures. So I ordered this from ebay:

NEW 2007 08 Mazdaspeed 3 & 6 TURBO ONLY AC Compressor CLUTCH KIT 124MM 6 Groove | eBay

This came with everything I needed, clutch, pulley, coil, and even hardware including shims for $40.

Everything went on and fit well, but when I started the car the clutch was spinning all the time. I then loosened the retaining bolt, and I could get it to not spin if I loosened it to a point, but I'm concerned that it's too loose and will fall off. So I'm assuming my spacing with the shims is not correct.

That being said, this kit for $40 is a really good deal for anyone needing replacements.
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 Old 07-03-2017, 08:42 AM   #190
 
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it ends up being trial and error on the shim spacing. You want it to just spin freely by hand. Some people are able to just reuse their originals, some have to go a tad thicker on the spacing. Each mfg will have a slight variance in their clutch friction surface material, but aftermarket will generally be the same or slightly thicker friction surface than oem. I ended up using the factory originals plus the thinnest one that came in my kit after just the originals caused constant engagement.
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 Old 07-03-2017, 08:44 AM   #191
 
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
it ends up being trial and error on the shim spacing. You want it to just spin freely by hand. Some people are able to just reuse their originals, some have to go a tad thicker on the spacing. Each mfg will have a slight variance in their clutch friction surface material, but aftermarket will generally be the same or slightly thicker friction surface than oem. I ended up using the factory originals plus the thinnest one that came in my kit after just the originals caused constant engagement.
Cool thanks. I'll buy the shim kit from the dealer and see what works.
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 Old 11-14-2017, 10:49 PM   #192
 
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Originally Posted by ericrlove88 View Post
Cool thanks. I'll buy the shim kit from the dealer and see what works.
@ericrlove88

did this fix your issue? i get rattling every now and then and am looking into buying the same kit you did. with shims from the dealer.
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 Old 11-15-2017, 07:05 AM   #193
 
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rattling when the comp engages is a sign they bearing/clutch is on its last leg.
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 Old 11-18-2017, 05:22 AM   #194
 
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Originally Posted by riflex View Post
@ericrlove88

did this fix your issue? i get rattling every now and then and am looking into buying the same kit you did. with shims from the dealer.
Yup. Worked great and was the cheapest kit I could find. I bought the shins separately and did have to use some trial and error to get it right. But now it works great. Mine started as an occasional rattle but quickly grew to something that needed fixed immediately, so jump on it quick before you can’t drive it anymore.
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 Old 11-18-2017, 05:27 AM   #195
 
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Originally Posted by riflex View Post
@ericrlove88

did this fix your issue? i get rattling every now and then and am looking into buying the same kit you did. with shims from the dealer.
O, and I bought this shim kit from autozone rather than the dealer. $2 vs. $20, and it worked perfect. MT0986 “ Santech A/C Comp Clutch Installation Kit“ in case the link doesn’t work.

https://m.autozone.com/cooling-heati...kit/946226_0_0
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