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 Old 07-12-2012, 05:40 PM   #1
 
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Default Driver side power window wont work

Before you start flaming, saying hold it up til it clicks, read my issue, its not it.

This morning on my way to work I had the windows down. When I got to work I put them all the way up. After work, I go to leave and roll down the windows and all go but the drivers side window. Initial thought was hold the window button til it resets. That didn't work. I tried pushing down on the window as I operated the switch but no luck. Checked the three fuses under the glove box related to the power windows, again, no luck. When I hit the switch the gauge lights dim so I believe that means powers going to it which means the motor may be fried.

Also worth mentioning:
1. I have never in the year and a half I've owned the car, had problems with any window and this morning the window did not do anything out of the ordinary.
2. When I hit the drivers side switch I can hear a small clunk. Not like a somethings hitting something clunk but like an electrical switch clunk. It's louder than the switch clicking though. Hopefully you follow that...
3. Battery has not been disconnected in about 3 months.

So, anybody have any ideas? Does it sound like a window motor problem. I'm hoping I don't have to rip apart the door so I'm coming to you guys first.

Thanks.
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 Old 07-12-2012, 05:45 PM   #2
 
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We have 3's off our lot come in alll the time for the front windows getting stuck.

9 times out of 10, the glass is literally just stuck in place.

Sometimes you can slam the door while holding the switch down and the window will get free. Yea, I know it sounds rough but just a nice solid jarring is what it usually takes.
Once the glass is down you clean the inside of the run channels with soapy water and lube them afterwards with silicone spray.
If they are really stuck, we remove the door panel and the window motor and manually turn the mechanism.

Hope this helps.
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 Old 07-12-2012, 06:07 PM   #3
 
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I'll give that a try.

I also tried the credit card in between the seal and glass trick in case it was stuck there.
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 Old 07-12-2012, 06:30 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by timjs View Post
We have 3's off our lot come in alll the time for the front windows getting stuck.

9 times out of 10, the glass is literally just stuck in place.

Sometimes you can slam the door while holding the switch down and the window will get free. Yea, I know it sounds rough but just a nice solid jarring is what it usually takes.
Once the glass is down you clean the inside of the run channels with soapy water and lube them afterwards with silicone spray.
If they are really stuck, we remove the door panel and the window motor and manually turn the mechanism.

Hope this helps.

Wow. Second slam was solid. And guess what it worked. Did not think that was gonna work at all. Thanks.
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 Old 07-13-2012, 04:18 AM   #5
 
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Glad you got it sorted! Now make sure you clean that glass channel!! If you have silicone spray handy I recommend lubing them afterwards as well. Good luck dude.
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 Old 11-21-2012, 01:56 PM   #6
 
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Hello, new to the forum.. specifically for this reason.. BUT Also extremely new to mazda's...

Any way.. I have the EXACT same issue listed above with the EXACT same details...

This morning, it worked fine and normal.. This afternoon I jump in and only the front drivers side will not roll down.. I also, checked fuses.. and I'm also hearing the same "click" the OP heard..

Me being me, once I knew it wasn't the fuses I started taking my door panel off to check wires/buttons.. And in that process found this site.. SO, I put everything back together and tried the above mentioned method of slamming the door while holding the button down.. ..

Obviously that's didn't work or I wouldn't be posting this now. (I tried it numerous times now)

Any other suggestions would be great!! and I look forward to using this site more in the future!!!
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 Old 11-21-2012, 02:13 PM   #7
 
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depending on the condition o the car the armeture in the window motor can get builup on its internals causing a poor connection. sometimes you can just smack the door panel in the area of the motor while operating and it will free the motor. lmk if that works for you
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 Old 11-21-2012, 02:18 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by jmichzx6r View Post
depending on the condition o the car the armeture in the window motor can get builup on its internals causing a poor connection. sometimes you can just smack the door panel in the area of the motor while operating and it will free the motor. lmk if that works for you
I will try that, thanks!

(from the interior or exterior?..)


Also, should I hear the motor?? Cause I don't think I hear anything but the click the switch makes.
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 Old 11-21-2012, 02:21 PM   #9
 
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usually you wont hear anything. usually easier to hit the inside while operating the, also because the regulator/motor assembly bolts to the inner door frame not the outer skin
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 Old 11-21-2012, 02:26 PM   #10
 
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Great, thanks! I will try that out!
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 Old 11-21-2012, 02:57 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by jmichzx6r View Post
usually you wont hear anything. usually easier to hit the inside while operating the, also because the regulator/motor assembly bolts to the inner door frame not the outer skin
Worked like a dream!!!!! Beat her like she owed me money, and about the 3rd hit in... rolled down flawlessly!!!

Guess I need to get in there and clean that out some!!!


Thanks again!
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 Old 11-21-2012, 03:03 PM   #12
 
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I have this problem often. No amount of beating works either, sometimes it works again after a day or two without me doing anything to it lol.

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 Old 11-21-2012, 03:27 PM   #13
 
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usually you can get buy for a while as it is usually only one or two spots of buildup. my rule of thumb on cars that i work on for riends is that if i have to do it 3 times or more in a year, replace the motor or motor/regulator, depending if you can pruchase seperatly. on customer vehicle i usually just advise they replace. sometimes it will for a few months or years, other times it will do it agin a week later. just a headsup
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 Old 11-21-2012, 06:30 PM   #14
 
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I had this same issue, but it was only earlier this year when it was hot and sunny and the inside of my car got pretty hot. After I had the windows down and it seemed to cool down it would work perfectly. I hear the same click and even recorded the sound. Took it to the dealership(have extended warranty) but didn't want to pay $50 for diagnostics so I said screw it, when it went out I'd just replace it.

Next time it happens I'm going to try this. I'll let you know what I find out.
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 Old 01-03-2014, 08:44 AM   #15
 
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Long time reader but first time poster. I figured I would share my story with the wife's Speed3 with the same problem and bring an old thread back from the dead. She was slamming the door once in a while but it finally stopped working.

The easiest fix is to just replace the window switch but I did not want to wait for a switch to ship and be stuck with a car with the window down. I first noted that the lights would dim on the car when I would press the switch to roll the window down, but no change when rolling up. So either the motor had a dead spot when lifting or the switch was busted. First thing I did was removed the switch from the back side of the door panel but left the harness hooked up. With the switch removed from the door panel I could apply a side load to the button and the window would go up sometimes. Hence I started to disassemble the switch to see what was up.

I removed the tiny screws on the back of the switch. These are so small that I could not tell if they were Torx or Allen head. I was able to use a small metric allen wrench - 2.5mm I think. These buggers are in there TIGHT, hence push down hard while turning to prevent head strip out. You can now remove the back. Next pullout the circuit board. Be careful as there are some plungers that link the drivers up/down switch and to the circuit board and will fall out. After the board is out you will see a white assembly that lies under the driver switch.


Pull off the white rectangular frame in order to expose the silicone pad underneath. There are 3 contacts under the silicone pad and the pad has copper discs bonded under the silicone. When you push or pull on the switch the 2X loose plungers and switch pushes down on the silicone pad in the appropriate location. The copper disc on the back of the silicone pad then bridges the gap on the circuit board trace.


So you can see that I had burn spots on the copper discs on the silicone pad and the circuit board (black dots on the left).


I then used some contact cleaner and a razor blade to remove the burn spots. I wouldn’t go too nuts and gouge the copper deeply – just hit it lightly (A Scotchbrite pad may work as well) There are 2X discs that are not used on the silicone and I was thinking about using them to replace the ones I cleaned but figured it was too much of a pain – maybe next time.

Reassemble in reverse. Make sure to get the plastic plungers in the back of the switch buttons. These mate up with the cups in the silicone and push on the copper discs. Install the plungers in the receptacles towards the center of the switch – the outers are not used (the plungers are the small white squares on the top right on the pic).


So far the switch has worked for the past 3 weeks – no more door slamming and the driver window operates without issue. The only thing I could foresee happening is the copper with start oxidizing or burn again and will have to clean it again.
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 Old 04-04-2014, 10:12 AM   #16
 
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I found myself with this same problem, but none of the solutions mentioned have worked. I have taken some extensive troubleshooting and I'm still stuck.I checked the voltage and amperage on the wires connecting at the motor and found an almost perfect 12 volts / 5 amps going to the motor leads when operating the switch in both (-12v/-5a in opposite direction). Naturally, I assumed that the motor was just bad and needed to be replaced. Well, I go the new motor in yesterday and it's doing the same exact thing as the old one. it turns downward with smooth torque, but in the opposite direction, it either does nothing or turns at a very slow speed like its struggling. Any thoughts from you guys? I'll put a video up in a few minutes.

Edit: Here's the video


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 Old 04-04-2014, 05:35 PM   #17
 
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I would be curious what your voltage is under load. Did you back probe the connector with your meter when the motor was connected? My wife's acted just the same except it wouldn't creep the other way then die - it was just dead going up. I wonder if your switch is breaking down under load.
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 Old 04-04-2014, 05:54 PM   #18
 
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I wasn't able to put the volt meter probes in while the motor was connected due to the connector being a tight fit on the back side. At this point, I might try to splice into the wire to check it, or pull the back right power window motor out to see if it will work. I guess it's possible (although far fetched) that the motor I bought on ebay is bad too. I'll keep trying and update here with what I find.
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 Old 04-06-2014, 06:33 AM   #19
 
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Remove the motor and try to actuate the regulator by hand with a pair of pliers. If it won't move, the issue is with a stuck regulator or glass.

Taking the regulator out isn't hard. That huge inner panel is simple to remove.

If you already tried this, I must have overlooked it.
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 Old 04-06-2014, 07:08 AM   #20
 
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Have you tried an resistance test?
My next guess would be to check the regulator.
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 Old 04-27-2014, 12:46 PM   #21
 
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Not sure about the regulator, but I did take the motor out of the driver door and tried it in the rear passenger door. It works fine back there so I know it's not the motor itself. The mechanism in the door is fine too because I can move it by hand ok (with pliers inside of the teeth) and the motor struggles even when not installed in the assembly. How would I do a resistance test or check the regulator?
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 Old 05-01-2014, 06:29 PM   #22
 
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Hey guys, sorry to crash this MS6 party, just a lonely tricked out 06 Wagon with the exact same problem which was listed here. Drivers window was giving me issues. down is dandy, up is a problem. Well I went to go move the car tonight and pull my wifes car in, and the smell was hideous inside. Turns our the controller board in the window switch panel caught fire!!! Worse yet, it happened while I was not in the car....so glad I caught it, love my baby. Anyways, Im off to Mazda in the morning, the burn was so hot, it burned through about 3 layers of plastic, and started melting the door panel. Where is the fuse for this panel???? It is not doing its job here at all! Just a thought, have a look at the actual window control panel B-Dirty, I think your problem is in there. If the windows get dirty and the window jams thats one thing...but a motor should draw enough amps to kick out the fuse if its having that much of a hard time. I believe the source is the switch assembly in the door. Good luck.
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 Old 05-01-2014, 09:31 PM   #23
 
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First post? Really?
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 Old 05-02-2014, 03:01 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by BPASPEED View Post
First post? Really?
Um, Ya. Hi. I was part of the Mazda 6 Club for about 5 years Prior. I owned an 07 Speed 6 up until 12', got rear ended and bought the 6 wagon when we had our baby girl...Still the same love though.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 05:05 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by SickM6Wagon View Post
Hey guys, sorry to crash this MS6 party, just a lonely tricked out 06 Wagon with the exact same problem which was listed here. Drivers window was giving me issues. down is dandy, up is a problem. Well I went to go move the car tonight and pull my wifes car in, and the smell was hideous inside. Turns our the controller board in the window switch panel caught fire!!! Worse yet, it happened while I was not in the car....so glad I caught it, love my baby. Anyways, Im off to Mazda in the morning, the burn was so hot, it burned through about 3 layers of plastic, and started melting the door panel. Where is the fuse for this panel???? It is not doing its job here at all! Just a thought, have a look at the actual window control panel B-Dirty, I think your problem is in there. If the windows get dirty and the window jams thats one thing...but a motor should draw enough amps to kick out the fuse if its having that much of a hard time. I believe the source is the switch assembly in the door. Good luck.
You would think a fuse would prevent that kind of meltdown. Unfortunately there are circumstances where things can get really hot and not draw that much current at the same time. For instance, a light bulb. Somewhere in your switch you must have had some weak connection that got hot when trying to carry the normal loads, rather than a short.
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 Old 05-03-2014, 01:47 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by timjs View Post
You would think a fuse would prevent that kind of meltdown. Unfortunately there are circumstances where things can get really hot and not draw that much current at the same time. For instance, a light bulb. Somewhere in your switch you must have had some weak connection that got hot when trying to carry the normal loads, rather than a short.
well, this was like a flash fire when it happened. I will share some pics shortly.
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 Old 05-08-2014, 07:39 PM   #27
 
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Well here's my problem with my window....
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 Old 05-09-2014, 02:06 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by Hurley 360 View Post
Well here's my problem with my window....
Mazdaspeed 3 master window switch problem. - YouTube
God to Ebay, type in "141270775794" in the search bar. Bluemoon050 has one for sale still, which is where I just bought mine from.

$73 US delivered to my mailbox within 2 days.

Works like a charm.

Now mine started on fire, but mine went from working to not just in a heartbeat...so it is possible I feel. I never did anything special to mine at all.

If they cross the wires and the window moved, then I say its the switch, because its the same fuse for all the windows, so that only really leaves the switch.

On a side note, you can phone mazda canada and complain. If it goes into the dealership working and comes out not....then they are a bunch of cooocks. What is the dealership if you do not mind me asking?
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 Old 05-09-2014, 11:18 AM   #29
 
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Like I said I'm trying to stay away from spending money if I don't have to. I didn't get the work done at the mazda dealership (unfortunately) but was done at the Chevy dealership, just because that's who my insurance goes through and it was supposed to speed up the process( but that's a different story). And like the video said, I used my buddy's switch and it worked fine
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 Old 05-28-2014, 05:00 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Hurley 360 View Post
Like I said I'm trying to stay away from spending money if I don't have to. I didn't get the work done at the mazda dealership (unfortunately) but was done at the Chevy dealership, just because that's who my insurance goes through and it was supposed to speed up the process( but that's a different story). And like the video said, I used my buddy's switch and it worked fine
Well, I would ask your buddy how much he wants for his switch...jk
I purchased my new switch from ebay, works great, only problem is I just sold the car...no more 2006 M6S wagon for me.
Bought a 2011 M6S GT, so now the new problems will start

Funny enough, after I fixed / replaced the door switch, I found an online service manual for the car, only $12.99
https://mymanualdownload.com/product-category/mazda/

not sure if this would help anyone, but I purchased mine and fixed a knock sensor as a result...who knew?

Engine code said oxygen sensor, but wiring diagram pointed me differently, took a bit to figure out, but life is good now.

Good luck.
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 Old 02-11-2015, 11:52 AM   #31
 
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I just bought a used 2010 Mazda 3. The drivers side window has the above mentioned issue, but today I started having problems with the rear window. It will go down but not up, and now it is stuck down and I can't get it back up. I have tried it from the driver's switch and the switch on the rear door. Any thoughts?
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 Old 02-11-2015, 01:26 PM   #32
 
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Well, all of the controls originate from the drivers side console....so revert back to the drivers side console switch again.

whatever stops at the drivers side console, also stops everywhere else.
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 Old 02-13-2016, 05:58 PM   #33
 
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Found this site because of the drivers side window would not lower trick. I first tried the belt the inner door panel while holding down the switch. Bummer no go. Next saw the belt the motor trick. WORKED A TREAT!!. Thanks to the originator of that tip it just saved me a trip to the auto electrician.
Ray
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 Old 02-14-2016, 03:30 AM   #34
 
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Only thing I would suggest is looking at your switch just in case.....the burnt switch smell stayed in my car well over a few months...not pretty.
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 Old 01-29-2017, 10:31 AM   #35
 
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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but kidrabbit's fix totally worked for me (2007 Mazda3s). Thank you! For the benefit of anybody else who finds this thread like I did, I have a few suggestions:

- Those tiny screws inside are T6 torx, not hex. 1.5mm hex might fit, but I'd be very afraid of stripping the caps of the screws.

- Be careful pulling the trim piece out of the door. There are three tabs on the inner (towards the seat) edge, two tabs on the outer (towards the door) edge, and one tab on the back edge. I wasn't aware of the back edge tab, and snapped it off. Once those five tabs are released, slide the entire trim piece back to release the front edge. The final "tab" slides out, just like on that piece of trim above the glove box.

- At first glance, I thought the "burn spots" on the copper discs were way too small to actually have any effect. I looked at kidrabbit's excellent photos again and saw that mine actually looked just like his. Sure enough, after two minutes with a scotchbrite pad, they and the whole switch were good as new.

Thanks again to kidrabbit and best of luck to whoever tries this next!
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 Old 05-11-2019, 01:41 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by timjs View Post
We have 3's off our lot come in alll the time for the front windows getting stuck.

9 times out of 10, the glass is literally just stuck in place.

Sometimes you can slam the door while holding the switch down and the window will get free. Yea, I know it sounds rough but just a nice solid jarring is what it usually takes.
Once the glass is down you clean the inside of the run channels with soapy water and lube them afterwards with silicone spray.
If they are really stuck, we remove the door panel and the window motor and manually turn the mechanism.

Hope this helps.
How do you manually roll it down because I just took my 07 ms3 to a shop and they charged me 450 for a new master control and it got stuck the very next day. It has now been stuck for like a week and I refuse to take it back in there and can't figure out how to get it back down. Credit card trick isn't working, slamming on the door, beating on it. Took it apart and all the connections looked good. When I hold up I can hear the pop . Usually if I do it really early in the morning it will roll down because it's cooler but it hasn't for a week now and idk what to do.
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 Old 05-14-2019, 03:48 AM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by Devinmonroe View Post
How do you manually roll it down because I just took my 07 ms3 to a shop and they charged me 450 for a new master control and it got stuck the very next day. It has now been stuck for like a week and I refuse to take it back in there and can't figure out how to get it back down. Credit card trick isn't working, slamming on the door, beating on it. Took it apart and all the connections looked good. When I hold up I can hear the pop . Usually if I do it really early in the morning it will roll down because it's cooler but it hasn't for a week now and idk what to do.
Remove the motor and turn the spool manually. Next time your window goes down, clean and lubricate the run channels and you won't have any more problems.
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 Old 05-14-2019, 04:47 PM   #38
 
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For anyone returning to the forum for additional window switch issues


I just bought a 2008 MS3 super clean 124k miles.

During the test drive I smacked the window switch down cause it was hotter than Satans ballsack in the car. And the switch broke. On the test drive! The salesman obviously immediately said wth we’ll fix that it’s on us.( super cool of him we both new what happened). But It thought me sometimes the plastic doesn’t last forever and my get brittle. So fun fact if none of these previous solutions help check if you switch is broken.


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