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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in!


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 Old 07-17-2019, 01:33 PM   #1
 
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Default Extremely confusing issues need help from pros

I am in need of some major help.


I am having 2 major issues I canít figure out.

The first issue is regarding my fuel economy.

I had my intercooler and radiator support replaced recently and ever since my mpgs have been pathetic. I have been getting between 12-14 mph city and 18 highway when I used to get 30-32 mph highway and 22-24 city. The weird thing is my fuel trims and afrs are still perfect. Which is the part thatís confusing me the most. I have tried all the basics including cleaning the maf, fuel system cleaner and reloading my tune. The only thing i havenít done yet is replaced my spark plugs. They are a little old at this point but I havenít had any breaking up or driveability problems and I donít think old spark plugs would bring my mpgs from 32-34 down to 18. Thatís almost cut in half.

My mods Are

Intake and tip

Rear motor mount

Cobb front mount

E30 tune from purple drank.

Recirc valve

Downpipe and full exhaust

Hpfp internals


I am working on getting some logs to post up here as I know that problems are much easier diagnoses with logs but Iím hoping someone can at least start to point me in the right direction.


The next problem involves my a/c.

The a/c will work fine and blow cold sometimes but then randomly stop working for a half hour or so and then start working again.

When the a/c is working the compressor clutch will spin fine and then stop for 5-10 second and then start spinning again. When itís not working the compressor wonít kick on at all.

The cooling fan is working fine as well.

I had the Freon professionally drained and refilled to the correct amount and checked for leaks and they didnít find any leaks.

The local mechanics are stumped and basically told me to start replacing everything until something works which is extremely costly and ridiculous advice.

I know a lot of you will say bring it to the dealer and have them hook up their scan tools but My local dealer wonít hook my car up to their high tech computers because they say they donít work on modified cars. So thatís not an option.

I am stumped on both issues and neither seems to make any sense to me.
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 Old 07-17-2019, 02:06 PM   #2
 
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for the ac, you may check when it quit working if the 12v is at the clutch but it isn't turning...there is common problem of worn bearing/clutch.

for your mpg, i would start with a boost leak under real pressure. if there is air leak that is read by the maf, it will send fuel for it but won,t be used.
You may also check for anythng wrong with wheel/tires/ stuck brakes
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 07-17-2019, 03:08 PM   #3
 
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Being that you just had an intercooler and radiator support replaced I would do a once over on the clamps and couplers to make sure everything got hooked up properly

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 Old 07-17-2019, 03:43 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
for the ac, you may check when it quit working if the 12v is at the clutch but it isn't turning...there is common problem of worn bearing/clutch.

for your mpg, i would start with a boost leak under real pressure. if there is air leak that is read by the maf, it will send fuel for it but won,t be used.
You may also check for anythng wrong with wheel/tires/ stuck brakes
AC issue: Sounds like the solenoid operated ac clutch is probably going out. This tends to show up first as working when the engine is cold and then stopping when it is warmed up. There is an air gap that is needed for the clutch to move when it gets the signal from the solenoid. Over time, that gap gets out of spec.

The solution is to install a new solenoid/clutch unit on the front of the ac compressor. You do not need to replace the entire compressor and deal with evacuating and refilling the compressor. Replacement solenoid/clutch unit is available. I did this several years ago. It was not difficult. If I recall, it just bolts on. I don't think I needed to use a gear puller. There may even be threads here on this. I've not looked.

First, make sure that you are getting 12 volts when the AC is turned on. Even if it's not turning, if the AC is on, you must be getting 12v to the solenoid, or it is some other problem.

Low fuel mileage: As to the low mileage issue, we really would benefit from some logs. Have you excluded bad gas? Perhaps change sources and make sure you are running 93 octane if available. Maybe your ethanol mix is off? I know little about it, but I know that ethanol mileage is lower than 93, and if you are running too much ethanol, or water contamination, that could possibly be a part of the problem.
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BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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 Old 07-17-2019, 09:29 PM   #5
 
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The a/c compressor clutch going out makes perfect sense

However with the mpgs every time I have had a loose coupler the fuel trims were way off and the car ran like shit.

My fuel trims are perfect and the car runs good.

The bad gas and too much E85 are rules out and actually o have less E85 than normal so I should be getting better mpgs
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 Old 07-18-2019, 08:36 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Speed3kid93 View Post
The a/c compressor clutch going out makes perfect sense

However with the mpgs every time I have had a loose coupler the fuel trims were way off and the car ran like shit.

My fuel trims are perfect and the car runs good.

The bad gas and too much E85 are rules out and actually o have less E85 than normal so I should be getting better mpgs
Well, there! You donít have a problem the, right? How did you rule out bad fuel or water contamination?
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BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms.
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 Old 07-21-2019, 10:36 PM   #7
 
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Well the problem has been happening over multiple tanks of gas all from different stations.

Water contamination is definitely possible because I buy e85 in bulk and store it in gas containers and lately the seals on the containers have been breaking apart and I think its letting some water and moisture in.

I put some fuel conditioner that helps with water in fuel and also put some fresh e85 in and Im hoping this will help.

Another thing my fiance noticed today was when stepping on the gas a decent amount she said there was a burnt chemical smell coming into the car.

I don't have a great sense of smell and never noticed but she said it was noticeable.

I checked over the engine bay and noticed that the previous owner used some aluminum foil near the turbo as some sort of heat shield and a large portion was burned off.

So i just took the whole thing off and I'm hoping this gets rid of the burnt smell.
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 Old 07-22-2019, 09:11 AM   #8
 
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the heat shield you describe is looking like the factory one attached to the car body that felt off...
ask her if the rpm and speedo was still following each other to make sure it wasn't a clutch smell.

Btw fuel conditionners to get rid of water are usually Methanol very similar to ethanol of the e85....there isn't much you can do to save your stored e85 from water content....But W/M is exactly that but from a separated ''not calculated'' injector
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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