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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in!


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 Old 03-08-2018, 10:39 AM   #1
 
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Default Have boost but no power

So i have a odd problem that no one seems to know whats going on. I have a 09 speed3 and i recently had a new/used engine installed due to my old one throwing a rod thru the block. Since the install the car wont accelerate right. I build boost and i hear the turbo going but the car moves like it doesnt have a turbo. Only mods i have a corksport tmic, cobb bpv, cobb intake and inlet pipe and cobb EBCS. Attach are 3 data logs. If i do a WOT car doesnt wanna go over 4k. Only CEL i have is lean at idle. Spark plugs are gapped to .028. The engine i put in the car is from a gen 2. A 2010 engine. Any ideas will be a help
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 Old 03-08-2018, 12:11 PM   #2
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your knock retard is really out of control, might want to look into that
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 Old 03-08-2018, 02:16 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by Pu Manchu View Post
your knock retard is really out of control, might want to look into that
x2

Your spark advance should be holding around 10 degrees at WOT. You're knocking so bad the ECU is pulling you down into the negatives.
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 Old 03-08-2018, 02:22 PM   #4
 
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If i had knocking that bad woudlnt i hear it? Took car to dealership had them look at everything make sure everything was hooked up and they told me everything looked good. Every test they did to it checked out good too.
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 Old 03-08-2018, 02:33 PM   #5
 
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Sometimes you can hear bad enough knock retard, but it isn't actually a knocking sound, its really a change in the engine tone, and sometimes a bit of a stutter or loss of power...

Your dealer is not going to give two shits about knock retard;

What tune are you running

If you are pro tuned you need to get a hold of them and get it sorted.
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 Old 03-08-2018, 02:35 PM   #6
 
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It's also possible there a loose bracket that's making enough noise that your knock sensor is picking it up.

Or the knock sensor is bad...

Bottom line, your ECU is seeing so much knock, it's making you run on your knock ignition tables in the tune.
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 Old 03-08-2018, 02:41 PM   #7
 
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I do have it pro tuned but i have changed maps from stock to my pro tune and same problems. I thought about unplugging the knock sensor and see what happens but worried i could damage the engine if it was right about the knock.
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 Old 03-08-2018, 02:49 PM   #8
 
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did you heard the engine running before pulling it out ? Have you done anything to it internally or to the timing ? Maybe you got a bad engine at first place....

Or like others said, something is loose and hammer so hard that it pickup noise into the knock sensor....look at intake, engine mounts, injectors seals (Btw have you replaced the seal or did anything to the injectors? )

Make sure the knock harness isn't damaged...maybe compare resistance from the ECU and from the sensor alone...and compare it to your old engine...
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 Old 03-08-2018, 03:03 PM   #9
 
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Its a ebay engine and as far as they say it was a great engine. the mechanic who i had install the engine replace the injector seals but didnt mess with the timing. If injector was installed wrong would that show up on a compression test? I ran a test today and got 175 160 179 180. On that 160 cyl i put oil in it to see if it would go up any and it didnt.
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 Old 03-08-2018, 07:25 PM   #10
 
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Do a leakdown.
Check for bent rod?
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 Old 03-09-2018, 07:57 AM   #11
 
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Right, i would remove the pan to check for rods and bearing or compare the pistons height thru the spark plug hole first thing first. If internals are bad, it is still time to rebuild it before one's get out of the bloc....
Ebay engine....humm....
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 Old 03-09-2018, 09:19 AM   #12
 
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Our blocks are like minimum security prisons. Given the chance, one of them bastard rods will escape.
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1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 03-09-2018, 04:23 PM   #13
 
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The heights of the pistons are the same. Anyone know where i can find the knock sensor? I looked all over net for a location and cant find. Thinking i pull the wire give it a drive see if my prpblems of no power the same or it will get power. I know it probly throw me in limp mode but trying to see if that sensor is bad or something else. I will do a leak down this weekend
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 Old 03-09-2018, 05:13 PM   #14
 
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Let's assume for a second you can drive without the knock sensor hooked up.
If your engine is actually knocking and the sensor isn't there to see it/pull timing, be prepared to pick up metal off the street.
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 03-09-2018, 06:59 PM   #15
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the knock sensor is on the front of the block, behind the intake manifold, between the injectors and pcv. not sure how often they really malfunction, but i guess anything is possible.
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 Old 03-09-2018, 07:10 PM   #16
 
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Here...
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File Type: png 2018-03-09 21.10.27.png (102.6 KB, 84 views)
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'06 MS6 GT-165k Miles(Forged@157,116)
Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings
Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds
Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC
CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount
White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB
Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite
JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D
Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate
Other rides:
2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD - 355k mile Speed support vehicle.
2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken (since Christmas 2015 and I really need to get rid of it)
History:
2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen (With several runs past 180, I'd probably be dead by now if it wasn't stolen. So in a way, I'm thankful.)
1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (Megasquirt, streetport, filter-on-turbo SRI, custom TBE, 20psi boost creep on OE turbo, OE TMIC on ice, 13.467 @ 105.44)
1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers)
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 Old 03-12-2018, 08:21 AM   #17
 
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it is probably the part that have the less chances to break on that car so unless it is open circuit or loose, i wouldn't do a pull without it or like said above prepare yourself to look for another engine....
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 Old 03-13-2018, 10:19 PM   #18
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wonder how many pieces OP's block is in now
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 Old 03-14-2018, 01:25 AM   #19
 
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Haha Block still in one piece... I know better to not go WOT to redline with out that sensor. Decided to replace the sensor and also take the time to look everything over to see if something was loose. Found nothing so pulling oil pan to check rods next and also timing chain.
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 Old 03-14-2018, 07:44 AM   #20
 
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safe move!
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1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...
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 Old 04-17-2018, 12:40 AM   #21
 
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From the logs i posted before i couldnt get my car above 4k rpm. i had boost but no power and shit ton of KR. I started to get a CEL for lean at idle bank 1. I replaced my intake manafold and throttle body gasket and looked for anything loose hitting around and couldnt find anything. i even put new injector seals and cleaned MAF sensor. still same problem. i did another compression test and it came out a shit ton better with 175-180 in all cyl. I tossed some E85 in tank and car started to run better and i could get my rpms up to about 5.5k but i had no boost and also my KR was gone. i could WOT and have 0 KR up to 5.5k. So i took off every hose and pipe and replaced with new clamps and if the hose looked bad i got a new. Now i hit boost and i have a shit ton more power. car feels strong but now im geting KR. it comes later like 4k rpm to where it was 3k before. Anyone have any idea whats going on with this car? Is it the tune causing this KR? Attached is a WOT 3rd gear. This is also a E85 tune.
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File Type: csv datalog127.csv (14.3 KB, 4 views)
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 Old 04-17-2018, 11:12 AM   #22
 
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Who tuned the car? Talk to your tuner about the KR.
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