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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in!


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 Old 11-19-2016, 05:47 PM   #1
 
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Default My 2008 Speed 3 will not hold an idle and rides rough at low rpm and low idle

This started right after I did a third gear pull to redline on this highway. The car is mostly a Cobb Stage 2 build with a pro tune, EGR delete and an OCC. The car starts up like normal, but immediately stalls. I have yet to get a CEL, though the dealer said they got a throttle related code, before the new throttle body, but didn’t have the code written down, so I never saw it. As long as the engine’s under load via the gas pedal or moving in gear it runs it’s like the car forgot how to idle. It also burn through fuel, but I haven't driven it much since this happened. I’ve tried several things and am really at a loss for what to try next and what this is. I appreciate any help you all can give on this issue.

Video of issue while parked
https://youtu.be/ZjmtRTXLI-I

Data logs when issue happened (Log of the 3rd gear pull, notice fuel cut and AFR seem odd after line 142 – which is when the issue must have happened)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Data Logs before the incident (months ago)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Data logs after issue happened
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Here’s what I’ve tried in the order I tried them. None of them made any difference…
1. Checked plugs – they have carbon deposits but seem ok
2. Cleaned the MAF (with CRC MAF cleaner) – voltage reading are around 2.5 V and air volume gets up to 28 at least.
3. Looked around for leaks (can’t promise I didn’t miss anything though)
4. Dealer checked fuel pressure and MAF, said both were fine.
5. Replaced the throttle body (a Mazda dealer said that was the issue). Then did an idle relearn (1 min ON position, 1 min OFF position, start engine).
6. Did a compression test – (cyl 1 = 166 psi, 2 = 155, 3=167, 4 = 170)
7. Checked the VVT and cams – VVT was aligned and working according to TSB (http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/01-010-11.pdf). Exhaust cam was off slightly so I aligned that.
8. Checked the purge valve - by pulling vacuum line and closing it off.
9. Checked PCV – by pulling hose leading to PCV off OCC and closing it off.
10. Changed plugs
11. Tested ignition coils
12. Disconnected the MAF - ** Car will now idle roughly, but will backfire and spit unburned gas.

Last edited by Dgms3; 11-20-2016 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Updates in bold
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 Old 11-19-2016, 05:55 PM   #2
 
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I have same issues in my 2007. I hope some one can shed some light here

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 Old 11-19-2016, 08:01 PM   #3
 
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Does it die when it warms up? I had a similar problem with my 07. There was an issue in the fusebox. 2nd FP fuse was not getting power, so it idled fine till it warmed up.

However, my car would not run at all once it warmed up. The fuel pressure would just drop so it must be something else.
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 Old 11-19-2016, 08:03 PM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by stockms3 View Post
Does it die when it warms up? I had a similar problem with my 07. There was an issue in the fusebox. 2nd FP fuse was not getting power, so it idled fine till it warmed up.
I had heard about this as well. Other than a volt meter I couldn't tell you a way to test it though

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 Old 11-19-2016, 08:04 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by stockms3 View Post
Does it die when it warms up? I had a similar problem with my 07. There was an issue in the fusebox. 2nd FP fuse was not getting power, so it idled fine till it warmed up.

However, my car would not run at all once it warmed up. The fuel pressure would just drop so it must be something else.
it stalls warm or not. Thank you for your help.
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 Old 11-19-2016, 11:01 PM   #6
 
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What's your afr when low idle?

I had a similar problem after installing sri, come to find out my bpv tube was no longer connected to my tip causing 18.5 afr and very rough 600ish idle and die.
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 Old 11-20-2016, 07:06 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Varomnia View Post
What's your afr when low idle?

I had a similar problem after installing sri, come to find out my bpv tube was no longer connected to my tip causing 18.5 afr and very rough 600ish idle and die.
About half of my AFRs are 29.25 the other half is 14.85 in sub 700 RPMs. Strange that it would stick with two values
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 Old 11-20-2016, 07:58 AM   #8
 
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Have you checked the MAF sensor connector wiring? (Check for broken wire)


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 Old 11-20-2016, 09:41 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Dgms3 View Post
About half of my AFRs are 29.25 the other half is 14.85 in sub 700 RPMs. Strange that it would stick with two values
Is the car throwing any codes? Have you pulled them?

Do you have a tuning solution?

Do you have aftermarket parts for any portion of the intake tract?

In my experience, when you start seeing binary AFR readings, that indicates that the primary O2 sensor has failed.
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 Old 11-20-2016, 10:24 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Is the car throwing any codes? Have you pulled them?



Do you have a tuning solution?



Do you have aftermarket parts for any portion of the intake tract?



In my experience, when you start seeing binary AFR readings, that indicates that the primary O2 sensor has failed.


No codes, it's pro tuned via a cobb ap. I'll check that o2 sensor. Thanks


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Originally Posted by stockms3 View Post
Does it die when it warms up? I had a similar problem with my 07. There was an issue in the fusebox. 2nd FP fuse was not getting power, so it idled fine till it warmed up.

However, my car would not run at all once it warmed up. The fuel pressure would just drop so it must be something else.


How did you fix it? Thanks for your help


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Last edited by Dgms3; 11-20-2016 at 10:24 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-20-2016, 10:50 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by nitroelectric View Post
Have you checked the MAF sensor connector wiring? (Check for broken wire)


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Getting good MAF voltage and flow numbers. I'll look at the wiring


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 Old 11-20-2016, 11:45 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Dgms3 View Post
No codes, it's pro tuned via a cobb ap. I'll check that o2 sensor. Thanks


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How did you fix it? Thanks for your help


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When you say "Pro-tuned" what, precisely, do you mean? Who tuned the car?
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 Old 11-20-2016, 12:00 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
When you say "Pro-tuned" what, precisely, do you mean? Who tuned the car?
Freektune, in fact the whole reason I did the 3rd gear pull was to give them updated data logs.
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 Old 11-20-2016, 12:48 PM   #14
 
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I had this issue with my 2010 and one of my ground wire was losses it was the ground wire right next to the hpfp so just make sure you check all of your ground wires too


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 Old 11-20-2016, 01:10 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by richt2831 View Post
I had this issue with my 2010 and one of my ground wire was losses it was the ground wire right next to the hpfp so just make sure you check all of your ground wires too


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Thanks will do


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 Old 11-20-2016, 08:49 PM   #16
 
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By God's grace, it's working now!!!


It was a huge vacuum leak from the bottom of the intake manifold. A hose must have ripped off of it. Don't know where it's supposed to go. I'll explain more later with pictures. Thanks everyone for your help.


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 Old 11-21-2016, 05:44 AM   #17
 
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A friend of mine had this exact problem a couple weeks back. Tuned out it was a vacuum leak at his perm plate and I was going to suggest that. Between his issue and yours I'm getting a greater understanding what the symptoms are and where to look. Glad it worked out and was nothing serious.
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 Old 11-23-2016, 03:42 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by bostongeorge View Post
A friend of mine had this exact problem a couple weeks back. Tuned out it was a vacuum leak at his perm plate and I was going to suggest that. Between his issue and yours I'm getting a greater understanding what the symptoms are and where to look. Glad it worked out and was nothing serious.
It turns out that I wasn't missing a hose, it was a vacuum cap that blew off. I went to the dealer to figure out what hose I was missing. Looking at the diagram I could tell it was capped off by the previous owner who installed an OCC. A mechanic at the dealership said that this blew due to boost pressure and that I need to be careful. My car's pushing 21 lbs of boost, but I know others are too. Maybe my BPV isn't working as it should, I don't know.
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