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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in!


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 Old 12-01-2015, 06:15 AM   #1
 
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Default Now what..P2006

Ok I have been doing research on this and I replaced my actuator at least I think that's what I was suppose to replace. Well the CEL is still on so now Im at a lost, I checked hoses and what not. Am I suppose to reset the PCM or should I be replacing something else. Google isn't helping me much.

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 Old 01-20-2016, 07:18 AM   #2
 
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bump! -- did you ever get this figured out?
i'm about to replace mine (i'm up for inspection this month and i'm about to fail for CEL being on)
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 Old 01-20-2016, 07:56 AM   #3
 
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Yes I believe so, that wasn't my problem, I found out that the previous own had done a VTCS delete and didn't finish up on it. Im going to just download access tune race from cobb and using the AP to block the CEL. Its not causing any running issues so I can just fix the actual problem whenever or never

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 Old 01-20-2016, 12:36 PM   #4
 
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I literally just went through this whole mess. Ended up ordering the actuator like you did and the CEL came back. Turned out the actuator arm was broken in half. I used QBond and extended it with a piece of metal to its appropriate length. It's been holding fine for now, so I guess its jsut a matter of time. Went to go to inspection after I got it fixed, and now im throwing P2178..it never ends.

I bought my car with an AP tune on it, but don't have the AP myself. If you block that CEL with the AP, can you still go to inspection and whatnot? Just curious.
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 Old 01-21-2016, 01:07 PM   #5
 
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Yes, some codes I believe will still throw a flag however I want to say this code will not. Had a guy told me his has been blocked for two years now so that tells me you wont get flagged for it. Dont quote me on it but thats what I know about it
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 Old 01-25-2016, 04:37 PM   #6
 
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I have a P2006 too, turns out the grey plastic piece that spins the flaps is broken. So the flaps are stuck close. Gonna have try to glue it back or something. My other option is to buy a used intake manifold. Yea, nope.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 06:06 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by tomazws View Post
I have a P2006 too, turns out the grey plastic piece that spins the flaps is broken. So the flaps are stuck close. Gonna have try to glue it back or something. My other option is to buy a used intake manifold. Yea, nope.
Last time I checked, there was a stock manifold on the Facebook Classifieds for Mazdaspeed for like $125 or so. Check it out if you're leaning to getting a new manifold.

I was in the same boat though. Dealer told me it would be $1500 for a new manifold just to fix P2006 because of the broken arm. Absolutely stupid for what I was able to do to fix it. In your case, would that be the physical actuator itself? I replaced that originally for like 30$ I think.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 06:44 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by LemonWrath View Post
Yes, some codes I believe will still throw a flag however I want to say this code will not. Had a guy told me his has been blocked for two years now so that tells me you wont get flagged for it. Dont quote me on it but thats what I know about it
Just a heads up: "Blocking" CELs usually results in putting the associated system in a "not ready" state when reading from a OBDII-port reader. In PA you will not pass inspection if you have more than two systems in a "not ready" state at the time of inspection. Depending on their inspection law, this may be loosened or more stringent in the state you live in.
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 Old 01-26-2016, 09:29 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaspeedKills View Post
Just a heads up: "Blocking" CELs usually results in putting the associated system in a "not ready" state when reading from a OBDII-port reader. In PA you will not pass inspection if you have more than two systems in a "not ready" state at the time of inspection. Depending on their inspection law, this may be loosened or more stringent in the state you live in.
Why do I have a feeling the previous owner blocked these...drove almost 500 miles and still had no luck getting the EGR and Evap to become "ready". Its at a shop now that can do inspections, so I'll know for sure if theyre not able to get the status to be ready and link that to the blocked state. However, the P2006 still showed up when the CEL came up, so maybe it wasn't blocked?

Either way, there's no way to remove this block without flashing the ECU with the Access Port, correct?
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 Old 01-26-2016, 10:01 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by tomazws View Post
I have a P2006 too, turns out the grey plastic piece that spins the flaps is broken. So the flaps are stuck close. Gonna have try to glue it back or something. My other option is to buy a used intake manifold. Yea, nope.
Originally Posted by tmaiorca View Post
Last time I checked, there was a stock manifold on the Facebook Classifieds for Mazdaspeed for like $125 or so. Check it out if you're leaning to getting a new manifold.

I was in the same boat though. Dealer told me it would be $1500 for a new manifold just to fix P2006 because of the broken arm. Absolutely stupid for what I was able to do to fix it. In your case, would that be the physical actuator itself? I replaced that originally for like 30$ I think.
You guys need to do more reading.

1. The grey plastic piece on the VTCS flapper rod does NOT spin anything. It simply contacts a sensor switch. When the plastic is broken, the switch never gets pressed, and you will throw a P2006, because the car doesn't know that the rod is actually being moved by the VTCS actuator (pic in first post in this thread) like it's supposed to be.

2. You can kluge something together to extend or otherwise "repair" the grey plastic piece on the VTCS flapper rod, but there is a much, much simpler (and cheaper) way.

Here's the simplest thing you can do:

- find the VTCS position sensor switch.
- note that it is on a small mounting plate with two screws.
- with a long philips-head screwdriver, unscrew the mounting plate.
- using pliers, bend the mounting plate slightly so that the switch can be mounted by one screw, and make contact with the metal portion of the VTCS flapper rod.
- screw it back together, and clear the P2006 code.
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 Old 05-02-2016, 01:12 PM   #11
 
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Thanks Vanquish for that idea about changing the mounting of the sensor switch! I changed my actuator a month or so ago and was pissed when I discovered the broken plastic arm nestled down beside the engine block. I have to get an emissions test done in a month and I never would have passed with this check engine light (I already have a blocked EGR and just barely passed last time).
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 Old 08-27-2016, 02:26 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
You guys need to do more reading.

1. The grey plastic piece on the VTCS flapper rod does NOT spin anything. It simply contacts a sensor switch. When the plastic is broken, the switch never gets pressed, and you will throw a P2006, because the car doesn't know that the rod is actually being moved by the VTCS actuator (pic in first post in this thread) like it's supposed to be.

2. You can kluge something together to extend or otherwise "repair" the grey plastic piece on the VTCS flapper rod, but there is a much, much simpler (and cheaper) way.

Here's the simplest thing you can do:

- find the VTCS position sensor switch.
- note that it is on a small mounting plate with two screws.
- with a long philips-head screwdriver, unscrew the mounting plate.
- using pliers, bend the mounting plate slightly so that the switch can be mounted by one screw, and make contact with the metal portion of the VTCS flapper rod.
- screw it back together, and clear the P2006 code.
Vanquish you are a life saver and a genius. This totally worked for me since the plastic piece broke off i have been trying to figure out the best way to go about it. This way is indeed simplest and cheapest. Thank you very much! No more P2006 and everything works perfectly fine now.
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 Old 08-27-2016, 03:09 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by afronese1 View Post
Vanquish you are a life saver and a genius. This totally worked for me since the plastic piece broke off i have been trying to figure out the best way to go about it. This way is indeed simplest and cheapest. Thank you very much! No more P2006 and everything works perfectly fine now.
I'm not as dumb as I look . . .

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Glad to hear it's working out.
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 Old 08-27-2016, 04:06 PM   #14
 
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Damn where was this last month. Ended up just turning the code off with the ap, but I'll do this next time i got a free evening to tinker.


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 Old 08-27-2016, 07:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
Damn where was this last month. Ended up just turning the code off with the ap, but I'll do this next time i got a free evening to tinker.


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Technically, it been here for several months, if you searched for it.

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 Old 08-28-2016, 05:30 AM   #16
 
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I was searching everything BUT P2006. I knew what was causing the code, I was searching for how to fix the arm, go figure. That's what I get for topic skimming.


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 Old 08-28-2016, 11:21 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by GroceryGtr View Post
I was searching everything BUT P2006. I knew what was causing the code, I was searching for how to fix the arm, go figure. That's what I get for topic skimming.


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So what have you done to fix p2006 before finding this? I always google keywords: CEL code + mazdaspeed. Never fails lol Let us know if Vanquish's way works for you if you go that route.
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 Old 08-28-2016, 12:16 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by afronese1 View Post
So what have you done to fix p2006 before finding this? I always google keywords: CEL code + mazdaspeed. Never fails lol Let us know if Vanquish's way works for you if you go that route.
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 Old 08-28-2016, 12:24 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
VanSquish!
I fixed the typo for you lol
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 Old 08-29-2016, 04:32 AM   #20
 
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Originally, I just turned the code off in ap. I had removed the rod and plates, leaving only the end with the arm to trick the system. So in my case the cel was purely cosmetic. I'll most likely go this route here in a week or so when I have some free time.


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 Old 08-29-2016, 05:09 AM   #21
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You can also just zip-tie the sensor switch, but I think that'll generate a different CEL eventually, as the ECU will see no change in the VTCS position that way either.
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 Old 08-30-2016, 04:37 AM   #22
 
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Yep it will pop a 2007 for stuck open condition, tried that lol. Your solution is the best thus far if you do. It have an ap.


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 Old 03-14-2017, 10:51 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
You guys need to do more reading.

1. The grey plastic piece on the VTCS flapper rod does NOT spin anything. It simply contacts a sensor switch. When the plastic is broken, the switch never gets pressed, and you will throw a P2006, because the car doesn't know that the rod is actually being moved by the VTCS actuator (pic in first post in this thread) like it's supposed to be.

2. You can kluge something together to extend or otherwise "repair" the grey plastic piece on the VTCS flapper rod, but there is a much, much simpler (and cheaper) way.

Here's the simplest thing you can do:

- find the VTCS position sensor switch.
- note that it is on a small mounting plate with two screws.
- with a long philips-head screwdriver, unscrew the mounting plate.
- using pliers, bend the mounting plate slightly so that the switch can be mounted by one screw, and make contact with the metal portion of the VTCS flapper rod.
- screw it back together, and clear the P2006 code.
Would this be completely different from the runner flap stuck closed in the intake manifold? I'm getting this code now which I ran with my Cobb access port and looked up that that's what it could be along with other issues. I took it to a shop and had them check out what it was for me and they confirmed it was the runner flap was what's getting stuck closed. They told me I have to replace the entire manifold costing me $1200. Or I could go with a used one which I don't want to do. Either I want that piece taken off so it runs wide open but idk if that's possible? If that is an option what other precautions or additional modifications will i need to do to my MS3..Or I look into getting a new mani that'll give me more power which I'm searching now if there's such a thing. I don't know too much about these, so any advise would tremendously help.

This is my baby and I hate taking it to the shop. Bought this brand new from the dealer in 2007. It's a 2008 Mazda speed3, 90k miles, six puck clutch from ACT, cold air intake, bov, and front mount intercooler.
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 Old 03-15-2017, 07:02 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by MS3JCG View Post
Would this be completely different from the runner flap stuck closed in the intake manifold? I'm getting this code now which I ran with my Cobb access port and looked up that that's what it could be along with other issues. I took it to a shop and had them check out what it was for me and they confirmed it was the runner flap was what's getting stuck closed. They told me I have to replace the entire manifold costing me $1200. Or I could go with a used one which I don't want to do. Either I want that piece taken off so it runs wide open but idk if that's possible? If that is an option what other precautions or additional modifications will i need to do to my MS3..Or I look into getting a new mani that'll give me more power which I'm searching now if there's such a thing. I don't know too much about these, so any advise would tremendously help.

This is my baby and I hate taking it to the shop. Bought this brand new from the dealer in 2007. It's a 2008 Mazda speed3, 90k miles, six puck clutch from ACT, cold air intake, bov, and front mount intercooler.
P2006 and P2009 are "stuck open" and "stuck closed" respectively. As long as the VTCS flapper rod isn't actually binding in place, the fix I wrote about will do the trick. If you're getting the "stuck closed" code, then you should check and see if the sensor position switch is contacting anything, if it is stuck in a compressed state, or if someone has zip-tied it in place (this is a common "fix" for P2006, but will cause a P2009).

If you have to replace something, then in a rough order of lowest to highest cost the replacement parts would be:

VTCS actuator
VTCS sensor position switch
Manifold (as the flapper rod with the plastic piece that always breaks is not serviceable).
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 Old 03-15-2017, 07:56 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
P2006 and P2009 are "stuck open" and "stuck closed" respectively. As long as the VTCS flapper rod isn't actually binding in place, the fix I wrote about will do the trick. If you're getting the "stuck closed" code, then you should check and see if the sensor position switch is contacting anything, if it is stuck in a compressed state, or if someone has zip-tied it in place (this is a common "fix" for P2006, but will cause a P2009).



If you have to replace something, then in a rough order of lowest to highest cost the replacement parts would be:



VTCS actuator

VTCS sensor position switch

Manifold (as the flapper rod with the plastic piece that always breaks is not serviceable).


Thank you Vanquish! The code I'm getting is the P2006. The shop is telling me the runner flap is getting stuck closed in the manifold. Do you have any recommendations where to get a modified manifold for my speed3. I found SR motor sports might have but I haven't dug deep enough yet. Thinking what I found is the flap piece that could be replaced.


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 Old 03-15-2017, 08:48 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by MS3JCG View Post
Thank you Vanquish! The code I'm getting is the P2006. The shop is telling me the runner flap is getting stuck closed in the manifold. Do you have any recommendations where to get a modified manifold for my speed3. I found SR motor sports might have but I haven't dug deep enough yet. Thinking what I found is the flap piece that could be replaced.


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You cannot replace the flapper. It is pretty much impossible to remove. Moreover, the plastic piece that has, no doubt, broken off of your VTCS flapper assembly cannot be replaced (it's a non-serviceable part). There's no precedent for the flapper itself binding up, unless someone has tampered with the manifold, so there's no point at all in getting a new manifold to replace the flapper itself.

Furthermore, any modified or aftermarket manifold will cause your car to continue to throw the P2006 code, as none have VTCS flappers. Moreover, they will all require that you actually tune the car, due to the change in airflow through the engine.

The part that breaks is well-known, and a simple 5-minute, no-cost, fix that maintains the use of all of the componentry is described in my post earlier in this thread here:

Now what..P2006
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 Old 03-15-2017, 09:08 AM   #27
 
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You're really helpful, so I gots some work to do..
I do have a tune, it was tuned a few years ago. I have a Cobb access port I think is what was used to tune my car. Need to figure out how to go about that. Thank you again for your help!!


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 Old 03-20-2017, 10:33 AM   #28
 
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I went to take off that sensor today, and the top screw came off no problem, bottom screw head is stripped. I didn't even put any real pressure on it. Guess the heat/time got to it. Any suggestions other than taking off the IM to get a screw extractor on it?

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 Old 03-20-2017, 01:30 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by marti74f View Post
I went to take off that sensor today, and the top screw came off no problem, bottom screw head is stripped. I didn't even put any real pressure on it. Guess the heat/time got to it. Any suggestions other than taking off the IM to get a screw extractor on it?
I took the sensor itself and spun it, which was enough to loosen that screw, and then I was able to use some pliers to turn it.
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 Old 03-21-2017, 08:15 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by Trithemius View Post
I took the sensor itself and spun it, which was enough to loosen that screw, and then I was able to use some pliers to turn it.
Thanks! Got it off and it's fixed. Forgot how much power was lost from being in limp mode. Nice job Vansquish.
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 Old 04-17-2017, 03:57 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by marti74f View Post
I went to take off that sensor today, and the top screw came off no problem, bottom screw head is stripped. I didn't even put any real pressure on it. Guess the heat/time got to it. Any suggestions other than taking off the IM to get a screw extractor on it?
This was my issue. Unfortunately, whilst taking it off with vice grips, I snapped the screw head straight off. So now the shaft is stuck in the hole. Gotta love it
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