P0335 Crank Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

[Tokay444]

20th tooth back from the missing tooth rite?

[bmylez]

What other 20th tooth is there?

[SilverDemon]

After my timing slipped, the ecu would still target 10* with out issue, just the fueling was off (not hold stoich, but the trims would stay well with in reason...talk about a head scratcher). The minuet I checked and moved the sensor position with the mechanical timing the car went back to holding stoich at idle just fine. For safety measure I did not drive the car again. I am currently installing an entire new timing assembly.

[bmylez]

Well, Scott, here's the thing. You said your trims were within reason but not holding stoich. My trims are sometimes normal, sometimes way whacked out, but the rich at idle does give a clue. How do you know it slipped a tooth? Do I need to remove the timing cover to check this? Anything else I can look at? And the fact that my timing at idle is as high as 14*...what does that mean???

[SilverDemon]

Originally Posted by bmylez Well, Scott, here's the thing. You said your trims were within reason but not holding stoich. My trims are sometimes normal, sometimes way whacked out, but the rich at idle does give a clue. How do you know it slipped a tooth? Do I need to remove the timing cover to check this? Anything else I can look at? And the fact that my timing at idle is as high as 14*...what does that mean???

Ooohh... I don't know...My ignition timing read out on the dash hawk did not move, always stayed ~10*...I know weird... hahah

It did not slip entire tooth on the reluctor wheel on the crank pulley, it went from being in the center of the 20th tooth, the bottom of the 20th tooth, when the #1 piston was at TDC.

You mentioned that you aligned the sensor, but then you also mentioned that you do not have the timing tools. Checking the timing and aligning that sensor cannot be done (at least accurately) with out at least the timing peg and a 6mm bolt long enough to fit through the crank pulley.

After I aligned the sensor, I pulled the valve cover off and could see that the cams were off enough that I did not need to install the plate. I kept throwing the random misfire code since the ECU thought the timing was advanced farther than it really was.

I think I was on the verge of thrashing the valves in the head ARRRGG!!!

EDIT: Do you have the EGR pipe still piped up to the intake mani? A slightly stuck EGR may cause the whacky trims at time.

[bmylez]

Not trying to blame Dustin, but he said all I needed to do was line up the hole in the crank pulley with the hole in the block. Are you telling me that when I lined up the holes, I wasn't necessarily at TDC? If that is the case, I am getting a timing pin ASAP. Fuck...

[bmylez]

Alright, I'm gonna have a timing pin overnighted. I doubt this will solve all my problems, but if my timing isn't right (which it surely isn't at this point), then it will mask any other problems.

[Tokay444]

Get new crank bolt and friction washers as well.

[SilverDemon]

Well...there is no way to tell if the #1 piston is at TDC with out the timing peg. If you are aligning the sensor just based off the hole in the block behind the pulley, then yes, there is no way to be sure that it is at TDC. How many times have you aligned the sensor this way? Because if the sensor keeps needing to be adjusted, then something is moving... I would get it checked soon....

[bmylez]

The only reason I've adjusted the sensor is that I was dumb the first time I moved it and thought, "Well, since I only have one bolt to secure it, I'll eye it the best I can." That was back in...March I think. Car ran pretty well. I even switched from SB to AP and made good power. No abnormalities. I just started having all these issues after all my BT setups failed miserably and my k04 died. So now I've swapped to working k04, car runs weird sometimes (I've detailed it all in my thread in this section).

So the reason I've had to adjust the sensor more than once is I moved it to begin with, then everyone freaked out on me so I tried to correct it. I just misunderstood what Dustin told me.

[SilverDemon]

Hahaha... OK, I think all dustin was saying is that you can check to see if any thing is moved. Since you have moved it, it would be great to just double check if everything is back in line. No harm if everything lines back up!!

Keep us updated!!

[bmylez]

No, I can show you his post. He was telling me how to re-align the crank sensor, but he assumed I knew that I had to get to TDC before putting the crank pin in. Not his fault, just assumptions on both sides.

I already know the sensor is not lined up correctly...I'm running 14* at idle sometimes!!!

Also, what do you use to hold the crank pulley in place to remove the crank bolt? Not sure if there is a cheaper option out there...

[SilverDemon]

I have a very similar tool to this one. The difference is the one I have has adjustable pin locations.

EDIT: The first pic I posted was the wrong pulley holding tool.... I removed that pic....sorry

[bmylez]

Why must it be so expensive?

You have a link for which one you bought?

[SilverDemon]

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ey-tool-98467/ He found one that is much better than the one I have

[Tokay444]

iPhone URL:
Sealey Crank Pulley Holder Tool Ford Duratec - VS4736

Browser URL:
Sealey Crank Pulley Holder Tool Ford Duratec - VS4736


Download eBay Mobile

D'oh

Look at this on eBay:

Sealey Crank Pulley Holder Tool Ford Duratec - VS4736

Sealey Crank Pulley Holder Tool Ford Duratec - VS4736 | eBay

There.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon Tomas and bmylez, are both of your cars built? Or, have they had the timing components removed and reinstalled?

My bottom and head are all stock. No components as far as internals have been messed with so far.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 What are your guys' ignition advance at idle? It should be a pretty steady 10*

Great point.
I just went down to crank the engine to check it but it won't start. God damn motherfucker. During the day I'll see what I put back together wrong.

Originally Posted by bmylez I just aligned it yesterday. The line on the sensor is smack dab in the middle of the 20th tooth. One thing, though...the fuckin shop that built the motor broke one of the bolts that holds the sensor, so it has some back and forth play, but I lined it up as best I could. I was thinking of checking the air gap, since I just read about it in the manual. If airgap is off, I'm sure that will affect it.

The gap tolerance is 0.5 to 1.5mm.
I think one bolt alone can hold the sensor in place. But to be safe, you should drill a lil deeper in the hole they fucked up and re-tap the hole to see if you can get a screw to hold, The screws are not that long and I believe there is enough meat in the block to drill about 5mm deeper. Take a tap with no starting thread so you can cut the thread all the way to the bottom of the hole. You might have to sacrifice a tap to do this by grinding the starting thread of . I believe its M6.

[Tokay444]

Maybe that won't work.
Says 1.8/2.0 duratechs

[SilverDemon]

That is a hell of a lot cheaper than the OTC part number.... I saw a price of $216 from the link I posted.....

[SilverDemon]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Maybe that won't work. Says 1.8/2.0 duratechs

It sure looks it will work... but not willing to gamble $140 just to find out...


Shit, I need to start making these tools....

[Tomas]

Shit esse.
Put the fucker in 6th gear and take an impact gun to that crank bolt> crank pulley tool.

[SilverDemon]

Originally Posted by bmylez Why must it be so expensive? You have a link for which one you bought?

Amazon.com: Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder: Automotive

Amazon.com: Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder: Automotive
Amazon.com: Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder: Automotive

[bmylez]

Originally Posted by Tomas The gap tolerance is 0.5 to 1.5mm. I think one bolt alone can hold the sensor in place. But to be safe, you should drill a lil deeper in the hole they fucked up and re-tap the hole to see if you can get a screw to hold, The screws are not that long and I believe there is enough meat in the block to drill about 5mm deeper. Take a tap with no starting thread so you can cut the thread all the way to the bottom of the hole. You might have to sacrifice a tap to do this by grinding the starting thread of . I believe its M6.

They didn't strip the hole in the block, they BROKE the bolt INSIDE of the block. My drill isn't strong enough to start drilling into it. Fuckin bonehead knuckle draggers.

Scott: So you're not entirely sure that will hold the crank correctly or it should work well enough?

[Tokay444]

First acquire left hand helix drill, then worry about drilling.

[SilverDemon]

Originally Posted by bmylez Scott: So you're not entirely sure that will hold the crank correctly or it should work well enough?

No, I am not totally sure the tool in the link will work for our application. It resembles the style I borrowed, but it does not look as beefy. I went out to the garage to look for part numbers on the tool I have, no luck. I will ask my buddy tomorrow where he bought it. The last thing I want is for you to get ass hole deep in this, and then find out that the tool will not work.

[Tokay444]

SPEED6 KILLAH had a good ford tool.
Took a Johnson bar.

[chimmike]

Originally Posted by bmylez Not trying to blame Dustin, but he said all I needed to do was line up the hole in the crank pulley with the hole in the block. Are you telling me that when I lined up the holes, I wasn't necessarily at TDC? If that is the case, I am getting a timing pin ASAP. Fuck...

dude, this is what I fuckin told you! Didn't I tell you the FSM page to refer to and everything in shout?!!

[SilverDemon]

Yup... and that tool is over $200...

[Tokay444]

Ah.

[bmylez]

Originally Posted by chimmike dude, this is what I fuckin told you! Didn't I tell you the FSM page to refer to and everything in shout?!!

Well, from how I interpreted the post, it was too late. You told me AFTER I had already done it. I'm having a TDC pin overnighted. No biggie.

Here's the post: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1148293

[Tomas]

Oh.

[Tomas]

Replaced the cranks sensor. Still not working.
I will start looking at mechanical problems. I know fuel pressure is there so I will start with spark plugs and coils.

[atvfreek]

I would check to see if you have a spark signal before replacing coils and plugs.

Tappin

[SilverDemon]

I am sick of paying the over rated prices of OTC tools....so I did something about it!

[Tomas]

ok. Problem fixed.
It wasn't the CKPS as suspected.
So this is what a loose clamp can do. 12 hours of work and $70 in parts for being an imbecil.
I didn't tie down the worm clamp on the turbo outlet all the way and while at the track was loosing pressure and running rich pretty much constantly while on boost. Unfortunately given that I assumed a slipping clutch instead of operator error, the plugs got so fouled while going WOT all the time that the car was probably not igniting in one of the cylinder at all. To my defense, the car felt identical in this condition to a slipping clutch. I should have known though that the clutch ussualy won't start slipping till its hot while at the track the vehicle showed this condition of slowly rising and falling RPMs while WOT even when cold.

I can only guess the P0335 code will appear if one of the cylinders isn't firing properly. What's strange is I would have guessed I should have also gotten a P0300... misfire code.

[SilverDemon]

Weird man... glad you tracked it down. Good info

[bmylez]

djuosnteisn chimmike Got my TDC pin and I FINALLY fixed the crank sensor correctly, hahaha.

After putting the pin in, I was off by prolly 1/3 - 1/2 a tooth, which is obviously a big deal. I also remembered to air gap it correctly. Pulled out my feeler gauge kit and used a .508mm and .487mm plate or some shit. The spec is .5 to 1.5mm, so I shot for the middle.

[11cruzito11]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon I am sick of paying the over rated prices of OTC tools....so I did something about it!

Very nice Scott! Looks so much better than the one I have made.

Can you make me one?

[bmylez]

Yeah, and what's your price?

[SilverDemon]

I actually thought about making another one so the guys could borrow it, or making a few to sell.... let me do some checking on material and what not and see if I can come up with something.