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| MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Troubleshoot/Diagnostics - Have a problem with the car? CEL Code? Want to discuss other issues? Come on in! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score so a week ago im driving to my mechanic shop to get my ecu cable fixed (AP would not connect), I warm her up and about 10k into my trip I give her a little blast around 3500rpms in 4th and wham, all the sudden the car starts to jump/studder, like im riding the droping the clutch ever 2 seconds, I pulled over, and shiut her down, started it back up 10 mins later and it was still doing it lightly, so i was going to try and drive to the shop and all the sudden it stops, I drive like a granny to the shop and he jumps in to test it, I do a full run into 6th,m woting all the way and it was fine, so he plugged in his computer (after fixing the cable) and it showed nothing. so I FINALY link up my AP, set my map, and she was pulling like hell, no problems.... Today, Im pissing around and I decided to giver her a little bit in boost, wham, same thing has happened. this time worse, It took me 20 mins to drive 5 k. can anyone help me? Im really new to turbos. mods are CIA, and AP. please help! |
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sounds like a bad ignition coil
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How do i find out for sure, I mean if its not showing on the computer, fml
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test it. You might get the shit shocked out of you though. that is weird that it's not throwing a cel
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Sounds like what was wrong with mine, the spark plugs were gapped wrong for my setup. Have you touched your plugs, try out the coil mod might help.
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no i have not done anything, how do I do the coil mod? forgive me im uber newby
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I had a problem like that in my tiburon when I had it. Gave it gas, and that joker stuttered through first until I shifted into second. I couldn't really accelerate aggressively without shaking it to pieces. Noticed a fuel smell coming in when I used my vents, ended up being the plugs.
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stock gap = .032 itv 22 gap = .026 - .028 When you stretch the coils, only stretch the ends (you'll notice the ends are less densely coiled).
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As a general rule if the car is stuttering you shouldn't be doing WOT runs. That's a good way to end up picking up pieces of your block, off the highway.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How to stretch your coils I haven't done it, but there's the how to. And while you're doing that you can pull the plugs and check them over.
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Did you buy your car new or used? As the guys mentioned, try to avoid wide open throttle operation until you figure out what your problem is. What you are describing sounds like some sort of boost / fuel cut.
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This sort of thing happened to me when I shredded a MAF wire (poorly placed clamp + engine movement = chewed wire). So, if the above answers don't work, maybe it's a MAF problem?
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Could this be anything else?? Anyone have any other ideas or suggestions?
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Can you log some normal driving and post the log?
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subbed for information on the cia mod.
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Rotten eggs smell=blown out/clogged catalytic converter If the cats is clogged it could cause major back pressure issues causing the car to stumble. Mileage of the car?
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My car has a sort of sulfuric smell (no stumble though), but it's only got 19k miles or so. It seems unreasonable to me that it would go out so soon.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It certainly shouldn't be within 20k miles of ownership. I'd take it to the dealer asap with that concern.
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I bought the car used, its got 60,000 kilometers on it, shes been fine until this week, The thing is, i cant even drive it in 2000rpms in any gear, im staying out of boost completely. No engine light or anything. I found the thread, but it doesnt show where the ignition spring part is located. Fml. Where is the MAF sensor wire located ill check it all out |
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__________________ CPE ATMOSPHERE KIT / (GTX3071 w/ .82 hotside A/R) ● CPE HPFP ● CPE RMM ● CPE FMIC ● CPE TOW PLATE ● CPE TRITON CBE ● HTP 3" TIP ● HTP BATTERY RELOCATE● COBB AP ● GRIMMSPEED 3 PORT BCS ● COOLING MIST / DEVILS OWN METHANOL INJECTION ● DEFI Boost gauge ● TWM FULL REPLACMENT ● TWM M1 ABRAMS ● JBR SSP ● JBR RSB JBR TIG ● H&R COILOVERS● JUMPING JACKSON 3 BAR MAP HARNESS ● STOPTECH STAINLESS LINES ● AKEBONO EURPO 915a ● TANABE STRUT BRACE ● NEXTMOD M'z KIT CORKSPORT UNDERHOOD LED KIT ● GRAM LIGHTS 57 DR ● TOYO PROXES PLUS |
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I know the plugs get blamed way to much but that is where I would start. Pull them out check for fouling and make sure they have the right gap.
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Go past 2k rpms and it starts bucking violently, right? The MAF sensor is the little square thing on the intake that has five wires coming from it. Mine was actually torn, but I'd imagine the same thing could occur from having a poorly connected wire. So, check each wire's connections at both the MAF sensor and the ECU (other end of the wire). If your connections are solid, try cleaning your MAF sensor. If that doesn't work, you may need a new one. But, first, check for what the other guys are suggesting. They know a HELL of a lot more than I do; I'm still working on getting my wings.
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well I dont understand how it happened last week, I turned the car off than it ran great, then today the problem came back, does this narrow anything down?
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So you're saying it happens sporadically? In that case, it's probably not a MAF issue, because that would probably be a 100% of the time thing (I don't know, because I fixed my problem right when I got home). It's more likely to be a plug problem, in that case.
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use the AP and moniter everything you dont know who did what to the car before you got it . if you are monitering when this happens you may get lucky and see what the issue could be or even catch a log that might help figure it out.. like everyone said check plugs,maf and connections,and your cats. would be a good idea to check all the connections while youre in there (boost tubes and electrical).
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OK, so I started her up again, and she started to shudder, than it slowly got better and disappeared, wtf? so confusing
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![]() | | #30 | ![]() |
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So your idle is fucked also?? Have you checked plugs/coils yet like 110% of people mentioned? Or anything anyones mentioned?? If so clean maf also just to rule it out and it can't hurt anything 5to do that. Since your gen1 with a good bit if miles try reading up on some EGR valve issue... If they fall into your symptoms clean the valve (search for the howto) instead of spending $$$ on a new valve... Just my 2cents... Kinda swasted rite noe lol yeee
__________________ 2010 Liquid Silver MS3 // JBR 3.5" WP // CS TMIC // KMD HPFP // 3" Catless DP/RP // TS Dual Port // Cobb AP // GS EBCS // ITV-22's // MD OCC // Dizzy Tune // JBR Dog Bone RMM // JBR Heavy Knob // JBR Solid Shifter Bushings // JBR Short Shifter Plate // JBR RSB // JBR 80D PMM // H&R Springs // // 6K HID // 35% tint // 12"RF with Infinity Amp // 17x8 Enkei RPF1's // Waiting to put in: 3bar Map + MJ Harness & BNR S3 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to ChimmyChong For This Useful Post: | redmnsterut (03-30-2012) |
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Nvm... Just read your post prob not EGR... Had the TL R thing going on lol
__________________ 2010 Liquid Silver MS3 // JBR 3.5" WP // CS TMIC // KMD HPFP // 3" Catless DP/RP // TS Dual Port // Cobb AP // GS EBCS // ITV-22's // MD OCC // Dizzy Tune // JBR Dog Bone RMM // JBR Heavy Knob // JBR Solid Shifter Bushings // JBR Short Shifter Plate // JBR RSB // JBR 80D PMM // H&R Springs // // 6K HID // 35% tint // 12"RF with Infinity Amp // 17x8 Enkei RPF1's // Waiting to put in: 3bar Map + MJ Harness & BNR S3 |
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
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Ok guys, I have checked my intake sensor, it looked fine, i felt inside my CAI and it seemed like it had quiet a bit of moisture in it, but i live in vancouver and its really misty and cold here. the cables looked fine, but I didnt check them with MM yet. I did the Ignition spring mod, its no longer stuttering in 1st or 2nd, but when im in 3rd in past 3500-4500 rpm and almost at wot shut cuts right back, I tried two runs, with the same problem. so tomorrow, I will grab spark plug spacers, and try that, as for monitoring, what would you suggest I focus on? I dont want to be doing a whole bunch of runs. thanks |
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What is your AFR?
__________________ 2011 Black MS3 -GTX3071R , 38mm Tial Wastegate, CPE Exhaust Manifold, Cobb AP, HKS SSQV 4, Autotech Internals, JBR SSP & Bushings, JBR Fully mounted 88 duro, JBR OCC, JBR EGR delete, TWM M1Knob, H&R springs, Ultimate Racing Turbo back, NKG plugs, CP-E FMIC, big MAF, big TIP, Grimmspeed MBC, SPC Rear Camber Arms, JBR Sway bar. 2006 Jeep Wrangler -20 grand of Shit |
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__________________ - 06 Black Mica MS6 - - GT3071R 24PSI - CP-e CAI - CP-e BT TIP - ATP Catted DP - JBR RMM - Corksport TMIC - Cobb AP - - Autotech Internals - Turbo XS 50/50 - DSS Rear Axle - Sure Juggernaught & Dreadnaught - - E20 - GS EBCS - H&R Springs - Sure TIG's - PNP'D Intake Manifold - EGR Delete - 12.89 @ 104.9 1.82 60' 4500' ASL on K04 20 PSI E30 12.01 @ 113.9 1.80 60' 4500' ASL on 3071 22 PSI E20 Dynojet 301 AWHP 359 AWTQ SAE Corrected on K04 and Corn Dynojet 391 AWHP 387 AWTQ SAE Corrected on 3071 and Corn | |
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I am having the same problem on my MS6, in third when im doing logs or getting on the gas it will sputter/stutter for a quick second then be gone, once i feel it i back off the throttle. I am also getting this in 4th as well. Got some new plugs ordered and going to be doing the coil stretch as well. Its weird cause it was doing this before I installed my tip in internals but worse, and now its not nearly as bad, but still relevant. Subscribed to see what else my be causing this.
__________________ SURE RMM | SURE Shift Weight | SURE SSP | CP-E CAI | CP-E DP | CP-E TIP | COBB AP |SnailD Tunned| TEIN Springs | SU Turbosmart BPV | Autotech HPFP Internals | Autolite XP step colder plugs | JBR Heavy Shift Knob | CXracing FMIC | Block8 Single Gauge Pod | MSD DashHawk Waiting to be installed: SURE Dreadnaught | JBR Shifter Bushings | SU Boost Tubes | P&P Intake Manifold Soon to come:SURE Intake/TB TIG | SURE Juggernaught | RSB | 286awhp / 346lbs tq @4500 ft ASL [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
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