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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 08-20-2018, 09:10 AM   #1
 
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Default Aem kit with solenoid

Hello guys.

I've got an aem meth kit running with two devils own nozzles (due to size). I've diched the aem check valves and devils own tend to fail often. So i got a solenoid from snow performance. Now my controller doesn't have a solenoid wire. How can i connect this solenoid?

Hope ya guys can help me out!
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 Old 08-20-2018, 11:51 AM   #2
 
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If the normal state of the solenoid is closed, (meaning when power is applied it opens) simply splice it into the orange wire in your diagram. you only need it open when the pump is running.
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 Old 08-20-2018, 12:17 PM   #3
 
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i would not do that since the controler modulate the pump voltage to adjust flow when the solenoid need a constant 12v...It can seem to work and burn the coil after a while...

A boost switch set slightly lower than controller starting point will solve it.

Peace of mind could be to get a controler with a wire for it or even a lot better: the aquamist dizi controler but $$$

It is hard to get the tank above the pump but below the injeciton point....So a solenoid is needed. You need to confirm if it is made for high pressure or low pressure side and install it before or after the pump. I tried both with success.

Make sure your check valve is clean and after a while: cleaning the tank, jet and the pump isn't a bad thing either...
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 Old 08-20-2018, 01:48 PM   #4
 
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Agree with Jeff23spl. If orange wire voltage varies (likely does but you should test for this for piece of mind), you will need to determine the required minimum voltage for the solenoid to open and stay open while spraying. You obviously will not want the solenoid to be closed, partially open or continually opening and closing when the system should be spraying. Your only easy alternative is the pressure actuated switch specifically for the solenoid as Jeff mentioned.
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 Old 08-20-2018, 03:00 PM   #5
 
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Thanks guys. Orange wire does vary on voltage. The boost switch idea i like. Where can i find one of those?
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 Old 08-21-2018, 08:32 AM   #6
 
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parts from cheaper non progressive w/m, ebay or
https://www.snowperformance.net/Wate.../sno-81014.htm
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 Old 08-21-2018, 09:09 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by stonecold0469 View Post
Thanks guys. Orange wire does vary on voltage. The boost switch idea i like. Where can i find one of those?
I would contact AEM. Perhaps there is a way to run a relay coil off of an aux output on the controller (may be lower DC voltage) to supply the correct voltage (12VDC) to your solenoid.
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 Old 08-21-2018, 07:16 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
parts from cheaper non progressive w/m, ebay or
https://www.snowperformance.net/Wate.../sno-81014.htm
Thanks Jeff, ill order that from snow.

Thor, i already did, besides their upgraded controller it won't work.

Also how would i connect the solenoid & boost switch?
Solenoid has two wires (imagine power & ground) also solenoid can work on both low & high pressure side. Boost switch has 3 pins as far as wiring goes.

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 Old 08-22-2018, 09:28 AM   #9
 
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the switch will probably have a common, a normally open and a close contact. You dont need the closed contact because you want to activate it when pressure is ABOVE the setpoint.
So you can give a constant fused 12v+ to your solenoid and wire the switch acrosse the negative source in serie. (Use common and NO to interrupt the negative lead). Or do it on the positive side but since the switch have exposed terminals, i would better cut the ground just in case it short to chassis ground you won't blew the fuse.
You can use a separate fuse or if you use the same power as the controller, make sure to use proper cable size for the fuse size. You can use anything like 10a fuse with 16awg or 15amps fuse with 14awg wire.
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 Old 08-23-2018, 02:50 AM   #10
 
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The boost switch on a solinoid is a great idea. I would add this. Give the boost switch (NO Norminally open) ignition power. I believe the yellow arm wire goes to ignition so i would use that wire as the power. The other end of the switch (COMMON) goes to the solinoid.
This is what is great about this setup. Put the solenoid on the low pressure side of the pump. Then run the other end of the solinoid wire to inside and mount a switch on the dash and connect the wire to the switch. Ground the other side of the switch.

If the pump freaks out ( imagine if the wire from the pump grounds out then the pump will continue to fill your motor with meth whether it is on or off making you a sad person when you bend your rods ) you can just flip the switch off and cut meth flow all together. Boost switches aren't foolproof because they're simple. My boost switch got stuck in the on position after a run and my meth kept pumping. I wired a switch in and killed power and saved my motor.
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 Old 08-23-2018, 05:37 AM   #11
 
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To flood the engine with that setup, you would need the mecanical pressure switch to stuck + the AEM map sensor to freeze or go crazy at the same time. The chances are lowered a lot compared to a single triggering device. But the switch is fun even if it is just for checking the difference with or without meth....

It happened to me also, the boost line going to the aem map had freeze during a cold winder day, I started the car and while it was warming up, meth was pumping into the engine. Fortunately the tank wasn't full at that time but as soon as i pushed it, the juice standing on my fmic piping got pushed into the engine and i lost everyone behind in a huge white smoke.....I didn't break anything but i got lucky.

Now i have a controler that only shoot meth if RPM, MAF and Boost is above a trigger so it won't happen again...
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 Old 08-23-2018, 06:23 PM   #12
 
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That pump has constant power all the time. All the other wire needs to do is ground out or have the controler short out and the pump is going full speed no matter what. The pump will dump it all into the motor and pop the fuse when it runs out and overspins or breaks then op starts the car not thinking anything out of the normal and bam bent rod.

There are a few threads of this very situation that has happened.

A solenoid on the pump feed with the boost switch on IGNITION means there is no way in hell meth will pump with ignition off. the pump has very low suction power so you will end up with a fucked pump and not a motor. Im super wary ever since my boost switch froze on me so i am a mega preacher about safety safety safety. Wear a condom with hand jobs, put the solinoid on the pump feed every time to ing, put seran wrap over that vag before touching it, look both ways before crossing the street and dont bare ass the public bathroom seat!!
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 Old 08-24-2018, 01:40 PM   #13
 
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We both agree about the same, the safe setup i was talking about was WITH the solenoid on the boost switch. so both need to break at the same time to flood. (The aem controler alone isn't safe)
Taking power from ignition is 1 more safe step but it doesn't matter which side you cut but if you choose the positive side, just make sure to carefully cover the exposed terminals of the switch....You can use a condom but it is a bit thin for that ....

I also use a solenoid because of check valve leaks and also for safety. the pump is MAF/RPM progressively driven while the solenoid is on another output driven by boost map. I think about doing the opposite (pulse the solenoid to adjust the amount and start the pump at full speed) but i just don't do it because it will be less safe than what i have now.
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