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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 04-10-2012, 04:26 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 View Post
Did anybody on here ever resolve this dropping fuel pressure issue? I am having fuel pressure drop down to 1300 at wot. It happens at peak torque/load. I haz cpe pump, I ran 4 gallons of eth for 6 months but am runnin pump on my new build, it does recover, and I do hit peak pressure when I let off.

Also, it could be coincidence, but it seems to get worse with each progressive pull. Two days ago I tried cleaning my spill valve (I will try to do it more thoroughly today) and went out for a few logs. The first log was fine, second dropped to 1500s and third dropped to 1300s. These logs were within 5-8 minutes of each other.
Same with my pump swapped spill valves got better. Then the same thing happened, after that I put in a new pump with internals and it was fine for 5+ pulls then the fp started to dip. Also the only time my fp dips is when idc>100%
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 Old 04-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
Same with my pump swapped spill valves got better. Then the same thing happened, after that I put in a new pump with internals and it was fine for 5+ pulls then the fp started to dip. Also the only time my fp dips is when idc>100%
From what dj described in my build thread for ways that pumps fail, it sounds like yours is not spill valve/hpfp related.

Hpfp/spill valve problems from what I understand happen at peak load/torque. Problems related to the itfp and relief valve (I think) happen at peak airflow, which I'm sure is when your IDC is >100.

... I'm not smart, just regurgitating from a reliable source.

'I can not remember if it is the last or second to last page, but dj gives me a run down of main culprits of dropping fuel pressure.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1351923
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 Old 04-10-2012, 06:27 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
Same with my pump swapped spill valves got better. Then the same thing happened, after that I put in a new pump with internals and it was fine for 5+ pulls then the fp started to dip. Also the only time my fp dips is when idc>100%
Have you done any testing with the fuel injector latency table in ATR? Lower that value by 0.01 at a time until you are <100% IDC. @cld12pk2go did some testing and even at 0.90 latency he hasn't seen any increase in EGT's. I wouldn't just go lowering your latency based on his results, but it is promising.


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 Old 04-15-2012, 12:07 AM   #44
 
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I have autotech internals in my pump and last night after about 6 runs at an 1/8 mile drag strip and a 10 minute drive home, my fuel pump started rattling. Act fp is 185-280 at idle. Pulled out the pump, took fp apart and nothing really looked bad at all, the only things I noticed was at the end of the internals, was gray. Autotechs come in black. Gray part was from wear. No scoring though. Put the pump back in, act fp pressure was at 260-340 with rattling. Any clues?
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 Old 04-15-2012, 03:06 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by Matthew Myers View Post
I have autotech internals in my pump and last night after about 6 runs at an 1/8 mile drag strip and a 10 minute drive home, my fuel pump started rattling. Act fp is 185-280 at idle. Pulled out the pump, took fp apart and nothing really looked bad at all, the only things I noticed was at the end of the internals, was gray. Autotechs come in black. Gray part was from wear. No scoring though. Put the pump back in, act fp pressure was at 260-340 with rattling. Any clues?
I have had the same thing minus the drag strip. My auto techs turned grey and I replaced with stock. Fuel pressure at idle is 180-260. I'm going to be swapping the intank pump, relief valve and hpfp, next week. I'll try and post up after I do the installs.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 07:04 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Jhornbrook View Post
I have had the same thing minus the drag strip. My auto techs turned grey and I replaced with stock. Fuel pressure at idle is 180-260. I'm going to be swapping the intank pump, relief valve and hpfp, next week. I'll try and post up after I do the installs.
Let me know how everything turns out after that. I am convinced that it happens to be the relief valve.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 07:24 PM   #47
 
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I am having almost the same issue and @phate seems to think it is my RV since i changed to a totally different pump and it is doing the same thing.

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 Old 04-15-2012, 07:26 PM   #48
 
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Remember guys, quick RV check is with the car off fuel pressure should be 900 psi or higher. If its 100 or lower its the RV
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 Old 04-15-2012, 07:27 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by triphop631 View Post
I am having almost the same issue and @phate seems to think it is my RV since i changed to a totally different pump and it is doing the same thing.

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PT-Performance.com

This link should help some of the guys in here as far as finding the part upgrade.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 07:43 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by triphop631 View Post
I am having almost the same issue and @phate seems to think it is my RV since i changed to a totally different pump and it is doing the same thing.

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I just had another gentleman having trouble after many data logs of solid pressure. Just a slight drop in pressure on the low end, and other low blips here and there. New RV went in Friday night and his fuel pressure is AMAZING now. 2k psi like it's nothing.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 07:44 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
I just had another gentleman having trouble after many data logs of solid pressure. Just a slight drop in pressure on the low end, and other low blips here and there. New RV went in Friday night and his fuel pressure is AMAZING now. 2k psi like it's nothing.
Thanks, @phate

Guess I will be ordering the ptp one. Which pressure should I get?

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 Old 04-15-2012, 08:01 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by triphop631 View Post
Thanks, phate

Guess I will be ordering the ptp one. Which pressure should I get?

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Didn't even know they had different pressure valves available. We can only read up to 2070 (?) with the stock sensor, so we won't be targeting anything over 1950-2k psi.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 08:11 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
Didn't even know they had different pressure valves available. We can only read up to 2070 (?) with the stock sensor, so we won't be targeting anything over 1950-2k psi.
1950
2050
2150
2250

Would 2050 be overkill?

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 Old 04-16-2012, 04:53 AM   #54
 
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Originally Posted by phate

I just had another gentleman having trouble after many data logs of solid pressure. Just a slight drop in pressure on the low end, and other low blips here and there. New RV went in Friday night and his fuel pressure is AMAZING now. 2k psi like it's nothing.
Was there any rattling at all? Mine has a REALLY LOUD rattle. Could be coming from underneath fuel pump, but definitely coming from that general area.

Also when we unplugged the solenoid on the spill valve at idle, we heard the rattling a lot less.
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 Old 04-16-2012, 05:11 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
I just had another gentleman having trouble after many data logs of solid pressure. Just a slight drop in pressure on the low end, and other low blips here and there. New RV went in Friday night and his fuel pressure is AMAZING now. 2k psi like it's nothing.
I started this weekend getting dips for a cell or 2 into the 1600's around 3-3.5k after a spike, where as before fuel psi was always over 1750 psi. New 2150 psi RV on the way, should be installing it in 3 weeks.

For now I dropped my commanded fp to 1680. Also, this is with approx 10k miles with the internals in, with constant datalogs/wot.

Originally Posted by triphop631 View Post
1950
2050
2150
2250

Would 2050 be overkill?

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The 2150psi valve was recommended as the best one.
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 Old 04-16-2012, 05:19 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
I just had another gentleman having trouble after many data logs of solid pressure. Just a slight drop in pressure on the low end, and other low blips here and there. New RV went in Friday night and his fuel pressure is AMAZING now. 2k psi like it's nothing.
I can't wait.

Could you possibly post 2 datalogs of his showing the before/after?
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Originally Posted by G26 View Post
I can't wait.
Why are you waiting 3 weeks to install?

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 Old 04-16-2012, 05:49 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by triphop631 View Post
Why are you waiting 3 weeks to install?

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Install day, doing seals/rv/tigs with a couple guys.

Originally Posted by crazyp View Post
Remember guys, quick RV check is with the car off fuel pressure should be 900 psi or higher. If its 100 or lower its the RV
It should be 900psi + with the car having been just driven, and then shut off.
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 Old 04-16-2012, 05:57 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Matthew Myers View Post
Was there any rattling at all? Mine has a REALLY LOUD rattle. Could be coming from underneath fuel pump, but definitely coming from that general area.

Also when we unplugged the solenoid on the spill valve at idle, we heard the rattling a lot less.
Friend of mine had his relief valve go out on him, he also had a rattle with idle fp around 150-250psi.

This was with 75k miles with the oem fuel pump/rv in at oem psi. He had the autotechs in for a week, and after racing someone, the rv went completely bad.
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 Old 04-16-2012, 06:00 AM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by G26

Friend of mine had his relief valve go out on him, he also had a rattle with idle fp around 150-250psi.

This was with 75k miles with the oem fuel pump/rv in at oem psi. He had the autotechs in for a week, and after racing someone, the rv went completely bad.
My car only has 47k miles on it. But yes. I'm almost certain that its the rv
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 Old 04-16-2012, 06:04 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Matthew Myers View Post
My car only has 47k miles on it. But yes. I'm almost certain that its the rv
My car only has 16k on it, 10k with the autotechs and as I said, I am starting to get dips after spikes in fp.
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 Old 04-16-2012, 01:13 PM   #62
 
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Yeah I'm thinking about getting a new RV myself. I swapped mine with another local member's stock RV, who was holding pressure fine on his, but I still had a drop in mine.

My ap reads only 50psi when the engine is off and has been sitting for awhile. After I immediately shutoff my engine though, it'll slowly climb to 1600ish and then slowly drop all the way down to 50.

Maybe I just need a better one. I might try that next.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 07:25 PM   #63
 
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Did my RV today and my pressure is holding strong. No dips while WOT.

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Originally Posted by frodaddyweez View Post
Yeah I'm thinking about getting a new RV myself. I swapped mine with another local member's stock RV, who was holding pressure fine on his, but I still had a drop in mine.

My ap reads only 50psi when the engine is off and has been sitting for awhile. After I immediately shutoff my engine though, it'll slowly climb to 1600ish and then slowly drop all the way down to 50.

Maybe I just need a better one. I might try that next.
FP will go down after it sat for a while. With the car fully hot and off, it should reach 1800+ psi in a few minutes. It will eventually start going back down to 50-60 once everything cools off. If it only gets to 1600psi with everything FULLY hot, then it sounds like it may be the RV. Did your friends good RV not help?
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 Old 04-30-2012, 10:47 AM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by event View Post
FP will go down after it sat for a while. With the car fully hot and off, it should reach 1800+ psi in a few minutes. It will eventually start going back down to 50-60 once everything cools off. If it only gets to 1600psi with everything FULLY hot, then it sounds like it may be the RV. Did your friends good RV not help?

Well I didn't see where it would stop building pressure right after I shut off my car. I just stopped monitoring it after I saw it climbing over 1600. I thought the 50-60psi was a problem but the guy I switched RVs with also gets 50-60psi too when Coles down and off. So I guess that's normal.

On Thursday he hooked me up in some autotech internals so we swapped the kmds for those. While trying to remove the kmds, the plunger was seized in the 18mm assembly that the spring and internals install around. It eventually came out but only after it broke. Our guess was that I overtorqued it when I installed it. I'm still trying to let it breakin and haven't driven it much. I'm not getting my hopes up but ill try it out over one of these next few days.
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 Old 05-01-2012, 04:50 PM   #66
 
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Update everyone, after 2 and 1/2 weeks of not driving my car, I started up my car today to check the battery without connecting the accessport. Started up, no rattle whatsoever it seemed, revved for a split second up to about 2500 rpms and as the rpms started dipping down to idle, I noticed that the engine started to stall out and die due to the lack of fuel being provided for combustion (as if I was out of gas)... the pressure it's getting right now it seems is virtually worthless. @phate says that the relief valve is, can you say, fucking destroyed. Already ordered the new rail valve upgrade to replace it from protege garage, who by the way better get there shit together and give me a tracking number time now!
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 Old 05-06-2012, 08:49 AM   #67
 
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Edit, installed the 2150 rv and now everytime fuel pressure hits above 2074psi I get immediate fuel cut. Sensor only reads 2074, anything more than that and you'll get fuel cut everytime. Feels like hitting a brick wall. Not sure if protege garage will allow me to swap it out for the 1950 psi one since I've already started using the 2150 valve. I've been asking around to see if there is a way around the fuel cut, but no one has responded as of yet.
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 Old 05-06-2012, 09:31 AM   #68
 
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My fuel psi issues at wot are gone now. Finally. The autotechs are working brilliantly. Apparently the seized plunger, in the kmds, was causing my problem. We ended up breaking it while trying to remove it. So much for reselling it.

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 Old 05-07-2012, 08:23 AM   #69
 
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I am having some issues and maybe you guys can help me out.

I swapped out my RV and the pressure seems to be good, but every now and then I am having cold start issues. if I don't let the pump prime before starting it sometimes takes 2 turns for it to turn over. Could this be caused by the ITFP?

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 Old 05-08-2012, 10:19 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Matthew Myers View Post
Edit, installed the 2150 rv and now everytime fuel pressure hits above 2074psi I get immediate fuel cut. Sensor only reads 2074, anything more than that and you'll get fuel cut everytime. Feels like hitting a brick wall. Not sure if protege garage will allow me to swap it out for the 1950 psi one since I've already started using the 2150 valve. I've been asking around to see if there is a way around the fuel cut, but no one has responded as of yet.
You do not need to swap out valve, you need to tune your fuel pressure. If you are getting cut, you are getting way over 2074. Are you requesting over 2070? That is when the real problems start.

Edit to add: Just saw your other thread.
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 Old 05-09-2012, 07:15 AM   #71
 
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Originally Posted by Erich

You do not need to swap out valve, you need to tune your fuel pressure. If you are getting cut, you are getting way over 2074. Are you requesting over 2070? That is when the real problems start.

Edit to add: Just saw your other thread.
I'm only targeting 1750psi, but with the rv and Autotech combined, I'm hitting above fuel pressure sensor level.
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Some other interesting observations I've made since I've had plenty of fuel psi now:

I used to get the CELs p0101 and p0245 very frequently but not since I put the new internals in.

I would experience what felt like spark blowout a lot while going wot and quite a bit of afterfires when shifting but not anymore.
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