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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 10-11-2011, 09:42 PM   #41
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so lets look at what the actual pump assembly looks like and take it apart:

c-clip retainer for assembly top



remove and lift the top off



Venturi feed line on outside of bucket




venturi inlet in bottom of bucket




pry out on the 3 pump housing clips to remove from the bucket



pump housing removed from bucket



actual pump removed from housing



housing where pump outlet o-ring seats



Regulator location in the pump housing



regulator is held in the pump housing with double o-rings. Just pry out with a flat blade screwdriver.



pump and filter



pump bottom



pump top



filter






That's about it.

I think to try and used the upgraded MZ3 pump would require wiring in the different connector and using the MZ3 filter if possible. I haven't seen any pics of that filter but the bottom of our pump appears to be totally different than the MZ3 pump. thanks Mazda! don't make anything easy lol
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 Old 10-12-2011, 04:29 AM   #42
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how is the regulator held in there?
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 Old 10-12-2011, 07:53 AM   #43
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your wish...my command...

post 41 updated with more pics of regulator and filter.
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 Old 10-12-2011, 11:11 AM   #44
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Merged pics from post 41 into OP.
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 Old 10-12-2011, 11:20 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
16 Gauge Air Nibbler

not that expensive
ok for anyone thinking about doing the access cover mod...you WILL WANT TO BUY THIS TOOL

for 30 bones it is a no brainer...there really isn't an easy way to cut out the floor pan with the tank in place...can jig saw or saws all, tank is too close. Only other tool that would work is a cutoff wheel and you will more than likely mess up your interior unless you remove it all...lol

time it takes to remove the interior is worth 30 bucks and the nibbler will leave a much cleaner edge

Thanks @Tomas for the post
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 Old 10-12-2011, 11:28 AM   #46

 
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i used a dremel on mine. it was nervewrecking, and a mess. I too recommend the nibbler.

looks great dano!
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 Old 10-12-2011, 11:31 AM   #47
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I can't express enough how easy the nibbler was...literally 30 minutes in I was done with the rough opening...including drilling out the welds on the brace.

now if only removing the cap on the pump assembly were as easy
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 Old 10-12-2011, 11:31 AM   #48
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jesus 17.5 SCFM @ 90 psi?!?! most shop compressor would have problems running this haha
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 Old 10-12-2011, 11:34 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
jesus 17.5 SCFM @ 90 psi?!?! most shop compressor would have problems running this haha
meh I have a pancake compressor and it ran it fine. you only use it in short bursts...it chews thru the pan like a hot knife thru butta!
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 Old 05-30-2012, 05:30 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
next use a scribe or small flat blade screwdriver to pry up the retainer on the fuel line.

Sorry to bring an older thread back to life, but I just replaced the in tank pump today. I wanted to bring to everyone's attention that I was determined to not break the retainer clip. After close inspection and a few attempts to pry the clip out, I found out that I was over thinking the problem at hand...hahhahah, I do this on many occasions.

Are you ready for how easy it is to release the clip?

Simply push down on the center of the white retainer and the line slides right off. No screwdrivers, no metal picks, only my thumbnail was needed to release the line. The retainer does not need to be separated from the fitting.

Hope this helps people out on future installs.
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 Old 05-30-2012, 05:35 PM   #51
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Hahahh. Thanks Scott. I too over think things on an almost hourly basis.



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 Old 06-01-2012, 06:04 AM   #52

 
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awww sorry guys, had i noticed this thread, i could have mentioned the same thing.

push down on the white bar and the line pulls right off.
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 Old 06-01-2012, 06:06 AM   #53
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LOL, broke mine way back when, as well.

The soft clutch line from the reservoir to the master cylinder has the same type of connection.
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 Old 06-17-2012, 08:37 AM   #54
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Hey @Dano,

Where did you get the SST for the pump housing? and how much did that run you? I guess there is no other way to get that cap off then using the SST?
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 Old 06-17-2012, 08:52 AM   #55
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I borrowed Dustin's and I doubt very seriously you could get it off without the SST or without making your own SST. An extremely phucked up design...but Mazda just loves making up SSTs

Dustin's SST made its way around the entire US so I am sure he will let you borrow it....hell he may not even have it and a MSFer 1 state away may have it now and could get it to you in a day.

I def recommend using an air nibbler to open the floor pan up

edit: on making an SST...all you need to do is get a grip on the ring and with the pan opened up you might be able to fab up and oil filter wrench type of SST out of an old serp belt or any belt really. The "ears" of the SST do nothing more than grip the ridges in the cap.

something to thread the belt through with a 1/2 ratchet opening and use a 6" extension and torque it lose...IDK

lol with all the shit I have seen you fab up it should be easy
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 Old 06-17-2012, 09:14 AM   #56
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I was actually thinking about using a standard pipe wrench or one with a chain linked end. Don't think the chain end option will be so good though. Probably slip.
I'll open up the hole first and then see what happens. If it looks like I am gonna fuck it up with the pipe wrench I'll just borrow / get the SST from someone.
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 Old 06-17-2012, 09:40 AM   #57
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yeah but I think you need something that will leaver while applying force perpendicular to the retainer ring and it might need more of a standoff...I don't think I am wording this right so here lemee put a Dustin MSPaint drawing.



Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
Sorry to bring an older thread back to life, but I just replaced the in tank pump today. I wanted to bring to everyone's attention that I was determined to not break the retainer clip. After close inspection and a few attempts to pry the clip out, I found out that I was over thinking the problem at hand...hahhahah, I do this on many occasions.

Are you ready for how easy it is to release the clip?

Simply push down on the center of the white retainer and the line slides right off. No screwdrivers, no metal picks, only my thumbnail was needed to release the line. The retainer does not need to be separated from the fitting.

Hope this helps people out on future installs.
OP updated with this new valuable info
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Last edited by Dano; 06-17-2012 at 09:40 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 06-18-2012, 05:13 AM   #58

 
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i used a BFFS and BFH.

(big flathead and big hammer).

those little tabs may or may not break that hold it on. mine didnt break. they arent strong enough to keep it from unscrewing anyways, so if they do break, who cares?
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 Old 08-05-2012, 10:08 AM   #59
 
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So I just swapped my sensor on my pump and was following this guide until everything was different. My white clip was actually a green clip that just pulls up real easy. Also, the SST is no longer needed as there is nothing to unscrew. You just undo some small screws that hold in a black bracket and pull up on the pump with your fingers. Is this a 2012 thing or a genpu thing?

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 Old 08-05-2012, 10:35 AM   #60
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must be a new development...glad they moved away from that BS retainer system.
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 Old 08-05-2012, 12:17 PM   #61
 
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Here ya go http://www.streetunit.com/In_Tank_Fu..._p/su42001.htm

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 Old 08-05-2012, 07:31 PM   #62
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^ Yeah well, a new lid is $32. That's cheaper than renting the tool.

Changed pumps today. Dremeled the lid to break it off.

BTW. The housing of the pump is actually a fuel filter. Not sure if this was mentioned before.
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 Old 08-06-2012, 11:29 AM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
^ Yeah well, a new lid is $32. That's cheaper than renting the tool.

Changed pumps today. Dremeled the lid to break it off.

BTW. The housing of the pump is actually a fuel filter. Not sure if this was mentioned before.
True but if you had a few guys doing itfps at once would also be cheaper than everyone buying a lid each.

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 Old 07-11-2014, 01:28 PM   #64
 
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So newbie question. What made u certain it was your itfp that went bad. I'm not running anything crazy in terms of mods and have no access port. I checked my fuel pressure with a scan tool and it stays at 420 psi than slowly tapers off. I can watch it build pressure a couple of times but eventually it stops. Any suggestions
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 Old 10-16-2017, 07:55 PM   #65
 
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Sorry to dig up an old thread but all @Dano; pics disappeared. I am just not getting which clip and how to hold down to get the ring to break loose.
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