Meth noob

[skiptowncat]

I was considering a fmic but have decided to run meth with my su tmic, I have 60k on my car do I'm thinking it will help clean the valves as well as give more power.
I have a few questions i could do with help answering, I have looked over a few threads bit some of them a quite old.

1) there are 2 types on the DO website, I will be running a 3 bar sensor so I'll have to buy the boost controlled delivery method?

2) Should I take the boost feed from the small hose on the recirc valve?

3) whet is the best place to mount the tank and pump on a gen1 3?

4) do I just start with the do3 nozzle and keep advancing timing until I see KR again? I'll be running a 70/30 mix so at what point will I need to use a larger nozzle?

[chimmike]

Do battery relocation mod, IMO, and get 3quart tank.

d03 nozzle will be fine, and run 12-14* timing if you can, but definitely monitor for knock.

I have the basic DO kit with boost-sensing switch, but mine only kicks on after 16psi. with the k04, you can set it to kick on above 10psi if you want.

[Dmurray06]

1.No
2.Yes or make a vac block
3.Where a CAI would go, or truck or washer tank.
4. I'd start with DO5, under the supervision of a tuner of course.

[chimmike]

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 1.No 2.Yes or make a vac block 3.Where a CAI would go, or truck or washer tank. 4. I'd start with DO5, under the supervision of a tuner of course.

d05 is a lot of methanol for a k04.

d03 is plenty. I ran d03 on BT at 24psi and it was plenty for throwing more timing in.

[adlpb]

Just my opinion (and that of a few others in this forum).

Spend a few extra $ and go with SnowPerformance. I had a pretty bad experience with DO parts on 100%methanol.

[skiptowncat]

Originally Posted by adlpb Just my opinion (and that of a few others in this forum). Spend a few extra $ and go with SnowPerformance. I had a pretty bad experience with DO parts on 100%methanol.

Care to elaborate?

I'll also be taking my boost gauge of that pipe on the recirc valve, will there be a problem doin both?

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by skiptowncat Care to elaborate?

Sure.

DO requires you to drill your own hole into the tank. The fittings are plastic/rubber and made of very poor quality. I tried everything to stop the leaks. Tightening, loosening. I even covered the shit out of it with E6000 Goop (which is meth resistant) and it still leaked on me. Purchased Snow's tank and fixed everything. This is because the thanks they sell come with a threaded hole for the fittings that go to the line. They even provide some of the same E6000 sealant for reinforcement.

Also, the check valve got stuck numerous times. This means that your controller is telling you that meth is going into the intake, the pump is running, but in reality no fluids are flowing past it. The placement of DO's check valve is post-pump, pre-nozzle. I had it get stuck on me about 3-4 times. Only way to realize this is happening is if you monitor your BAT. Which is very unsafe if you don't monitor 100% of the time. Snow advises to place the check valve post-tank, pre-pump. Installed Snow's check valve and I never had this problem again.

Lastly, DO's placement of the nozzle is pretty much useless. They tell you to drill into your cold pipe using a 1/8npt tap. Which would work on an OEM TMIC. But if you have an aftermarket FMIC (I had the cp-e), the aluminum metal was way too thin to have any threading. So the nozzle holder came off. Snow sells an aluminum bung with 1/8npt threading which you weld into your cold pipe. This will reduce any chances of leaking, and hold in your nozzle at high levels of boost. I would not suggest anyone to use DO's tap to use in the silicone hoses. At 20psi, it's just prone to leaking.

So that was my experience. 3 months of messing around with DO had me frustrated. I replaced all the DO parts with Snow, minus the pump and controller. The difference in quality was night and day.

[skiptowncat]

Originally Posted by adlpb Sure..... .

Now my head is fried with more choices, just buy the boost controlled one?

[Haltech]

Or use an inside the pipe nozzle instead.

I know they have had probs with their check valves through the years. Ive had both the snow kits and do kits in many different cars and the snow kits have improved quite a bit in the last few years.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by skiptowncat Now my head is fried with more choices, just buy the boost controlled one?

If I could do it all over again, I would go with the Snow Performance Stage 2 kit that taps into your MAF controller.

I've also heard a few others talk about Aquamist, which has an injector-type system as opposed to a nozzle. But I am not sure on what the price range of that is.

[Sid3wayS]

You can buy or upgrade to a 3 bar progressive controler from do, that is what I did.

[jack_hammer]

if you want protection from spraying when you don't want to, you'll have to go with aquamist or cooling mist. aquamist even has one system designed for direct injection. but you're looking at $650-$850 for those guys.

of course, it's cheaper than a new engine b/c you got hydrolocked...

[skiptowncat]

Originally Posted by broncojd78 if you want protection from spraying when you don't want to, you'll have to go with aquamist or cooling mist. aquamist even has one system designed for direct injection. but you're looking at $650-$850 for those guys. of course, it's cheaper than a new engine b/c you got hydrolocked...

Hydrolock doesn't appeal to me. Is that really likely to happen?

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by skiptowncat Hydrolock doesn't appeal to me. Is that really likely to happen?

As long as you wire everything correctly, no. There's only 2 cases on this forum and I believe one of them was due to wiring. It's not something common.

[dMuze]

correct me if i am mistaken...but if you dont disconnect the pump fuse while doing a boost leak test...there will also be a chance of hydrolocking the motor once you start the car?

[jack_hammer]

It's not common, but possible. for me, the risk/reward it's not worth it to go without.

Option 1) cheap out, save a couple hundred bucks

Option 2) spend a couple hundred extra, get a baller setup, have no issues.

Sent from my LG-MS690 using Tapatalk 2

[rfinkle2]

This thread hyperlink is not to try to sway you away from getting meth, but I would solder your map / maf wire connection whichever signal you decide to choose.

Adlpb nailed a ton of common issues with the DO kit, and imo, you will leak the same amount of meth that you would spend if you go a little more expensive (i.e. snow).

Snow's forum is also very active, as are their customer service reps.

I would definitely spray a D05 and 100% meth.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1052911

[KILLER_VIZ]

AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kits - Water-Meth Injection Systems for Turbo/Super - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics

http://www.aemelectronics.com/parts.php

Has anyone looked at this set up yet? Just curious if any of you have experience or heard of it.

[SLOWHATCH]

Originally Posted by KILLER_VIZ AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kits - Water-Meth Injection Systems for Turbo/Super - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics Has anyone looked at this set up yet? Just curious if any of you have experience or heard of it.

I considered this kit (AEM) before going with D.O but just like with most other kits on the market there are a few complaints. Mainly about the controller crapping out on the AEM kit. It does have some good features though.

[skiptowncat]

Some valuable info here, thanks for the advice. It took me a week to choose meth over a fmic, god knows how long it'll take to choose which kit to go for!! meditate on this I will.

[Sid3wayS]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 This thread hyperlink is not to try to sway you away from getting meth, but I would solder your map / maf wire connection whichever signal you decide to choose. Adlpb nailed a ton of common issues with the DO kit, and imo, you will leak the same amount of meth that you would spend if you go a little more expensive (i.e. snow). Snow's forum is also very active, as are their customer service reps. I would definitely spray a D05 and 100% meth. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1052911

So your saying to cut the map sensor wire at the ecu instead of tapping it and solder all 3 leeds together? Is this what you did? I originaly thought of doing this since I hate all connectors but thought I found some thing somewhere saying this could have a negative affect on the signal input.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Sid3wayS So your saying to cut the map sensor wire at the ecu instead of tapping it and solder all 3 leeds together? Is this what you did? I originaly thought of doing this since I hate all connectors but thought I found some thing somewhere saying this could have a negative affect on the signal input.

I originally had the tap installed that comes with the DO kit. Per Dj's recommendation, I plan on soldering the signal wire that sends the map signal to the controller right @ the same point it was tapped using the supplied connector.

My meth kit has been off for a bit while I convert to stainless lines and an fittings, but when I do reactivate it, I plan on doing the above.

[Sid3wayS]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 I originally had the tap installed that comes with the DO kit. Per Dj's recommendation, I plan on soldering the signal wire that sends the map signal to the controller right @ the same point it was tapped using the supplied connector. My meth kit has been off for a bit while I convert to stainless lines and an fittings, but when I do reactivate it, I plan on doing the above.

Ohhhhh so not cutting anything just pulling the sheath back and fusing it at the spot where it was tapped.

[atvfreek]

I would personally go the the DVC30 over the 2.5bar controller. Then you just use a boost source and don't have to splice into the map sensor wire. Another thing you have to consider, is that the 2.5bar controller won't be accurate if you go to a 3bar map sensor.

[Sid3wayS]

I got a 3 bar progressive controler off of devils own website.