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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 08-21-2011, 04:51 PM   #1
 
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Default CUSTOM WATER TO AIR IC, RUNNING 8-12 ABOVE AMBIENT.

Not sure if Im in the right section, but just thought id share my first thread, with the process of it, i have everything custom Made for my old mazda 3, but now i have to convert it to a mazdaspeed 3 setup which is minor fabrication.

First things first, i will need to relocate the battery to the trunk i will show pics, and prices on how to do so for a clean and cost effective way. I will update the progress here so you guys can see how its going, i ordered lots of parts that are not on the car yet, so you may see a little new things here and there.

Any questions, or comments, or tips are welcome! Hoping by just bolting on to gain a good 30whp from it, then a little more after tune, i have a spot made for ice to sit in to make air cooler, before they melt and drop back into IC tank. Thanks for reading!


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 Old 08-22-2011, 11:59 AM   #2
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Its kinda hard to comment or give you any tips without seeing it. Good luck on it, I am building one for my car.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 08-22-2011, 12:20 PM   #3
 
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no problem i will have pics of the ic tonight and the piping, i just need to cut MAF location off and make str8 piece of pipe and extend to the neccesary points, (TB, and Turbo) already have secondary water pump on car and need to mount the heat exchanger
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 Old 08-22-2011, 04:30 PM   #4
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Nice, I just got my heat exchanger mounted and man was it a bitch lol. I am waiting on some fittings and then the rest will go on.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 08-22-2011, 04:35 PM   #5
 
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What fittings are you using? All i need was some plugs to drain the heat exchanger, and the threaded barb fittings to recirculate the IC. Also how are you doing your secondary water pump.?
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 Old 08-22-2011, 04:39 PM   #6
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I am using the Bosch Cobra/Lightning pump. My heat exchanger previously lived as a nascar oil cooler, its at least as big as the radiator... maybe bigger. It has two an-12 fittings that I am adapting to 3/4" barb. I have some new hose on order and I need a T for a temp sensor and a fill tank.

The fill tank I am having custom made, I just need to draw it out and send it in. I think I am going to put it behind the drivers side headlight.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 08-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #7
 
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i was going to use that pump, but then decided a $30.00 boat water pump would do the trick if it ever was to take a poop on me, works really good. I have mine located behind the headlight as well, not in the way of anything. WOW, that's a huge heat exchanger mine is not even close to that big, that will be holding alot of water, but also cooling alot cooler as well, since it has longer passes, i have a fitting for my water temp at the end pass back into IC to see what difference will be. Mine sit's in the front just like a IC just longer then most.
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 Old 08-22-2011, 04:52 PM   #8
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Yeah you have a normal heat exchanger, I had to go the hard route lol.

I think I am also going to put the sensor right before the IC, I only really care how much higher over ambient its running. Seeing the temp on the output side would be cool and I might add a fitting in later, but right now I just wanna get it up and running.
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P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG


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 Old 08-22-2011, 04:55 PM   #9
 
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i hear ya on that! Well im off work, going to the gym then to grab some of my components of the water to air, and ill post some pics of what i got!
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 Old 08-22-2011, 09:01 PM   #10
 
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heat exchanger on my old mazda, swapping it over



here is the fill and drain fittings:





Now on this one i will delete the MAF on the pipe, and obvi change bov to my RKM one i have coming in.



FIller neck

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 Old 08-23-2011, 11:33 PM   #11

 
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I had just purchased an Air/Water intercooler and heat exchanger only to have two piece of shit piles of metal show up, so I had to send them back. Just got my fundage back today, so I've started eyeballing the CXRacing stuff.

I've already got two spools of 0Ga cable for the battery relocation, so I'm definitely looking forward to seeing how you do this.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 05:44 AM   #12
 
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O wow two spools of 0 guage, all I do is go to.autozone buy their duralast gold jumper cables (4guage) cut the ends off, and split it and then buy a battery try and tie down and terminals all for under 50 bux, I will be doing battery this weekend, then off to fabricator to get pipes perfect.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 10:13 AM   #13

 
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Yeah well I figure if I'm going to do it, I might as well overbuild/plan for expansion.
My work paid for it anyway, so might as well.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 11:48 AM   #14
 
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shoot, id be interested in some 0 guage if you got some to sell.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 01:08 PM   #15

 
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Pretty sure I won't need all 100 foot of it (50 red, 50 black), but I also don't want to part with any until after I've done the relocation. Where are you located?
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 Old 08-24-2011, 04:48 PM   #16
 
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ILLinois, im going to do my relocate this weekend, i would like just have some for other projects.

My set-up has circuit breaker attached to it as well, which pops if anything tryies to short, you can also flip it to keep car from turning on.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 06:22 PM   #17

 
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Guess I won't be assisting then, lol.

I'll keep you in mind when all is said and done and I've done my own battery relocate.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 08:26 PM   #18
 
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no prob, im excited im going to try and do battery friday so i can go do pipes saturday, then install all sunday.
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 Old 08-24-2011, 11:39 PM   #19

 
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Don't forget pictures.
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 Old 08-25-2011, 12:39 AM   #20
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The best cable is actually welding cable, I used it when I used to do car audio competitions. It generally has a very high strand count, full copper, and its very flexable. You can pick up used welding cable on ebay for next to nothing, just make sure it isnt damaged.
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 Old 08-25-2011, 12:54 AM   #21
 
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Wow that looks really nice great idea

O and really the best cable to move the battery to the back is a nice set of beefy jumper cables it thicker strands of wire and us made to handle the power.
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 Old 08-25-2011, 12:57 AM   #22

 
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My dad said the same thing about welding cable, but the stuff I have already is pretty decent. It's pretty much thousands of copper filaments wound into cables wound into larger cables. Shit looks real beefy.
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 Old 08-25-2011, 01:21 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by unr8ted View Post
Wow that looks really nice great idea

O and really the best cable to move the battery to the back is a nice set of beefy jumper cables it thicker strands of wire and us made to handle the power.
Welding cable can handle welding, jumper cables would melt in half. Thicker strands doesnt make it better for long distances and high loads.

Having said that, 4awg jumper cables should work fine for 99% of us.
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 Old 08-25-2011, 08:43 AM   #24
 
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O yea i use jumper cables on my last cars,and always worked fine!
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 Old 08-25-2011, 09:45 AM   #25
 
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TOMMAROW THAT BATTERY IS GOING TO THE TRUNK!!!!!!!!, stay tunned to see where the ecu goes ahhaha its a great idea but you guys will LOL
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 Old 08-25-2011, 10:04 AM   #26

 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Welding cable can handle welding, jumper cables would melt in half. Thicker strands doesnt make it better for long distances and high loads.

Having said that, 4awg jumper cables should work fine for 99% of us.
Power distribution is all about surface area, the smaller the wire in a set cable size, the more surface area you have to transfer power. It's kind of funny, but fluid dynamics actually plays a role, as electricity tends to behave like fluids, what with the path of least resistance and whatnot.
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 Old 08-26-2011, 01:06 PM   #27
 
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J-Liss, why are you relocating the battery to the trunk??? The MS3 has enough room without going through all of that. At most a small battery and ECU relocate... Need more pics.
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 Old 08-26-2011, 01:19 PM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by bnoon View Post
J-Liss, why are you relocating the battery to the trunk??? The MS3 has enough room without going through all of that. At most a small battery and ECU relocate... Need more pics.


No bnoon, i dont know how you can even come to that conclusion with the picture of the intercooler and this setup, it is and completely in the way, and no way around it but to relocate it. Most water to air setups ive seen just from searching in here have relocated it as well, look at the thickness of the the ic and the pipe setup. This IC is going exactly where the battery sits.

When i think about it, you do know that the first pic is the heat exchanger and NOT THE INTERCOOLER correct?

The ic is the box with the pipes attached to it.....i can see how now you were confused if this was your thinking.

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 Old 08-26-2011, 03:30 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by J-Liss View Post
No bnoon, i dont know how you can even come to that conclusion with the picture of the intercooler and this setup, it is and completely in the way, and no way around it but to relocate it. Most water to air setups ive seen just from searching in here have relocated it as well, look at the thickness of the the ic and the pipe setup. This IC is going exactly where the battery sits.

When i think about it, you do know that the first pic is the heat exchanger and NOT THE INTERCOOLER correct?

The ic is the box with the pipes attached to it.....i can see how now you were confused if this was your thinking.
I was talking more about "why would you choose a core like that and force yourself to relocate the battery".

My first setup here Air/Water intercooler installed (almost)

A more recent update thread here My air/water

I had two more renditions that didn't work out as well or as cheap as this setup and none of them required relocation. I've talked with many members here about air/water in their threads and my threads about fabrication issues/etc. Not sure how you missed any of those posts in your searches. The only other user that I've seen relocate their battery for air/water was IDRVSLO and his post is still a sticky in the turbo induction section.
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 Old 08-26-2011, 04:54 PM   #30
 
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Im sorry and im not ragging on your setup at all, but i do not like your set-up at all, i dont mind relocating my battery at all, and with a bigger tank that holds alot more water it will be easier to maintain cooler temps. I chose this core and location for a reason, down to it's size, psi compadability, Moving the battery to trunk maybe a big deal to you, but its a small thing to me. Not to mention It looks AWESOME in the engine bay for eye candy.


The first one isnt that bad, BUT this is a CUSTOM set-up to my liking and wants, not what others do, ive done countless hours of research on this, and spoke to a chemist teacher to see how i could get this to work best, and Cain did tons of research on his own part along with the shop till we came up with this, This has the angles and bends to the frame of the car to fit perfectly where i want it.

Not to mention with the battery gone and out the way it looks so much nicer and clean then everything just crammed togethor, i make things work the way i want them, and im not going to let a battery in the way change that.

you should really consider moving your water pump behind the headlight like im doing, looks so much cleaner, you want to see only the things neccesary.

Just stay tunned, sit back and watch me work

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 Old 08-26-2011, 04:59 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by J-Liss View Post
, and im not going to let a battery in the way change that.

Just stay tunned, sit back and watch me work
Personally, I think a battery in the trunk/hatch is "in the way" but that's just me
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 Old 08-26-2011, 05:26 PM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by sheldonross View Post
Personally, I think a battery in the trunk/hatch is "in the way" but that's just me


lol, i hear ya, but then Dont have it in the way, i could remove my spare and put it there but i want to keep a spare just in case, but i just tuck them off in the corner and they dont cause any issues.


The battery in the trunk is not for all that's for sure, but i want it there, engine bay is so much cleaner...here is a pic of the setup on my NA 3.






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 Old 08-27-2011, 08:10 AM   #33
 
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THAT ISH IS IN THE BACK!!!!!


pics to come, im off to performance shop in like 2 hrs see if the can weld some pipes son.
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 Old 08-28-2011, 09:42 PM   #34
 
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Here are some pics of the final Install dont worry about ecu sitting all out, its mounted down, i have a box i made for it, so it will be protected. Thursday im going to weld my aluminum pipes and friday should be done, and by sat the whole system should be wired in properly.

Enjoy.

This will be a red-top optima friday.



Mounting ECU to tranny mount.


all said and done, that red power wire will be tucked, and Loomed.


Also, might i suggest, i forgot to snag a pic of it, But you should add a Circuit breaker, onto the power line, i added one for the saftey of car and battery obvi. You have the ability to obvi break it yourself, (no power to car at all) and turn it off and on. ( good security measure)

here is a pic of what it looks like, i got the 100volt one though

http://www.iboats.com/mall/image/vie...100-7115_6.jpg



Also that COBB short ram will be a fujita f5 cold air, so it wont be in the way. I have Lots to install on this car.

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 Old 08-28-2011, 10:36 PM   #35

 
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Hmm, I was weary of mounting the ECU to anything grounded as the plastic itself is not grounded. I take it this isn't an issue and the ECU body itself is negative ground?
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 Old 08-28-2011, 11:11 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Hmm, I was weary of mounting the ECU to anything grounded as the plastic itself is not grounded. I take it this isn't an issue and the ECU body itself is negative ground?
Im not entirely sure if the ecu body is negative ground itself, i can say if it where to do anything at all, my circuit breaker would trip before it caused any damage....but so far no issues.
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 Old 08-28-2011, 11:42 PM   #37
 
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I wonder where that fujita is coming from...

lemme see this bitch in person
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 Old 08-28-2011, 11:46 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by JLee1469 View Post
I wonder where that fujita is coming from...

lemme see this bitch in person

YO, if your not busy tommarow around 630 lets do the swap tommarow, should be really easy since were just loosening from the inlet pipe!
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 Old 08-29-2011, 12:41 AM   #39

 
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Well, if the ECU was positive ground it would have cooked when you put the cables back on the battery. Just to be safe, I'll probably still isolate mine.
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 Old 08-29-2011, 05:05 AM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
Well, if the ECU was positive ground it would have cooked when you put the cables back on the battery. Just to be safe, I'll probably still isolate mine.


not a bad idea, im going to do the same with mine, that was just so it did not hang and get damaged.
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