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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 08-29-2011, 10:49 AM   #41
 
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Originally Posted by J-Liss View Post
YO, if your not busy tommarow around 630 lets do the swap tommarow, should be really easy since were just loosening from the inlet pipe!
Gotta take off bumper to reach bolt on lower bracket
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 Old 08-29-2011, 11:11 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by JLee1469 View Post
Gotta take off bumper to reach bolt on lower bracket
we should only have to take off splash shield to reach that bracket........
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 Old 08-29-2011, 03:30 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by J-Liss View Post
Im sorry and im not ragging on your setup at all, but i do not like your set-up at all, i dont mind relocating my battery at all, and with a bigger tank that holds alot more water it will be easier to maintain cooler temps. I chose this core and location for a reason, down to it's size, psi compadability, Moving the battery to trunk maybe a big deal to you, but its a small thing to me. Not to mention It looks AWESOME in the engine bay for eye candy.


The first one isnt that bad, BUT this is a CUSTOM set-up to my liking and wants, not what others do, ive done countless hours of research on this, and spoke to a chemist teacher to see how i could get this to work best, and Cain did tons of research on his own part along with the shop till we came up with this, This has the angles and bends to the frame of the car to fit perfectly where i want it.

Not to mention with the battery gone and out the way it looks so much nicer and clean then everything just crammed togethor, i make things work the way i want them, and im not going to let a battery in the way change that.

you should really consider moving your water pump behind the headlight like im doing, looks so much cleaner, you want to see only the things neccesary.

Just stay tunned, sit back and watch me work
Sorry, but I think mine is a cleaner install, for the piping anyway. Your piping just looks wrong and needlessly too long to me. Mine has the minimum length of 3" piping allowed by the space given and I had tons of 3d modeling done to prove it. The only thing shorter is custom core shapes.

The pump I agree with, it looks better if it's hidden, but I've had it down below the bumper in a previous install and it was actually getting dirtier down there, so I came back to this.

As for the amount of research done, you won't win me over there either. Everything in my system is sized appropriately for the upgrades installed and planned. Proven by the BAT logs and never bested by anyone here yet.
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 Old 08-29-2011, 04:46 PM   #44
 
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My IC was custom MADE completely from the core, mine was not just ordered complete, Im not sure if your pipes are actually shorter travel distance than mine, and if they are, that is not that big of a deal, IMO it seems your just worked with the space you had, and crammed your IC in there, and i can see causing you intake to be shoved against battery tray AND blocking any air flow it was receving from the cool air coming from the grill.


How much water can your IC hold at a time?

I do appreciate you putting "yet" at the end of your statement, because i intend to change that a friendly competition never hurt.

Not to mention you cant say your install is cleaner, when mine is not even on the vehicle yet....From my pic's before on my old water to air setup on my mazda 3, you can see how much cleaner it looks without the battery there. I dont know how my piping can Look wrong, if its made for this car, and not to mention my piping onto turbo is maybe 6" long with a 90 degree angle coupler and coupler to IC itself, i didnt need much piping in any instance at all.

I noticed you Powder coated everything, which is nice eye candy, but also serves as a insulation for heat which is taking away from the point of the cooling factor.


Was also reading on your HE location, i cant imagine your BAT's would be lower than mine, when i have one sitting in the lower grill.
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 Old 08-29-2011, 05:01 PM   #45
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Im not so sure that pipe length makes that much difference, I also dont think that a bare alum pipe has any measureable cooling effect verses anything else. When air is going through that pipe at 300mph, that stuff is kind of a joke.
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 Old 08-29-2011, 05:34 PM   #46
 
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it differentiates, torque really, but i could not see it really making a difference at all, although when you compare a short ram intake to a cold air, its not too much more added piping and the hp/tq numbers are greater and noticeable.


I agree about the piping be coated may not be a great difference but i want as efficient as possible, 1-5hp + if even that, or cooler pipes with cooler air travel means something to me, if it causes insulation, i wont do it, but just My opinion, again im not ragging on anyone here, and i hope bnoon isnt taking my posts as insulting.

I have one of your bnoon bolts on my car lol.
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 Old 08-29-2011, 07:07 PM   #47

 
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That insulation you don't want works both ways though; those pipes will get hot. Hell, my CP-E whale penis (TM) is hotter than fuck by the time I shut it down, and I had it ceramic coated.
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 Old 08-29-2011, 08:54 PM   #48
 
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if done correctly the pipes should not get that hot on my mazda 3 they stayed cool.
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 Old 08-30-2011, 11:10 AM   #49
 
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@J-Liss It's OK, we can agree to disagree on how things look. We can also disagree on how well things work. But for less than $500 invested, I gotz cooling skillz yo.
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 Old 08-30-2011, 03:32 PM   #50
 
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Nice im at 710, with the custom core and pipes and heat exchanger and water pump.

Im going to have the IC on the car without the cooling effect this friday so pics to come, ill do some logging right now with my FMIC on and then compare to the water to air working properly on satuday. should be pretty sweet guys!


Stay tunned!
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 Old 08-30-2011, 04:19 PM   #51

 
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Nice; I'll be ordering my air-water goodies this weekend most likely, and will have my new battery by then.

Planning stage to commence (again)!
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 Old 08-30-2011, 11:47 PM   #52
 
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What kind of setup are you going to be running?

Location of IC?

Heat exchanger...water pump. piping, etc?
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 Old 08-31-2011, 02:51 AM   #53

 
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I don't really want to say anything about placement until I've done the proper planning and determined that it will all work; that said, all CXRacing aluminum barring some goodies from Treadstone like a big blow through MAF and relocated BOV piping, with the possibility of meth injection just after the MAF.

The key adjective here will be "sleeper" though, should it lay out how I want.
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 Old 08-31-2011, 11:42 AM   #54
 
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Very nice, your set-up should look just like mine but with diffrent placement, i have meth going in after MAF, and BPV obvi before maf, and the fitting for meth is UNDER the pipe like when i had nitrous on my other 3, i would pop hood and NOBODY ever knew.
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 Old 08-31-2011, 02:32 PM   #55
 
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I like stealth!!! Can't wait to see it.
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 Old 08-31-2011, 02:45 PM   #56
 
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i want more pictures, hurry up!
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 Old 08-31-2011, 04:31 PM   #57
 
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LOL, im installing the cold air intake tonight, then im dropping it off @ performance autowerks so they can do WERK!

I should have it back thur night or friday for sho, ill post pics either day, then on saturday im going to install water pump and remove my FMIC system, and put heat exchanger in.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 09:24 AM   #58
 
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Alright guys, i ran into some trouble, i installed everything and all, and i let the car warm up fully and cruised around and whenever i punch it, the temp needle goes down and it goes to open loop mode, like a cold start, i let it idle warm again and i go punch on it, again, and again and the temp needle goes down and car goes back to cold start mode.....i will need to re-adjust water pump and slow down the flow, and this should correct the problem.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 10:43 AM   #59

 
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Wait, what temp needle? The engine temp needle? I hope you aren't using your engine coolant in the air/water kit...
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 Old 09-01-2011, 02:01 PM   #60
 
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LOL that was a joke to see who was following. Shop just sent me some teaser pics, LOOKIN GOOD!
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 Old 09-01-2011, 02:11 PM   #61

 
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You have a shop installing it? Wish I had that kind of money lol.
My Braille battery just showed up today; can't wait to tear into the engine bay and do some more planning.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 03:50 PM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
You have a shop installing it? Wish I had that kind of money lol.
My Braille battery just showed up today; can't wait to tear into the engine bay and do some more planning.


Well i dont know how/own a tig welder so a shop needed to do it, i provided the pipes and told them how i wanted them to do it, and so i dropped it off for them to do today, and prob tommarow.

This saturday you guys get to see how im going to protect my ecu...haha its so hilarious but it'll work and for anyone else who does what im doing wouldnt be a bad idea to copy me, but i hope to do a mild wire tuck on this car like i did on my mazda...that was clean as FUUUU. But ill see what i can do with this one, i may need to order another BLOX vacuume manifold to get rid of some of these vacume lines.

@Enki do you plan to relocate battery? I may just turn this thread into my build thread after this is all said and done.



BTW my avatar is really my hood i sprayed that on the inside of the hood.

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 Old 09-01-2011, 05:05 PM   #63

 
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I did plan on relocating the battery, but all said and done I really don't want to fuck around too much drilling holes in shit to run cables. We will see how I can make this Braille fit. If the way I do this works out well, I'll probably sell the design to someone like JBarone for mass production.

As a side note, the test slip said it tested at 13.09 volts and 757 cranking amps before shipping; I hope that's enough, but I really haven't had an issue with starting my car in the past. Usually only takes 1-2 seconds before it fires, even cold; considering there is a 100 amp fuse, and the starter probably takes only 80 of that it shouldn't be much of a problem.

Maybe I should put the battery in there and drive it around a bit to make sure, hah.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #64
 
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I got my car back man it looks awesome i LOVE IT


gets hot as FUCCCC without water connected!



Also why would you need to drill any holes anywhere, there is a 4" opening on the passenger side on the firewall.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 10:17 PM   #65

 
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A 4" opening ain't shit for two runs of 0 gauge, especially when sharing. Besides, I'd rather not have the cables come out next to the downpipe and run past the turbo; a couple of well placed and properly sealed holes in the firewall will do much more for me.

Also, depending on how the mock-up goes (possibly as soon as this weekend ) I may not even be doing the relocation to the back of the car.

Like I said, if I can do this right, it will be pretty fucking awesome and probably something to be duplicated.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 10:59 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
A 4" opening ain't shit for two runs of 0 gauge, especially when sharing. Besides, I'd rather not have the cables come out next to the downpipe and run past the turbo; a couple of well placed and properly sealed holes in the firewall will do much more for me.

Also, depending on how the mock-up goes (possibly as soon as this weekend ) I may not even be doing the relocation to the back of the car.

Like I said, if I can do this right, it will be pretty fucking awesome and probably something to be duplicated.

two runs of 0 guage will go through just fine....although im assuming you only running one for the battery and the other for a sound system because you dont need to run one for the negative. Also the power wire goes well behind the turbo and manifold behind the heat shield and along firewall. not even close to DP as well. Anything can be duplicated, bnoons can be duplicated, its all a matter of what you want to do. Here is a pic im going to post of the IC on the car with NO HE or water pump just IC hooked up, i will pretty up the pipes this weekend.
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 Old 09-01-2011, 11:26 PM   #67
 
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 Old 09-04-2011, 05:07 AM   #68
 
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INSTAll is 100% complete.....i had a 45 min drive home today, ambient temps were 70 degrees.....my temp DID NOT GO PASSED 81 degrees, EXCEPT WHEN I WAS AT A LIGHT IT WENT TO 94, as soon i started moving and kicked alittle boost in, IT WENT BACK DOWN TO 83-84-85. AS SOON AS I pulled in my driveway i hurry up and popped hood to feel IC....IT WAS SO COLD IT HAD CONDENSATION ON IT........thanks to @J-Lee for his minor support but support none the less in the install, hopefully he will upload the pics he took, and video!

Let me know what you guys wanna see? Im sure ull wanna see some logs.


45 min drive HOME and my IC is COLD, pipe coming off turbo IS COLD, and pipe to TB is cold, i knew my setup would be efficient but DAYUM! good old boat water pump, pushing 850 GPH

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 Old 09-04-2011, 10:05 AM   #69
 
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Sick josh. For comparison I drove the same drive in same conditions with a fmic and was cruising with temp at 102.







http://vid147.photobucket.com/albums...904_015114.mp4

Think that's ll of it

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

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 Old 09-04-2011, 10:45 AM   #70
 
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WOW are you serious dude!!! we both had around the same time drive home, and same temp, (we live near each other) WOOOOW MAN this is awesome im too happy ahahahahah
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 Old 09-06-2011, 03:20 PM   #71
 
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on a 65 degree day, my temps at a constant cruise was 71. This is without water wetter, so i expect better numbers with that.

Originally Posted by Enki View Post
A 4" opening ain't shit for two runs of 0 gauge, especially when sharing. Besides, I'd rather not have the cables come out next to the downpipe and run past the turbo; a couple of well placed and properly sealed holes in the firewall will do much more for me.

Also, depending on how the mock-up goes (possibly as soon as this weekend ) I may not even be doing the relocation to the back of the car.

Like I said, if I can do this right, it will be pretty fucking awesome and probably something to be duplicated.

how far you get bro?

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 Old 09-06-2011, 03:38 PM   #72

 
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Fully planned out, and almost done with the drilling until the fucking drill press broke. Chuck and bit spin freely by hand now.

Edit: My air/water shit will be here tomorrow, but I need to get the battery mount setup finished and ironed out before it can be mounted.
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 Old 09-06-2011, 08:39 PM   #73
 
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pics or lies
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 Old 09-06-2011, 09:42 PM   #74

 
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Pics of what? The broken drill press or the CXRacing A/W stuff due tomorrow?
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 Old 09-06-2011, 10:32 PM   #75
 
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followed this thread and have pretty much decided on going this route over fmic. i have been to several sites looking at them, and it looks like a way diff approach (which i like) to get the same result, lower bat's. if u don't mind me asking, what are the hp goals ur shooting for with using this?
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 Old 09-06-2011, 11:34 PM   #76

 
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I can't speak for OP, but I'm going to eventually target 500 @ the wheels, with a flat torque curve sitting right at or slightly above 300.
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 Old 09-06-2011, 11:39 PM   #77
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I would like 600hp/1200'lb, no lie.
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 Old 09-07-2011, 12:26 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
I would like 600hp/1200'lb, no lie.
mazdaspeed f250? lol I think I have seen some of your posts mentioning your lust for high torque, but you serious about those numbers?
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 Old 09-07-2011, 01:55 AM   #79
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Yeah pretty serious. I have alot of the parts needed already.
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 Old 09-07-2011, 07:48 AM   #80
 
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Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I can't speak for OP, but I'm going to eventually target 500 @ the wheels, with a flat torque curve sitting right at or slightly above 300.

Parts, and your plan out.


@2slow, i would love to hit 400ish hp and close to 500 trq, i got big things lined up, including e85, and meth...can you imagine, how cold the air my motor will be getting if i have water to air AND METH....sheeeeeeit.


@Enki those are good numbers to shoot for, if build the motor i want a little higher than that.


@06Speed6 .....may the force be with you, your looking at a straight drag car to be that, plus, you would need a serious water pump and IC if ur were looking to do water to air to support those numbers. the water pump would be easy to do, mine shoots 850 gallons per hour, and that's on mid low end. But hey if it can be dreamed it can be done!!

Originally Posted by tooslow10lol View Post
followed this thread and have pretty much decided on going this route over fmic. i have been to several sites looking at them, and it looks like a way diff approach (which i like) to get the same result, lower bat's. if u don't mind me asking, what are the hp goals ur shooting for with using this?


did you mean they went a way diff approach or i went a way diff approach?

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