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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 08-09-2012, 01:47 PM   #41
 
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Figured out lean code, diameter of intake tubing I used is larger than factory so there was unmonitored air. Currently I have switched to a K&N intake short ram instead and it has been running better even though power band seems less responsive than my original intake.
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 Old 08-30-2012, 09:05 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by shawn19 View Post
Sorry if this a stupid question but would a walboro 255 be enough fuel pump for full bolt-on through stage 2?
I see what your saying.. If the CDFP is having trouble keeping up, then your thinking its because the supply is dwindling? Perhaps the answer to that isnt about the feed rate to the CDFP as much as it is the amount of fuel the CDFP is taking in per cycle. In this case you wouldnt fix the high pressure problem without upgraded internals.
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 Old 09-06-2012, 03:37 PM   #43
 
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Default Fuel Pump Failing!

Went to get Dyno'd at Cobb last week. Running stg 2 with Auto Tech internals. Tuner said my FP failed while tuning. He tuned for my intake before the pump gave out so he built me a baseline map and said for me to put the stock internals back in and to investigate the Autotech ones for scoring or defects. I went home took the pump appart and found the Autotech internals ok with No sign of scoring or damage. While I had the pump out I investigated the housing and found a four-digit number on the high pressure line out of the pump. After research I found that the number which was 7215 was the manufacturing date of that pump and there was a service bulletin online from mazda stating that any pump manufactured before march 2007 should be replaced. When opening the pump with the 18mm socket to reinstall the OEM internals the stainless steel cylinder where the piston comes through was loose enough that I didnt have to place the pump in a vice to unscrew the stainless steel cylinder.Went ahead and put the stock internals back in.This time I took my torque wrench and tightened the 18mm stainless steel cylinder to about 35lb/ft, to ensure it would unscrew. Now running that base map, I keep throwing P2187 over and over again. Does this mean I need to purchase a brand new pump. I do have they Autotech internals cleaned and ready to install again. Did my pump fail on the dyno becuase the stainless steel cylinder started to back it self out, or did it fail because it was a faulty pump assembly from the factory( new internals were installed) Knowledgable people please help as I dont want to have to spend 400$ on a brand new pump if I dont have too. I want me car to run good again so I can get it back on the dyno for a protune.
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 Old 09-16-2012, 09:37 PM   #44
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Hey sorry if this has been covered but I searched and didn't find a definitive answer. I understand that ~400 is good for idle and ~1750+ is good for WOT. I'm good on both those counts. I was cruising on the highway today and noticed my FP dropped to 280 while using cruise control and coasting down a hill at about 75mph. Is this acceptable? I've got autotech internals.
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 Old 09-23-2012, 08:51 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by duappleganger View Post
Hey sorry if this has been covered but I searched and didn't find a definitive answer. I understand that ~400 is good for idle and ~1750+ is good for WOT. I'm good on both those counts. I was cruising on the highway today and noticed my FP dropped to 280 while using cruise control and coasting down a hill at about 75mph. Is this acceptable? I've got autotech internals.
I seldom use cruse control, but I have seen mine drop down to the 200s during engine breaking. Not sure if that is good for both of us, or bad for both of us.
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 Old 09-23-2012, 09:33 PM   #46
 
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Mine does the same. Of I can remember correctly, the desired pressure dropped that low too so it shouldn't be a problem. But I would ask someone else to confirm this.
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 Old 09-24-2012, 06:46 AM   #47
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During coast/ engine braking the ecu cuts fuel, there is no demand for fuel so the commanded pressure most likely drops- I have not paid attention to my pressure while coasting, but I would not worry about it.
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 Old 10-07-2012, 09:30 PM   #48
 
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So I noticed the OP jumps straight to the importance of the CDFP upgrade, so is the in-tank not a limiting factor for bolt on performance? I'm guessing because it only has to flow into the single point to the high pressure pump vs. maintaining pressure to a rail and four injectors?
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 Old 10-08-2012, 09:13 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by agentgordon27 View Post
So I noticed the OP jumps straight to the importance of the CDFP upgrade, so is the in-tank not a limiting factor for bolt on performance? I'm guessing because it only has to flow into the single point to the high pressure pump vs. maintaining pressure to a rail and four injectors?
In tank flows plenty until you get into an extra injectors(s) situation. The stock(non upgradeable) injectors will hold you back before a properly working ITP, and this occurs a bit past the 400 whp mark(on ms3's)
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 Old 10-11-2012, 07:28 AM   #50
 
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Got a K&N SRI on '11 speed3 and was planning for a FMIC. Was rather disturbed to find out that fp upgrade should be done FIRST as talked here. I am currently, however, logging 1650-1750 psi consistently on WOT, peaking at 1800-ish. Should I still prioritize fp upgrade if I were to do AP stage 1 for now?
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 Old 10-11-2012, 07:48 AM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by chimneybear View Post
Got a K&N SRI on '11 speed3 and was planning for a FMIC. Was rather disturbed to find out that fp upgrade should be done FIRST as talked here. I am currently, however, logging 1650-1750 psi consistently on WOT, peaking at 1800-ish. Should I still prioritize fp upgrade if I were to do AP stage 1 for now?
the genpus are known kill a fp with anything more than an intake.
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 Old 10-12-2012, 01:19 PM   #52
 
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Originally Posted by themytb View Post
During coast/ engine braking the ecu cuts fuel, there is no demand for fuel so the commanded pressure most likely drops- I have not paid attention to my pressure while coasting, but I would not worry about it.
Now, do you mean driving at a constant speed/rpm, when you say coast? If not, Is there an acceptable FP pressure while at "cruising speed"? Noticed a pressure drop while at crusing speed with cruise control on, and i was curious. I have AT internals installed.
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 Old 10-12-2012, 01:28 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by MSpeed3013 View Post
Now, do you mean driving at a constant speed/rpm, when you say coast? If not, Is there an acceptable FP pressure while at "cruising speed"? Noticed a pressure drop while at crusing speed with cruise control on, and i was curious. I have AT internals installed.
light load fp (.3-.5 calc load) will fall somewhere between 1100-1300psi
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 Old 11-19-2012, 12:11 PM   #54
 
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Hey guys. I didn't know where else to post this, but it may be worthy of its own thread depending on how it develops @Raider; I'll leave it to your discretion where this use of bandwith should go).

My buddy has a 2012 VW GLI (completely stock), which uses the same HPFP internals as our AutoTech upgrade. Last month, his fuel pump went to complete shit, sending the car into limp mode and requiring a completely new HPFP. Apparently many GLI owners are seeing fuel pressure issues (even without mods), though his is the only outright failure he's heard of. Now, it was his first forced induction car, and his first stick-shift, so it's possible (likely, even) that he was loading the engine at low RPM and fucked something up. I'll get more details from him if you guys think this is worth keeping an eye on.

TL;DR - Buddy's GLI (same HPFP as our upgraded internals) had catastrophic fuel pump failure just 4 months into ownership (10K miles already).

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 Old 11-19-2012, 12:47 PM   #55
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not sure how that is needed here. Just means they need to get MS3's, and we need to steal their fuel pumps and swap internals. Sounds like they need our entire pump use autotechs, and done.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:38 AM   #56
 
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So which one is the best to install, have seen alot of issues here with the Autotech...anyone.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:57 AM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by qweedqwag View Post
So which one is the best to install, have seen alot of issues here with the Autotech...anyone.
Autotechs are just the most popular, so there are more posts about them... and the vast majority of posters that have issues with them (other than squeek squeek squeek, which can be fixed and has been attributed to pressure spikes/release on cold startups) had issues because they didn't install them correctly.

I honestly can't recall a thread where a set of properly installed AT's failed - and I know several people that have been running them for tens of thousands of miles with no issues.

If you are concerned with installation you can always order a CP-e pump, but all you are getting is a stock pump with upgraded internals, although they do have a lifetime warranty; I've heard that some folks have had issues taking advantage of it.

Anyhow, AT and CP-e seem the most common today.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 07:44 PM   #58
 
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Hey I just bought my Speed6 like 2 months ago and so far (that I know of) I have a F5 CAI, Cobb TIH, Cobb ap runing stage 1 with personal tune, Magnaflow CBE, ITV 22s, HKS SSQ rec, and I just got my downpipe. I don't know if I have HPFP internals or not. Using my AP my FP is staying between 1700 and 1800 at WOT. Does that sound normal or do you guys think I might have new internals? The temp where I'm at has been staying between 30* and 45* right now. I'm almost postive the previous owner had a downpipe because the turbo heat shield is gone so I'm aussuming I have internals. Thanks for any input.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:03 PM   #59
 
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@MS6219; sounds like you might.

Though it would probably be best to take the pump appart and have a look just to be sure.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:13 PM   #60
 
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Ya I've looked at the bolts to see if maybe there was any wear on them or anything but they look untouched or at least for a good amount of time of coarse the car is 6 almost 7 years old. Ya I just thought that was a decent amount of mods plus I'm pushing 17.5 with no knock and FP staying high. Thanks for your input!

smoogs12; How do you like your hankook V12s? I had a set on my Si and Hated them. lol
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:19 PM   #61
 
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Originally Posted by MS6219 View Post
Hey I just bought my Speed6 like 2 months ago and so far (that I know of) I have a F5 CAI, Cobb TIH, Cobb ap runing stage 1 with personal tune, Magnaflow CBE, ITV 22s, HKS SSQ rec, and I just got my downpipe. I don't know if I have HPFP internals or not. Using my AP my FP is staying between 1700 and 1800 at WOT. Does that sound normal or do you guys think I might have new internals? The temp where I'm at has been staying between 30* and 45* right now. I'm almost postive the previous owner had a downpipe because the turbo heat shield is gone so I'm aussuming I have internals. Thanks for any input.
Those FP numbers aren't uncommon for stock internals, the only way to tell is to crack open the pump and take a look. Prior to installing the KMD's (do not purchase KMD btw) i was seeing 1700's.. the issue is there is really no warning signs of when (not if) they'll fail, they just do. And then well, zoom zoom.. you know the rest.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:22 PM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by MS6219 View Post
Ya I've looked at the bolts to see if maybe there was any wear on them or anything but they look untouched or at least for a good amount of time of coarse the car is 6 almost 7 years old. Ya I just thought that was a decent amount of mods plus I'm pushing 17.5 with no knock and FP staying high. Thanks for your input!

smoogs12; How do you like your hankook V12s? I had a set on my Si and Hated them. lol
As far as the bolts being untouched, it could be a cpe pump. They do a full replacement as apposed to an internals swap, so there shouldn't really be much wear on the bolts.

The v12s are alright. Better than my winter setup anyways (nankang as1). I plan on switching to nt05's or nt555r's this coming summer. But lets save any further talk on that for another thread.
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 Old 11-24-2012, 08:30 PM   #63
 
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Ya I guess I better just open it up and take a look at it to be safe. Thanks alot everyone. Deff not going with KMD's. I've read alot of issues with them. Deff gonna go with Autotechs if I don't have internals. Sorry for going a bit off topic with the tires. lol
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 Old 11-25-2012, 08:07 AM   #64
 
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Ya open it up, there also might be some donation money in there for the site hmmmmm?
Hook it up.

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 Old 12-12-2012, 11:09 AM   #65
 
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Default HPFP Internals

I've noticed most people have gone with the autotech internals and seem to be happy with them. has anyone done the KMD Tuning - 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump Kit? It has free shipping and cost a little less at 330. I'm ready to buy internals today just want to make sure I get the best ones for my money. So does anyone run any internals that are not autotech?
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 Old 12-12-2012, 11:11 AM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by loganshaun View Post
I've noticed most people have gone with the autotech internals and seem to be happy with them. has anyone done the KMD Tuning - 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump Kit? It has free shipping and cost a little less at 330. I'm ready to buy internals today just want to make sure I get the best ones for my money. So does anyone run any internals that are not autotech?
Search and you shall receive all your answers


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 Old 12-27-2012, 10:59 AM   #67
 
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Do you guys know how much the internals rotate in the pump during operation?
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 Old 12-27-2012, 12:47 PM   #68
 
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Originally Posted by Dizzy Turbo View Post
Do you guys know how much the internals rotate in the pump during operation?
No
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 Old 01-26-2013, 08:13 PM   #69
 
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 Old 01-26-2013, 08:19 PM   #70
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Javier, you should not waste your first post like this. Make a new thread.
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 Old 01-29-2013, 09:23 PM   #71
 
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My MS3 knowledge is shit, but if the HFFP goes out, wouldn't the car enter limp mode, prior to "engine going boom"? I know on my current car when my HFFP connection came loose, boost was unobtainable and anything past 3K was not happening either. Just curious if the MS3 does the same.
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 Old 01-29-2013, 09:57 PM   #72
 
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Originally Posted by BoostedWagon View Post
My MS3 knowledge is shit, but if the HFFP goes out, wouldn't the car enter limp mode, prior to "engine going boom"? I know on my current car when my HFFP connection came loose, boost was unobtainable and anything past 3K was not happening either. Just curious if the MS3 does the same.
My GTI used to do this. I don't think this at does
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 Old 01-30-2013, 03:09 AM   #73
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You think that if it did, we would post this?
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 Old 01-30-2013, 06:36 AM   #74
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This isn't about absolute failure of the hpfp, but pump output being under desired pressure.
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 Old 01-30-2013, 06:42 AM   #75
 
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Which causes people to blow up, I would consider that a total failure
Edit: read fail. I thought your post was that kid replying to raider. Whoops haha
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 Old 02-11-2013, 01:19 PM   #76
 
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New questions. What is the difference in cpe's hpfp spring compared to stock besides number of coils as plainly seen. Stock having seven and cpe running a 6 coil spring. first is stock second is cpe. And if they are different is there a benefit or not? And where to buy? Cuz cpe wont sell you a replacement spring. @Raider; I couldn't find anything on this topic. @www.cp-e.com;
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 Old 02-11-2013, 01:37 PM   #77
 
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Originally Posted by Menace1 View Post
New questions. What is the difference in cpe's hpfp spring compared to stock besides number of coils as plainly seen. Stock having seven and cpe running a 6 coil spring. first is stock second is cpe. And if they are different is there a benefit or not? And where to buy? Cuz cpe wont sell you a replacement spring. @Raider; I couldn't find anything on this topic.
I'd assume it is a stiffer spring and/or a different material, but honestly, there is no way of knowing why they changed the spring without talking to them or APR. We can sit here and guess all day long.

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 Old 02-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by sidekick View Post
I'd assume it is a stiffer spring and/or a different material, but honestly, there is no way of knowing why they changed the spring without talking to them or APR. We can sit here and guess all day long.

@www.cp-e.com;
This is true. but I wasn't sure if it was covered already and didn't want to start a new thread. I fixed the cpe mention.
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 Old 02-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #79
 
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So I did some more research through apr and found it to be a high modulus spring. if cpe can expand on the benefits of this for our cars compared to the stock spring it would be very beneficial.
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 Old 02-12-2013, 08:22 AM   #80
 
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Doesn't the stock spring work fine? Not bashing, but why upgrade a working part, maybe I'm missing something.
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