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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in! |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I see what your saying.. If the CDFP is having trouble keeping up, then your thinking its because the supply is dwindling? Perhaps the answer to that isnt about the feed rate to the CDFP as much as it is the amount of fuel the CDFP is taking in per cycle. In this case you wouldnt fix the high pressure problem without upgraded internals. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Went to get Dyno'd at Cobb last week. Running stg 2 with Auto Tech internals. Tuner said my FP failed while tuning. He tuned for my intake before the pump gave out so he built me a baseline map and said for me to put the stock internals back in and to investigate the Autotech ones for scoring or defects. I went home took the pump appart and found the Autotech internals ok with No sign of scoring or damage. While I had the pump out I investigated the housing and found a four-digit number on the high pressure line out of the pump. After research I found that the number which was 7215 was the manufacturing date of that pump and there was a service bulletin online from mazda stating that any pump manufactured before march 2007 should be replaced. When opening the pump with the 18mm socket to reinstall the OEM internals the stainless steel cylinder where the piston comes through was loose enough that I didnt have to place the pump in a vice to unscrew the stainless steel cylinder.Went ahead and put the stock internals back in.This time I took my torque wrench and tightened the 18mm stainless steel cylinder to about 35lb/ft, to ensure it would unscrew. Now running that base map, I keep throwing P2187 over and over again. Does this mean I need to purchase a brand new pump. I do have they Autotech internals cleaned and ready to install again. Did my pump fail on the dyno becuase the stainless steel cylinder started to back it self out, or did it fail because it was a faulty pump assembly from the factory( new internals were installed) Knowledgable people please help as I dont want to have to spend 400$ on a brand new pump if I dont have too. I want me car to run good again so I can get it back on the dyno for a protune. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Hey sorry if this has been covered but I searched and didn't find a definitive answer. I understand that ~400 is good for idle and ~1750+ is good for WOT. I'm good on both those counts. I was cruising on the highway today and noticed my FP dropped to 280 while using cruise control and coasting down a hill at about 75mph. Is this acceptable? I've got autotech internals.
__________________ 2011 Black Mica MS3 FREEKTUNE (On hold 'til EWG) ATP GTX3071R IWG (soon to be EWG) Full Race exhaust manifold CP-e whale peen + 3.25 in. intake COBB EBCS + Downpipe + BPV + AP Stage 2 Corksport CBE + Brake Pads Ultimate FMIC NGK Iridium IX @ .28 DDM HID 6000k Autotech CDFP Internals JBarone EGR delete, TB + IM gaskets, SSP + Shift Anchors, 88D RMM, 70D passenger + tranny mount, RSB, and OCC HTP battery box TSW Nurburgrings 18x8.5 MBR w/ Michelin Pilot Super Sports 235x40x18 +45 Goodridge SS Brake Lines Installation TBD: H&R springs + Koni yellow shocks + struts Last edited by duappleganger; 09-16-2012 at 09:52 PM. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Mine does the same. Of I can remember correctly, the desired pressure dropped that low too so it shouldn't be a problem. But I would ask someone else to confirm this.
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() During coast/ engine braking the ecu cuts fuel, there is no demand for fuel so the commanded pressure most likely drops- I have not paid attention to my pressure while coasting, but I would not worry about it.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() So I noticed the OP jumps straight to the importance of the CDFP upgrade, so is the in-tank not a limiting factor for bolt on performance? I'm guessing because it only has to flow into the single point to the high pressure pump vs. maintaining pressure to a rail and four injectors? |
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__________________ BNR S3---GS 3PORT---3bar map---COBB SRI & TIP---PG/GODSPEED FMIC ---DNP MANI--- CNT catted TBE--CP-E HPFP-- DIY P&P'd intake mani---SURE TIG(mani & tb)---DIY EGR delete---DIY VCTS delete--- DIY OCC/PCV reroute(through old egr port)---CP-E S2 RMM---JBR 80 PMM---TS BPV--- SURE ANCHORS---JBR shift weight---Whiteline RSB 25%E85FREEKPERMED | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Got a K&N SRI on '11 speed3 and was planning for a FMIC. Was rather disturbed to find out that fp upgrade should be done FIRST as talked here. I am currently, however, logging 1650-1750 psi consistently on WOT, peaking at 1800-ish. Should I still prioritize fp upgrade if I were to do AP stage 1 for now?
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Now, do you mean driving at a constant speed/rpm, when you say coast? If not, Is there an acceptable FP pressure while at "cruising speed"? Noticed a pressure drop while at crusing speed with cruise control on, and i was curious. I have AT internals installed.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() light load fp (.3-.5 calc load) will fall somewhere between 1100-1300psi
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Hey guys. I didn't know where else to post this, but it may be worthy of its own thread depending on how it develops @Raider; I'll leave it to your discretion where this use of bandwith should go). My buddy has a 2012 VW GLI (completely stock), which uses the same HPFP internals as our AutoTech upgrade. Last month, his fuel pump went to complete shit, sending the car into limp mode and requiring a completely new HPFP. Apparently many GLI owners are seeing fuel pressure issues (even without mods), though his is the only outright failure he's heard of. Now, it was his first forced induction car, and his first stick-shift, so it's possible (likely, even) that he was loading the engine at low RPM and fucked something up. I'll get more details from him if you guys think this is worth keeping an eye on. TL;DR - Buddy's GLI (same HPFP as our upgraded internals) had catastrophic fuel pump failure just 4 months into ownership (10K miles already). TIS
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() not sure how that is needed here. Just means they need to get MS3's, and we need to steal their fuel pumps and swap internals. Sounds like they need our entire pump use autotechs, and done. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() So which one is the best to install, have seen alot of issues here with the Autotech...anyone. |
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I honestly can't recall a thread where a set of properly installed AT's failed - and I know several people that have been running them for tens of thousands of miles with no issues. If you are concerned with installation you can always order a CP-e pump, but all you are getting is a stock pump with upgraded internals, although they do have a lifetime warranty; I've heard that some folks have had issues taking advantage of it. Anyhow, AT and CP-e seem the most common today.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Hey I just bought my Speed6 like 2 months ago and so far (that I know of) I have a F5 CAI, Cobb TIH, Cobb ap runing stage 1 with personal tune, Magnaflow CBE, ITV 22s, HKS SSQ rec, and I just got my downpipe. I don't know if I have HPFP internals or not. Using my AP my FP is staying between 1700 and 1800 at WOT. Does that sound normal or do you guys think I might have new internals? The temp where I'm at has been staying between 30* and 45* right now. I'm almost postive the previous owner had a downpipe because the turbo heat shield is gone so I'm aussuming I have internals. Thanks for any input.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() @MS6219; sounds like you might. Though it would probably be best to take the pump appart and have a look just to be sure.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Ya I've looked at the bolts to see if maybe there was any wear on them or anything but they look untouched or at least for a good amount of time of coarse the car is 6 almost 7 years old. Ya I just thought that was a decent amount of mods plus I'm pushing 17.5 with no knock and FP staying high. Thanks for your input! smoogs12; How do you like your hankook V12s? I had a set on my Si and Hated them. lol
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The v12s are alright. Better than my winter setup anyways (nankang as1). I plan on switching to nt05's or nt555r's this coming summer. But lets save any further talk on that for another thread.
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Ya I guess I better just open it up and take a look at it to be safe. Thanks alot everyone. Deff not going with KMD's. I've read alot of issues with them. Deff gonna go with Autotechs if I don't have internals. Sorry for going a bit off topic with the tires. lol
__________________ 06 MS6 GT W/NAVI Freektuned 411AWHP 397AWTQ W/3 gal E85, 93oct: 351AWHP 365AWTQ BNRs3, magnaflow CBE, eBay catless down pipe, CX-racing FMIC, Autotech internals, turbosmart dual port bpv, sure Full3 Aeros, grimmspeed 3 port EBC, ITV22, JBR EGR delete, JBR 80 TMM, JBR 80 PMM, SURE RMM, SURE Dreadnaught, CS short shift plate, 3 bar MAP w/PNP harness, block8head vent pod w/depot boost gauge, AP, ZZB... 06 MS6 GT W/NAVI CS stage II sri, JBR RMM, turbosmart dual port bpv, ultimate racing tp |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Ya open it up, there also might be some donation money in there for the site hmmmmm? Hook it up. Mike |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I've noticed most people have gone with the autotech internals and seem to be happy with them. has anyone done the KMD Tuning - 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump Kit? It has free shipping and cost a little less at 330. I'm ready to buy internals today just want to make sure I get the best ones for my money. So does anyone run any internals that are not autotech? |
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Tappin
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Do you guys know how much the internals rotate in the pump during operation? |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Javier, you should not waste your first post like this. Make a new thread. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() My MS3 knowledge is shit, but if the HFFP goes out, wouldn't the car enter limp mode, prior to "engine going boom"? I know on my current car when my HFFP connection came loose, boost was unobtainable and anything past 3K was not happening either. Just curious if the MS3 does the same. |
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__________________ Cobb AP+ Stratified OTS--JBR Powerpath Stage III intake-- Turbosmart BPV--AutoTech Fuel Pump Internals--CPE TMIC-- OBX test pipe+ UR catback--ITV-22 plugs-- H&R springs--CPE RMM- JBR PMM and TMM-- ![]() | |
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![]() | ![]() | #73 | ![]() |
6 mods and some Kool-Aid ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() You think that if it did, we would post this? |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Raider For This Useful Post: | Dizzy Turbo (01-30-2013), Mooseknuckler (07-31-2015) |
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POWERED BY POLSKA ![]() Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Eagle, WI
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]() This isn't about absolute failure of the hpfp, but pump output being under desired pressure.
__________________ BNR S3---GS 3PORT---3bar map---COBB SRI & TIP---PG/GODSPEED FMIC ---DNP MANI--- CNT catted TBE--CP-E HPFP-- DIY P&P'd intake mani---SURE TIG(mani & tb)---DIY EGR delete---DIY VCTS delete--- DIY OCC/PCV reroute(through old egr port)---CP-E S2 RMM---JBR 80 PMM---TS BPV--- SURE ANCHORS---JBR shift weight---Whiteline RSB 25%E85FREEKPERMED |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Which causes people to blow up, I would consider that a total failure Edit: read fail. I thought your post was that kid replying to raider. Whoops haha |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() New questions. What is the difference in cpe's hpfp spring compared to stock besides number of coils as plainly seen. Stock having seven and cpe running a 6 coil spring. first is stock second is cpe. And if they are different is there a benefit or not? And where to buy? Cuz cpe wont sell you a replacement spring. @Raider; I couldn't find anything on this topic. @www.cp-e.com;
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2012 MS3 / Cobb AP/ JBR / STRATIFIED Stage 1 Tuned / Stock K04 / CPE HPFP / Maisonvi Heavy Shift Knob / JBR Powerpath Intake / JBR TIP / JBR BT / JBR BVH / JBR 88D RMM / FOR NOW... Last edited by Menace1; 02-11-2013 at 01:42 PM. |
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@www.cp-e.com;
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed6 FreekTune | 91 | JBR 3", PMM & RMM | CS Racepipe, TMIC & TMM Inserts | Autotechs ![]() | |
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__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2012 MS3 / Cobb AP/ JBR / STRATIFIED Stage 1 Tuned / Stock K04 / CPE HPFP / Maisonvi Heavy Shift Knob / JBR Powerpath Intake / JBR TIP / JBR BT / JBR BVH / JBR 88D RMM / FOR NOW... | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Menace1 For This Useful Post: | sidekick (02-11-2013) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() So I did some more research through apr and found it to be a high modulus spring. if cpe can expand on the benefits of this for our cars compared to the stock spring it would be very beneficial.
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2012 MS3 / Cobb AP/ JBR / STRATIFIED Stage 1 Tuned / Stock K04 / CPE HPFP / Maisonvi Heavy Shift Knob / JBR Powerpath Intake / JBR TIP / JBR BT / JBR BVH / JBR 88D RMM / FOR NOW... |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Doesn't the stock spring work fine? Not bashing, but why upgrade a working part, maybe I'm missing something. |
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