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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 12-24-2016, 04:18 PM   #281
 
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Yeah your going to have to defenitely get hpfp internals. Usually an intake you don't have to but since you have tip as well it's recommended so you won't join the zoom zoom boom club. Most people run autotech. But I'm sure Cobbs is just as good
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 Old 12-24-2016, 04:23 PM   #282
 
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Cobb sells Autotech internals...

So, yeah, lots of us have 'em in our cars.
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 Old 12-24-2016, 05:32 PM   #283
 
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Thanks a lot lads. Much apreciated. Definitely going to be my next buy. Cheers and happy holidays.
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 Old 03-12-2017, 12:26 PM   #284
 
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I am having trouble getting my HPFP back onto the motor. I changed the internals years ago with no problem and I am currently changing the hard line to a CS braided line. I pulled the pump off and now it will not even come close to seating correctly. It's like the shaft from the pump inside the spring is being blocked when I try seating it. Is the lifter supposed to be down in a hole to allow the shaft to slide in there? It looks the same as the pictures I see everywhere else....
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 Old 03-12-2017, 01:25 PM   #285
 
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The cup shaped metal piece in the hole likely flipped over. The cup opening needs to face the hpfp. Either that or your o-ring needs replaced.
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 Old 03-25-2017, 04:04 PM   #286
 
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I've heard mixed answers about this question, but i'm currently in the market to get some autotech interals, and are used interals safe to get? I don't see why they wouldn't be especially with autotech's fantastic return policy, some people say absolutely not, some say why not? Is it safe for me to save 100 bucks and grab some used ones?
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 Old 04-18-2017, 05:51 PM   #287
 
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From previous answers in this thread used don't seem to be a huge issue. If you're worried about it get new ones.

Considering I don't see many used Internals in the for sale section I shall be buying new. Probably corksport because I will also be getting my SRI from them. Might as well save some cash that way
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 Old 05-26-2017, 08:25 AM   #288
 
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How about the Cobb Mazdaspeed fuel pump internals? How are they?
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 Old 05-26-2017, 08:37 AM   #289
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Originally Posted by BloodBanez View Post
How about the Cobb Mazdaspeed fuel pump internals? How are they?
There's no such thing.
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 Old 05-26-2017, 12:00 PM   #290
 
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Originally Posted by BloodBanez View Post
How about the Cobb Mazdaspeed fuel pump internals? How are they?


You mean autotechs? Thats what they sell on their site. I just installed mine and they work as advertised.


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 Old 05-26-2017, 12:35 PM   #291
 
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Yeah I just did some more reading and noticed that that's what they were
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 Old 05-29-2017, 07:02 PM   #292
 
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After installing a new hpfp with aftermarket internals, as well as tuning the cobb stage 2 ots map, within 10 miles of my car driving home it died and came back to live immediately after, I thought it was because I was very low on gas, filled it same to fix the issue, then finally my car threw a code P2188 (too rich at idle) my car ended up running so rich unused fuel would drip from the exhaust and a little smoke on acceleration, so putting the pieces together I immediately swapped pumps back to my stock one, fixed the smoke and fuel drip, code didn't go away. Then I decided to clean my MAF, pull my intake look for leaks, re tune to stage 0 (stock), and also reset my ECU. Nothing fixed the code, still idling at around 700rpms. All of my gauges/data logs show normal levels for hpfp levels, AFR, and so on. I have been told it could be my bank 2 02 sensor, my purge valve, spark plug, or open injector. I just find it very coincidental that somehow within 10 miles of a fresh tune/fuel pump it throws this code. Any ideas will help!
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 Old 05-30-2017, 05:03 AM   #293
 
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Originally Posted by Dawson_MS6 View Post
After installing a new hpfp with aftermarket internals, as well as tuning the cobb stage 2 ots map, within 10 miles of my car driving home it died and came back to live immediately after, I thought it was because I was very low on gas, filled it same to fix the issue, then finally my car threw a code P2188 (too rich at idle) my car ended up running so rich unused fuel would drip from the exhaust and a little smoke on acceleration, so putting the pieces together I immediately swapped pumps back to my stock one, fixed the smoke and fuel drip, code didn't go away. Then I decided to clean my MAF, pull my intake look for leaks, re tune to stage 0 (stock), and also reset my ECU. Nothing fixed the code, still idling at around 700rpms. All of my gauges/data logs show normal levels for hpfp levels, AFR, and so on. I have been told it could be my bank 2 02 sensor, my purge valve, spark plug, or open injector. I just find it very coincidental that somehow within 10 miles of a fresh tune/fuel pump it throws this code. Any ideas will help!
What did you remove when you pulled the HPFP, other than the pump itself?
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 Old 05-30-2017, 08:30 AM   #294
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Also, did you add any other aftermarket parts at the same time?
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 Old 05-30-2017, 10:10 AM   #295
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
What did you remove when you pulled the HPFP, other than the pump itself?
All I did was remove my fuel lines, crack and remove my hpfp line, remove the reverse torques bits and remove my pump and re install my new pump, all the normal protocol, then I tuned my car for stage 2 which includes all my mods and pump, my ltft and stft are also quite low. My stft at idle is around -14

Originally Posted by Vansquish View Post
Also, did you add any other aftermarket parts at the same time?
Nope, just hpfp swap and stage 2 tune
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 Old 05-30-2017, 11:07 AM   #296
 
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Originally Posted by Dawson_MS6 View Post
buncha stuff
Remove the internals you installed on the other pump, inspect, and post pictures. Make sure the o ring in the cylinder retainer is still in there. Hint: If the piston moves freely, it is surely missing.
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 Old 05-30-2017, 12:14 PM   #297
 
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Originally Posted by MD1032 View Post
Remove the internals you installed on the other pump, inspect, and post pictures. Make sure the o ring in the cylinder retainer is still in there. Hint: If the piston moves freely, it is surely missing.
I never installed the aftermarket internals in either of the two pumps, I bought one pump with internals already installed and my stock pump which worked perfectly fine prior, both pumps and both internals throw the code, my hpfp active pressure levels are normal. I think it might be an o2 sensor or maybe purge valve, just a coincidence it happened so soon after hpfp install
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 Old 06-29-2017, 06:11 PM   #298
 
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Default prv or hpfp fail

I am experiencing fuel pressure issues, i am trying to determine if I have a fuel pump or pressure relief failure. car runs like shit, has fuel cut, giving me random misfire codes, and sputtering, has good compression and spark. I've attached logs. Log 27 idle with a rev. not sure what the other 2 logs were but I know they were logged in fault. Any ideas would help.
Attached Files
File Type: csv datalog27.csv (24.6 KB, 3 views)
File Type: csv datalog25.csv (23.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv datalog24.csv (149.7 KB, 0 views)
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 Old 06-29-2018, 05:29 AM   #299
 
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There are different ways to fry tomatoes, but each of them will require the hostess to spend several hours in the kitchen, so this yavstvo is usually better correct do on weekends or for special occasions. When tomatoes are roasted, they get a deep taste and are combined with seafood, antipasto and other roasted vegetables. Moreover, they are good suitable for application in the baking industry, in making bread or cake with custard.
canning stewed tomatoes
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