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MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Fuel, Nitrous & Water Injection Have a CDFP fuel pump question? Do you want to add Nitrous or Water Injection to your Mazdaspeed 3/6 ? Please come on in!


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 Old 11-14-2011, 01:46 AM   #1
 
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Default the problems continue

So I have had a lot of problems in the past once I got this DO kit installed. I had a shop do it and I started having electrical issues and somehow got my ecu fried. I don;t think it was related to the meth kit but maybe during installation process. However now that I have replaced my ecu I am attacking the meth issues.
GT2871r fully bolted
1) the d05 nozzle is loose and I saw that it was leaking meth on the IC cold pipe where it is tapped.
2) should I replace the nozzle or just bondo it on there?
3) I noticed my tank would empty within a couple minutes of driving. I only found that one leak
4)As of now I only disconnected the power source tapped into the maf sensor

I could use all the help I could get. Ive been super busy at college and its been hard to tackle the problem. Thanks MSF
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 Old 11-14-2011, 01:55 AM   #2
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Sounds like your spraying full time, ide find another shop asap lol.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 03:55 AM   #3
 
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Unplug the controller power. Removing signal from the controller will still make it spray. Make sure the nozzle is installed correctly, and tight. The DO nozzle I have is on the small side of 1/8 NPT. Check the signal from the MAF and make sure that it changes, and is not the 5V signal. What does(did) the controller show when you were having problems?

Like said above, find a competent shop.

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 Old 11-14-2011, 02:46 PM   #4
 
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Im not positive at the moment I dont really remember. But from what I can recall only the power light stays on and when I connect the maf signal the pump and power signal came on. Im pretty sure the power for the controller is from the cigarette light because its mounted right next to it. Then again I didnt install it so im not positive. Does that sound like the most reasonable spot to tap for power?
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 Old 11-14-2011, 03:02 PM   #5
 
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There are 2 power wires to the controller. 1 is for constant 12v, the other is for an ignition source. Although your shop may have put them both to the ignition, as that would allow it to function as well.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 03:02 PM   #6
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Let's attack this problem

1st let's stop the leaking. Here's the thing with those nozzles, make sure you have that rubber oring that came with the nozzle, also tmic cold pipes are cast aluminum which is porous and the pipe itself is somewhat uneven and a bit tricky to good seal with the rubber oring. You could polish it down by hand with a dremel or you can nig rig it like me and silicone around the very most top portion of the threads. Be careful as we don't want any getting into your engine bay or clogging the nozzle.

2nd issue, if you are leaking a full tank within minutes, somethign is horribly wrong. I highly doubt your kit is spraying 100 percent all the time. Explain to me more about the couple of minutes part. Are you cruising are you gtoin wot? What is going on in this "couple of minutes"

Finally your controller. I don't use maf singal controllers so I couldn't help ya. Personally I prefer progressive controllers with their own boost sensor but that is preference.

. Where is your tank located? You may also be leaking out the tank
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 Old 11-14-2011, 03:04 PM   #7
 
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you should be powering your meth controller from the p outlet fuse in the engine bay. DO NOT USE OTHER FUSES. the reason for this is because it is powered when the key is "ON" but not powered when the key is "START". some people were hydrolocking because of spray at cranking due to some phantom maf voltage spikes.

if you are unplugging it, unplug everything electrical because you can ruin the controller if it is not seeing any voltage.

fix that nozzle leak

prime the system and check for other leaks
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 Old 11-14-2011, 03:12 PM   #8
 
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Also unplug the 12v from the battery to the pump in your engine bay, just to be safe.

I am going with a tank leak though, if he was spraying all that meth or leaking it into the engine, his shit would be fucked up by now.
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 Old 11-14-2011, 03:44 PM   #9
 
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12v to battery? i dont have that
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 Old 11-14-2011, 05:18 PM   #10
 
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In those couple minutes the car was driven casually I havent been able to WOT for a long ass time since I dont have a custom tune. I checked again today and the power light is the only light that stays on when the cars on. I have a front mount intercooler the guy just did an awful job installing it.My tank is mounted right in front of my driver side wheel so there is a possibility there could be a leak but it wasnt the last time I checked. How do I check if everything is working properly? Is there a chance the pump is defective? Lastly can you be more specific about tapping into the p outlet in the fuse? Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it.

At this point I was thinking about just ripping the whole kit out so I can finally tune this bitch. Im so sick of all the problems this meth has caused I had to replace the ecu too.

O yeah were the vip memberships renewed or something? WHere did mine go lol
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Last edited by h0rsies; 11-14-2011 at 05:18 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 11-14-2011, 05:51 PM   #11
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Do you live in socal, bring that shit to nator. You'll be running 15's n no time
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 Old 11-15-2011, 12:04 AM   #12
 
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Nope I'm on the east coast studying at Penn State. I wish I was out in socal
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 Old 11-15-2011, 03:50 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by h0rsies View Post
Nope I'm on the east coast studying at Penn State. I wish I was out in socal
Penn State is getting it rough lately.

I'm with the other guys who say that your tank is leaking, but @ this point, we are all speculating.

1st thing I'd do is get a proper bung welded into the cold pipe though.

The nozzle threads aren't very deep, and having some meat to tighten the nozzle into will solve that issue.

Goop e-6000 is provided in all snow kits and is supposedly a meth resistant sealant.

If you have leaks from somewhere, I'd give it a try.

It is available @ most craft stores.

weldable bung here:
(you'll want the aluminum version {thanks to DJ for welding advice})

Snow Performance: Nozzle Mounting Bung
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 Old 11-15-2011, 06:56 AM   #14
 
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Sorry to double post, but I wish DO would come up a bit stronger quality wise.

Maybe it isn't so much the quality of the parts themselves, but a quality control issue.

Dunno, but < happy with my DO kit.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 07:09 AM   #15
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You should meet up with the Nator PA guys. First you should donate if you plan on sticking around. This place has saved my car numerous times. Worth it.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 07:48 AM   #16
 
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just rip the kit off and sell it to me.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:34 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Penn State is getting it rough lately.

I'm with the other guys who say that your tank is leaking, but @ this point, we are all speculating.

1st thing I'd do is get a proper bung welded into the cold pipe though.

The nozzle threads aren't very deep, and having some meat to tighten the nozzle into will solve that issue.

Goop e-6000 is provided in all snow kits and is supposedly a meth resistant sealant.

If you have leaks from somewhere, I'd give it a try.

It is available @ most craft stores.

weldable bung here:
(you'll want the aluminum version {thanks to DJ for welding advice})

Snow Performance: Nozzle Mounting Bung
Oh I know we are still getting trampled on I got to participate in some riots though which has been exciting. I am planning on getting that bung welded asap. I will then probably get some red loctite to secure the nozzle.

Originally Posted by AtTheDriveIn View Post
You should meet up with the Nator PA guys. First you should donate if you plan on sticking around. This place has saved my car numerous times. Worth it.
I have donated already thats why I was wondering where my vip membership went. Did they renew it or does it expire after a while? Where can I find out info about NATOR PA?
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:48 AM   #18
 
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 Old 11-15-2011, 12:55 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
You have to donate once per year. If it was over a year ago, your VIP is expired.
I will be donating tomorrow once I get money in my account. I have found the main issue to my problems. I found out that I have the 2.5 bar controller which requires a map source. I bought a brand new kit off of 247mazda 2 years ago and had no idea it wasnt the right kit. I just placed an order for a new controller so that I can run off a vacuum source. Hopefully this will fix all my issues.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 01:10 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by h0rsies View Post
I will be donating tomorrow once I get money in my account. I have found the main issue to my problems. I found out that I have the 2.5 bar controller which requires a map source. I bought a brand new kit off of 247mazda 2 years ago and had no idea it wasnt the right kit. I just placed an order for a new controller so that I can run off a vacuum source. Hopefully this will fix all my issues.
I think this is the source of your problems
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 Old 11-15-2011, 01:41 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by adlpb View Post
I think this is the source of your problems
LOL I know I started off there over 2 years ago until I found this forum. This is my first car I have made a lot of mistakes. But I realized MSF has got rid of their marketplace?
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Originally Posted by h0rsies View Post
LOL I know I started off there over 2 years ago until I found this forum. This is my first car I have made a lot of mistakes. But I realized MSF has got rid of their marketplace?
No, you just can't see it because of your brown status. Donate and get VIP back.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 02:55 PM   #23
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Hello horsies, I strongly suggest hooking your 2.5 bar controller up to the 2.5 bar map sensor in your car. Its what it was designed for. Instructions can be found here and our site. And be careful of who hooks up your parts and who you take advice from on this forum.

I believe i have posted up on this forum alone at least 20 times. But the maf sensor in these cars are finicky i would not hook anything up to them.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 04:06 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by DevilsOwn View Post
Hello horsies, I strongly suggest hooking your 2.5 bar controller up to the 2.5 bar map sensor in your car. Its what it was designed for. Instructions can be found here and our site. And be careful of who hooks up your parts and who you take advice from on this forum.

I believe i have posted up on this forum alone at least 20 times. But the map sensor in these cars are finicky i would not hook anyting up to them.
IMO, instead of warning forum members not to take the forum's advice, you should be thanking us for providing proper instructions.

For the longest time, the directions on your site for gen2 vs. gen1 were incorrect, and as a vendor here, you should rely less on the members to correct your mistakes.

Last edited by rfinkle2; 11-15-2011 at 05:20 PM.
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 Old 11-15-2011, 05:43 PM   #25
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That's right devilsown you just got finkled
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 Old 11-15-2011, 10:47 PM   #26
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I am just trying to put a end to bad advice. I ran into a few forum guys from here a few weeks back at Ennis raceway. Told me i should make better attempts to get on here and keep up with my tech.

Told me something about some guy who hydroloced there motor because they hooked it up all wrong. I don't know if he was told wrong or just did wrong. Which i told them i been selling these for a few years and its the first time i heard of someone really doing it, even when doing it all wrong still damaged something.

Yea the specific instructions for the ms3 cars i have changed afew times. Still honestly lacking for what i would like to have. i have talked to lenny tell me it was 1 wire, talked to haltec tell me it was another hand some other guy tell me this and that. I was just getting conflicting about the ecu pin outs. Kinda really the biggest thorn was this car on figuring out where to get the signal from. As everwhere i looked i got a different answer. I am the only meth kit company that gives/ makes atempt to do spedific instructions. You get a kit from any of my competitors they just tell you hook it up to 0-5v output or boost line. You call them with an install question they tell you to take it to a shop. I will walk you threw installing it.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 02:19 AM   #27
 
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Originally Posted by DevilsOwn View Post
I strongly suggest hooking your 2.5 bar controller up to the 2.5 bar map sensor in your car.

Originally Posted by DevilsOwn View Post
the map sensor in these cars are finicky i would not hook anyting up to them.
Huh?
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 Old 11-16-2011, 06:31 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by DevilsOwn View Post
I am just trying to put a end to bad advice. I ran into a few forum guys from here a few weeks back at Ennis raceway. Told me i should make better attempts to get on here and keep up with my tech.

Told me something about some guy who hydroloced there motor because they hooked it up all wrong. I don't know if he was told wrong or just did wrong. Which i told them i been selling these for a few years and its the first time i heard of someone really doing it, even when doing it all wrong still damaged something.
It was not hooked up "all wrong". He simply connected it to his MAF instead of his MAP to try and gain better control.

You might want to take a read through the thread, as there are others who have noted issues with the pull-up type resistor that your controller uses.

Link to beginning of troubles here...
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1052302
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 Old 11-16-2011, 09:41 AM   #29
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We saying hooked up all wrong is a ittie harsh. Didn't really mean it like that. finkled got under my skin. As its apparent he just trying to instigate issues. Really just meant the wire was possibly loose. The maf can be used but i don't' feel its ideal.

I am sure most everyone knows we been selling these controllers for a few years now. There are a few speed3 running the voltage input 2.5 bar controllers these now with no issues. This car and all the figuring out the wiring bs was honestly the driving force in me twisting the arm of the guy who makes my controllers for me, into making the dvc30 with it built in map sensor. Which was a pita as he not open to what i want. Just what he wants to sell me. But that's another story. Remember i am just a tiny company trying to get things going.

Just to clear the air.
someone has posted up that he is 90% sure there is a pull up resistor in the kit. There is not a methanol injection kit that uses resistors to pull up the signal or even down. They are all going to be setup like a volt meter. If anyone has ever used a volt meter before and put it on dc voltage have you ever noticed how the numbers bounce around. "phantom voltage" If you put in a resister to pull up or down it will edit your signal so that no good for your tune.

Now if the input wire is loose and there is no signal, the controller the controller is basically a volt meter will see phantom voltage . Since we can't use a resisters to pull "down" the voltage cause that's what way would go if we could. It has the possibility of making up a phantom reading that's high enough to be over the 5v threshold. This is why loose wires are bad. We do have dvc 30 controllers now for the past year that if the boost line is unhooked the system will not spray.

With hooking up the controllers to maf sensors. From what i have seen when i got a car by here. Why cycling the key threw the ignition. The power to the sensor is cut for a period of time that there is still power on the ignition. So our controllers can pulse since there is no signal hooked up. The other controller on the market that is a voltage input controller has a time delay to fix that. We don't' have a time delay because many customers hooks up our voltage controller directly to there aftermarket ecu and control them that way. Which if there was a delay it would not work.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 11:28 AM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by DevilsOwn View Post
We saying hooked up all wrong is a ittie harsh. Didn't really mean it like that. finkled got under my skin. As its apparent he just trying to instigate issues. Really just meant the wire was possibly loose. The maf can be used but i don't' feel its ideal.

I am sure most everyone knows we been selling these controllers for a few years now. There are a few speed3 running the voltage input 2.5 bar controllers these now with no issues. This car and all the figuring out the wiring bs was honestly the driving force in me twisting the arm of the guy who makes my controllers for me, into making the dvc30 with it built in map sensor. Which was a pita as he not open to what i want. Just what he wants to sell me. But that's another story. Remember i am just a tiny company trying to get things going.

Just to clear the air.
someone has posted up that he is 90% sure there is a pull up resistor in the kit. There is not a methanol injection kit that uses resistors to pull up the signal or even down. They are all going to be setup like a volt meter. If anyone has ever used a volt meter before and put it on dc voltage have you ever noticed how the numbers bounce around. "phantom voltage" If you put in a resister to pull up or down it will edit your signal so that no good for your tune.

Now if the input wire is loose and there is no signal, the controller the controller is basically a volt meter will see phantom voltage . Since we can't use a resisters to pull "down" the voltage cause that's what way would go if we could. It has the possibility of making up a phantom reading that's high enough to be over the 5v threshold. This is why loose wires are bad. We do have dvc 30 controllers now for the past year that if the boost line is unhooked the system will not spray.

With hooking up the controllers to maf sensors. From what i have seen when i got a car by here. Why cycling the key threw the ignition. The power to the sensor is cut for a period of time that there is still power on the ignition. So our controllers can pulse since there is no signal hooked up. The other controller on the market that is a voltage input controller has a time delay to fix that. We don't' have a time delay because many customers hooks up our voltage controller directly to there aftermarket ecu and control them that way. Which if there was a delay it would not work.
LOL! For chrissake man, instigate the fact that you had the wrong map wire in the directions? (other vendors not having directions is irrelevant, imo). I'd rather have no directions to work from than the wrong directions.

Yeah, I guess I am instigating then.

I have posted about 5 negative comments in the 1yr + I've been a member here, and the above was one of them.

I was so disgusted that I got a solenoid AND a check valve that didn't flow a drop of meth that I didn't even want to bother to call you.
(not to mention the members who bought your nozzle holder designed for the rubber / silicone joiners that doesn't work properly)

I'm sure you are on the right track now though, so I'm finished with the negativity and your meth kit.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 12:05 PM   #31
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With the check valve there is an arrow, that needs to point to the nozzle.
With the solenoid you hook one wire to power and one to ground. It does not matter which. Just hook both wires up.

Not sure what else i can do to make it easier to figure out?

I can make you up a video if need to help you figure it out which what the arrow points.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 02:41 PM   #32
 
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All I have to say is FUCK THAT SHOP!
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 Old 11-16-2011, 02:50 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by DevilsOwn View Post
With the check valve there is an arrow, that needs to point to the nozzle.
With the solenoid you hook one wire to power and one to ground. It does not matter which. Just hook both wires up.

Not sure what else i can do to make it easier to figure out?

I can make you up a video if need to help you figure it out which what the arrow points.
You really don't need to mock him or point out what is more than obvious. I am 100% sure that he is aware of how to properly install a check valve with gigantic arrows. He's helped me out with my meth installation and he knows his shit.

Don't get me wrong, I do like your product. But I was disappointed when the one direction you had in your website regarding the MAP wire to tap into was wrong. I almost selected the wrong wire if it wasn't for my "double checking" instance in these forums. I am talking about the gen2 installation, not gen1.

I don't think we need to lose another vendor like we did with cp-e. The fact that you guys take your time to come to the forums is great. But if I'm paying $300+ for a meth kit, I would hope it at least tells me which wire to tap into. I don't care for what the other companies do, I chose DO for a reason.

Carry on
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 Old 11-16-2011, 02:55 PM   #34
 
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Thanks adlpb.

Apparently Chance has as hard a time reading as he does writing.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 02:56 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Thanks adlpb.

Apparently Chance has as hard a time reading as he does writing.
lol finks getting snippy!
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 Old 11-16-2011, 03:28 PM   #36
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 Old 11-16-2011, 03:42 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by rfinkle2 View Post
Thanks adlpb.

Apparently Chance has as hard a time reading as he does writing.


o finkle, settle down.
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 Old 11-16-2011, 03:55 PM   #38
 
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I still plan on using devils own when its time to buy a meth kit. Most reasonable pricing I've seen.

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