+245 And Above
 

I understand we have the "Official Wheel Fitment" thread already established and cluttered to shit ;)

I am curious to see what everyone is running in terms of Suspension, wheel and tire setups for people running 245 and above. Feel free to post any extra info involving camber or the like.


Personally I am planning on running 255's on Corksport springs, this thread is just a gauge of how much my life will suck trying to fit them properly. :banana:


And how much work did you have to do to make it happen? Major roll? Pulling?

What width wheel are you putting them on, I know youre going to hate because fitment but I just put 18x9+30 on my car, and have a millimeter of clearance between the wheel and the strut, so...wider than that may be a challenge for you if youre on stock struts

@Stangcobra, I would hope those gram light wheels are functional ;)

235/40/18 on 18x8.5" +45 TSW Nurburgrings. I am lowered on RPM Street Springs (limited run?). I already had these tires in my garage, otherwise I would be running 245 series tires.

Picture in signature.

see sig. 255 wide tires

I was planning 17x9 Probably going to need +40 or a bit more I am thinking.

I'm okaying with a roll and cleaning any seams/tabs in the wheel well. I'd like to stay away from a pull..but if it's necessary.

And I'm running those Corksports on Bilstein Sports

17 or 18" ?

Our drops are similar, Corksport floats their drop number, I didn't drop nearly as much as they advertise.

What work did you have to do? As far as rolling, pulling, shaving.

You might be okay, My car isnt going to be running wide tires or anything but in terms of wheel width you should be just fine with a 17x9 and a roll
also not running gramlites anymore haha, rota g forces

Found a great calculator, good for comparing current clearances to future projects. Only it doesn't compensate for your aftermarket suspension, which is clear.

Custom rims, wheel tire packages for your ride - RIMSnTIRES.com


And their notes if I were to run a +40 offset:

-Package is 15 mm (0.6'') closer to suspension/brakes components. Acceptable for most cars.

-Package will stick out 25 mm (1'') farther. Make sure that you have enough room under the fender. If not, consider narrower tires or higher offset.


-Will fill out the wheelwell by extra 4 mm. Almost no difference

I'm assuming you're ms3 I just got 255 on 17x9 +45 offset. Stock suspension, but I haven't put them on yet. It will be fun though

18x8.5 +38 evo x enkeis with 245/40 tires. Stock suspension. Roll and pull was necessary (~1/4-1/2" of pull), ground down the bumper where I couldn't roll it and the tab where the bumper and fender meet. I don't hit the fenders at all but I will rub underneath because the stock suspension blows so much ass. No adjustable camber arms. A sway bar would be great to have too...I've rubbed all the way up a cloverleaf off ramp with this horrible suspension. 255s would be that much harder to work with.

If you're set on 17x9s I would suggest starting with a +45 or so and space them out as you find it necessary to get the proper clearance since you want them as far in as possible.

As far as the fronts not a single issue except for a little bit of rubbing at full lock, but I've never rubbed on a bump and I didn't need to roll the fenders at all.

The one thing I am trying to avoid is the use of a spacer, Not a huge fan of them. I understand that "most" people can get away with 8mm's worth, but I'd just like to get my offset dialed in without the aid of any spacer. It wouldn't be the end of the world if I needed to make up for a few MM's..but I'm not eager to venture there.

And my logic on 17x9 = More coverage for less monies.

I remember reading a thread about a guy doing 17x9s with 255s and ended up spacing out to +37. So that may be a place to start. May have been @driver311...I think I saw him all over that thread but I could be wrong.

You're not getting away without a pull, I guarantee that. And it won't be a minimal one.

I plan on getting out there asap and getting some 'my car specific' clearance measurements..as soon as this god damn rain ends..something I should have done a while ago.

Regardless, I'm still interested in hearing more stories :)

17". ET 45 plus 12mm spacers in front.
Shit load of rolling in the rear. Wheel arches bulge like a pregnant ghetto queen.

I am running 18x8.5 et 48 with 245/40s on stock suspension. I had to roll the rears.

I ran EVO X wheels with 245/40-18 and they rubbed like fuck, even after a roll, on stock suspension.

I now have 17x8 -45 with 245/45-17 and they rubbed, while rolled, on stock suspension.

Coil overs fixed the rub issue, as the rear doesn't compress as much.

I recently picked up a set of WedsSport TC105N in 17x9+49, which I plan to run 255/40-17 Nitto NT01.

I'll, most likely, need some spacers to move them out a bit.

I do plan on rolling and pulling a little more aggressively, since I have a fender roller now.

The best thing to do is replace the terrible stock suspension.

I dont want to go near as large as helmet. But i would like to avoid a pull and be able to run 235-40-18s was going to do rx-8 wheels but everyone has those, if anyone has any info on what you can run the above tire size on with just a roll and no pull i would be gratefull. not trying to jack your thread helmet, but i have tried to get than info from the ultimate will they fit and its almost impossible lol.

But back to your question. In the back i would for sure think you would need something. Ever think about just running smaller width tires in the back to avoid doing all the work back there as well. I dont know what the down side to this would be other than you couldn't do a proper rotation

I've been running this thru my head as well I set on running 255's with RPF1's in 18" on my MS6 but I might have to do a 18x9.5 et45 or 18x9 et38. I've been back and forth between wheel sizes it's crazy. I also have this Percy's wheelrite wheel and tire simulator in my garage so I think ima give it a shot and see what I come up with.

Ya I'm on Bilsteins+Corksports(see above ;) )

Maybe I'll just venture down to NJ and we can get all gay on our cars together; pulling, rolling...oo la la

No worries.

It's just that though, I need the rotate factor. I want to get the maximum I can out of these shoes and that means rotating when the fronts are too worn.

My plans are to go as wide as i can with just a roll. I will be on stock suspension for a while, first would be lowering springs, then maybe new shock/struts. But does anyone know what size rims you can run with stock 1" lower?

One day those plans might change if i go BT but for now that will work for me

Go 18/17x8/8.5 @ 235...245 if you want to get a little more risky. I've seen plenty of people pull it off.

What offset?

Wheel Offset Calculator

Plug in your current, plug in desired setup and compare the differences.

You'll going to be somewhere around +40et most likely.

I HAVE EVO 8 WHEELS WHICH ARE 17X8 +38 (for anyone that didn't know). I HAVE THE EIBACH PRO KIT AND STOCK STRUTS. I HAVE 245/45 NITTO 555R'S THE FRONT DOESN'T RUB AT ALL. THE REARS I HAVE 245/40 HANDKOOK V12S AND THE REAR RUBS A LITTLE. FENDERS ARE ROLLED.

Nice caps.

IT'S CAPS LOCK THURSDAY.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ursday-104644/

I don't support Chinkus stupidity, sorry.

IT'S CAP LOCKS THURSDAY

Edit: to slow...FAIL

So I'm going for the 255's


Looks like I'll be going with +42-45et..which will leave room if I need a minor spacer..

At +42et I'll be 17mm closer to the strut and stick out 23mm more than my current setup.

I'm game!

I'm running 18x8 et +48. 245/40 in front. When I go to 255's in the front I know i'll need a 5mm spacer to clear. 225/45 in the rear. Stock suspension no issues.

Just to clear a few things up. I'm running kosie 17x8 et45 with 255-45-17 tires dropped on h&r springs and get minimal rubbing in the rear. Got the wheels and tires for 300 bucks off Craigslist. Came with those tires but said fuck ill try them out see if they fit.

Sent from hell.

I clear the front struts just fine with 245/40s on 18x8.5s et48. I am 6.35mm closer to the strut than you.

255/45/17S...Holly Sidewall Batman! Those are almost like my winters...moonbounce tires!

I just know on my setup there is barely any room. I would say less then 10 mm from tire to strut. Maybe i have more room its been a while.

There aint much room...I'll try to get a pic

Came with brand spanking new hankook tires.. it rides great..

Sent from hell.

Man up and get 265s on those 17x9s. Note: The wheels were slightly turned to the left in this picture, they don't stick out as far as this looks.
http://theattack.rallysportdirect.co...1/DSC_3598.jpg

That is sexy, but do you drive in a straight line all the time? Hard to imagine turning without rubbing everywhere you go.

Just importantly, why do you need all of that?

It's my autocross setup and since I raised the lower spring perch and got rid of the spacer, no rubbing even on the hardest tight turn. Just insane amounts of grip http://www.supraforums.com/forum/ima...lies/drool.gif

the car is actually raced (autox) half of the people here like to TALK about driving their performance cars.

How do you like the effect on gearing with the 265's?

Found these on another Mazda site. Can't remember which one but they are 18x9.5 et42 wrapped in 275/35 Only on the right side of the car that's why its leaning.
Attachment 61530Attachment 61531Attachment 61532Attachment 61533Attachment 61534Attachment 61535Attachment 61536Attachment 61537Attachment 61538

I run 245/40r17's on 17x8's. Wheels are +50 but I run 5MM spacers. Suspension is Koni Yellow with Swift Spec-r's. Rear fenders are currently rolled and I don't have any issues.

245/35r18 s-Drives on a 18x9.5 +30 offset rim.

H&R Springs, and a JBR RSB on stiffest setting.

Rear Fenders Rolled thanks to @rgz :smileysex5:

Change of setup...

I'm now lowered on eibach springs with koni yellows (one full turn stiff in the back, a little more than 1 turn in front). Rears were pulled more, cracking the paint on the drivers side, and I still rub, even slightly more than stock. Rear sway is even more necessary now but that should be on tomorrow. Fronts rub under hard turning.

Overall I'm a little disappointed with the wheels only because of the rubbing. I'm considering dropping to 235/40 tires next time around, or just pulling the shit out of the fenders and touching up the paint once that's all done. I will be racing this car so I want to keep the wide tires...we'll see where I go with it. It's also my daily so ride comfort is very important.

Pain in the ass wheels....Anyone want some evo's?

paint cracking? is that from the fender rolling? (you not use heat gun to heat up fenders and paint) :crazy:

It is. I used a heat gun when I rolled them flat and did the first pull and all was fine, but when I worked on them a second time (without an actual roller) it cracked. It sucks, but this isn't a show car and paint can be fixed.

ah gotcha.

What specs are you running currently? As far as tires and wheels..

Yellows plus eibach sounds like some serious lows, and even more so I'm sure those Eibachs drop alot in turns.

18x8.5 +38 with 245/40 tires. The drop is more than I wanted but I got the springs free. I"m thinking about trying stock springs on all 4 corners to see if that at least solves the rubbing. If not, I may order some cobbs in the near future...minimal drop and stiffer springs. If that doesn't work I'm selling everything and torching the car.

Lol sorry to hear about you troubles. I wonder how similar mine will be..

If stock springs solve the issue and youre having troubles finding cobbs im loving my corksports and the drop is similar in not being aggressive.

Good luck homie

I was actually going to ask you about the actual drop with the corksports was. The supposed drop is way too aggressive for me, but even the cobbs are rated at 1" all around but only go about .25" in the rear from what I hear. The problem with the eibachs, I think, is not necessarily the drop but the softness. I get the feeling that they're stiffer than stockers, but not by very much.

Overall it's just frustrating, but not impossible to figure out. The big thing is that I don't want to spend much more money on this issue. Once I'm employed I'm thinking of selling the evos and picking up a set of milligrams for the greater offset, but I really dont' want to go through the trouble for an extra 7mm inset. Hopefully the stock springs will hold me over until I know exactly what I'm going to do.

On the plus side though, the car currently looks fantastic lowered.

@helmetfail

I should have quoted or mentioned you earlier. What's your actual drop with the CS springs? Is it the full 1"+ as advertised?

From memory the advertised drop is rated at 1.2" in the front and 1.0" in the rear. However i dont think i dropped a full inch on either.

The spring rates between these and Eibachs are probably a substantial difference, they are a rough ride but quite firm indeed.

I would suggest them to a friend but not a friend that totes around kids, get my drift?

Keep in mind im on bilsteins

I run 17x9 +45 RPF01s with 245/40R17 AD08s. Just had to run a 5mm spacer up front and have 5mm of room between tyre and strut! Planning on getting 255s next once the AD08s have gone to shit. :)

I think I'm going to order the cobbs then. For now my OEMs are going back on the rears only (supposedly stiffer than the eibachs...I can't find any reliable info on eibach spring rates) and soon I'll order some new springs. Reportedly the cobbs give ~1/2" up front and almost nothing out back, but they're pretty stiff. I don't carry small children and my girlfriend can deal with it or leave...whichever is fine with me. Plus I can adjust the damping on the konis except that it's completely trial and error with the rears and you have to pull them to change it...

Final update for now...

Got my JBR rear sway in and put it on today. Cornering is very tight now and control seems better overall. I also put my OEM springs back in, so it's time to get into it...

I pulled the eibachs from the rear and compared them to the OEMs out of the car. The length is nearly identical, but since teh drop is so much from the eibachs it means that they're quite a bit softer than stock. This is a horrible property for a drop spring and was the main cause of all the rubbing. With the stock springs back in the rear the ride is better with the new shocks than it was with konis and eibachs, the car is completely leveled and looks amazing now (eibachs still in front) and the rubbing over a few bumps that used to cause me problems is gone. I'm still considering cobbs at some point but I"m tired of spending money on this and I'm very, very happy with the ride and handling overall. If I start to auto-x I'll upgrade the springs definitely but for now I'm content. Finally.