I can only think of three reasons for excessive inner tire wear: too much negative camber, too much toe out, or too high tire pressure. Looks like you have all those covered Lex. Must be the tires.


Tapadatass

No strange wear and I'm running Hankook Ventus V12 EVO's.

This is where the plot thickens. I found a local set of OEM Dunlops that are literally new that I am tempted to pick up to replace the current ones. I got one summer out of these tires (albeit I did need an alignment for a few k miles there) - but in any case I'd like 2 summers out of the tires.

Funny thing is that a lot of Gen2 people are having this tire wear issue along with regular Mazda5 and Mazda3 people overseas where the cars came with the same Dunlop 2050s. Something's fishy here.

Very interesting and yes I know that deal for those tires.
Thought about getting them myself.

Tire pressure might be the issue. Here's how the premature inner wear went on my 2050's. For the first 10k miles I was really religious keeping the pressures at 35/34 and saw no uneven wear at rotations. At 10k was when I got lax and checked pressures less frequently and let them run down to 33/32 before I added air. At 15k I first noticed the excessive inner wear. At 18k they looked unsafe and that's when I replaced them. I'm on BFG comp-2's now and keeping the tires at 35/34. So far at 5k tire wear is even. Tread depth is down to 8/32 from 10/32 so I know they aren't the longest wearing tires but hopefully they wear even this time. I'm thinking that letting the pressure get low on the 2050's contributes to their demise. The 2050's inner sidewall isn't that stiff so you wind up riding the inner edge of the tread and kill it prematurely with low pressure.

I am religious about keeping my tire pressure above 34lbs. Generally 35-37lbs. I check them often since the TPMS won't let me know they need more air since limit is below 30 (I think 28 or so). I like the stiffer sidewall I get from the higher pressure. Same front very inside edge wear issues since I bought my car new off the lot.

If anything, too high a pressure would lead to abnormal quick wear in the center of the tread patch which would lead me to believe there should be less load on the outside edges so I'm not sure how this could be anything else besides toe issues. Even excess neg camber in the front would wear the inside tread patch more but I am getting wear only about a half inch wide and farther to where sidewall stops and the tread begins. Pics earlier in this thread are just like mine.

what I don't get.. is that you don't check your tire wear & pressure on the regular??!!?. at least once every month or so...

that's what I do.. I know my car is lowered.. I know my camber is off... not checking is just dumb.

Sh*t happens.. stuff breaks.. things don't line up... the more aware you are of the shoes on your car, the safer you will be.

----------
my last set of tires Yokohama Avid Envigor's
supposed to last 60k - only made it for about 23k.. camber wear killed them.
if I just assumed they would make it to 60k.. I'd be dead in a ditch.. from a blow out while speeding.

always check.

Factory suspension and stock dunlops on a 2012 speed3 wear excessively for about a 1'' band around the inner treads on the front, passenger side is the worst. I was worried I was the only one... I have 16k on mine and been challenging the 2/3 to retard service department at my local dealer since the first rotation at 5k, that the camber or toe settings are just not right regardless of the "spec" provided by the MFG. Finally had them agree to "zero out" the settings as best as possible and luckily I too keep a check on tire pressure and wear 1-2 times per month so I have another rotation round before I need new tires. Dependent upon the outcome with zeroed settings over the next 5k, I might ask them to adjust to front camber the positive side slightly on my new set since this turned from a fun ride into my primary ride unexpectedly. Question though, I thought only the rear had no factory camber adjustment?

Still bugs me that obviously it is set too aggressive from the factory for a DD and instead of fixing the problem they just say "well this is an enthusiast car and the summer tires just tend to wear a little quicker, we see this a lot".

Neither front or rear camber is technically adjustable on the MS3.

A little bit of "wiggle room" is available in the front upper strut mount bolt hole slop though...

I had this issue with my dunflops as well. Got an alignment before i ran my summer wheels and still have this band of wear.

Im running 1.5 degrees of camber which shouldn't be a problem.

I wonder if there is dynamic camber and castor issues, that would cause wear as bad as that.

I have this same issue with my car, it tore up my stock tires, I lowered the car, bought new tires and took it in for 4 wheel alignment(the tech told me it "wasn't to bad" and a year later same issue, tires are shot by 20K miles and it's the front that is wearing about a 1/2 inch to maybe an inch wide on the inner side of the tire.

Although alignment print outs seem wonderful it is not hard to tap a tire to get it to read correct while its on the rack. I don't know if it's possible on all machines but I suspect it is. Alignment could be off tap the tire a hair and boom it's within spec. This will only work for toe obviously.

Good Afternoon,

I bought my speed3 in June of last year. I currently have 15,000 miles on the car and my inner tire wear is massive. I took it to a local place to get it realigned, with the specs of 0 toe front and 1/16 inner toe rear. I took it home yesterday and my stearing wheel is off by about an inch or inch and a half. I called them today and asked about this and they said to bring it back in. They called and said with this current setup there is not much they can do with this. Has any one else ran into this? My specs are from the last alignment.

Left Front
Camber -0.7
Caster .....
Toe -0.01

Right Front
Camber -1.1
Caster ....
Toe 0.00

Left Rear
Camber -1.8
Toe 0.09

Right Rear
Camber -1.8
Toe 0.08

Do these numbers look ok? Or should I take it some place else?
(edit)
And Im sorry I should have said its a 2012. I didn't want to make another thread over this issue.

If they can't figure out how to center the steering wheel, you need to find a better alignment shop, IMO. :rolleyes:

Your Right rear toe adjustment is out of spec which in turn means your cross toe is out of spec which can cause increased wear. Without the front camber it indicates that they didn't properly align the alignment heads. While this can give you toe and camber its not as accurate as taking the extra 2 minutes to set up the heads correctly.

I would request my money back and find a better shop.

Thanks guys for the replies. I got the car back a few minutes ago. It seems that they fixed the stearing wheel issue.

When I get back from Pensacola I'll be putting new tires on this and might just go back to the default setup.

Let me know the printout and we can see if they did it properly.

Crap! I didn't ask for a print out this last time. I'm not sure they adjusted any thing except the stearing wheel.

ALWAYS ask for the print out.

I went to a shop one time that said their printer was broke when I asked for the printout. So I asked if they could at least write what they got on a piece of paper. Gave me the run around for that to and said to late the screen was already closed. I was pissed.

I wouldn't have paid.
To me, the printout is like the receipt.

I am going to have a shop do an alignment on my car tomorrow. I am on my 6th set of tires in 100k on my ms6.:hitwithrock:

What do i ask for? Get my toe as close to 0 as possible and my Camber as close as possible to -1.5?:34:

As long as it is within the set parameters you will be fine. As little camber as possible will help with more even tire wear.

Whaaaat????
 

Just got back from Discount Tire to do a tire rotation/balance and they told me they would not be able to do it because my front tires have inner tire wear. According to the rep, he has seen this numerous times w/the MS3 and after about 20k miles I have to replace the tires or risk a blow out. What!?!?! Mind you I bought my 2011 MS3 brand new and it currently has 26k miles. This sounds like a manufacturer defect to me. I am filing a complaint against Mazda with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and suggest everyone that is experiencing this problem do the same. According to the website:
Motor Vehicle Defects and Safety Recalls: What Every Vehicle Owner Should Know | Safercar.gov | NHTSA , if the agency receives similar reports from a number of people about the same product, a safety-related defect may exist and would warrant the opening of an investigation for recall. I'm not paying $600 every 20k miles because of an obvious safety issue that should be handled by the manufacturer. What do you guys think???

Welcome to the club. Mine lasted 12k miles.

I think your a tard..... performance oriented cars on summer tires typically only go 20-25k miles between tires. Get a good alignment and you MIGHT see 30k depending on the tires. Its not a safety related defect, its just an aggressive alignment.

:dance: :dance: :dance:

I was tempted to "thank" you and "groan" you simultaneously, so I'm writing instead.

Performance-oriented cars on summer tires are going to eat through the tires fairly quickly due to more performance-oriented alignment specs. That having been said, with a good alignment, aimed more with an eye to tire-longevity, it's possible to get well into the 40k mile range before having to swap tires out due to wear. This, of course, assumes relatively sedate driving (mostly highway cruising, etc.), and not a whole lot of hard cornering or wheel-spinning shenanigans.

I've got an MS6, so I have different alignment issues to watch out for, but I saw 42k miles on my first set of tires (RE960AS - 225/40/18), and have seen an additional 20k on my current all-season tires (Conti DWS - 225/45/18) with minimal noticeable wear.

On my summer tires though...(RE040 - 225/45/18), I'll be lucky to see 15k, since I drive them harder.

Basically, it's all about 1. how your car is aligned, and 2. how you drive. If you're planning on filing a claim with the NHTSA, then you should learn how to drive first @Samguzma;.

You guys can eat a d...!

:261:

I personally think that you have no clue about the car you've got or cars in general. If I were you I'd file a complaint with the NHTSA about some products in a grocery store as well and whine about some cheese going bad in the trunk in a 100F day. It happened in the car, so it must be the car's fault.
Good luck with your complaint.

P.S.: these cars have an aggressive alignment to give them both traction and cornering stability. If you drive them slowly/normally it's perfectly normal, read PERFECTLY NORMAL, to see inner tire wear. And as a daily driven car it's expected to drive them normally and see a bit more inner wear. If you push your car hard in tight corners or even high speed bends you will see outer shoulder wear as well, and in this case the wear will be more even. I'm not saying you should drive the car hard every day or for no reason and endanger yourself and others in traffic, I'm just explaining to you how things work in a sports car with McPherson/single arm suspension (things are a bit different with cars having double wishbone suspension such as the MS6 by example).

The tires you note that are getting 40k+ are both all seasons. On a summer tire, as you noticed, you wont be able to go as far. On the ms3 a lot of it is due to toe settings along with the aggressive camber of up to -2.9 degress. If you go towards the more conservative end of the factory alignment specs you *might* see 30k on a summer tire. If you go with a summer that has a higher treadwear rating you will give up some traction but it may then be possible to make it to the 30-35k range.

True summer tires dont last. Look at one of the leading summer tires, the NT-05. Your lucky if you can get them to 15-20k miles.

I guess you're right I dont know a whole lot about my car... I have better things to do with my time then to jerk off to postings by El Diablo, Vanquish, and you other nerds.

^ :hitwithrock:

premature inner tire wear checking in.

pass front is down to the cords, glad I was poking around and saw it, otherwise i would've thought "i've got another 5-6k before I need a new set."

the irony is, i'm going through the car so i can get ready to sell it, and now i've got to dump money into it for new tires. FML.

Ok, so as a conclusion, especially if the car is lowered and/or is running wider tires than stock we should adjust the camber a bit to widen the contact patch. This should improve both handling and traction, and make the tire wear happen more evenly across the entire surface of the tire.

As far as I know too camber can't be adjusted, so we need camber arms (Eibach/SPC/JBR/Whatever).

I've said it before, but I'll say it again:

I have absolutely no weird wear issues with a proper alignment, and mine's even a bit on the "aggressive" side of the spectrum (for not using camber plates, that is)...

:dunno:

That said, I don't get a lot of mileage out of my tires. I'm also not using tires with a lot of treadlife to begin with, but I'd be happy to get ~15K and a few trackdays/autocrosses out of a set. Lol.

Go fuck yourself you dumb brownie faggot!


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Just did...

Brownie faggot, oooo cant wait till I grow up to be a VIP Member.
Why don't you check the inner wear on your ass cheeks?

Just forget about logging on to this site or stop the bullshit before things get bad for you.

You won't make it that long to even donate before we send your stupid ass out of here crying like a little bitch.


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