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As for you Godspeed, I have gained nothing from this forum. Kick me off, I really don't give a fluck! Oh, you can eat a d.... too. I'm done wasting my time here. | |
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@CWP_MS3; @Raider;
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What YOU fail to realize is your post was very "matter of fact" and your issues and suggestions have already been addressed by many other members. Stop being butthurt, take your newbie ball busting like a man, shut your mouth, and read. By not doing so, you are missing out on a vast network of knowledge and connections. You think you are the only one who has been hazed? Fuck, my first week here not only did I get warned and busted on, so did my wife. You aren't special and we haven't treated you any differently than anyone else. The difference is, you obviously can't take it. EDIT* going back and re-reading the posts, you absolutely over reacted and in fact you were given some incredible information about how to get 40k miles out of tires. Also we're told that it is normal problem for the shitty stock tires we have. All because someone called you a tard you tell us to eat a dick?!?! Grow up man and get off your high horse. Normally I would eat you for breakfast for making your smart ass comments but I am trying to show you that you made a mistake and you might be able to save yourself. The choice is yours... Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well, to try and get this thread back on topic: 2008 MS3 w/ 61k miles, stock suspension. Owned since March '13. I just noticed yesterday that my inner front tires are wearing down significantly more than the outsides. Rear tires are fine. All 4 tires only have a little less than 5k on them, and the front insides are approaching bald, while the outsides have plenty of tread on them. Just doesn't seem right. They are Cooper Zenon ZPT's (which don't have the best reviews, but it's what the dealership put on the car) Now, I haven't gotten an alignment done, yet. But, from reading through this thread, I had some questions. One suggestion was to have the shop set the toe to 0. But another post suggested that the alignment was set aggressively stock to handle better. So, if i have an alignment shop align the car for better tire wear, am i sacrificing performance/handling? And, is this tire wear problem a little worse because of the tires i'm running? Would a better tire wear more even? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score First of all, you should have your current alignment read first if possible to find out where it currently sits. That will give you a good baseline and perhaps alert you to issues that may exist with your hardware (your car is old enough for worn bushings/balljoints to be a real possibility) that will make any alignment performed rather useless before addressing. To answer your question: The "factory alignment" is widely varied and has an abhorrently large tolerance range, IMO. When referring to the "factory camber settings" they are NOT necessarily set "to make the car handle optimally" - they are set to make the car understeer at the limit for safety's sake. I run zero rear toe and 1/16" total toe out on the front of my car and I have no issues with tire wear. I currently have -1.4° camber in the front and -1.1° camber in the rear, and my front caster is (if I recall correctly,) +4.5° on both sides.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i know this has been an ongoing thread with many people asking questions, but what would cause the inner part of my tire to rub on the strut? im running stock suspension, stock rims and 215/45 hankook v12's. is that a severely worn bushing? ball joint? or can it be as easy as a totally jacked up alignment? car drives straight without any noticeable issues related to poor alignment. but then again, i am a relative newb. i am looking at running some 225/45's next and dont want to ruin a set of brand new tires. especially since the larger size will be that much closer to the strut |
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A simple search may help too, learn to do search https://www.google.com/search?q=site...ient=firefox-a
__________________ Past 2012 Speed3. GT3071r // Manley rods // Wiseco pistons // some other goodies and some Nator love ![]() Present 2014 Chevy Silverado Z71 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok thanks guys. I'll have an alignment shop take a look. Here what the issue has caused: You can see where it has rubbed on the strut where to end of the coil is ![]() And the tire ![]() Glad I caught it now. That's for sure. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That's not from rubbing on your strut. The position of your tire/and wheel relative to the strut and spring perch does not change (outside of a *very slight* amount due to "wheel flex").
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am going to agree here considering this is exactly what my stock tires looked like when I pulled them off. Found out from some very smart people (you and dan) this is a toe issue.
__________________ 2012 Mazdaspeed3 Black Mica HYPNOTIC TUNED, FREEK TUNED, HTP full 3" intake/TIP, HKS SSQV 4 full VTA, Corksport catless downpipe, Corksport catless Racepipe, Cobb AP V3, Autotech Fuel Pump Internals, JBR 88duro RMM, JBR 88duro TMM, JBR 80duro PMM, JBR cylindrical shift knob, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, EBC green brake pads, Centric high carbon rotors, Nitto NT555 tires, Gorilla spline lug nuts, DDM tuning HID's lows, Resonator Delete. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have nothing to say but thanks guys, there's a lot of great info here. I noticed some insane front inner wear on my summer tires when I swapped to winters on Sunday. I've put the car away for the week and booked in to get an alignment done on Saturday. The weird thing is, it seems like inner tire wear wasn't a problem until this summer. I bought the car with 40,000km(32000miles?) last July on OE bridgestones (the last owner had winters as well). The tires wore even last year until I put winters on in Nov. March this year, I took my winters off and put the OE summers on and drove on. Ran into a couple issues with the rear sway bar but nothing wrong with the front. Nothing told me why it decided to wear down the insides in around 10,000 km. Granted the tires were on its last legs, but still.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Alignment specs change over time with bumps and potholes ect. This is why you must re-align the car every so often. IMO the minimum should be atleast once a year.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If your car is properly aligned "adjustment hardware-wise" then the only thing that alters your alignment over time (aside from impacts that bend metal) is bushing wear. The adjustment hardware itself should stay put. I just wanted to make that distinction.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I haven't done an alignment yet...20k miles stock DUNFLOPS Yes, I'm slacking
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey, let me start with sorry im a noob to forums and ms3's. Anyways, just bought a 2007 ms3 and it came lowered. I haven't taken in for an alignment yet, but looking at it by eye it seems like shes got a bit much negative camber. Since its dropped pretty low, ive been trying to find a front end camber kit to install, but I can only find kits for the rear end. I know I can slot the strut mounts for a little extra adjustment, but that seems like a haggard ass way of going about it. Anybody have any suggestions? I just don't want to be putting a new set of low pros on every year |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How about getting an alignment first. I doubt that you have a significant amount of negative camber in the front. If you do, then I would suggest investigating how your car was lowered as well, check for some frame damage. You should however get rear camber arms (SPC, Eibach etc). Negative camber isn't the only reason you could get inner tire wear. Having the front toe incorrectly adjusted could also cause irregular wear patterns.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Alright man, like I said im not real familiar with the car. Dealership I bought it from said the insides were worn bad when they got it and I figured it was from lowering it and riding with misalignment. I was already planning on getting the rear end, just wanted to see if and what I need for the front end. Thanks though man, just trying to make sure she rides good before I start investing in the engine. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Definitely invest in the fundamentals. I would check if you're simply running lowering springs on stock struts/shocks. If so, then start saving up for upgraded struts/shocks as the stock ones are shit and wear out really fast with lowered springs. Following that, your best investment before you spend any money on engine, is to get VIP membership here. It'll save you a ton right off the bat.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mica Mazdaspeed 3. BNR s3, CoolingMist CMGS Meth, Damond TB Plate, JBR FMIC Undermount w/ TR8, JBR 3" Fullpath, Steedspeed EM, Cobb AP v3, Stratified Tuned, Autotech HPFP Internals, CP-e Catted Downpipe, Port and Polished IM with VTCS & Full EGR Delete, Grimmspeed EBCS, 3 BAR MAP Sensor, Turbosmart Dual-port BPV, Koni Sport Yellows, Eibach Prokits, SPC Camber Arms, Cobb FSB and RSB, AWR Front Endlinks, JBR Trilogy Mounts 70a Duro, KX-F3 Full Chassis Braces, Denso Iridium ITV-22, CP-e Safe Seals, SURE TIG IM and TB, Cobb Shift Weight, TWM SS w/Bushings and Specter Hybrid knob. To be installed: SS Brake Lines. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i'm about to get my first alignment ever this spring LOL (62k and 4 years) my tires don't have any crazy pre-mature tire wear on the inside (Other than the norm) and the car tracks straight so i just ran it. Although i do run the car hard on corners so the tires get shot in 20k regardless.
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| Untitled document | This thread | Refback | 01-06-2015 04:23 AM | |
| REALLY uneven tire wear .... cause ? | This thread | Refback | 10-18-2013 08:42 PM | |
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