register gallery
 

Go Back   Mazdaspeed Forums >
MAZDASPEED SECTION
>
Mazdaspeed 3/6 MZR Gen1 Forums (2006-2009)
> MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Wheels & Tires

MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Wheels & Tires HaveMazdaSpeed 3 - Wheels & Tires - Have a question about wheels or tires? Need a calculator to figure out offsets? We have them in here


Welcome to Mazdaspeed Forums .

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

*When you join MSF as a registered user, there will be No Ads.

*Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum

*Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements.

*Registered members also get access to the live chat box!
Like Tree7Likes
  • 1 Post By wyeto
  • 1 Post By Jansi
  • 5 Post By mituc
Reply
 
Bookmark and Share LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 Old 10-09-2014, 12:42 PM   #1
 
wyeto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 465   (View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0
wyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the world
Thanks: 83
Thanked 136 Times in 99 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default switching from 215 to 235 or 245 worth my time?

I bought my speed 3 back in March and it came with basically brand spankin new michelin pilot sport a/s3 on the stockers in a 215 45 18. I went ahead and bought some oz ultralaggera's (18x8 in +42 I think) and had them switch those bad boys on.

As the mods have slowly racked up I as I'm sure a lot of others have been thinking "I would love MOAR TRACTION!"

I got a job at a tire and auto care shop about 4 months ago so I have access to slightly discounted tires as well as free mounting obviously. So now I'm playing with the idea of throwing either some 235 40's or 245 40's on my 18x8's and selling the michelins. My coworkers are telling me its not worth it as far as traction goes but I'm thinking it might be and wondering what others have had experience with.

I mean obviously it will have more traction if I go wider but is it worth all the trouble of buying new tires and selling old ones? I want to get in to auto cross but the car is just primarily a dd that I drive on the twisties a lot.

I dont care if I have to roll fenders or if it throws my spedo off just looking for better handling all around. Thanks for the input guys
08Spe3d likes this.
wyeto is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-09-2014, 12:47 PM   #2
 
BlackFlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Saint Simons Island, GA
Posts: 596   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
BlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the world
Thanks: 313
Thanked 394 Times in 206 Posts
Groans: 20
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I would go 245's. Fuck your coworkers, they know nothing.
Keep the stockers and 215s for when you burn out your rs3v2's and are saving cash.
__________________
Slow for now...

Cobb ApV3///Cobb SRI+TIP///JBR Solid Shift Bushings///JBR 88 RMM///JBR SSP///
JBR Shift Knob///Cobb EBCM///MSR 045 18x8 +35///Nitto Nt05 235/40/18///CS Batt Box///CS Catted DP///ITV22's///Autotech Internals///TR8 FMIC///Koni FSD's/// CS springs
Freek Tuning Meow
BlackFlag is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BlackFlag For This Useful Post:
Code Monkey (10-12-2014), Easter Bunny (10-09-2014)
 Old 10-09-2014, 12:49 PM   #3
 
[R]usty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,204   (View Stats)
iTrader: (18)
Rep Power: 0
[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world[R]usty is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,205
Thanked 2,250 Times in 820 Posts
Groans: 79
Groaned at 14 Times in 13 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

lol your coworker sounds like a smart fellow. Of course 235 or 245 will give you more traction. 245's will probably rub without spacers but either will be a large improvement over 215's.
__________________
2010 Mazdaspeed3 w/tech

Cobb AP V3JBR Tru 3" Wide PathJBR Boost Tubes & BPV HoseCobb XLE BPVCP-E TMIC ║ UR Racepipe ║ Magnaflow CBEAutoTech InternalsGrimmSpeed EBCS ║ JBR RSBSPC Camber ArmsKW V3 CoiloversJBR IM+TB TIGs & TB BypassJBR SSPE - Focus RMMStopTech Slotted Rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff PadsTechna-Fit SS Brake Lines

[R]usty is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to [R]usty For This Useful Post:
Easter Bunny (10-09-2014)
 Old 10-09-2014, 12:51 PM   #4
 
ekklesia_ms3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 402   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
ekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the worldekklesia_ms3 is the leader of the world
Thanks: 792
Thanked 226 Times in 120 Posts
Groans: 5
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I would drive it on the 215s until you're due for tires, then go wider.
__________________
'10 Anthracite Grey MS3
BNR s3 | HTP 3" Intake | ETS TMIC | TurboXS BPV | AT FP Internals | eBay Test Pipe | Muffler Delete
Koni Oranges | H&R Springs | JBR 80d RMM | JBR .125 RSB





ekklesia_ms3 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ekklesia_ms3 For This Useful Post:
Easter Bunny (12-25-2014)
 Old 10-09-2014, 12:54 PM   #5
 
BlackFlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Saint Simons Island, GA
Posts: 596   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
BlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the world
Thanks: 313
Thanked 394 Times in 206 Posts
Groans: 20
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

I get the same response from a tire shop when i ask for specific tires. "Thats not going to do much, Tires aren't going to make a car a corvette." Stupid fucks.
__________________
Slow for now...

Cobb ApV3///Cobb SRI+TIP///JBR Solid Shift Bushings///JBR 88 RMM///JBR SSP///
JBR Shift Knob///Cobb EBCM///MSR 045 18x8 +35///Nitto Nt05 235/40/18///CS Batt Box///CS Catted DP///ITV22's///Autotech Internals///TR8 FMIC///Koni FSD's/// CS springs
Freek Tuning Meow
BlackFlag is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:07 PM   #6
 
anavrinIV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 4,490   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0
anavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the worldanavrinIV is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,624
Thanked 4,458 Times in 1,982 Posts
Groans: 63
Groaned at 43 Times in 22 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

to get better traction you need tires at least as sticky as your current ones. There's no point in going wider if you sacrifice tire quality in the process.
__________________
Blue Pu.


"Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you."
anavrinIV is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to anavrinIV For This Useful Post:
BlackFlag (10-09-2014), chaser27 (10-12-2014), Easter Bunny (10-09-2014), magicka (10-10-2014), NoRegrets (10-11-2014)
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:09 PM   #7
 
BlackFlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Saint Simons Island, GA
Posts: 596   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
BlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the world
Thanks: 313
Thanked 394 Times in 206 Posts
Groans: 20
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Although I thought this was understood to anyone looking for traction, I will agree with your post.
__________________
Slow for now...

Cobb ApV3///Cobb SRI+TIP///JBR Solid Shift Bushings///JBR 88 RMM///JBR SSP///
JBR Shift Knob///Cobb EBCM///MSR 045 18x8 +35///Nitto Nt05 235/40/18///CS Batt Box///CS Catted DP///ITV22's///Autotech Internals///TR8 FMIC///Koni FSD's/// CS springs
Freek Tuning Meow
BlackFlag is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:13 PM   #8
 
Spec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,472   (View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0
Spec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,823
Thanked 4,945 Times in 2,142 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 35 Times in 30 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Do eeet!
__________________
Spec is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Spec For This Useful Post:
chaser27 (10-12-2014)
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:14 PM   #9
 
wyeto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 465   (View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0
wyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the world
Thanks: 83
Thanked 136 Times in 99 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

yeah I'm thinking I might as well go for it. The stretch looks sexy but traction slipping isnt so I'll start saving up... great something else I can throw my cash into.. lolz

It doesnt rain much here in Nor Cal #droughtlife and I never go to the snow. Any tire recomendations? I have been looking at dunlop star specs zII, bridgestone re-11's or something more cost friendly like continental dw or even another set of a/s3's.

Will I need spacers for 235 or 245's? I'm on koni yellow's and h&r's. with the +42 I dont know how close that would put me to the strut tower with more meat on them wheels
wyeto is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:16 PM   #10
 
BlackFlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Saint Simons Island, GA
Posts: 596   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
BlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the worldBlackFlag is the leader of the world
Thanks: 313
Thanked 394 Times in 206 Posts
Groans: 20
Groaned at 3 Times in 3 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by Spec View Post
Do eeet!
I needz dis!

Hankook RS3 V2'S. Nothing less
__________________
Slow for now...

Cobb ApV3///Cobb SRI+TIP///JBR Solid Shift Bushings///JBR 88 RMM///JBR SSP///
JBR Shift Knob///Cobb EBCM///MSR 045 18x8 +35///Nitto Nt05 235/40/18///CS Batt Box///CS Catted DP///ITV22's///Autotech Internals///TR8 FMIC///Koni FSD's/// CS springs
Freek Tuning Meow

Last edited by BlackFlag; 10-11-2014 at 02:48 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
BlackFlag is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to BlackFlag For This Useful Post:
Spec (10-09-2014)
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:16 PM   #11
 
Spec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,472   (View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0
Spec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,823
Thanked 4,945 Times in 2,142 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 35 Times in 30 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by wyeto View Post
yeah I'm thinking I might as well go for it. The stretch looks sexy but traction slipping isnt so I'll start saving up... great something else I can throw my cash into.. lolz

It doesnt rain much here in Nor Cal #droughtlife and I never go to the snow. Any tire recomendations? I have been looking at dunlop star specs zII, bridgestone re-11's or something more cost friendly like continental dw or even another set of a/s3's.

Will I need spacers for 235 or 245's? I'm on koni yellow's and h&r's. with the +42 I dont know how close that would put me to the strut tower with more meat on them wheels
Gen done or win?
__________________
Spec is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-09-2014, 01:17 PM   #12
 
wyeto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 465   (View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0
wyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the world
Thanks: 83
Thanked 136 Times in 99 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

@[R]usty
Ya I loled at him when he told me that.
btw loving the avatar that isnt you is it? you guys down south have been getting some nice south swells. waves havent been bad up in Santa Cruz either.

Gen Juan

Last edited by wyeto; 10-09-2014 at 01:17 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
wyeto is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-09-2014, 02:50 PM   #13
 
EvoFire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 389   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
EvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the worldEvoFire is the leader of the world
Thanks: 155
Thanked 124 Times in 88 Posts
Groans: 3
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Tire compound goes a long way more than width does.

Get some Nitto NT-05 if you don't ever really see any adverse weather.
__________________
2009 CWP MS3 | JBR short shift plate, JBR shifter bushings, CP-e stage 2 RMM, JBR RSB, JBR Wide-Path, CS downpipe, UR catted test pipe, Cobb cat-back, Forge BPV V1, Swift Spec R springs, Bilstein B8, Whiteline KCA428 ALK, Whiteline Bumpsteer Correction, Corksport injector seals, Weds Sports SA55M 18x8 +48, Bridgestone S-04 245/40/18, BLOX Limited 490g shiftknob

Dyno'ed at 277whp/290lb-ft on 91 piss
EvoFire is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to EvoFire For This Useful Post:
magicka (10-10-2014)
 Old 10-11-2014, 02:39 PM   #14
 
mps606's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 54   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 21
Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

The Z2s and re11s are both some of the most competitive tires for autox. My buddy has a miata with re11s and it grips phenomenally. I've seen a stock corvette c5 clean up at autox with just Z2s. I would definitely go with summers if you want to dominate at autox.
mps606 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-11-2014, 03:16 PM   #15
 
shamie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: SLC, Utah
Posts: 944   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0
shamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the worldshamie is the leader of the world
Thanks: 15
Thanked 502 Times in 290 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 4 Times in 4 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by wyeto View Post
Will I need spacers for 235 or 245's? I'm on koni yellow's and h&r's. with the +42 I dont know how close that would put me to the strut tower with more meat on them wheels
I don't know why everyone talks spacers. You will need to roll your rears a little with 235s and a lot with 245s - unless you don't mind shredding your new tires.
__________________
2009 MGM MS3 - / HTP 3"/ COBB AP, FMIC, RMM, & DP / AT Internals / Manley Rods & Pistons / ARP studs & bolts / Koyorad radiator / DM OCCs / ACT Clutch / Bilstein B16 / CS Camber Plates, Camber Arms, & Seals / JBR .125 RSB, BSD, 51R Battery Box & Raider's AD / StopTech Brakes
shamie is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-11-2014, 03:57 PM   #16
 
Jansi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Albuquerque NM
Posts: 729   (View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0
Jansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the worldJansi is the leader of the world
Thanks: 358
Thanked 654 Times in 330 Posts
Groans: 2
Groaned at 2 Times in 2 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1413064656.865726.jpg

255's fuck everything else!
NoRegrets likes this.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
"That Other's May Live"

SELF TUNED
380WHP/372WTQ Dyno Jet @SL E85 mix

ENGINE
GTX3071r // CUSTOM exMANI // CUSTOM DP // TAIL 38mm WG // NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS (6510) // HTP 3.5" WP+BATT TRAY // GRIMSPEED 3 PORT EBCS // BOSCH 3 BAR+HARNESS // JBR BYPASS HOSE // GUARDIAN ANGEL // CX PIPING+TR8 CORE // V3 ACCESSPORT // JBR 88a RMM // JBR 88 duro TRANNY // JBR OCC Stg 2 // SYNAPSE DV
SUSPENSION
CorkSport Coils // SPC REAR CAMBER ARMS @-1.5 // 17x9 RPF01's- 255/40/18 FEDERAL RS-R // 5mm(front) EIBACH SPACERS+STUDS
OTHER SHIT
JBR SSP // RALCO RZ SS // DEFI RED RACER BOOST GUAGE // BLOCK8HEAD VENT POD // KENWOOD DDX419 // KICKER ZX300.1 // DX200.4 // KICKER CVR 12" IN PORTED BOX // KICKER MIDS+HIGHS
Jansi is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-11-2014, 08:20 PM   #17
 
Spec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,472   (View Stats)
iTrader: (4)
Rep Power: 0
Spec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the worldSpec is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,823
Thanked 4,945 Times in 2,142 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 35 Times in 30 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Then your fenders get a little tarded.

If you don't care, do eeeet
__________________
Spec is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Spec For This Useful Post:
Jansi (10-11-2014)
 Old 10-11-2014, 09:22 PM   #18
 
mrshoulders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Stoughton, MA
Posts: 652   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the world
Thanks: 158
Thanked 418 Times in 199 Posts
Groans: 10
Groaned at 86 Times in 51 Posts
Neutral  +1 score     
Default

235/40/18 on xxr527 +35 with swift springs and no rub
__________________
2010 Speed3 w/tech
Bolted E85 FREEKTUNE
mrshoulders is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-12-2014, 12:25 AM   #19
 
wyeto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 465   (View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0
wyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the world
Thanks: 83
Thanked 136 Times in 99 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Summer tires it is. As long as they can handle some water from time to time I'm all over it.
The only question now is 245 too wide for an 8" wheel? Ive heard too wide can affect handling. I dont mind rolling those bad boys in the back pretty good.
wyeto is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-12-2014, 01:01 AM   #20
 
mps606's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 54   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 21
Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Too wide can affect handling. It makes it better ;] I'm currently running 235 Nexen N3000s on my stock 7" MS6 wheels. There's a slight mushroom shape at the top from excess width, but they look fine and don't rub. You'll have no problem putting 245s on 8"s.

TireRack gives you a wheel width range that the tires they sell will fit on. In the case of 245/45/18 RE11s, they say they'll fit on 7.5 - 9 inch wheels.
Attached Images
File Type: png uploadfromtaptalk1413097279962.png (194.8 KB, 49 views)
mps606 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-12-2014, 01:10 AM   #21
 
mps606's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 54   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 21
Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

While browsing Tire Rack for 245s, I happened across these Bridgestone S-04 PPs, which are bitching tires, much cheaper than RE11s (albeit not as good), and actually in stock. They should last longer too.

http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDeta...um=445YR8S04PP
mps606 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-12-2014, 01:22 AM   #22
 
mps606's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 54   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to beholdmps606 is a splendid one to behold
Thanks: 21
Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

And just to give you a broad range of choices, also some Continental DWs for even less than the S-04s. Tire Rack said these had better wet traction, so these may be the ones for you.

http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDeta...m=445YR8ECDWXL

And some phenomenal but much pricier Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDeta...um=445YR8PSSXL
mps606 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to mps606 For This Useful Post:
wyeto (10-15-2014)
 Old 10-12-2014, 01:39 AM   #23
 
mituc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Iasi/Romania
Posts: 3,527   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 1233
mituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,286
Thanked 2,138 Times in 1,236 Posts
Groans: 111
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Neutral  +1 score     
Default

Originally Posted by mrshoulders View Post
235/40/18 on xxr527 +35 with swift springs and no rub
And you forgot to say, factory alignment or even more negative camber in the rear (factory alignment for factory springs, and the car lowered later with the swift springs with no alignment).

When it comes to traction and lateral grip the tire width is indeed a factor that would affect both - but up to a point. Past that point no matter how much wider you go there will be no increase in traction or grip. Moreover, the wider you go without a proper alignment you will start feeling contradictory things which depending on the driving skills, conditions and style some people may report as an improvement, others will shut up not understanding what's going on and some others will report a decrease in both traction and grip:
  1. less wheel spin. Why: the wider the tire the heavier, so more effort from the engine to make it lose grip. You can achieve the same by lowering the boost/load targets in the lower gears on narrower tires and even have better results.
  2. less steering response. Why: the wider the tire the slower will want to turn. The taller the sidewall the more it will absorb the effort from the contact patch, so less will be transmitted to/from the steering rack/driver.
  3. more understeer. Why: the wider tire in the back will be less willing to let the car rotate, and in addition to this there will be more tire to grip under certain conditions while in the front the lateral grip will not change as much.
  4. braking may become weird as well. Do not forget that the wheels have camber, so the contact patch is maximized towards the inner side (negative camber). If the tire goes wider and wider it may lose or have less contact towards the outer side. When the car is straight and there is no mass transfer on any of the sides you may end up with a less efficient contact patch with a wider tire on the same alignment settings, or at least a different grip distribution within the contact patch which will make the tire/car wobble more under heavy braking.

There is a fine limit between the grip added by wider tire (supposedly wider contact patch) and the weight per square mm/foot/whatever. On very powerful cars the contact tire patch effort is exceeded and therefore they add wider tires. On lighter and/or less powerful cars this limit is not exceeded often enough to justify wider tires considering that adding them will make things worse in other departments.

If you want more grip then:
  1. stay at 215mm or maximum 225. If you autocross then maybe 235mm will help, but I'd rather find some low profile 17" 235/245mm wide semislicks for autocross and stay with 225 for the street.
  2. get at least some camber arms for the rear. Reduce the camber from -2 degrees or whatever it is from factory (-1.8 - -2) to -1.5 tops, ideally -1.2 - -1.3 - you will see ho close to -1 you can go based on the rim offset and tire width (on 225/40/r18 with a +48 ET I can't do less than -1.5). The car will indeed start turning properly even with the factory front alignment.
  3. get a front tie bar brace. If the car will turn better there's going to be more effort on the front suspension and the inside wheel will have less grip. You can keep it on the ground with such mods (lower arm tie brace or top strut brace).
  4. if you're on 215/45 then go 225/40, 235/40 or 225/45 will take away from the steering response even though they will add some grip. Probably a good functional setup which would also be comfortable is 235/40 in the front and 225/45 in the rear. But... asymmetric... I don't know... and the steering response is also questionable because that matters a lot in mass transfer which does a lot to settle the car in a tight turn.
  5. adjust the tire pressure every week in the spring and autumn when the ambient temperature changes are faster. use nitrogen if you find in your area, not because it's nitrogen and will absorb just a bit more heat to increase its volume like the air mix does (the air is 78% nitrogen already) but just because it comes into tanks and have 0 condensed water which you can find in huge quantities in the standard air compressors (with heat those water vapors will break even more making the tire pressure to raise by a lot when the tire gets just a bit hotter).
  6. get slightly stiffer motor mounts to prevent wheel hop under hard acceleration as well as hesitation under heavy braking coming from acceleration. Even some insertions on the factory mounts will help by a lot.
  7. go with a premium tire and make sure you choose it based on the driving conditions where you drive the car most. By example in my area the best tire I could get is Michelin PS3.

The relatively dusty roads will make stickier tires to grip less. I've had R888, michelin pilot supersport, and michelin pilot sport cup on the cars I drove, I could feel a real difference only when the weather was hot and didn't rain for at least a week. When it was rainy, moist or dusty after a day or two of rain I almost killed myself with the Michelin PSSs as I was too confident about what they can do (with the semislicks I was more careful on those conditions).
So if you drive a lot on dry roads with little to no dust you have a lot of options: Advan neova AD08, Direzza starspec, Nitto 05, r888/r1r, michelin PSC, and so on, even the michelin PSS for a bit more varied environment. If the roads also have dust, you also get rain, and so on, think very seriously to the michelin PS3s. I've came back to them after trying stickier tires which were not stickier in all weather conditions.

So wider is not better. Stickier is. And more contact patch from the same tire width is. Adjusting the alignment and picking the right tire for your driving condition is. Remember, 225/40/r18 is perfect for the G forces these chassis can do and will also provide decent ride comfort. Go with 235/40 or 225/45 only if you drive on rough roads (but I guess that in this case you weren't necessarily after more grip but more comfort).
blkspd3, keridil, skoski17 and 2 others like this.
__________________
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts
Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI

Last edited by mituc; 10-12-2014 at 01:53 AM.
mituc is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to mituc For This Useful Post:
blkspd3 (03-29-2015), googlebutt (10-16-2014), keridil (10-14-2014), mmanda2290 (12-13-2014), mudrunner2600 (12-19-2014), wyeto (10-15-2014)
 Old 10-12-2014, 06:27 AM   #24
 
mrshoulders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Stoughton, MA
Posts: 652   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the world
Thanks: 158
Thanked 418 Times in 199 Posts
Groans: 10
Groaned at 86 Times in 51 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Obviously I got an alignment with springs. 225 look pathetic on 18 inch wheels.
__________________
2010 Speed3 w/tech
Bolted E85 FREEKTUNE
mrshoulders is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-12-2014, 11:47 AM   #25
 
mituc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Iasi/Romania
Posts: 3,527   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 1233
mituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,286
Thanked 2,138 Times in 1,236 Posts
Groans: 111
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Well, you have a gen2, I just noticed your signature. But posted impressions on in the gen1 section giving advice to a gen1 owner
There's a bit more space in the fenders on gen2s.
__________________
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts
Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI
mituc is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-12-2014, 08:27 PM   #26
 
mrshoulders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Stoughton, MA
Posts: 652   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the worldmrshoulders is the leader of the world
Thanks: 158
Thanked 418 Times in 199 Posts
Groans: 10
Groaned at 86 Times in 51 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Good point
__________________
2010 Speed3 w/tech
Bolted E85 FREEKTUNE
mrshoulders is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 10-15-2014, 09:30 PM   #27
 
wyeto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 465   (View Stats)
iTrader: (2)
Rep Power: 0
wyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the worldwyeto is the leader of the world
Thanks: 83
Thanked 136 Times in 99 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 1 Time in 1 Post
(Thread Starter)
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by mituc View Post
And you forgot to say, factory alignment or even more negative camber in the rear (factory alignment for factory springs, and the car lowered later with the swift springs with no alignment).

When it comes to traction and lateral grip the tire width is indeed a factor that would affect both - but up to a point. Past that point no matter how much wider you go there will be no increase in traction or grip. Moreover, the wider you go without a proper alignment you will start feeling contradictory things which depending on the driving skills, conditions and style some people may report as an improvement, others will shut up not understanding what's going on and some others will report a decrease in both traction and grip:
  1. less wheel spin. Why: the wider the tire the heavier, so more effort from the engine to make it lose grip. You can achieve the same by lowering the boost/load targets in the lower gears on narrower tires and even have better results.
  2. less steering response. Why: the wider the tire the slower will want to turn. The taller the sidewall the more it will absorb the effort from the contact patch, so less will be transmitted to/from the steering rack/driver.
  3. more understeer. Why: the wider tire in the back will be less willing to let the car rotate, and in addition to this there will be more tire to grip under certain conditions while in the front the lateral grip will not change as much.
  4. braking may become weird as well. Do not forget that the wheels have camber, so the contact patch is maximized towards the inner side (negative camber). If the tire goes wider and wider it may lose or have less contact towards the outer side. When the car is straight and there is no mass transfer on any of the sides you may end up with a less efficient contact patch with a wider tire on the same alignment settings, or at least a different grip distribution within the contact patch which will make the tire/car wobble more under heavy braking.

There is a fine limit between the grip added by wider tire (supposedly wider contact patch) and the weight per square mm/foot/whatever. On very powerful cars the contact tire patch effort is exceeded and therefore they add wider tires. On lighter and/or less powerful cars this limit is not exceeded often enough to justify wider tires considering that adding them will make things worse in other departments.

If you want more grip then:
  1. stay at 215mm or maximum 225. If you autocross then maybe 235mm will help, but I'd rather find some low profile 17" 235/245mm wide semislicks for autocross and stay with 225 for the street.
  2. get at least some camber arms for the rear. Reduce the camber from -2 degrees or whatever it is from factory (-1.8 - -2) to -1.5 tops, ideally -1.2 - -1.3 - you will see ho close to -1 you can go based on the rim offset and tire width (on 225/40/r18 with a +48 ET I can't do less than -1.5). The car will indeed start turning properly even with the factory front alignment.
  3. get a front tie bar brace. If the car will turn better there's going to be more effort on the front suspension and the inside wheel will have less grip. You can keep it on the ground with such mods (lower arm tie brace or top strut brace).
  4. if you're on 215/45 then go 225/40, 235/40 or 225/45 will take away from the steering response even though they will add some grip. Probably a good functional setup which would also be comfortable is 235/40 in the front and 225/45 in the rear. But... asymmetric... I don't know... and the steering response is also questionable because that matters a lot in mass transfer which does a lot to settle the car in a tight turn.
  5. adjust the tire pressure every week in the spring and autumn when the ambient temperature changes are faster. use nitrogen if you find in your area, not because it's nitrogen and will absorb just a bit more heat to increase its volume like the air mix does (the air is 78% nitrogen already) but just because it comes into tanks and have 0 condensed water which you can find in huge quantities in the standard air compressors (with heat those water vapors will break even more making the tire pressure to raise by a lot when the tire gets just a bit hotter).
  6. get slightly stiffer motor mounts to prevent wheel hop under hard acceleration as well as hesitation under heavy braking coming from acceleration. Even some insertions on the factory mounts will help by a lot.
  7. go with a premium tire and make sure you choose it based on the driving conditions where you drive the car most. By example in my area the best tire I could get is Michelin PS3.

The relatively dusty roads will make stickier tires to grip less. I've had R888, michelin pilot supersport, and michelin pilot sport cup on the cars I drove, I could feel a real difference only when the weather was hot and didn't rain for at least a week. When it was rainy, moist or dusty after a day or two of rain I almost killed myself with the Michelin PSSs as I was too confident about what they can do (with the semislicks I was more careful on those conditions).
So if you drive a lot on dry roads with little to no dust you have a lot of options: Advan neova AD08, Direzza starspec, Nitto 05, r888/r1r, michelin PSC, and so on, even the michelin PSS for a bit more varied environment. If the roads also have dust, you also get rain, and so on, think very seriously to the michelin PS3s. I've came back to them after trying stickier tires which were not stickier in all weather conditions.

So wider is not better. Stickier is. And more contact patch from the same tire width is. Adjusting the alignment and picking the right tire for your driving condition is. Remember, 225/40/r18 is perfect for the G forces these chassis can do and will also provide decent ride comfort. Go with 235/40 or 225/45 only if you drive on rough roads (but I guess that in this case you weren't necessarily after more grip but more comfort).
This is some seriously good information!
thanks a lot many good suggestions and tips here
wyeto is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 12-19-2014, 12:43 PM   #28
 
mudrunner2600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 7   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 0
mudrunner2600 is just really nicemudrunner2600 is just really nicemudrunner2600 is just really nicemudrunner2600 is just really nicemudrunner2600 is just really nice
Thanks: 9
Thanked 8 Times in 3 Posts
Groans: 0
Groaned at 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by mituc View Post
And you forgot to say, factory alignment or even more negative camber in the rear (factory alignment for factory springs, and the car lowered later with the swift springs with no alignment).

When it comes to traction and lateral grip the tire width is indeed a factor that would affect both - but up to a point. Past that point no matter how much wider you go there will be no increase in traction or grip. Moreover, the wider you go without a proper alignment you will start feeling contradictory things which depending on the driving skills, conditions and style some people may report as an improvement, others will shut up not understanding what's going on and some others will report a decrease in both traction and grip:
  1. less wheel spin. Why: the wider the tire the heavier, so more effort from the engine to make it lose grip. You can achieve the same by lowering the boost/load targets in the lower gears on narrower tires and even have better results.
  2. less steering response. Why: the wider the tire the slower will want to turn. The taller the sidewall the more it will absorb the effort from the contact patch, so less will be transmitted to/from the steering rack/driver.
  3. more understeer. Why: the wider tire in the back will be less willing to let the car rotate, and in addition to this there will be more tire to grip under certain conditions while in the front the lateral grip will not change as much.
  4. braking may become weird as well. Do not forget that the wheels have camber, so the contact patch is maximized towards the inner side (negative camber). If the tire goes wider and wider it may lose or have less contact towards the outer side. When the car is straight and there is no mass transfer on any of the sides you may end up with a less efficient contact patch with a wider tire on the same alignment settings, or at least a different grip distribution within the contact patch which will make the tire/car wobble more under heavy braking.

There is a fine limit between the grip added by wider tire (supposedly wider contact patch) and the weight per square mm/foot/whatever. On very powerful cars the contact tire patch effort is exceeded and therefore they add wider tires. On lighter and/or less powerful cars this limit is not exceeded often enough to justify wider tires considering that adding them will make things worse in other departments.

If you want more grip then:
  1. stay at 215mm or maximum 225. If you autocross then maybe 235mm will help, but I'd rather find some low profile 17" 235/245mm wide semislicks for autocross and stay with 225 for the street.
  2. get at least some camber arms for the rear. Reduce the camber from -2 degrees or whatever it is from factory (-1.8 - -2) to -1.5 tops, ideally -1.2 - -1.3 - you will see ho close to -1 you can go based on the rim offset and tire width (on 225/40/r18 with a +48 ET I can't do less than -1.5). The car will indeed start turning properly even with the factory front alignment.
  3. get a front tie bar brace. If the car will turn better there's going to be more effort on the front suspension and the inside wheel will have less grip. You can keep it on the ground with such mods (lower arm tie brace or top strut brace).
  4. if you're on 215/45 then go 225/40, 235/40 or 225/45 will take away from the steering response even though they will add some grip. Probably a good functional setup which would also be comfortable is 235/40 in the front and 225/45 in the rear. But... asymmetric... I don't know... and the steering response is also questionable because that matters a lot in mass transfer which does a lot to settle the car in a tight turn.
  5. adjust the tire pressure every week in the spring and autumn when the ambient temperature changes are faster. use nitrogen if you find in your area, not because it's nitrogen and will absorb just a bit more heat to increase its volume like the air mix does (the air is 78% nitrogen already) but just because it comes into tanks and have 0 condensed water which you can find in huge quantities in the standard air compressors (with heat those water vapors will break even more making the tire pressure to raise by a lot when the tire gets just a bit hotter).
  6. get slightly stiffer motor mounts to prevent wheel hop under hard acceleration as well as hesitation under heavy braking coming from acceleration. Even some insertions on the factory mounts will help by a lot.
  7. go with a premium tire and make sure you choose it based on the driving conditions where you drive the car most. By example in my area the best tire I could get is Michelin PS3.

The relatively dusty roads will make stickier tires to grip less. I've had R888, michelin pilot supersport, and michelin pilot sport cup on the cars I drove, I could feel a real difference only when the weather was hot and didn't rain for at least a week. When it was rainy, moist or dusty after a day or two of rain I almost killed myself with the Michelin PSSs as I was too confident about what they can do (with the semislicks I was more careful on those conditions).
So if you drive a lot on dry roads with little to no dust you have a lot of options: Advan neova AD08, Direzza starspec, Nitto 05, r888/r1r, michelin PSC, and so on, even the michelin PSS for a bit more varied environment. If the roads also have dust, you also get rain, and so on, think very seriously to the michelin PS3s. I've came back to them after trying stickier tires which were not stickier in all weather conditions.

So wider is not better. Stickier is. And more contact patch from the same tire width is. Adjusting the alignment and picking the right tire for your driving condition is. Remember, 225/40/r18 is perfect for the G forces these chassis can do and will also provide decent ride comfort. Go with 235/40 or 225/45 only if you drive on rough roads (but I guess that in this case you weren't necessarily after more grip but more comfort).

Awesome information THANK YOU! I was originally think some 245/35/18s but this makes perfect sense. Maybe 235/40/18 is the money. I screen printed this for later haha
mudrunner2600 is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 12-19-2014, 01:10 PM   #29
 
HawkeyeGeoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Waterford, MI - America's High Five
Posts: 3,036   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0
HawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the world
Thanks: 2,451
Thanked 2,709 Times in 1,397 Posts
Groans: 13
Groaned at 23 Times in 13 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Well, you have a gen2, I just noticed your signature. But posted impressions on in the gen1 section giving advice to a gen1 owner
There's a bit more space in the fenders on gen2s.
So, I'm going to be in a Gen Juan with absurd amounts of torque....you think 235's will grip better than 245's with the compound being the same (NT05's or RE11's will be the route most likely). It has some pretty lackluster tires that will be coming with it. I know it wouldn't be A LOT of effort to get to 245's since I have a set of 8" and set of 7.5" rims, just some quarter panel rolling and some spacers most likely....but if 245's wont do more for grippys....I'd just stick with the easy 235's.

It's kind of hard to wrap my head around this concept still with a proper alignment...but I think I kind of get it....I mean we are also talking about ~500 wtq here.


Edit: I think I misread. I still think 245's would be warranted in my application.
__________________
Silver 2007 Speed3 GT
Xona Rotor 6156, Port Injection w/ E85...Bunch of other stuff. I make some power.
Titanium Grey Mazdaspeed6 GTX3071, DD
HawkeyeGeoff is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 12-25-2014, 11:10 AM   #30
 
mituc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Iasi/Romania
Posts: 3,527   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 1233
mituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,286
Thanked 2,138 Times in 1,236 Posts
Groans: 111
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
So, I'm going to be in a Gen Juan with absurd amounts of torque....you think 235's will grip better than 245's with the compound being the same (NT05's or RE11's will be the route most likely). It has some pretty lackluster tires that will be coming with it. I know it wouldn't be A LOT of effort to get to 245's since I have a set of 8" and set of 7.5" rims, just some quarter panel rolling and some spacers most likely....but if 245's wont do more for grippys....I'd just stick with the easy 235's.
Well, and what tire do you think will prevent wheel spin in a 400wtq car, FWD or RWD? I'm not sure a 305 can do it... And since no tire can hold that torque, what do you think the difference between a 205 and a 235mm tire would be in therms of wheel spin time? I'm sure not much, just that the narrower tire will not be able to spin for long or for as many times as the wider tire because it has less material to dissipate the heat into, and will soften quicker. Look at the clip at the end of this post.

There is another reason why going wider and wider is not going to help much:

Our cars have a McPherson suspension in the front. So if you want traction you need to maximize the contact patch of the front tire AND make sure that there is enough weight across the entire surface of the contact patch.If the camber is too aggressive the outer edges of the tire will either lift from the ground or not have enough weight on them to provide grip.

This means you will have to lower the negative camber in front and do something like -0.5 - 0.7 degrees maximum with a 245. This means that in hard turns the inside of the outside tire may lift, same for the outside of the inside tire. To minimize this and fi you're running 18" rims you may need to use lower tire pressure which will hurt even more the steering response and feedback already hurt by the wider tire. If you have 17" rims then the taller tire will help quote a lot.
So... I don't know, but this doesn't look bright at all.

If you want traction and grip for the dragstrip then get some 15-16" 10" wide rims and throw a drag slick on them. Otherwise for a 3300-3500lbs car a 215-235mm tire is perfect for street, eventually a 245 tire on 17" wheels for autocross if you really want to go 245. Remember that on the street when running wide tires on a too light car (for the width of the tire) you may run into very weird situations on wet roads or asphalt covered with mud or sand. When you're on the street you're on the street, the road may not always be track clean as is on the highway (and not even there).

When I will start tracking my car (after I rebuild the engine) I'm thinking to have an asymmetric setup on 18": 235/40/r18 (probably michelin pilot sport cup2) in the front and 215/45/r18 in the rear (not sure, michelin PS3 should be fine in the rear).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPh90yNX-mY
__________________
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts
Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI
mituc is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 12-25-2014, 09:41 PM   #31
 
HawkeyeGeoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Waterford, MI - America's High Five
Posts: 3,036   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0
HawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the world
Thanks: 2,451
Thanked 2,709 Times in 1,397 Posts
Groans: 13
Groaned at 23 Times in 13 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Well, and what tire do you think will prevent wheel spin in a 400wtq car, FWD or RWD? I'm not sure a 305 can do it... And since no tire can hold that torque, what do you think the difference between a 205 and a 235mm tire would be in therms of wheel spin time? I'm sure not much, just that the narrower tire will not be able to spin for long or for as many times as the wider tire because it has less material to dissipate the heat into, and will soften quicker. Look at the clip at the end of this post.

There is another reason why going wider and wider is not going to help much:

Our cars have a McPherson suspension in the front. So if you want traction you need to maximize the contact patch of the front tire AND make sure that there is enough weight across the entire surface of the contact patch.If the camber is too aggressive the outer edges of the tire will either lift from the ground or not have enough weight on them to provide grip.

This means you will have to lower the negative camber in front and do something like -0.5 - 0.7 degrees maximum with a 245. This means that in hard turns the inside of the outside tire may lift, same for the outside of the inside tire. To minimize this and fi you're running 18" rims you may need to use lower tire pressure which will hurt even more the steering response and feedback already hurt by the wider tire. If you have 17" rims then the taller tire will help quote a lot.
So... I don't know, but this doesn't look bright at all.

If you want traction and grip for the dragstrip then get some 15-16" 10" wide rims and throw a drag slick on them. Otherwise for a 3300-3500lbs car a 215-235mm tire is perfect for street, eventually a 245 tire on 17" wheels for autocross if you really want to go 245. Remember that on the street when running wide tires on a too light car (for the width of the tire) you may run into very weird situations on wet roads or asphalt covered with mud or sand. When you're on the street you're on the street, the road may not always be track clean as is on the highway (and not even there).

When I will start tracking my car (after I rebuild the engine) I'm thinking to have an asymmetric setup on 18": 235/40/r18 (probably michelin pilot sport cup2) in the front and 215/45/r18 in the rear (not sure, michelin PS3 should be fine in the rear).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPh90yNX-mY
I'll be running on Bilstein B8's and Cobb springs, 17" rims (have two aftermarket sets), one Track set, one street set. I mean TBH yeah there isn't really going to be much that will hold down a 500wtq vehicle lol so I may try out a few different options with -1.5 camber. it's not a drag strip car, only autox and road courses.

I'll let you know how it turns out with 235's and 245's. Thanks for the advice!
__________________
Silver 2007 Speed3 GT
Xona Rotor 6156, Port Injection w/ E85...Bunch of other stuff. I make some power.
Titanium Grey Mazdaspeed6 GTX3071, DD
HawkeyeGeoff is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to HawkeyeGeoff For This Useful Post:
mituc (12-25-2014)
 Old 12-25-2014, 10:58 PM   #32
 
mituc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Iasi/Romania
Posts: 3,527   (View Stats)
iTrader: (0)
Rep Power: 1233
mituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the worldmituc is the leader of the world
Thanks: 1,286
Thanked 2,138 Times in 1,236 Posts
Groans: 111
Groaned at 17 Times in 14 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
I'll be running on Bilstein B8's and Cobb springs, 17" rims (have two aftermarket sets), one Track set, one street set. I mean TBH yeah there isn't really going to be much that will hold down a 500wtq vehicle lol so I may try out a few different options with -1.5 camber. it's not a drag strip car, only autox and road courses.

I'll let you know how it turns out with 235's and 245's. Thanks for the advice!
Well, really, do not forget to post here your impressions, because I'm very curious as well. A 17" 245 tire should help with traction and also cornering, it's probably the best combo in this case. But I'm not sure how different is going to be from a 235mm tire, or if it will be better, worse or the same.

I remember that back in the day in the V8 Supercars aussie championship they were running 245mm tires on 17" wheels (now they moved to 18") and crazy front camber, like -2.5 degrees or so. But they were able to use it because those cars also have some aero grip so they were able to corner significantly harder. It's not that I compare those extreme sweet machines with what we have here, but the ultimate goal is the same, to go crazy fast.
__________________
2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS
Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts
Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI
mituc is offline   Reply With Quote
 Old 12-25-2014, 11:02 PM   #33
 
HawkeyeGeoff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Waterford, MI - America's High Five
Posts: 3,036   (View Stats)
iTrader: (3)
Rep Power: 0
HawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the worldHawkeyeGeoff is the leader of the world
Thanks: 2,451
Thanked 2,709 Times in 1,397 Posts
Groans: 13
Groaned at 23 Times in 13 Posts
Not Ranked  0 score     
Default

Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Well, really, do not forget to post here your impressions, because I'm very curious as well. A 17" 245 tire should help with traction and also cornering, it's probably the best combo in this case. But I'm not sure how different is going to be from a 235mm tire, or if it will be better, worse or the same.

I remember that back in the day in the V8 Supercars aussie championship they were running 245mm tires on 17" wheels (now they moved to 18") and crazy front camber, like -2.5 degrees or so. But they were able to use it because those cars also have some aero grip so they were able to corner significantly harder. It's not that I compare those extreme sweet machines with what we have here, but the ultimate goal is the same, to go crazy fast.
Totally get what you're saying. I think your tire compound is going to dictate SIGNIFICANTLY more than the width. I will be using ultra high performance compounds (nt05, re11s, etc). I will let you know the impressions between the two. I think I will be taking 235s to Tail of the Dragon just for simplicities sake and not having enough time to roll and do all that beforehand. Im sure the 235s will perform stellar regardless.


Sent while granny shiftin' and not double clutching like I should
__________________
Silver 2007 Speed3 GT
Xona Rotor 6156, Port Injection w/ E85...Bunch of other stuff. I make some power.
Titanium Grey Mazdaspeed6 GTX3071, DD
HawkeyeGeoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First log after switching to rotella t6 Spawn 2010 MS3 - ECU Computer Tuning 18 07-09-2014 03:53 PM
switching oil? blackms3_71 Mazdaspeed3/6 General Discussion 9 11-17-2013 12:17 AM
Switching from SB to AP... need help MS3 Ventura MazdaSpeed 3/6 - ECU Computer Tuning 23 12-20-2010 11:15 PM
Switching from AP to STANDBACK2 kooofie MazdaSpeed 3/6 - ECU Computer Tuning 16 05-04-2010 03:11 AM
Switching to MBC cpolly69 MazdaSpeed 3/6 - Turbo Induction 10 09-20-2009 06:43 PM


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:49 AM.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors
Template-Modifications by TMS
©Copyright 2008 ; 2019 Cymru Internet Services LLC | FYHN™ Autosports HQ
Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
Page generated in 0.57100 seconds with 34 queries