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 Old 09-09-2008, 12:05 AM   #1
 
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Default CDFP internals upgrade

I tackled a Speed 3 CDFP build at the CP-E/PG/DC meet last weekend and found it to be very simple. The following write up is hopefully going to help a bunch of you guys out and save you a ton of cash. Thank knyghtryda for the pictures, Darksun280 for the pump/donor Speed3, mrlilguy157 for the internals and info, and lastly me CraigHJR if the car runs afterwards.

Tools; E8 inverted torx, 17&19mm open end wrenches, one zip tie, 18mm deep 3/8” socket and long handle ratchet, bench vice with soft jaws and possibly a second set of hands, needle nose pliers, misc 10mm wrenches and sockets.

Start with the car cold preferably.Remove the smaller blue relay in the under hood fuse box that says “circuit“.
Start the car and it should die when the fuel pressure runs low in 10 seconds. (if not the car being cold means the gas can't really catch fire though it will spray out at high pressure)Remove the entire battery box/ecu and turbo inlet hose if you want to make things easier for your self.
Locate the solid steel line under the CDFP and put a zip tie an inch under the 19mm nut.
This keeps the nut from wandering too far down the line.
Remove the 2 upper fuel lines and electrical connector.
The yellow clip hugs the plastic and has to be opened on both sides while slid out.
The blue clip has a twist motion to release the line.
Simultaneously use the 17mm open end to hold the lower base of the CDFP (this CAN NOT SPIN!!!) and the 19mm to break the nut loose (it will spin off easily once broken loose).
Use the E8 inverted torx to remove the 3 screws (back them out evenly as to not cock the spring loaded pump mechanism).
I will say that all that was the hard part and things will be easier from here on out.We are starting with this.

First pull the spring and stock plunger straight out of the pump. This is the stock plunger (left) and upgrade internals and stock spring(right).

Now support the pump in the bench vice a grab a buddy to steady this thing. Be careful of your lines and sealing surfaces against the vice. Remove the 18mm nut that is now exposed where the spring came off. Righty tighty and lefty loosey.

Here you see the 18mm nut assembly removed.

Now gently use needle nose pliers to lift the stock piston out. Notice the small shoulder and large shoulder on the piston. The large side points out towards you.

Now dip all the reused and new parts in gasoline this works as a solvent to remove any debris. Lightly oil the moving parts and then slide the upgrade piston and shaft into the 18mm cap. The small end with the retainer groove will be outside the pump. It is unclear if the internals come with the pistons on the shafts already but make sure yours looks like pictured in the first steps above before forcing anything together.

With your finger push the shaft to reveal as much of the retainer groove side through the 18mm nut.

Now slide the spring over the external side of the shaft and seat it on the grove it originally came off of. The spring retainer goes on next with the centering dish going into the spring. Put on the 2 retainer halves and balance everything. Push the retiner end into the assembly jamming the retainer into the spring retainer. The spring is now centered and assembled like pictured below.

Make sure no foreign objects fell into your pump and begin to screw the assembled spring and piston assembly into the pump housing by hand.

Once your confident the threads are engaged properly put that deep 18mm over the whole spring and tighten her down. I was not given a spec for this but it is very tight to remove so make it very tight. Again beware of the o-ring, fuel lines and now spring sticking up into the socket. I would say the pump is ready for reinstallation now. Put some fresh oil on the tip of the spring side that rides the camshaft and the o-ring. Use the 3 E-8’s to evenly and slowly draw the pump onto the head. Also be careful to not bend or mutilate the threads on the 17/19 mm stuff underneath by slightly wiggling the steel line downward to allow an even seating as the pump nears its final installed position. Make sure to hold the 17 and do not allow it to spin at all while putting the 19mm nut on. Do not cross thread the 19mm it will spin on freely by hand until the very last ½ turn.

If you made it this far I hope you can put everything else back together paying special attention to the turbo inlet hose being tightened down properly to the turbo.
You should disable the coil packs to allow the engine to crank and build up fuel pressure slightly before you just start the car up. There is a black or gray connector right next to the coil on cylinder 4 that will disconnect them all. If all is well you will be up and running now. If not you probably have a lot of noise and a lean condition which will lead you to be sitting in the same spot as Randy!!!

Last edited by CraigHJr; 01-20-2010 at 01:35 PM. Reason: sick of haters bitching
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 Old 09-09-2008, 12:45 AM   #2
 
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Awesome! Appreciate the writeup!
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 Old 09-09-2008, 07:27 AM   #3
 
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Sticky!
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 Old 09-09-2008, 08:14 AM   #4
 
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this will come in handy in the near future
thanks!
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 Old 09-09-2008, 08:18 AM   #5
 
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The six how-to section is seperate should I post it in there too? I am thinking about posting it up on the other forums as well, I know this place isn't always easy to find. It should be a sticky because I followed the rules and wrote how-to do something and didn't ask a how-do question in this section!!! Is there any way that both 3 and 6 sections could go to the same write up to prevent questions being repeatedly asked?
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 Old 09-09-2008, 08:28 AM   #6
 
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great write up!!!
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 Old 09-09-2008, 08:58 AM   #7
 
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awesome write up man! I will probably be doing this some time.
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 Old 09-09-2008, 09:04 AM   #8
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Here's great write-up from Wayne on the Aussie forums ... hate to say it but the instructions & pics you sent out Ken suck!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf CDFP Kit Install.pdf (992.0 KB, 1944 views)
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 Old 09-09-2008, 09:34 AM   #9
 
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HAHA wish I had that before I did the pump build and before I spent 2 hours building this write up!
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 Old 09-09-2008, 01:51 PM   #10
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haha ... yours is good too - I didn't even have THAT to go on.

On a side note I'm loving this upgrade - part throttle response is great and the car always has that sound & feel like it's always "in the zone", if u know what I mean. My accelerating LTFT's went to zero bang on too!!!
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 Old 09-11-2008, 06:28 PM   #11
 
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hate to say it but the instructions & pics you sent out Ken suck!
Very true, they suck. I didnt really use mine, I pulled up MSF to check things out when things were unclear, even so, it wasnt much fun this way. Too bad This wasnt out by the time I did mine!
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 Old 09-11-2008, 07:02 PM   #12
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Oh ya!!

Issues I had ... 1 - which way does the silver rod go in? 2 - which way does the dark barrel (the one with the hole) go? 3 - Where the hell do those 2 clips go?

When you think of the importance of doing this properly it really makes you shake your head at the lack of proper & clear pics & instructions on this. Good thing the Aussies are better at writing instructions. LOL
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 Old 09-16-2008, 06:42 PM   #13
 
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im about to do this,i need to know whats the exact fuse i pull to do it.
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 Old 09-16-2008, 08:54 PM   #14
 
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LBV is that a knock at my write up or the dirrections with the kit (which I have never seen).

Grim in the underhood fuse box there are mini blue relays not fuses that you want to pull. There is one labled "fuel 2" and then the one you want is next to that. They are arranged in a line from battery to headlight. I think its closer to the battery. If you start first thing in the am with the car not run and cold you can just skip the pulling the relay all together. Pm me your number if you have a problem, I check my mail several times a day. And that aussie write up is good so make sure you read that too.
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 Old 09-16-2008, 10:21 PM   #15
 
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im finished,the relay you are talking about was called "circut".The install was pretty simple,both writeups were very helpful.Thanks!
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 Old 09-16-2008, 11:04 PM   #16
 
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Great writeup, and I must say this is an awesome bang for buck mod. Very simple.
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 Old 09-17-2008, 07:07 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by CraigHJr View Post
LBV is that a knock at my write up or the dirrections with the kit (which I have never seen).
Definitely a knock on the original directions sent with the kit! I applaud you for taking the time to do what you did ... I did the same when I installed my Prosport boost gauge so I know the extra effort involved to help others.
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 Old 09-24-2008, 08:20 PM   #18
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one does this upgrade before or at the onset of one getting fuel cut?
too lean conditions?
is that what the worry is?
please pardon my ignorance, but any help is appreciated
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 Old 09-24-2008, 09:34 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
one does this upgrade before or at the onset of one getting fuel cut?
too lean conditions?
is that what the worry is?
please pardon my ignorance, but any help is appreciated
You can do it anytime you want. I did it after I started getting fuel cut.
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 Old 09-24-2008, 09:47 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
one does this upgrade before or at the onset of one getting fuel cut?
too lean conditions?
is that what the worry is?
please pardon my ignorance, but any help is appreciated
the stock pump just plain sucks,and its a good failsafe to get a new pump regardless if you get cut or not.
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 Old 10-03-2008, 09:26 PM   #21
 
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I just got my spare fuel pump in the mail to do a this mod to! Are these the same internals as mrlilguys or cpe's?
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 Old 10-03-2008, 09:40 PM   #22
 
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yes
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 Old 10-04-2008, 12:25 AM   #23
 
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Mrlilguy's vw kmd or something
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 Old 10-06-2008, 09:10 AM   #24
 
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Grim you bastard. I love your avatar so much I just starred at it for 5 min straight at work cuz I am bored.....i wish this door locked.....

well I'll prolly just get the internals then once they are stocked...
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 Old 10-06-2008, 09:45 AM   #25
 
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great write up! sub
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 Old 10-21-2008, 09:57 AM   #26
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heres the instructions from KMD



KMD Tuning - KMD FSI Fuel Pump Kit
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 Old 10-21-2008, 10:19 AM   #27
 
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Good stuff, I wonder if they have them in stock as well as they always seem out on the Mazda end.
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 Old 10-21-2008, 10:34 AM   #28
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i need them bad but im out of money for a longggg time. good thing i got that 180 bucks cashback coming nov 30th from ebay hehe

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 Old 10-22-2008, 03:09 PM   #29
 
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What are you guys using to data log with?
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 Old 10-22-2008, 03:25 PM   #30
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 Old 10-23-2008, 03:38 PM   #31
 
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so i guess having your fuel pressure fall below a 1100psi is bad then? Maybe that is why my car messes up when i run more than 16psi.
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 Old 11-19-2008, 05:15 PM   #32
 
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I don't get fuel cut, and I don't go lean. Do I really need a new fuel pump?
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 Old 11-19-2008, 05:29 PM   #33
 
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where can one get an E8 inverted torx? home depot? lowes? auto parts store?
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 Old 11-19-2008, 07:22 PM   #34
 
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i got mine from harbor freight.basically any hardware store
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 Old 11-25-2008, 02:23 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by Ferdball View Post


I don't get fuel cut, and I don't go lean. Do I really need a new fuel pump?

imo, no

your pump logs look like mine. Never dip below 1100 usually. However, i grabbed some for the "just cuz" reason, but at 250 a wack, its an easy mod to overlook if you dont need it.
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 Old 11-25-2008, 02:38 PM   #36
 
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I think you guys are minimizing the importance of the cdfp upgrade. Yes I did get it to cure my pressure drop, but it also made the overall power delivery much smoother. It's hard to fully describe, but the car just wants to pull harder with it and doesn't feel taxed at all. If you were showing no drop in pressure whatsoever, I'd say to *maybe* pass it up. But looking at your log, you should definitely consider getting one. Have you dynoed your car? I bet you'd see a big difference in mid-range power between the faulty oem pump and an upgraded one. On my car, I noticed a difference of 25+whp around 4k-5k rpm (where the pressure drop occurs).
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 Old 11-25-2008, 02:39 PM   #37
 
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You know, we're discussing a theory about the affects of the fuel pressure. I sometimes get pops and mild backfires during WOT. If the lack of pressure causes a lack of atomization, inefficient ignition, and more fuel being read by the O2 sensor, then the theory explains the pops too.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...tml#post112525
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 Old 11-30-2008, 07:45 AM   #38
 
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how crucial is it to have a vice to hold the pump? I realize that nut is in there tight, but might I be able to do this on a bench with a few wood clamps?

Ive been historically too cheap to buy a nice vice... all the ones I like are 100 if not 3 times that.

anyway, its snowing and I got my summers tires on, so if there is a chance of doing this without driving to work, it would make it alot easier on me
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 Old 11-30-2008, 09:38 AM   #39
 
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Anything is possible. It is a simple swap once you break that nut loose.
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 Old 11-30-2008, 10:02 AM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by Lymerock View Post
how crucial is it to have a vice to hold the pump? I realize that nut is in there tight, but might I be able to do this on a bench with a few wood clamps?

Ive been historically too cheap to buy a nice vice... all the ones I like are 100 if not 3 times that.

anyway, its snowing and I got my summers tires on, so if there is a chance of doing this without driving to work, it would make it alot easier on me

here ya go man...i picked this little gem up a few weeks ago

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94428
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f33/camshaft-driven-fuel-pump-internals-upgrade-11215/
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