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 Old 11-30-2014, 06:53 AM   #41
 
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I just wanted to share what you will have to do if you fuck up and break a bolt like I did lol.
Took me 10 hours to remove the subframe, extract the bolt and re-assemble everything. My alignment is not off as far as I can tell. Luckily I had a fellow speed owner who let me use his shop and helped out as well.
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 Old 11-30-2014, 10:55 AM   #42
 
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Moral of the story, don't do that.
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 Old 01-26-2015, 10:56 AM   #43
 
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Tried like hell to do this this last weekend. The tools I had just wouldn't let me. So I use the Corksport instructions on installing a new swaybar to lower the subframe. Was a piece of cake... Except for trying to raise that damn thing back up and get the bolts lined up... especially by myself. But I did it, with the help of 2 jacks. Now my steering wheel is off a bit to the right. I measured the spacing of my tires' position in the wheel well on both sides and it appears I need to loosen the subframe and shift/rotate it clockwise a tad bit? Good times.
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 Old 01-26-2015, 11:34 AM   #44
 
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Damnit! I wish I had seen this a month ago before sending my car to the shop for bushings. I've been trying to play around with performing the maintenance on my car myself and this would have been a good one.
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 Old 01-26-2015, 11:38 AM   #45
 
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Its a pain in the ass job for sure. You can get them off with a 3/8th air ratchet after you've broken them loose of course. Although I recognize most guys don't have air tools.

Subframes are often that way when youre working on your back...easy to take down, a pain in the ass to get up.
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 Old 03-26-2015, 01:43 PM   #46
 
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I'll just leave this here ............


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 Old 03-26-2015, 01:46 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by davros View Post
I'll just leave this here ............



Shiny.
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 Old 03-28-2015, 07:23 PM   #48
 
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Small hands are the best thing to have when doing this. Takes a bit of time figuring out the angles to come in from, but only took around an hour and a half. Wobble head ratchet is the only thing I used besides PB blaster.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 04:43 AM   #49
 
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I didn't need any pb which I was nicely surprised at


Plus look at how shitty the stockers are ......

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 Old 03-29-2015, 06:55 AM   #50
 
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At least they used a thick bracket. Your new one looks like they made it with a paperclip.
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 Old 03-29-2015, 08:23 AM   #51
 
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Not to mention, the "rubber" used for the OEM bushings is about as stiff as all of the PU aftermarket options.

My originals lasted ~60K+ miles without problems, so I used new OEMs when I did this (despite the fact that I had "collected" every other available option over the years before I actually replaced them).

TL;DR - I know a few folks whose PU aftermarket bushings failed in less time/mileage than OEMs typically last, so I used OEM.
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 Old 04-09-2015, 06:08 PM   #52
 
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I plan on doing this job shortly. I just purchased an 08 and it needs some suspension refreshing to fix clunks. This thread was super informative, I will have to post back after I see how it goes. In case anyone is in here looking the part numbers the oem front bushings are B37F34156B
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 Old 12-19-2015, 07:05 PM   #53
 
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Currently in the middle of this. Small hands definitely. Can't seem to get full power on the bolts so that I can break torque, Spent the last three days soaking them in PB Blaster, Gonna pick up a longer wrench or a Bent 3/8" with a swivel head and see if I can get better cranking power on the bolts.

Alright, Updating this post for people who are having trouble getting it off. Due to improper bushings. I had to tear the system down again.

I used the following tools.

Medium 3/8's socket wrench with a regular 14mm socket.
Harbor Freight 3/8's 17 inch breaker bar.

For those of you wondering how I got that breaker in there, it's important to note that my car has zero rust and never spent a winter in a rust area. I soaked the bolts every night for about 3 days (upon inspection of the bolts... this seemed to do jack shit) while I was working on the rest of my suspension. I managed to get the breaker bar, with a medium socket, from and East/West direction. The handle sat right below the stock downpipe right in front of the exhaust hangers and it gave me just enough room and leverage to crack the bolts loose. I then used my smaller socket wrench to finish up the job.

be very careful with this method as there are metal lines, fuel and otherwise very close to the swinging track of the breaker bar. I braced the bar with my fingers/hands in such a way where I used hand leverage to get the bolts loose. once I cracked it a little, I followed the rest of the instructions on this front page to get the job done. YMMV if you have rust. I did mine with 80k miles on the car, and leverage is absolutely important, even if you can get just a little bit.

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 Old 12-22-2015, 12:34 PM   #54
 
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Was quoted $160 (lowest after haggling) which was still too much espeically when the bushings only cost like $15. Gonna attempt the install. Wish i had a garage so i could jack the car up and let the bolts soak in liquid wrench just in case... living in a townhome community, some jackass neighbor would prob complain to management if i left my car on jacks over night. I will atempt this during the holiday break. Wish i could do it now just cause im tired of the clunk ... was hoping replacing the endlinks would do the trip but nope...


I have flexible racheting wrenches but they may not be enough to get to the bolts and having enough leverage to loosen the bolts im assuming (not sure if linking wrenches works for racheting wrenches). May have to pick up a few of the tools mentioned on here even if may not be needed and return whatever i dont end up using. Would a U-Join flexible socket adapter not help in the tight situations?


Originally Posted by davros View Post
I'll just leave this here ............


Can someone explain how this would help?


I have a 3/8 flexible head ratchet that i pretty much use as a breaker bar. Like this:




Not sure if the curve/angle from the quoted picture helped alot with getting to the bushing bracket but if it does, compared to what i have, then i may just pick the up.. could always return it lol.

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 Old 12-23-2015, 01:42 PM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by lreyes66 View Post
Was quoted $160 (lowest after haggling) which was still too much espeically when the bushings only cost like $15. Gonna attempt the install. Wish i had a garage so i could jack the car up and let the bolts soak in liquid wrench just in case... living in a townhome community, some jackass neighbor would prob complain to management if i left my car on jacks over night. I will atempt this during the holiday break. Wish i could do it now just cause im tired of the clunk ... was hoping replacing the endlinks would do the trip but nope...


I have flexible racheting wrenches but they may not be enough to get to the bolts and having enough leverage to loosen the bolts im assuming (not sure if linking wrenches works for racheting wrenches). May have to pick up a few of the tools mentioned on here even if may not be needed and return whatever i dont end up using. Would a U-Join flexible socket adapter not help in the tight situations?




Can someone explain how this would help?


I have a 3/8 flexible head ratchet that i pretty much use as a breaker bar. Like this:



Not sure if the curve/angle from the quoted picture helped alot with getting to the bushing bracket but if it does, compared to what i have, then i may just pick the up.. could always return it lol.
Here's a video of how I set the breaker bar for my final torque. not the most ideal angle, and it's hard to get a torque wrench up there so you're going to have to guess and check. I guessed based on the amount of breaking torque the bolts required and tried to get a good feel for how tight they needed to be, tiny bit of thread tight and I'm satisfied

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 Old 12-23-2015, 10:23 PM   #56
 
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Thanks. Gives me a good idea on where n how to angle my breaker bar. Plan on using blue loctite just in case I dont torque it correctly.

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 Old 12-24-2015, 08:00 AM   #57
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My solution was to let my local shop do it for $75 in labor.

I am getting too old for PITA work like this...
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 Old 12-29-2015, 07:33 AM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by cld12pk2go View Post
My solution was to let my local shop do it for $75 in labor.

I am getting too old for PITA work like this...
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 Old 12-30-2015, 11:56 AM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by cld12pk2go View Post
My solution was to let my local shop do it for $75 in labor.

I am getting too old for PITA work like this...
Dont blame you, as one of the local Nator guys said to me after helping me with mine;

"If I have to do this on my car, im selling it"
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 Old 12-30-2015, 02:06 PM   #60
 
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Knocked it out today. Took 2 1/2 hours and didnt need pb blaster to loosen the bolts. Indeed was a PITA and for the time spent, wish it added HP lol... but oh lawd 1/2 mercy... the knock and clunk is finally gone!!!


All i really needed was the flexible breakbar/rachet i posted above and a flexible 14mm racheting wrench.
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 Old 06-07-2016, 03:00 PM   #61
 
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So I want to do this repair as well but I already have the endlinks off, control arms off, and the struts out. Would it be worth it to drop the subframe still or should I have enough room to do this? I have the necessary tools but am wondering if it is worth the extra effort for the subframe. How much effort is it to take off at this point?
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 Old 06-07-2016, 03:04 PM   #62
 
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you should have plenty of room to do it without dropping the subframe IMO. I had the best luck with the car up on ramps in the rear, jack stands in the front and centering my body under the downpipe and working around that. I didn't really think it was all that difficult actually maybe I just got lucky.
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 Old 06-15-2016, 12:11 PM   #63
 
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I was able to do this easily with the control arms out. I had plenty of space but had to use the closed end of my wrenches with a breaker bar. It helps of the wrench is angled or if you have a flex head. Ironically the 4 sway bar bushings and brackets I bought were 1.25" ones which don't fit the stock sway bar. I just greased up the old ones and put them back on.
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 Old 08-09-2018, 06:43 AM   #64
 
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Reviving an old thread I realize. If I’m doing struts and springs. Can I do everything from the side to avoid all these headaches or does it need to be done from under the car?
Thanks in Advance for any info, sorry o revive such an old thread.

Reviving an old thread I realize. If I’m doing struts and springs. Can I do everything from the side to avoid all these headaches or does it need to be done from under the car?
Thanks in Advance for any info, sorry o revive such an old thread.

Last edited by Sierra248; 08-09-2018 at 06:43 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 08-09-2018, 02:09 PM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by Sierra248 View Post
Reviving an old thread I realize. If I’m doing struts and springs. Can I do everything from the side to avoid all these headaches or does it need to be done from under the car?
Thanks in Advance for any info, sorry o revive such an old thread.

Reviving an old thread I realize. If I’m doing struts and springs. Can I do everything from the side to avoid all these headaches or does it need to be done from under the car?
Thanks in Advance for any info, sorry o revive such an old thread.
What do you mean by "everything"? This thread is about replacing sway bar bushings without having to remove the subframe. That is all. But, I'll try to help.

To do the sway bar bushings you must have the car up on a lift or jackstands and must get under the engine and transaxle. You will have your feet pointing out of the middle of the front of the car, lying flat on your back, facing upward looking at the two sway bar brackets and the bushings in each. If you are doing the struts, you may be able to reach in and access the sway bar bracket bolts and bushings from the side, but I've never tried to do them at the same time,

Now, if your "everything" also includes doing struts and shocks and end links, there are different threads here about that. You might want to read them before proceeding.

All of this requires that the car be up on a lift or on jack stands. The suspension must be allowed to completely droop.

The front struts can be replaced without getting under the car, as far as I recall, but obviously the wheel must come off. Do you have the correct tools? You need a spring compressor. It is helpful to also have an impact wrench for the big cross bolt that holds the bottom of the strut in place, as it is likely to be very tight, and some sort of pinch bar to spread the yoke to release the bottom of the strut. I used a reversed bolt to press it open. You need to read the threads.

I found it is good to have a separate jack to lift and lower the lower control arm that the struts connects to position things properly. A small bottle jack works fine for this. It is a good time to replace the front end links, as you have to undo each of them to do the strut removal and replacement.

Rear shocks can be done without compressing and removing the springs. You will have to get under the car for that. Same with the rear end links. Under the car.
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 Old 08-09-2018, 02:10 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by Sierra248 View Post
Reviving an old thread I realize. If I’m doing struts and springs. Can I do everything from the side to avoid all these headaches or does it need to be done from under the car?
Thanks in Advance for any info, sorry o revive such an old thread.


It is possible but headaches abound. Since the vehicle is up on stands, it is not that much extra work (unless you're all rusted out) to get under there and pull the 2nd cat. All it takes is the mid-brace's eight 10mm bolts and four 12mm exhaust bolts to get to the sway bushings.
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