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 Old 06-25-2017, 08:21 PM   #41
 
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I used your instructions to swap my bearing with an OEM replacement. Thanks much!

I also bought a National 510096 Wheel Bearing for the other side. Ill let you all know if its a viable alternative when I get to it and the carrier bearing.

As for your instructions, you don't absolutely need the "screw press". It can all be done with a small sledge. You can use the old bearing you pushed out to smack the new bearing into the hub. Its friction fit so you dont need any assembly lube.

You dont need to buy a new c clip either. Just reuse the old one.

Here are the torque specs.

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 Old 08-30-2017, 01:12 PM   #42
 
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National 510096 front Wheel Bearing fits Gen1 Speed3 BUT THE TONE RING IS NOT READ BY THE ABS SENSOR. National claims its for ABS cars and its listed in ROCKAUTO with a heart but it didnt work for me. Total waste of time.

I switched ABS sensors from one side to the other and checked continuity in the ABS wire. Even after cancelling the ABS/DSC dash lights 3 times, they kept coming back. I even took the hub off again to make sure I had put it in correctly.

Maybe this part is faulty. I am perplexed. I did the other side with an OEM bearing and it worked without issue.

Last edited by Lex2007; 09-04-2017 at 08:37 AM.
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 Old 09-04-2017, 08:31 AM   #43
 
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It's installed correctly but no signal received:

[IMG]IMG_20170831_201511655[1] by xcvx4, on Flickr[/IMG]


Installed an OEM bearing and dash lights gone.

Do not use National bearing 510096 for Mazdaspeed 3.
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Last edited by Lex2007; 09-08-2017 at 08:47 PM.
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 Old 09-15-2017, 01:28 PM   #44
 
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Just bought a TIMKEN WB000028 wheel bearing + TIMKEN C-Clip from amazon just incase i do indeed have to replace my bearings when i do my brakes.

Do i have to replace the axle nut too? Replacing the front wheel bearing thats still on original stock. If i do have to replace the nut, does it have to be OEM or can i get the one on rockauto?
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 Old 09-15-2017, 04:30 PM   #45
 
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Originally Posted by lreyes66 View Post
Just bought a TIMKEN WB000028 wheel bearing + TIMKEN C-Clip from amazon just incase i do indeed have to replace my bearings when i do my brakes.

Do i have to replace the axle nut too? Replacing the front wheel bearing thats still on original stock. If i do have to replace the nut, does it have to be OEM or can i get the one on rockauto?
You didnt need a c clip. The original is reusable.

You dont NEED to replace the axle nut as long as you can fold the end into the groove at the end of the axle to lock it in place once its torqued to spec. Sometimes the metal at the end of the nut breaks off from being folded a few times. But its better to replace if you have one handy. Autozone sells them for $6.

No you dont need to replace the bearing when doing brakes. How many miles on your bearing?
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 Old 09-15-2017, 06:25 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
You didnt need a c clip. The original is reusable.

You dont NEED to replace the axle nut as long as you can fold the end into the groove at the end of the axle to lock it in place once its torqued to spec. Sometimes the metal at the end of the nut breaks off from being folded a few times. But its better to replace if you have one handy. Autozone sells them for $6.

No you dont need to replace the bearing when doing brakes. How many miles on your bearing?
I'm getting noise coming from the wheel area. Between 20-35mph and if it's not my pads or rotor it prob has to be the bearings. One bearing already changed. 85k.

That's the beauty of amazon prime. If I don't need it I can return it. The nut actually looks pretty good, prob cause I replaced the cv axles just last year.

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 Old 09-15-2017, 06:41 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by lreyes66 View Post
I'm getting noise coming from the wheel area. Between 20-35mph and if it's not my pads or rotor it prob has to be the bearings. One bearing already changed. 85k.

That's the beauty of amazon prime. If I don't need it I can return it. The nut actually looks pretty good, prob cause I replaced the cv axles just last year.

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Well changing a bearing is way more work than changing pads and rotors but you might as well change the pads while your changing the bearing since the brake caliper and rotor need to come off.

Unless you describe the noise I can't know if the bearing is the possible source of the noise.
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 Old 09-19-2017, 11:50 AM   #48
 
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OP, did a jaw pull + slide hammer not help remove the hub from the axel?


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 Old 09-19-2017, 12:08 PM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by lreyes66 View Post
OP, did a jaw pull + slide hammer not help remove the hub from the axel?
Those axles can get very stuck. You may need to use a hydraulic jaw puller and or let it soak overnight in PB Blaster or something else.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton...ler-66657.html
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 Old 09-19-2017, 01:00 PM   #50
 
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Thanks. Just trying to determine what I do and don't need to rent from advanced Auto loan a tool.

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 Old 09-19-2017, 01:13 PM   #51
 
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Some guys rap the entire end in a rag soaked in PB blaster. Kinda awkward.

If you get desperate you can heat it with a torch with the wheel speed sensor removed from the hub/knuckle but only if you plan to change the bearing afterwards.

Do you have a brass punch you can smash on the axle end with or brass end for an air hammer? (I assume not). If not the hydraulic puller will work but make sure and spray the splines from both sides with PB Blaster or equivalent and let it sit a few hours.
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 Old 03-15-2018, 12:10 AM   #52
 
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Awesome write up is this for the genpu


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 Old 01-12-2019, 12:27 PM   #53
 
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Just completed this job on my 2012 mazdaspeed3 at 156000 miles. Everything is the same, parts and instructions.

Since this thread helped me out a lot I'm going to add some info myself.

The WB000028 timken bearings are the correct part number for our cars. Conformation is always nice. No issues with ABS.
Also the c-clip RET166 from timken Is the correct part

I bought mine off Amazon, I went with the timken bearing as they are made in Japan. From what I could gather SKF are from Mexico.


As for the hubs mine were seized to bad, I bought new ones. Save yourself the time and get new ones.
They can be picked up at any local parts store. Dont ask for a mazda3 hub, ask for a (2010) mazda6 w/2.5L (3.*L is different) hub they are the exact same and they come with a new axle nut, which is a plus.

From Autozone: Duralast wheel hub spindle
Part number: 930-551
64$ each after tax


As for the hub bearing installer, only select stores carry this loaner tool. Call before you go to the parts store. I had to drive to Autozone's main center to get my hands on one, as the two locals ones were on hold and missing. I went with the tool over a hammer because I don't like beating new parts in. The one from harbor freight is not a quality tool.

If you don't want to invest in any power tools.
A good vise will make this a lot easier on yourself, as you can go slow and be in control. Go buy one, they are always useful.

Part number for Autozone loner tool is 648741T
@175$ to rent, be prepared for that.


One thing I want to correct from the original instructions. When installing the hub back in the new bearing do not use the setup shown in the photos. You will be smashing the bearing into the spindle after taking all that time trying not to go to far.

I recommend reversing the plates on his setup. Small plate on the back of the bearing (always make sure its centered before pressing). And a big enough plate to rest on top of the centric ring. This will make it so you are not moving the bearing while installing the hub.
Added photos to help.
Always get everything started evenly and always make sure you're center.


I hope this helps some Gen2 owners out there and others on this quest.

JR
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 Old 01-13-2019, 03:28 PM   #54
 
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Thanks for sharing. Glad the Timkens worked for you.

You just needed a bigger hammer to smash the old spindle out. I like the hammer technique more than a bearing pusher puller. More fun.
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