How To: Install From & Rear MOOG End Links

[Constantin]

The other day I have replaced my stock end links with MOOG end links. First of all to get rid of the clanking noise in the back. Second, end links tend to go bad, so it makes sense to replace them.

MOOG end links are far better then stock (see pics). They are not adjustable, and can be lubricated.

I got them from AdvanceAutoParts with free shipping and 15% discount, total: $172
MOOG Front End Links (K750073)
MOOG Rear End Links (K750069)

There are other alternatives (see my post here), but I have not found much information about them...

This is an easy install. Make sure you have an extra jeck stand. I would recommend getting impact gun (electric if you don't have air compressor) to make your life easier.

Here is the set up when replacing rear end links. Same thing goes for front set up. Main thing here is to use a jack to lift the rear spring up and easily replace the end links.


Make sure to screw the tip on the angle to easily lubricated the end link when they are installed.


Here you can see stock end links vs. MOOG. Clearly there is big difference. MOOG is much thicker, better quality. Actually my stock left rear end link was slightly bent. That will never happen with MOOG.




Cataphract_40 made some good pictures of MOOG end links here.

Enjoy!

[3mazdaspeed]

What is your car lowered with?

[Hectik1]

Damn those are beefy! I may have to pick these up!

[671 grains of reason]

i got the racing beat ones with my rear sway, they look tough and have a nice weight. i think im gonna get moog in the front, the endlinks boots feel dry rotted.

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by 3mazdaspeed What is your car lowered with?

No. It has stock shocks and springs. MOOG End Links are OEM replacement, but much better then OEM.

Originally Posted by pursuit_special i got the racing beat ones with my rear sway, they look tough and have a nice weight. i think im gonna get moog in the front, the endlinks boots feel dry rotted.

Why do you want/have different end links in front and rear?

[671 grains of reason]

racing beat dont make front ones just rears for thick swaybars. so i have to go with moog on the front or oem.

[kerseyms3]

picking up a pair of these soon. kinda sucks having your car on a lift and find out your rear driver end link is stripped and the sway bar is just hanging there

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by kerseyms3 kinda sucks having your car on a lift and find out your rear driver end link is stripped and the sway bar is just hanging there

I had the same thing on my old car. When I installed new end links, the car felt much better

[kunfu]

Thanks man, I will probably be doing this soon. Clunking noise is annoying as hell.

[kerseyms3]

Originally Posted by Constantin I had the same thing on my old car. When I installed new end links, the car felt much better

yea, ive only had the car since last august, and as far as i know, its been stripped the whole time so ill be even more impressed with the car once i get it fixed. only thing is money, as you can see is a problem since my name is still brown

[franz]

FYI they are much cheaper at Rockauto.com. Shipped to my address they are only $131.70 and that was without free shipping and promo codes.

That is where I got mine from. They solved the noise in the front, but I still have something making noise in the rear. Replacing shocks soon and will look at stabilizer bushings too.

Besides the grease fittings and better construction its also important to note that the MOOG parts dont require that stupid allen key to remove/tighten.

[kerseyms3]

thanks, that'll help me out since im a poor college student, but i only need the rear links so mine wont be bad at all. its fine to have the moog rear with the stock front right?

[franz]

Originally Posted by kerseyms3 thanks, that'll help me out since im a poor college student, but i only need the rear links so mine wont be bad at all. its fine to have the moog rear with the stock front right?

Yes that is fine. Its an OEM part made by another company.

[kerseyms3]

Originally Posted by franz Yes that is fine. Its an OEM part made by another company.

cool, thanks.

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by franz FYI they are much cheaper at Rockauto.com. Shipped to my address they are only $131.70 and that was without free shipping and promo codes. That is where I got mine from. They solved the noise in the front, but I still have something making noise in the rear. Replacing shocks soon and will look at stabilizer bushings too. Besides the grease fittings and better construction its also important to note that the MOOG parts dont require that stupid allen key to remove/tighten.

Man that is a big difference. Thx for the tip!

Let us know it changing the shocks and bushings made a difference. I also still have noise in the back. I suspect my shocks are done. Nice excuse to get Koni FSD Sport

[SLOWHATCH]

Me likey. Thanks / subbed.

[Uberfly]

Originally Posted by Constantin MOOG End Links are OEM replacement, but much better then OEM.

Originally Posted by franz Yes that is fine. Its an OEM part made by another company.

where are you guys finding the info that these are OEM replacements? the reason i ask is because i tried going to a Moog dealer site and they didn't list anything specifically for the speed 3. they only listed parts(the PNs you have in your first post) for the regular 3.

I also called up Napa, who says they carry Moog parts, but they couldn't find any PN for the speed 3. when i gave him the two part numbers above, he said they were being called out under the regular 3 series.

I called the dealership and asked if the 3 and a speed 3 had interchangeable sway bar links, and they told me no.


So, what i'd like to find is some Moog website that says those PNs are for a speed3 specifically, and not just the regular 3. I know that rockauto and AAP list them as a fit, but i'm concerned they may have made an error or applied it to all of the 3's instead of ommitting the speed 3.

[franz]

Originally Posted by Uberfly where are you guys finding the info that these are OEM replacements? the reason i ask is because i tried going to a Moog dealer site and they didn't list anything specifically for the speed 3. they only listed parts(the PNs you have in your first post) for the regular 3. I also called up Napa, who says they carry Moog parts, but they couldn't find any PN for the speed 3. when i gave him the two part numbers above, he said they were being called out under the regular 3 series. I called the dealership and asked if the 3 and a speed 3 had interchangeable sway bar links, and they told me no. So, what i'd like to find is some Moog website that says those PNs are for a speed3 specifically, and not just the regular 3. I know that rockauto and AAP list them as a fit, but i'm concerned they may have made an error or applied it to all of the 3's instead of ommitting the speed 3.

That is a good point because the MZ3 have different size holes on the antiroll bar, 10mm(MZ3) vs 12mm(MS3) I believe. I did not install my links, so I do not know how well the stud fit on the roll bars. When I tear it apart at the install day I will get a closer look. That may be why my rear is still clunking.

Mazdaspeed3 Endlinks:
B37F34170A Front
B37F28170A Rear

Mazda3 Endlinks:
BP4K34170D Front
BP4K28170E Rear

Sometimes the last letter of these parts changes with revisions, so you might see a B or C instead of an A on the MS3 parts.

Moog Endlinks: According to RockAuto

MS3 Front K750073
MS3 Rear K750069

MZ3 Front K80235
MZ3 Rear K80867

[InFeXIoN]

Im running moog in the front right now temporarily till I swap them for adj ones this weekend. But they are shorter Endlinks than stock because im lowered. 9 inches center to center. So there are other options with moog. Also they can be easily be found at advanced auto or oreileys.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by franz That is a good point because the MZ3 have different size holes on the antiroll bar, 10mm(MZ3) vs 12mm(MS3) I believe. I did not install my links, so I do not know how well the stud fit on the roll bars. When I tear it apart at the install day I will get a closer look. That may be why my rear is still clunking.

When I installed mine, the oke did not seam bigger then the end link - it was tinpght fit. I don't think it will cause clanking.

Here is another thread where guys have installed MOOG and are very happy: Clanking from rear..

Please post the measurements when you get to he install.

[Haggis3]

A bit late, but....

I ordered the rear links (K750069), but I cannot see how to tighten the top nut. There is no way I can get a wrench on the top wrench flat: it's deep inside the control arm. So the nut can't be tightened.

How did you tighten the top nut on the rear links?

[InitialE]

I stuck a wrench inside the control arm and then used a ratcheting wrench to tighten the nut. It's tight and you might have trouble taking the wrench out of the control arm after you tightened it but it works.

[Hectik1]

Ratcheting wrentches are your friend.

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by Haggis3 A bit late, but.... I ordered the rear links (K750069), but I cannot see how to tighten the top nut. There is no way I can get a wrench on the top wrench flat: it's deep inside the control arm. So the nut can't be tightened. How did you tighten the top nut on the rear links?

Use open ended wrench. I had no real problems getting this one tight.

[Haggis3]

I bought some cheap crowfoot wrenches & used those to hold the upper wrench flat. For reference, the upper wrench flat is 14mm, upper nut is 15mm,.

Overall, I'm not sure I'd recommend these links:

1. The Moog links do look sturdier, but the quality is not as good as OEM. For example, the OEM links have spring clips to keep the dust boots closed - the Moog links do not & I can already see the Moog dust boots moving enough to expose the bearing.
2. The upper wrench flat is a complete PITA compared to the OEM hex wrench/allen key.
3. Using the stiffest setting on my Corksport sway bar, the upper grease nipple is almost hitting the suspension arm. Once the suspension is in motion, I think the upper grease nipple will take quite a bit of abuse....

[Gellous]

bump.
are the fronts the same for both the speed3 and 6?
looked em up and found these. I'm assuming the 750xxx number is for the fronts? Not 100% sure here...

Sway Bar Endlinks | StreetPerformance.com

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by Gellous bump. are the fronts the same for both the speed3 and 6? looked em up and found these. I'm assuming the 750xxx number is for the fronts? Not 100% sure here... Sway Bar Endlinks | StreetPerformance.com

I have no idea... But if you find out the length of MS6 front end links, I will measure mine and let you know.

[Gellous]

Originally Posted by Constantin I have no idea... But if you find out the length of MS6 front end links, I will measure mine and let you know.

awesome, when I get done with classes tomorrow i'll get a measurement.

[Gellous]

well, i figured out i'd try and do some more research since i have time between classes... no they aren't the same part apparently.
tits.
thanks anyway constantin though

[InitialE]

I installed the front end links over the weekend to fix my clunking issue and noticed the upper grease nipple touching the wheel well when the wheel is turning.

From the looks of it, I don't think this is a problem with oem springs/shocks because I don't see Constantin mentioning anything about it. I'm on Koni FSD with eibach pro-kit, not sure if the mounting point is higher or lower on the oem shocks because I got the car with the Koni's on already.

What I did temporary was tape the hole where the upper grease nipple goes with duck tape, any suggestions on what I should do?

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by InitialE I installed the front end links over the weekend to fix my clunking issue and noticed the upper grease nipple touching the wheel well when the wheel is turning. From the looks of it, I don't think this is a problem with oem springs/shocks because I don't see Constantin mentioning anything about it. I'm on Koni FSD with eibach pro-kit, not sure if the mounting point is higher or lower on the oem shocks because I got the car with the Koni's on already. What I did temporary was tape the hole where the upper grease nipple goes with duck tape, any suggestions on what I should do?

I know for fact that depending on the set up you get (especially with coilovers) you have to use shorter from end links. For example, mounting points on TIN coilovers are lower, which requires shorter from end links for proper suspension set up. Where as KW coilovers, have end link mounting point moved "up", so stock end link can be used.

I don't know how it is with Koni. You might want to read up on Koni installation threads to find out if stock lengh end links will be OK for you...

And yes, I have no clearance problems with MOOG endlinks with stock suspension set up.

BTW, did they fix your noise issue?

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by Constantin I know for fact that depending on the set up you get (especially with coilovers) you have to use shorter from end links. For example, mounting points on TIN coilovers are lower, which requires shorter from end links for proper suspension set up. Where as KW coilovers, have end link mounting point moved "up", so stock end link can be used. I don't know how it is with Koni. You might want to read up on Koni installation threads to find out if stock lengh end links will be OK for you... And yes, I have no clearance problems with MOOG endlinks with stock suspension set up. BTW, did they fix your noise issue?

The mounting point on KWs (and Mazdaspeed Coilovers) is actually lower than on the OEM struts too...

I am running ~1" shorter endlinks at my ride height in order to get the bar's static orientation corrected.

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 The mounting point on KWs (and Mazdaspeed Coilovers) is actually lower than on the OEM struts too... I am running ~1" shorter endlinks at my ride height in order to get the bar's static orientation corrected.

Thx for correction! I got this information from a NATOR member whom I helped install those KW V1... Granted, I have never measured stock vs. KW mounting set up...
Sid3wayS, see what Nliiitend1 said!!! Get the right endlinks

[InitialE]

Originally Posted by Constantin I know for fact that depending on the set up you get (especially with coilovers) you have to use shorter from end links. For example, mounting points on TIN coilovers are lower, which requires shorter from end links for proper suspension set up. Where as KW coilovers, have end link mounting point moved "up", so stock end link can be used. I don't know how it is with Koni. You might want to read up on Koni installation threads to find out if stock lengh end links will be OK for you... And yes, I have no clearance problems with MOOG endlinks with stock suspension set up. BTW, did they fix your noise issue?

The old end links on my car were stock so i thought it was fine for me to put oem replacements on.

It did fix my clunking issue, at first i thought it was my sway bar bushings according to this video and from the driver seat the noise sounds like it's coming from the driver side. Turns out the upper nut of the passenger side end link was loose, causing all that clunking.

When I shake the car from side to side you can definitely hear it, I had a buddy shake the car for me while I stuck my arm in the wheel well and I can feel the ABS line bracket moving.

Did the install and both the upper and lower nut of the passenger side were seized. Took me a while to get it out but not without cutting it.

Worn Sway Bar Bushing sound - YouTube

Worn Sway Bar Bushing sound - YouTube

[lup15]

Originally Posted by InitialE I installed the front end links over the weekend to fix my clunking issue and noticed the upper grease nipple touching the wheel well when the wheel is turning. From the looks of it, I don't think this is a problem with oem springs/shocks because I don't see Constantin mentioning anything about it. I'm on Koni FSD with eibach pro-kit, not sure if the mounting point is higher or lower on the oem shocks because I got the car with the Koni's on already. What I did temporary was tape the hole where the upper grease nipple goes with duck tape, any suggestions on what I should do?

I have the same issue with Bilstein B8. the end link without the grease nipple JUST clears the wheel well and actually scraped some of the sound deadening material. putting any sort of plug will still foul imo

[phahengpro]

Hey Constantin,

How are the Moogs holding up? I have new Moogs in my garage and am waiting for the time to put them on (may do the rears tomorrow). Did you torque yours to the 30/35lbs that are stated on the directions with the rear endlinks or did you really get on them.
That just doesn't seem all that tight. When I replaced my swaybar I tightened the endlinks tighter than that. Thanks for the info!

By the way....if anyone is interested, I got the front and rear endlinks off of Ebay for $130 shipped. After buying them I found them even cheaper at rockauto. I believe they were about $110

JR

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by phahengpro Hey Constantin, How are the Moogs holding up? I have new Moogs in my garage and am waiting for the time to put them on (may do the rears tomorrow). Did you torque yours to the 30/35lbs that are stated on the directions with the rear endlinks or did you really get on them. That just doesn't seem all that tight. When I replaced my swaybar I tightened the endlinks tighter than that. Thanks for the info! By the way....if anyone is interested, I got the front and rear endlinks off of Ebay for $130 shipped. After buying them I found them even cheaper at rockauto. I believe they were about $110 JR

Ending links are just fine. No issues what so ever. I didn't use torque ranch on them... and yes 35 lbs does not seem enough. From what I know, you have to tighten end links (especially to sway bar) and sway bar itself VERY tight to make sure no clunking will appear.

[phahengpro]

Constantin,

I put the rear endlinks on today. The clunk is gone from the back. I started on the front but have not been able to get the bottom nuts off of the stock endlinks. I soaked them with wd40 and said FI til tomorrow. Did you do anything special to get them loose? I may have to head to the store and buy a disc grinder and cut those bastards off. Thanks!!

[Constantin]

Originally Posted by phahengpro Constantin, I put the rear endlinks on today. The clunk is gone from the back. I started on the front but have not been able to get the bottom nuts off of the stock endlinks. I soaked them with wd40 and said FI til tomorrow. Did you do anything special to get them loose? I may have to head to the store and buy a disc grinder and cut those bastards off. Thanks!!

No, nothing special. BUT I have an electric impact gun Local NATOR guys call it Thor's Hammer... gets all the bolts loose

[phahengpro]

Me too. I can't seem to get at the bottom. Even with a universal socket I can't get the angle. If they don't soak loose with the wd-40 I'm going to use that as an excuse to buy a disc grinder and cut them off in the am. Thanks for the response (the back endlinks made a world of difference).