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 Old 12-31-2009, 09:07 AM   #1
 
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Default How to install a Reverse Light HID Kit

Well for the life of me I cant get this to post right so maybe someone can help me out with it, but nonetheless heres the how to. This kit is amazing, only complaint I have is that it is a 6000K instead of a 5000k which imo would be better for those who have very dark tint. Regardless its a huge improvement over stock.

Update: There was alot of rattling noise coming from all of the wires installed in the hatch so Ive installed bubble wrap around everything to keep it quite.

Update II: I installed a distribution block for my amp and moved the fuse for the hids as close to the block as possible. Also changed fuse down to a 20amp since the new digital hids use <6amps for startup and 3.4amps for normal operation.

With 5% tint on all windows these still provide enough light to back up.
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 Old 01-01-2010, 10:06 AM   #2
 
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nice, good write up man i might get me a set because stock ones suck
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 Old 01-01-2010, 03:23 PM   #3
 
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There sweet I cant wait for the next assclown to ride up my ass at a stop light, cuz Im gonna blind the shit out of them.
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 Old 01-02-2010, 02:45 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by nyghtryder View Post
There sweet I cant wait for the next assclown to ride up my ass at a stop light, cuz Im gonna blind the shit out of them.
ha, yep, and need to make a by-pass switch to light them up for those idiots riding their high beams behind you.
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 Old 01-02-2010, 06:23 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Abysal View Post
ha, yep, and need to make a by-pass switch to light them up for those idiots riding their high beams behind you.
5% tint takes care of that
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 Old 01-02-2010, 09:08 AM   #6
 
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Nice write-up. One question tho, wouldn't it be better to have the hot wire from a switched source rather than right off the battery? Just a thought, not trying to start anything.
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 Old 01-02-2010, 09:09 AM   #7
 
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Very nice
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 Old 01-02-2010, 08:50 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by CosmicArkie View Post
Nice write-up. One question tho, wouldn't it be better to have the hot wire from a switched source rather than right off the battery? Just a thought, not trying to start anything.
Not really sure why I would need it from a switch. There is an inline fuse and the only way the lights can turn on is when the car is in reverse. The battery tap only supplies power once the signal wire from the oem reverse lights go on. The relay on the wire harness acts as a switch.
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 Old 01-06-2010, 03:44 PM   #9
 
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Nice write up.
I do highly recommend that you move the fuse closer to the battery. 12" is a common reference used in car audio.
The reason is that: if the power wire grounded out before the fuse, it would not stop the wire from getting super hot and melting or causing a fire. Which is why the fuse should be under the hood by the battery.
Basically the fuse only protects what is after it (to include wire, electronics, etc).
Also you might be close to the current limits of that 14awg wire. Not too sure how long your wire is. 12awg might be a better choice.
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 Old 01-06-2010, 03:52 PM   #10
 
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I was thinking about using 12ga as well, however the harness itself is 16ga. I didnt want to setup too far and I thought that 12ga may have been too aggressive. The wire doesnt get hot and the kit really isnt on for a significant amount of time.

There really isnt any place that the wire can ground out. It doesnt go through any metal without grommets. But it couldnt hurt to mount it under the hood.
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 Old 01-06-2010, 04:13 PM   #11
 
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nice work, where did u mount the ballasts
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 Old 01-06-2010, 04:47 PM   #12
 
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It is a good idea to move the fuse. Fires are usually never planned...
The wire gauge should be ok. But bigger is always better
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 Old 01-09-2010, 03:17 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by mariospeedwagon View Post
nice work, where did u mount the ballasts
mounted inside of the hatch door.

Originally Posted by car46999 View Post
It is a good idea to move the fuse. Fires are usually never planned...
The wire gauge should be ok. But bigger is always better
left reverse lights on for 10min and no heat in the wire. theres absolutely no reason to move fuse closer.
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 Old 01-10-2010, 06:15 PM   #14
 
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pointless but sweet
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 Old 01-11-2010, 05:00 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by carfanatic101 View Post
pointless but sweet
whats pointless?
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 Old 01-11-2010, 05:05 PM   #16
 
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I did this using the kit from dabears2k over the weekend also.

In answer to someones question dabears said you when you do both sides you need a separate power feed from the battery and just use the original reverse power as a trigger. I'd assume the stock fuse isnt big enough or wire gauge high enough for the current these draw... not to sure if thats why though.

I agree with the OP its an awesome mod and makes it sooo much easier if you have tinted windows at night.
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 Old 01-11-2010, 05:17 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by sleeper329 View Post
I did this using the kit from dabears2k over the weekend also.

In answer to someones question dabears said you when you do both sides you need a separate power feed from the battery and just use the original reverse power as a trigger. I'd assume the stock fuse isnt big enough or wire gauge high enough for the current these draw... not to sure if thats why though.

I agree with the OP its an awesome mod and makes it sooo much easier if you have tinted windows at night.
yours is a 6000K temp as well correct.

you are correct about the current draw. The oem fuse is probably 15amp and all hid kits need to have a 30amp. The oem wire is 18-22ga so it would definately be overloaded.
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 Old 01-11-2010, 06:15 PM   #18
 
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I believe it is 6000k, and for $95 the kit is perfect even if its not. Plus they warranty their bulbs.

I have to try to get some pics up.

Did your kits bulbs have a connector that locks into the tail light like the stock bulbs do?

Mine they actually have you glue the bulbs in place.....
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 Old 01-11-2010, 06:29 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by sleeper329 View Post
I believe it is 6000k, and for $95 the kit is perfect even if its not. Plus they warranty their bulbs.

I have to try to get some pics up.

Did your kits bulbs have a connector that locks into the tail light like the stock bulbs do?

Mine they actually have you glue the bulbs in place.....
Nope mine had to be glued in too. I used epoxy instead of super glue cuz I didnt feel that the glue would really hold them in well.

I talked to debears2k about a fitting that would work with the oem reverse lights and they told me that they couldnt get a manufacturer to make them which is why were glueing them in.
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 Old 01-13-2010, 08:56 AM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by nyghtryder View Post
mounted inside of the hatch door.



left reverse lights on for 10min and no heat in the wire. theres absolutely no reason to move fuse closer.
You might have missed the point, the fuse does not protect from heat.
The fuse protects the wire and ballasts in case of a short.
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 Old 01-13-2010, 01:33 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by car46999 View Post
You might have missed the point, the fuse does not protect from heat.
The fuse protects the wire and ballasts in case of a short.
I realize that but the chance of a short is non-existent. Im trying to keep as little under the hood as possilbe so my dealer trips are easier on my warr.
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 Old 02-05-2010, 11:04 PM   #22
 
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man i gotta do this mod cause my back window is kind of too dark and i can hardly see when backin up
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 Old 02-06-2010, 08:50 AM   #23
 
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i love them as said before i just wish they were 5000k instead of 6000k.
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 Old 02-06-2010, 04:15 PM   #24
 
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isnt 6k like blueish??? i like our stock white hid headlights output, what is it like 5k?
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 Old 02-07-2010, 08:52 AM   #25
 
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6k is blue and 5k is pure white, stock is 4300k which has yellow in it.
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 Old 02-07-2010, 11:06 AM   #26
 
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i think mine are 5k bc they are pure white.
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 Old 02-07-2010, 05:59 PM   #27
 
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whod you get yours from?
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 Old 02-11-2010, 04:31 PM   #28
 
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I want to do this. I like the idea of being able to turn them on with a switch. I might try to wire that up.
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:01 PM   #29
 
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why would you need a switch?
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:04 PM   #30
 
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Originally Posted by nyghtryder View Post
whod you get yours from?
dabears2k.com


dscsk8er55: isnt putting it in reverse kind of like a switch already?
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:09 PM   #31
 
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did you specify a color?
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:13 PM   #32
 
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nope. im sure if you contact them theyd do it for you though.
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:14 PM   #33
 
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im not messing with these, i cant imagine trying to get all the epoxy off right now. Ill deal with the 6k.
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:31 PM   #34
 
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I meant for while driving and being able to turn them on for a**holes that are riding my butt.
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:36 PM   #35
 
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mmm are there pic in the write up?
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 Old 02-11-2010, 05:40 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by dscsk8er55 View Post
I meant for while driving and being able to turn them on for a**holes that are riding my butt.
ohh.. press clutch, put in reverse with clutch fully dpressed... never tried but as long as u dont come off the clutch at all that should work right?
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 Old 02-11-2010, 06:19 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by dscsk8er55 View Post
I meant for while driving and being able to turn them on for a**holes that are riding my butt.
if ppl are riding you when your not stopped , your driving too slow

Originally Posted by (toao)fallen View Post
mmm are there pic in the write up?
yep lots of them
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 Old 02-11-2010, 08:59 PM   #38
 
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rrrrrr not getting pics good write up thou
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 Old 02-11-2010, 09:11 PM   #39
 
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Did the brightness of the reverse lights change between the 1st and 2nd generations? Because I have a 2010, and the reverse lights are already really bright. Like, almost as bright as many headlights...
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 Old 02-11-2010, 09:22 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by nyghtryder View Post
im not messing with these, i cant imagine trying to get all the epoxy off right now. Ill deal with the 6k.
They sure look 5k to me.

I know that all the 5k bulbs we've been getting from DDM lately have the blue bar next to the glass. The 6k is greyish. I see in your pics that the bar is blue.
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