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-   -   HOW-TO VVT (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f33/how-vvt-140986/)

merc73 08-30-2013 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2235858)
Taking the upper sensor off is easy. I posted a procedure on the mazda3forums....with pics. google it.

Thanks lex, but I can't find it. Could you provide a link? Look, no offense to anyone here, but this forum is a cobbled up mess.. I feel lucky to have found this thread. I contributed some money for what I learned here, but navigating this forum is going to take a learning curve I don't have time for...

guitarzan134 08-31-2013 04:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merc73 (Post 2235951)
Thanks lex, but I can't find it. Could you provide a link? Look, no offense to anyone here, but this forum is a cobbled up mess.. I feel lucky to have found this thread. I contributed some money for what I learned here, but navigating this forum is going to take a learning curve I don't have time for...

You're doing it wrong.

Google Search-
Site: mazdaspeedforums.org (insert topic you want to search)

Example-
Site: mazdaspeedforums.org vvt actuator

You're welcome.

Lex2007 08-31-2013 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by merc73 (Post 2235951)
Thanks lex, but I can't find it. Could you provide a link? Look, no offense to anyone here, but this forum is a cobbled up mess.. I feel lucky to have found this thread. I contributed some money for what I learned here, but navigating this forum is going to take a learning curve I don't have time for...

Here ya go my brother: How to change / replace / R&R oxygen sensors - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum

Lex2007 09-02-2013 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2224697)
Lex after re watching and listening to your video im not so sure its vvt related. Can you post a video of start up?

Galaxy S4 Bitches, fuck an iFail!!!

Rokusek,

ok so I took videos the car being started without serpenting belt on (to isolate the pulleys) and then with the belt, AC off and then with AC on. I cannot hear any difference in the 3 scenarios. The engine is hot in all 3 cases. Not warm, but good and hot. 94 degree day, after driving her for 30 minutes.

1. This video is hot start, no serpentine belt installed, with ipad sitting on passenger side strut tower (belt side of engine).


2. Next is hot start, with the belt in place, no AC.


3. Last is hot start, with AC clicked on after starting engine (belt obviously is installed).


Thoughts?

Lex

Rokusek 09-03-2013 04:15 AM

Maybe its just me but all three of those come up as pictures to me.

You may have to upload them to youtube then link the videos here.

Galaxy S4 Bitches, fuck an iFail!!!

Lex2007 09-03-2013 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2238812)
Maybe its just me but all three of those come up as pictures to me.

You may have to upload them to youtube then link the videos here.

Galaxy S4 Bitches, fuck an iFail!!!

If you click it should link you to a video...did you click on the image?

Firewalls at work wont let upload to youtube. I will try this later and repost.

Rokusek 09-03-2013 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2239039)
If you click it should link you to a video...did you click on the image?

Tried it on my phone and on my work computer, I may have to wait till i get home to look at them.

Lex2007 09-09-2013 10:01 PM

ok I uploaded to utube and posted them above.

Mind listening to them for me?

Rokusek 09-10-2013 05:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2248473)
ok I uploaded to utube and posted them above.

Mind listening to them for me?

It does sound like the vvt. Did you pull the valve cover yet to look for chain markings?

Lex2007 09-10-2013 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2248613)
It does sound like the vvt. Did you pull the valve cover yet to look for chain markings?

No kidding? You think the non-metallic noise in the background audible after starting is VVT? Interesting.

Why does the background noise only happen when the engine is at operating temp and only at idle and off idle?

I really hate Mazda right now.

Rokusek 09-10-2013 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2249308)
No kidding? You think the non-metallic noise in the background audible after starting is VVT? Interesting.

Why does the background noise only happen when the engine is at operating temp and obnly at idle and off idle?

I really hate Mazda right now.

What i heard was a metallic sound, the non-metallic sound you are talking about seams normal to me. I could be wrong though.

Get a cold start video with someone else in the car starting it and you moving around the engine bay. It is hard to depict where a sound is coming from when the cam is sitting on the cowl.

Lex2007 09-10-2013 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2249332)
What i heard was a metallic sound, the non-metallic sound you are talking about seams normal to me. I could be wrong though.

Get a cold start video with someone else in the car starting it and you moving around the engine bay. It is hard to depict where a sound is coming from when the cam is sitting on the cowl.

Trust me, the non-metallic sound is not normal. Its bloody loud as hell. To me it sound like a pumping noise, almost like EGR or something. The first video I linked to on youtube uploaded by someone else captures it very well. Then again, I admit that it is indeed very likely to be VVT related. Or perhaps turbo related. Given the recall.


I'm gonna pull the cover and see if the timing chain is smacking the cover.

Thanks R. Youre a true assett to this forum.

15driley15 09-25-2013 11:01 AM

This is an excerpt from my messages with @Rokusek; regarding my recent swap. I feel like it basically sums up how awesome all of this really is.

"Alright my man... the VVT is swapped... the car runs like a fucking monster... and all I really have left to say is thank you. Your write-up is literally the most complete i've ever seen on msf, or maybe anywhere for that matter. It's well layed out, in a sensible order, and without it, i'd have zero chance of being where I am right now. Thanks for that.

Andrew wasn't able to be there for the swap, but another local NATOR guy (@punjar who is an ASE certified tech lent me his garage, help, and tools. The swap literally took us no more than 5 hours. Everything went as smoothly as it possibly can.. and we're pretty much in good shape...

The only thing I can really say about your write-up and support as far as improvement goes is perhaps your explanation toward the beginning of reaching TDC and how exactly to do that. It took me awhile to figure out what was going on there.. but once I did, it was straightforward. But seriously, that was no big deal.

Anyway, dude you saved my life and didn't even know it.

Thanks so much,

Devin"

This guy has put countless hours and effort into the advancement of our platform and we should really all be grateful. He's moved us further than most ever will!

Rokusek 09-25-2013 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2249347)
Trust me, the non-metallic sound is not normal. Its bloody loud as hell. To me it sound like a pumping noise, almost like EGR or something. The first video I linked to on youtube uploaded by someone else captures it very well. Then again, I admit that it is indeed very likely to be VVT related. Or perhaps turbo related. Given the recall.

07 mazda speed3 engine noise what is it - YouTube

I'm gonna pull the cover and see if the timing chain is smacking the cover.

Thanks R. Youre a true assett to this forum.

Thanks and sorry for the delay, its been a rough couple weeks for me.

I can't watch the video at work so as soon as I get home I'll open it up and see what I think.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 15driley15 (Post 2270070)
This is an excerpt from my messages with Rokusek; regarding my recent swap. I feel like it basically sums up how awesome all of this really is.

"Alright my man... the VVT is swapped... the car runs like a fucking monster... and all I really have left to say is thank you. Your write-up is literally the most complete i've ever seen on msf, or maybe anywhere for that matter. It's well layed out, in a sensible order, and without it, i'd have zero chance of being where I am right now. Thanks for that.

Andrew wasn't able to be there for the swap, but another local NATOR guy (@punjar who is an ASE certified tech lent me his garage, help, and tools. The swap literally took us no more than 5 hours. Everything went as smoothly as it possibly can.. and we're pretty much in good shape...

The only thing I can really say about your write-up and support as far as improvement goes is perhaps your explanation toward the beginning of reaching TDC and how exactly to do that. It took me awhile to figure out what was going on there.. but once I did, it was straightforward. But seriously, that was no big deal.

Anyway, dude you saved my life and didn't even know it.

Thanks so much,

Devin"

This guy has put countless hours and effort into the advancement of our platform and we should really all be grateful. He's moved us further than most ever will!

Thanks for your input I appreciate it, anyting I can do to simplify this HOW-TO the better! I will go back over the OP and change some things to help make it easier.

I am glad your car is up and running again with no hick-ups in the swap! It makes me happy knowing that I can help without having to physically be there!

Now share what you have learned with those in need!

-PJ

Spiral1183 10-04-2013 04:28 PM

@Rokusek this may be a dumb question but I'm about to tackle this tomorrow night. When timing the engine, how much slack are you talking about putting in between the two cam gears when reinstalling the new chain? Or should there be no slack at all between the cam gears after the chain is installed and the cam alignment tool is holding the cams in place?

I assume that while the intake cam gear does have the ability to shift to change valve timing, it won't do it while installing and timing the engine correct?

Rokusek 10-04-2013 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spiral1183 (Post 2283812)
@Rokusek this may be a dumb question but I'm about to tackle this tomorrow night. When timing the engine, how much slack are you talking about putting in between the two cam gears when reinstalling the new chain? Or should there be no slack at all between the cam gears after the chain is installed and the cam alignment tool is holding the cams in place?

I assume that while the intake cam gear does have the ability to shift to change valve timing, it won't do it while installing and timing the engine correct?

First off the only dumb question is a question that is not asked. Sooo..

There should be minimal to no slack. Once you time everything, there shouldn't be any slack and if there is it should be minimal.

After the motor is timed (before you completely put it all back together) you should be able to hand spin the crank 2-4 full rotations. Once that is done there should be no slack and you should be able to recheck timing and it will be spot on with the timing tools.

If you have any issues what so ever tomorrow give me a call.

I am PM'ing you my number so you can call when needed.

merc73 10-11-2013 10:05 PM

Would like to offer my thanks as well. My car is running great. Without this forum and the many contributors, this simply would not have been a project I would have taken on...
The car
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps465cabf8.jpg
The disassembly
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psdfc197ed.jpg
The head off
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pse15a9b57.jpg
Rebuilt head on
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps7afa29be.jpg
Here is the plug hole I missed. You have to transfer a plug from the old head to the rebuilt head, or when you start the car, you will have 5 qts of oil on the floor, and all over the engine. Ask me how I know
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps39ba5623.jpg
Me, thanks again guys. Not just this thread, but the engine rebuild thread, the toy injector seal thread, etc.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps6e798dba.jpg

redneck4Christ 12-08-2013 09:42 PM

Awesome write up. Thank You Roku!!!!!

2 quick comments.
Get a good baseline log Before you start. That will give you something to compare to afterward.

Also know that if you take off stock parts and replace them with aftermarket parts, say an intake, that will add some time. All mods do. This may prevent you from finishing in one day. Ask me how I know!

Lex2007 12-09-2013 02:02 PM

Roku, you get a chance to look at my video above? Dosnt it sound like a VVT issue or is this some other demon?

a

Lex2007 12-20-2013 07:56 AM

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pse15a9b57.jpg

Merc73, Did you clean the tops of the pistons while you had access to them?

Rokusek, would this be considered a change of the "VVT GEAR"? Or is that an additional part not included in your instructions? Reason I ask is because I've read that the noise I am getting is caused by bad "VVT gear".

pbeeezy 12-23-2013 04:10 PM

Question on the parts....

I went into mazda today and this is the list they gave me:
1. LF01-11-406 : Crankshaft Bolt : 17.91
2. L3G6-10-602 : Seal, Oil : 13.87
3. L3H5-11-407 : Washer(3) : 66.12
4. L3K9-12-201A : Timing Chain : 58.80
5. 0000-77-1217-ES : RTV Silicone : 13.42
6. LFBL-10-237 : Washer, Sealing-head Cover(14) : 190.54
7. L3K9-12-193 : Gasket, RR. Housing : 6.88
8. L3K9-10-230 : Cover, Seal : 22.60
9. L3K9-12-4X0C : ACTR, VVT : 163.96
10. L3K9-12-429 : Washer(2) : 13.24
11. 9XG0-99-667L : PlugBlind : 4.06

The total comes out to be 584 bucks. I've seen all over people saying between 3-400 for parts, so is mazda just throwing things in here that I dont need? Also the mechanic I'm having do this said sometimes you need to replace the timing chain guides as well, anyone do this on theirs?

THANK YOU for this amazing post you literally saved me hundreds of dollars... when I'm doing sorting out this whole VVT mess I will gladly donate :)

EDIT: I've found a site that sells OEM parts for REALLY cheap. Going to save me a little over a hundred bucks just in parts.
http://www.partsvp.com/

TiGraySpeed6 12-23-2013 04:24 PM

You can get by without replacing the VC bolts

This one: 6. LFBL-10-237 : Washer, Sealing-head Cover(14) : 190.54

Rokusek 12-23-2013 06:59 PM

First off, my bad for not seeing the updates on this thread, I have so many subscriptions that it has been on my second and third page, so most the times I dont see it. Mention me from now on to insure I get some sort of notification.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2372299)
Roku, you get a chance to look at my video above? Dosnt it sound like a VVT issue or is this some other demon?

a

Yes that sounds just like VVT.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2385755)
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pse15a9b57.jpg

Merc73, Did you clean the tops of the pistons while you had access to them?

Rokusek, would this be considered a change of the "VVT GEAR"? Or is that an additional part not included in your instructions? Reason I ask is because I've read that the noise I am getting is caused by bad "VVT gear".

I am not sure what you mean by all this? Are you asking if this is to replace the "VVT GEAR" then yes. You are changing that out in order to fix the problem.

Basically what happens is ther is a pin inside the actuall VVT that keeps it from spinning freely. That pin ends up breaking over time and will then cause the VVT to move on its own causing your intake timing to just kinda do what ever it wants.

So in this case all this work is done specifically to change the gear on its own, everything else is what must and should be replaced when doing so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pbeeezy (Post 2389002)
Question on the parts....

I went into mazda today and this is the list they gave me:
1. LF01-11-406 : Crankshaft Bolt : 17.91
2. L3G6-10-602 : Seal, Oil : 13.87
3. L3H5-11-407 : Washer(3) : 66.12
4. L3K9-12-201A : Timing Chain : 58.80
5. 0000-77-1217-ES : RTV Silicone : 13.42
6. LFBL-10-237 : Washer, Sealing-head Cover(14) : 190.54
7. L3K9-12-193 : Gasket, RR. Housing : 6.88
8. L3K9-10-230 : Cover, Seal : 22.60
9. L3K9-12-4X0C : ACTR, VVT : 163.96
10. L3K9-12-429 : Washer(2) : 13.24
11. 9XG0-99-667L : PlugBlind : 4.06


The total comes out to be 584 bucks. I've seen all over people saying between 3-400 for parts, so is mazda just throwing things in here that I dont need? Also the mechanic I'm having do this said sometimes you need to replace the timing chain guides as well, anyone do this on theirs?

THANK YOU for this amazing post you literally saved me hundreds of dollars... when I'm doing sorting out this whole VVT mess I will gladly donate :)

EDIT: I've found a site that sells OEM parts for REALLY cheap. Going to save me a little over a hundred bucks just in parts.
Genuine OEM Auto Parts For Sale at Discounted Low Price

As @TiGraySpeed6; stated number 6 does not need to be purchased. Neither does nubmer 11 (which does not get removed anyways). Number 11 is used when the dealer does it (or so they say) I have spoken with several techs at different dealers and they all say its easier to pull the timing cover then to not. The blind plug is removed when using the mazda recommended way of replacing the VVT which to my understanding is more time comsuming and is prone to cause more trouble than it is worth.

The reason I did this write up was to show the easiest way to swap out VVT and to insure that those reading it could follow it as easily as possible. This also gives you an idea for how everything works together.

If you search here you may sometimes find parts for sale. I know that @ms6ms6; tends to have VVT parts for sale on a somewhat regular basis. If you get in touch with him you might get lucky and get a full parts kit for the basic recommended parts.

If not, I would also get with @JP@edgeautosport.com; and see what they have. At one point I was talking with JP and Alan to get a full blown VVT replacement kit to come with all the necessary tools and parts to do this swap. Idk if that ever got farther than just talking about it. But it is worth the look.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 (Post 2389018)
You can get by without replacing the VC bolts

This one: 6. LFBL-10-237 : Washer, Sealing-head Cover(14) : 190.54

Hope all this helps. Let me know if there is anything else.

-PJ

sidekick 12-23-2013 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pbeeezy (Post 2389002)
Question on the parts....

I went into mazda today and this is the list they gave me:
1. LF01-11-406 : Crankshaft Bolt : 17.91
2. L3G6-10-602 : Seal, Oil : 13.87
3. L3H5-11-407 : Washer(3) : 66.12
4. L3K9-12-201A : Timing Chain : 58.80
5. 0000-77-1217-ES : RTV Silicone : 13.42
6. LFBL-10-237 : Washer, Sealing-head Cover(14) : 190.54
7. L3K9-12-193 : Gasket, RR. Housing : 6.88
8. L3K9-10-230 : Cover, Seal : 22.60
9. L3K9-12-4X0C : ACTR, VVT : 163.96
10. L3K9-12-429 : Washer(2) : 13.24
11. 9XG0-99-667L : PlugBlind : 4.06

The total comes out to be 584 bucks. I've seen all over people saying between 3-400 for parts, so is mazda just throwing things in here that I dont need? Also the mechanic I'm having do this said sometimes you need to replace the timing chain guides as well, anyone do this on theirs?

THANK YOU for this amazing post you literally saved me hundreds of dollars... when I'm doing sorting out this whole VVT mess I will gladly donate :)

EDIT: I've found a site that sells OEM parts for REALLY cheap. Going to save me a little over a hundred bucks just in parts.
http://www.partsvp.com/

Check onlinemazdaparts.com and there is also an ebay seller who is a mazda dealer that sells the VVT kit for a good price. I've ordered from both and they both have good service and decent prices.

hnda etr 12-23-2013 07:44 PM

Don't forget there are also 2 companies that offer an upgraded vvt to prevent any future failures.

Lex2007 12-24-2013 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hnda etr (Post 2389176)
Don't forget there are also 2 companies that offer an upgraded vvt to prevent any future failures.

Are you implying that Mazda just uses the same faulty design as the replacement part when the VVT is repaired?

Also, I got a quite from Russell Mazda near Baltimore to do this work for $850, "That price includes the cost for the vvt actuator, the timing chain, and the tensioner. If more parts are needed the cost may increase". Any comment on what additional parts may be needed Rokusek?

Sounds like a pretty decent price, no?

Rokusek 12-24-2013 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2389450)
Are you implying that Mazda just uses the same faulty design as the replacement part when the VVT is repaired?

Also, I got a quite from Russell Mazda near Baltimore to do this work for $850, "That price includes the cost for the vvt actuator, the timing chain, and the tensioner. If more parts are needed the cost may increase". Any comment on what additional parts may be needed Rokusek?

Sounds like a pretty decent price, no?

Its cheaper to do it yourself no matter how you look at it.

Thats pretty cheap for VVT work, I have seen lots get the work done and on average it costs around 1500 for parts and labor. So they are probly just low balling you so they can do the work, then jack the price up when they finish due to labor costs.

The dealer uses a newer upgraded VVT actuator. There are three versions of the VVT and you can only get the most recent (which I have yet to see fail on its own).

Lex2007 12-26-2013 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2389461)
Its cheaper to do it yourself no matter how you look at it.

Thats pretty cheap for VVT work, I have seen lots get the work done and on average it costs around 1500 for parts and labor. So they are probly just low balling you so they can do the work, then jack the price up when they finish due to labor costs.


Rokusek, ya its cheaper for sure which is why I always do my own work, but other people are telling me the valve lash and valve shims need to be adjusted as well which I dont know how to do. This is my daily driver on a long commute. I cant afford to blow this thing up.

Parts and tools alone are $500 if I do it myself. which includes the [TCT-305-507] Turbo Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg--$43.95 • [TCT-303-1061] Turbo Camshaft Alignment Tool--$130.00 • [TCT-303-1061] TDC Timing Peg & Alignment Tool--$165.00 (Save $15!)

How do you think the dealer would justify jacking up the costs Rokusek?

Rokusek 12-26-2013 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2391148)
Rokusek, ya its cheaper for sure which is why I always do my own work, but other people are telling me the valve lash and valve shims need to be adjusted as well which I dont know how to do. This is my daily driver on a long commute. I cant afford to blow this thing up.

Parts and tools alone are $500 if I do it myself. which includes the [TCT-305-507] Turbo Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg--$43.95 • [TCT-303-1061] Turbo Camshaft Alignment Tool--$130.00 • [TCT-303-1061] TDC Timing Peg & Alignment Tool--$165.00 (Save $15!)

How do you think the dealer would justify jacking up the costs Rokusek?


They could find other things wrong, or maybe the estimate was for lets say 8hrs worth of labor and it ended up taking 12hrs or something stupid like that. I am always cautious about dealers and letting them work on my cars or any shop for that matter.

I posted a link in the OP with a place to find the timing tools and cheaper than what you have stated, where are you finding these tools at?

-PJ

pbeeezy 12-26-2013 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2391148)
Parts and tools alone are $500 if I do it myself. which includes the [TCT-305-507] Turbo Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg--$43.95 • [TCT-303-1061] Turbo Camshaft Alignment Tool--$130.00 • [TCT-303-1061] TDC Timing Peg & Alignment Tool--$165.00 (Save $15!)

@Lex2007;
I just bought parts off partsvp.com for a fraction of the normal cost. They are being sent from Rosenthal Arlington Mazda Parts Store, I looked all over to get a good idea of what parts are really necessary and which aren't. Obviously depends on the car... here is the list I came up with and the prices.
http://cl.ly/image/3s2Y2g3k0k1H/Scre...56.26%20PM.png

EDIT: I bought the timing chain guides, for some they don't need them but I am at 80k and figured it was worth it. And if you end up not needing some of the parts you can return them for a full refund.

Lex2007 12-26-2013 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2391243)
They could find other things wrong, or maybe the estimate was for lets say 8hrs worth of labor and it ended up taking 12hrs or something stupid like that. I am always cautious about dealers and letting them work on my cars or any shop for that matter.

I posted a link in the OP with a place to find the timing tools and cheaper than what you have stated, where are you finding these tools at?

-PJ

Shhhhhhiiiiiit...you dont have to say another word....I literally feel dirty walking into the dealer or even talking to them. Car dealerships are the very definition of inefficiency. But I need this done quickly and by someone who is experienced in the particular job. The dealer is the only place I know can do this job correctly or face total embarrassment in its own failure to do so.

I would definitely hesitate to buy another Mazda after this engine debacle, never mind the failed struts at 45k miles. Ive had Toyotas with 200kplus miles whose engines ran flawlessly. Mazda doesnt appear to sort out their engines before putting them on the market.

Rokusek, I used the link you posted for the timing tools. Taylor's Sport-n-Import.

Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co.

Lex2007 12-26-2013 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pbeeezy (Post 2391252)
@Lex2007;
I just bought parts off partsvp.com for a fraction of the normal cost. They are being sent from Rosenthal Arlington Mazda Parts Store, I looked all over to get a good idea of what parts are really necessary and which aren't. Obviously depends on the car... here is the list I came up with and the prices.

Rosenthal dealers have a baaaaaaaaaaaaad reputation....at least the sales side does. But that is an aside.

I don't see how the parts list would vary much be car. Care to elaborate?

I also priced it at around $300 for parts plus $165 for the timing tool and timing pin. Around $450.

But even if I change out the VVT or pay for dealer to do it, doesn't mean my problem is solved since the symptoms arent traditional failed VVT noises.

Rokusek 12-27-2013 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2391679)
Shhhhhhiiiiiit...you dont have to say another word....I literally feel dirty walking into the dealer or even talking to them. Car dealerships are the very definition of inefficiency. But I need this done quickly and by someone who is experienced in the particular job. The dealer is the only place I know can do this job correctly or face total embarrassment in its own failure to do so.

I would definitely hesitate to buy another Mazda after this engine debacle, never mind the failed struts at 45k miles. Ive had Toyotas with 200kplus miles whose engines ran flawlessly. Mazda doesnt appear to sort out their engines before putting them on the market.

Rokusek, I used the link you posted for the timing tools. Taylor's Sport-n-Import.

Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co.

Ok, you posted all three items lol, You only need the $165 kit.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2391693)
Rosenthal dealers have a baaaaaaaaaaaaad reputation....at least the sales side does. But that is an aside.

I don't see how the parts list would vary much be car. Care to elaborate?

I also priced it at around $300 for parts plus $165 for the timing tool and timing pin. Around $450.

But even if I change out the VVT or pay for dealer to do it, doesn't mean my problem is solved since the symptoms arent traditional failed VVT noises.

Where do you live?

Lex2007 12-27-2013 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2391915)
Ok, you posted all three items lol, You only need the $165 kit.

Where do you live?

Yes sir. The pin and the timing plate. $165.00

-Rokusek, I'm near the District of columbia.

Rokusek 12-27-2013 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2392005)
Yes sir. The pin and the timing plate. $165.00

-Rokusek, I'm near the District of columbia.

Where specifically? I know several people in the DC metro area who may be able to help you on this. As well as get a better diagnostic on your car.

I may also be in the DC area next weekend and could swing by and look at the car as well.

-PJ

EDIT: 5000th post WOOT WOOT!

Lex2007 12-27-2013 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2392025)
Where specifically? I know several people in the DC metro area who may be able to help you on this. As well as get a better diagnostic on your car.

I may also be in the DC area next weekend and could swing by and look at the car as well.

-PJ

Awww man Rokusek that would be so great. I cant thank you enough. Im near the University of MD College Park campus.

I need a diagnosis before I spend the time and money. I dont wanna change out the VVT and then hear the VW Diesel facsimile again.

Rokusek 12-27-2013 07:53 AM

Well you have several options

See what these guys think:
@Downmented; @The Panda; @superskaterxes; @Captain KR; Anyone else close buy who knows how to do timing and wouldn't have a problem helping diagnose this issue?

I'll keep you posted on if I make my way up next weekend or not, untill then, these guys may be able to help or find others who can in your area.

-PJ

Lex2007 12-27-2013 07:58 AM

Thanks Rokusek. I will contact them. Much appreciated.

Keep me posted on next weekend.

Lex

The Panda 12-28-2013 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokusek (Post 2392036)
Well you have several options

See what these guys think:
@Downmented; @The Panda; @superskaterxes; @Captain KR; Anyone else close buy who knows how to do timing and wouldn't have a problem helping diagnose this issue?

I'll keep you posted on if I make my way up next weekend or not, untill then, these guys may be able to help or find others who can in your area.

-PJ

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex2007 (Post 2392043)
Thanks Rokusek. I will contact them. Much appreciated.

Keep me posted on next weekend.

Lex


I have timing tool kit and would help but as ur are brown and have been on here since 2009 and have less than 200 post... U my friend are out of luck with me..

Lex2007 12-29-2013 10:08 AM

Hey Rokusek,

Can you explain why you make this point in your instructions?:

"(the egg shaped parts that press onto the tappets/buckets/spring caps) on the cam directly above cylinder 1 (cylinder on the passenger side) do they look like they are facing each other at a 45* angle, while the sides facing each other are parallel to one another as well as perpendicular to the head like this:"

-Lex


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