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 Old 08-19-2011, 09:47 PM   #1
 
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Default Intercooler Mister

So, I saw someone make their own intercooler sprayer, thought it was a great idea and made my own as well.

Parts:
Three way switch, bought at radioshack for $3.00. It has a center off position, and two on positions; this is to allow me to either turn on the sprayer manually, or to turn the power over to my boost switch, so that when it reaches set boost, the intercooler sprayer fires.

Bosst Switch, bought of ebay $14.00Turns accessory on when it reaches set boost pressure.

Overflow tank, autozone for $7.00

190 Garden Myster, Lowes for $3.00 for a set, garden section

Three way hose splicer Lowes for $3.00 for set, garden section

Windshield Wiper Fluid Motor, Autozone $13.99

4mm Vacuum Hose I had some left over, so I'm not sure of price.

There's no real good place to mount the tank, so I just placed it right next to my CAI; seem to be the most accessible and least obstructive place.

I also mounted the Fluid pump on the side of the battery cover, and wired it through and underneath to hide the wires; which I ran in through the firewall on passenger side. I did it that way because I already had a few wires running through there and didn't feel like messing with the firewall opening on the driver side.



I then ran the hose up trough my hood and down to the vent, since I have a vented hood, I place it on the side of the actual scoop. The sprayer is set to the middle of the TMIC, and it's sprays at 190 degree radius, which completely covers the top surface of the Intercooler.



I placed my switch next to the access port on the driver side; it's a three way switch, which I wired to allow me to turn the pump on, off, or over to my boost switch.




This is the boost switch, which I spliced into the line going to my boost gauge, and placed it right next to the toggle switch to lessen the amount of wire I had to run.







I had the main power wire (fused) going to the center of the switch, one going to the pump directly and another going to the boost switch. The boost switch then in place splices into the acc wire going to the pump, in turn reducing the amount of wire ran and giving it control of the power (I hope that made sense)

I originally had the boost switch set to two PSI, but this was way too much of a spray, I now run it at 10psi, and seems to be just the right amount.

Thus far I seem to be getting on average 10 degrees lower on my BATs on equal runs with and without the spray. Also, my BATS are reduce much faster after a 5 second spray during normal use, or if the car has been sitting out in the sun, it helps a lot with heat soak.

Total install time was about two hours, with routing the wires and hose being the most time consuming part.
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 Old 08-19-2011, 09:52 PM   #2
 
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wow, that's pretty cool.

btw: mister. as in mist. unless you're at a renaissance faire. then it may be myst..
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 Old 08-19-2011, 10:04 PM   #3
 
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Brilliant.
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 Old 08-19-2011, 10:08 PM   #4
 
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that hood looks...umm...weird.

DG hood ftw
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 Old 08-20-2011, 04:27 AM   #5
 
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Not bad man. Good work.

And I like your painted plastic covers, cleans up the bay a lot.
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 Old 08-20-2011, 04:32 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by tddvrrn View Post
wow, that's pretty cool.

btw: mister. as in mist. unless you're at a renaissance faire. then it may be myst..
Fixed...
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 Old 08-20-2011, 06:07 AM   #7
 
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I like it. something I was thinking about doing myself one of these days. Then someone just told me to go with Devils Own alcohol injection and get the D07 nozzle so I've never tried doing this. Props to you though looks good!
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 Old 08-20-2011, 06:21 AM   #8
I got all dem pipes
 
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Thanks for the writeup I was thinking of doing this in a fiew weeks.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2
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 Old 08-20-2011, 12:19 PM   #9
 
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Im doing a set up thats close to that but with a sneaky pete bottle and No2.

Anyway my question is why would you want it to turn on when in boost? Seems kinda pointless because your usually moving at some sort of speed when in any sort of load/boost situation.
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 Old 08-20-2011, 12:35 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by jonlax View Post
Im doing a set up thats close to that but with a sneaky pete bottle and No2.

Anyway my question is why would you want it to turn on when in boost? Seems kinda pointless because your usually moving at some sort of speed when in any sort of load/boost situation.
His minimum threshold is set to 10psi, which is about 2250RPM while accelerating. This is when you would begin to notice the ill effects of heatsoak. Here in Texas, even my FMIC yields me pretty shitty BATs when in traffic. Dropping your BATs even a few degrees can get you much better results off the line from a standstill.

Also, remember that your turbo makes 10+ psi no matter whether you're in 1st gear or 6th. In 1st and part of 2nd, your speed and the air hitting the TMIC won't have cooled off it off enough to eliminate heatsoak.

Hope that helps.
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 Old 08-20-2011, 12:41 PM   #11
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i would've used shrink wrap instead of that mess of electrical tape
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 Old 08-20-2011, 12:43 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by jonlax View Post
Im doing a set up thats close to that but with a sneaky pete bottle and No2.

Anyway my question is why would you want it to turn on when in boost? Seems kinda pointless because your usually moving at some sort of speed when in any sort of load/boost situation.
This cannot be a serious question
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 Old 08-20-2011, 12:56 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Rich-PMS View Post
i would've used shrink wrap instead of that mess of electrical tape
I plan on cleaning it up, I was out of butane on my heat gun.

Originally Posted by 461_SS View Post
I like it. something I was thinking about doing myself one of these days. Then someone just told me to go with Devils Own alcohol injection and get the D07 nozzle so I've never tried doing this. Props to you though looks good!
I heard nothing but good things about injection systems; but didn't feel like dishing out $300+ instead of $40...
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 Old 08-20-2011, 12:58 PM   #14
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now go get some logs with sprayer ON and OFF for comparson of temps
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 Old 08-20-2011, 02:23 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by jlink38 View Post
His minimum threshold is set to 10psi, which is about 2250RPM while accelerating. This is when you would begin to notice the ill effects of heatsoak. Here in Texas, even my FMIC yields me pretty shitty BATs when in traffic. Dropping your BATs even a few degrees can get you much better results off the line from a standstill.

Also, remember that your turbo makes 10+ psi no matter whether you're in 1st gear or 6th. In 1st and part of 2nd, your speed and the air hitting the TMIC won't have cooled off it off enough to eliminate heatsoak.

Hope that helps.
Thanks.

I though I read something that stated the top mount received maximum airflow at 20 mph. But forgot that even at that speed heat soak is still present.
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 Old 08-22-2011, 01:40 AM   #16
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moar meth
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 Old 03-30-2012, 10:35 AM   #17
 
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Meth... or this...
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 Old 07-14-2012, 02:20 AM   #18
 
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WHY NOT JUST USE THE WINDSHIELD WASHER ITSELF AND JUST MODIFY IT FACING TOWARDS THE INTERCOOLER??? OR BUY SEPARATE SPRINKLER FOR THE INTERCOOLER AND USE THE REAR WASHER RESERVOIR. ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE WITHOUT SPENDING THAT MUCH MONEY!

And use 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol. Using the windshield washer controls is much easier than having another switch and another reservoir installed to your car.

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