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 Old 09-07-2012, 03:37 PM   #1
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Default JBR 3.5 WidePath + HTP tray + 51r battery

So I thought I would document my JBR + HTP install including additions and changes required to complete the project. I hope to add before and after VD plots to show HP gain, if any with the intake change.

With such a large intake, I opted to install a honeycomb air straightener purchased from JBR. The HTP tray was purchased direct from HTP and even though it is smaller to hold a Group 51r battery, it does require a little modification to the ECU mounting location to clear the huge JBR intake.

So on to the fun.

Here is the JBR 3.5 WidePath intake along with the honeycomb straightener. Not surprisingly coming from JBR this piece is a work of art and comes with everything you need to complete the install. That means silicone hoses for the VC to TIP as well as BCS to TIP... very nice indeed!



One thing I wasn't aware of going in to this project was the size difference in the OE battery and a group 51r. Its not a Braille by any means and the CCA is like 550 and OE is 625 so not a bad compromise.

To give you an idea of the battery size difference from OE I snapped a few pics.





OE battery in OE tray



51r in the OE tray



Ran with the new battery for a few days while I waited for the HTP tray to arive



So now on to the install highlights.

The honeycomb doesn't come sized to fit the intake so I scratched my head for a bit trying to decide how to cut it. Band saw would be ideal but I am shade tree mechanic so I don't have one of those. What can I do....

Ah I have an idea....



clamp my jig saw upside down in my vise...hahahaha perfect...well not.. but it worked. I set the speed on 1/3rd, clamped the trigger open, plugged her in and kept the blade lubed with WD and like 1 hour later it looked like this.



This was the most time consuming tedious part of the install which required some breaks at which time I enjoyed a lil of this from my shop beer fridge. Its summer time so the selection is a bit on the light side...these will be replaced with NewCastle, FatTire and other more substantial selections come fall/winter.



So next I contemplated how to mount the art piece into the intake...some have used screws placed downstream of the straightener, some have epoxied them in, others double sided tape. I didn't like any of those options so I decided on a fastener of sorts.

1st of all I took my time cutting the straightener so it was a very tight fit to begin with. I had some galvanized coated wire laying around and decided I would loop it around a honeycomb chamber and back out and over the end of the intake. If that were to get lose...well it would be bad...um k...but I don't see how this would ever happen so this is how it ended up. 3 pieces of wire strategically placed.





So now its time to put this thing in. Step one was to install the 4-3.5" coupler onto the turbo. Those who have installed say the CPE whale dick know what a bitch it was to get past the heater hose and over the compressor inlet....not so with this setup...easy peazy.

This is part two when I put the intake into the coupler



More intake pics



Silicone hoses with nice 90* barb



so the HTP tray is setup to mount the ECU in the pre-drilled holes but the problem I was having was that the harness connectors were too wide to fit and were pushing fairly hard against the intake. I discovered there was no way around this no matter how you re-adjusted the intake. If you moved the ECU slightly forward [toward the front of the car] the ECU harness clips would clear the intake. So I just drilled one more hole in the tray and moved the ECU forward.





you can see the new hole I drilled out at the bottom front of the tray in this pic. So the ECU is only mounted by 3 of the 4 bolts in this configuration. I don't think its going anywhere.



This allows the harness clips to miss the intake with room to spare for engine movement. Before the clips were resting right about where the weld is on the intake which was no bueno.



You do have to remove all the factory harness protectors and bracket to use the HTP tray and I actually stripped the entire harness back to the starter area and started over. If I have to stock out one day there is no way that harness is going back to its original state...lol





HTP tray has a perfect place to mount my GrimSpeed EBC











So that about covers the install.

I do have some prelem plots of how well the straightener works. This was an early MAF cal log running my MBC. I think after Ziggo gave me the 1.67 multiplier for the entire curve this is like 2 revisions after that...easiest intake I have every calibrated.

Target of 12.17 and she holds it like a champ. I need to start a battle my AF plot thread.



I'll update OP with the tuning progress as time allows.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
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I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 03:43 PM   #2
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I used jb weld on my honecomb install but the wire is a good idea, like it. Looks like that 3.5" intake can fit a pretty good sized filter too!
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 Old 09-07-2012, 03:50 PM   #3
 
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Nice. Interested to see results.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 03:55 PM   #4
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hahah yes the filter is a massive AEM dryflow. The combo of the larger intake/filter and probably the fact that its metal makes the turbo louder. You can hear the whistle as it spools up and when you let off the gas...forget about it...it sounds like the BOV is VTA.

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Originally Posted by speed_freak91 View Post
Nice. Interested to see results.
I can say this. With my MAF cal map [93, no meth, no timing] same boost curve as in the plot, it flowed about the same G/S as my E40, M7 100% meth , 20* timing, 25.5PSI map at the same AMB temps. High PR at the compressor inlet is a bitch...lol

so I too am interested to get the results but my day job has again turned into a day, night and weekend job so progress is slow. Unfortunately, fall is coming and I r-e-a-l-l-y want to compare before and after VD plots at the same AMB temps. Its going to be hard.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.

Last edited by Dano; 09-07-2012 at 04:10 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 09-07-2012, 04:01 PM   #5
 
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Is there a reason why the ECU was spun a different direction? Looks like if it would have been positioned in stock orientation, it would have worked. Unless Im missing something here.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 04:05 PM   #6
 
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Sweet setup man...........gotta love form and function. BTW what kind of FMIC do you have I didn't see it in your sig?
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 Old 09-07-2012, 04:07 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by MSFer87 View Post
Sweet setup man...........gotta love form and function. BTW what kind of FMIC do you have I didn't see it in your sig?
I see it.... Cobb V2 FMIC
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 Old 09-07-2012, 04:07 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by speed_freak91 View Post
Is there a reason why the ECU was spun a different direction? Looks like if it would have been positioned in stock orientation, it would have worked. Unless Im missing something here.
harness isn't long enough. The HTP tray moves everything 2" to the drivers side.

Originally Posted by MSFer87 View Post
Sweet setup man...........gotta love form and function. BTW what kind of FMIC do you have I didn't see it in your sig?
thanks man..I think the IC is in my sig..Cobb v2 FMIC.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 04:22 PM   #9
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Wait, jbr charges extra for the air straightener?
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 Old 09-07-2012, 05:20 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Wait, jbr charges extra for the air straightener?
Yes, it doesn't come with it as its not needed. I don't run one with mine. Some guys were saying that they wanted one, so he stocks them so you can order it all together.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 05:28 PM   #11
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Nice man!
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 Old 09-07-2012, 05:43 PM   #12
 
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Nice I'm waiting for mine to come in along with some other stuff...
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
I've heard that modding MAZDASPEEDs is an STD...
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 Old 09-07-2012, 05:49 PM   #13
 
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Nice to see someone running a failsafe for meth.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 06:21 PM   #14
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This intake will for with the stock battery tray and ecu location?
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 Old 09-07-2012, 06:42 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Boosten Ya(josh) View Post
This intake will for with the stock battery tray and ecu location?
Ecu relocation is a must still unsure if I want to do the easy tape on fuse box cover or copy this awesome setup

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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
I've heard that modding MAZDASPEEDs is an STD...
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 Old 09-07-2012, 06:54 PM   #16
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Ok. if we test it out on my car I'll put it on the fuse box.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by exentix View Post
Yes, it doesn't come with it as its not needed. I don't run one with mine. Some guys were saying that they wanted one, so he stocks them so you can order it all together.
Is your idle completely stable? How about tip in enrichment?
How about you Dano?

My 4" intake makes the engine stumble a little when shifting gears when the engine is cold. And I haz teh maf screen.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 07:39 PM   #18
 
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well i really dont have a solid tune yet. i literally just took a stage 1 map and adjusted the maf table enough to be safe. just installed a dp and switched the maf tables to a stage 2 map. loading my first stratified revision tomorrow morning Lex should be able to get it pretty spot on i would imagine. heres a log if you wanna look at it.

i dont think much was done to adjust anything on idle yet.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:15 PM   #19

 
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Is your idle completely stable? How about tip in enrichment?
How about you Dano?

My 4" intake makes the engine stumble a little when shifting gears when the engine is cold. And I haz teh maf screen.
No stumbling, but there can be an idle dip when the engine is left freewheeling and the throttle closed.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:41 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Boosten Ya(josh) View Post
This intake will for with the stock battery tray and ecu location?
ECU relocate a must. I don't have room on the fuse box + I like the cleaner install w the HTP tray.


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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:45 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by exentix View Post
Yes, it doesn't come with it as its not needed. I don't run one with mine. Some guys were saying that they wanted one, so he stocks them so you can order it all together.
Not sure I agree w that. Lol

Let's see your AF plot. Lower RPM will suffer even more.


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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-07-2012, 08:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post
Is your idle completely stable? How about tip in enrichment?
How about you Dano?

My 4" intake makes the engine stumble a little when shifting gears when the engine is cold. And I haz teh maf screen.
Idle is fine after fast idle settles down.

Car started to run like shit when cold after the VCTS delete + IM porting, not sure which contributed the most. JBR made it worse but the erratic throttle response only lasts for a block or 2. It will be interesting to see how it acts when it really gets cold. Cold start now is 90*. Lol.

Some low load DBW work may be in order buy really the behavior is very minimal. If you want the car to drive like stock this intake is not for you. Lol.
Ziggo BTW. I ended up at 1.70 as an entire MAF multiplier for 93, then some slight tweaking. This from a Cobb SRI maf. I'll update OP


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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.

Last edited by Dano; 09-08-2012 at 09:26 AM.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 03:59 AM   #23
 
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heres a vd plot if thats what your looking for? temps were around 80* and elevation is around 1000 ft. 3rd gear pull with a passenger. 1.01 cf but i guess none of that matters if your looking at afr's
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 Old 09-08-2012, 05:34 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by exentix View Post
Yes, it doesn't come with it as its not needed. I don't run one with mine. Some guys were saying that they wanted one, so he stocks them so you can order it all together.
And on top of that it's not even cut to size?!
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 Old 09-08-2012, 05:41 AM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
And on top of that it's not even cut to size?!
its listed as a 96mm straightener. so like 3.7 inch. inner diameter is 3.37 iirc. so no, not cut to fit. why dont you just say what you wanna say?
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 Old 09-08-2012, 05:45 AM   #26
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I think I've said what I wanted to say already.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:16 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
And on top of that it's not even cut to size?!
quit hating!
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:33 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by exentix View Post
heres a vd plot if thats what your looking for? temps were around 80* and elevation is around 1000 ft. 3rd gear pull with a passenger. 1.01 cf but i guess none of that matters if your looking at afr's
Looking good. I would be interested to know if it remains that stable over time. I am hoping mine does and so far so good.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:46 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by dpolseno41 View Post
Nice to see someone running a failsafe for meth.
yes sir, been there since day one and no way I would run without it. I actually removed the boost cut sol b/c it slowed my spool time and I rely on the lights in my dash to warn me of a fault.

shameless plug for my WMI install thread.

Labonte WMI Install How-to w failsafe
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 08:49 AM   #30
 
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i have a question about the battery try i need to do that to mine to its rubbing aginst my inlet hose. after you narrowed it when you close the hood does the air ducts still fit right over the battery?
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:12 AM   #31
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I have the same setup, but with no straightener and an Amsoil filter. Stable here as well, no issues when cold or idling. I did just notice that after about 1200 miles on this map, my idle long trims at near -8%, when before it was near perfect.

awesome write up.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:22 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by heeltoe View Post
i have a question about the battery try i need to do that to mine to its rubbing aginst my inlet hose. after you narrowed it when you close the hood does the air ducts still fit right over the battery?
I have a new HTP battery tray so the lid of your OE tray will not fit on there so I'm not sure the ducting is relevant. The HTP tray moves things over to the drivers side 2" and IIRC the duct openening in the OE tray was in the middle of the lid. So I would think the duct would still hit right around the left hand [passenger side] of the battery.

I haven't had my OE ducting on the hood for years...lol

Originally Posted by 802MS3 View Post
I have the same setup, but with no straightener and an Amsoil filter. Stable here as well, no issues when cold or idling. I did just notice that after about 1200 miles on this map, my idle long trims at near -8%, when before it was near perfect.

awesome write up.
doesn't the Amsoil have a built in velocity stack?

have you performed a VCTS delete? IMO that was the major contributor to my instability running when cold. The JBR just exaggerated it a bit. If I let the car idle for about 2-3 minutes before I drive it, which is typical, it really is up to par in a block, so its not a huge deal.

The VCTS increases air velocity into the cylinders for better atomization when cold so I lost that then. The larger intake will have the same affect so 1+1=2 lol. I bet if you still had VCTS you would not tell any difference in the JBR intake.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.

Last edited by Dano; 09-08-2012 at 09:23 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:35 AM   #33
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Nice write-up man! Looking forward to have the exact same setup installed on my build!
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:37 AM   #34
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yea Gerry ported my IM and ripped out the VTCS. maybe I'm getting better atomizatoin from my dirty valves lol

I also have the 2.75" inlet on my compressor, dunno if that would help though.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 09:51 AM   #35
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thanks for sharing. yeah IDK if it would make any difference. I suppose any reduction in the diameter of the intake tract would increase air velocity to a degree but not sure going from 3.5 to 2.75 would make that much difference but who knows.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 11:23 AM   #36
 
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Dano that is on a quick tune too. Basically threw the 1.67 factor in and revised once. It will be tuned for real soon
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 Old 09-08-2012, 11:31 AM   #37
 
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Looks good, but enki mentioned that the ecu should not be grounded.

With that power coated, are you grounding the ecu? If so i would just get some nylon nuts and bolts.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 12:52 PM   #38
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look closer young padawan....HTP tray comes with nylon sleeves and washers

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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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 Old 09-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #39
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oh we've come so far from the days where nylon washers fixed everything
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 Old 09-08-2012, 01:21 PM   #40
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hahahahahah

too funny....I was going to say many guys have grounded their ECUs without issue but whatever...thought I'd point out that HTP has all the bases covered.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
The hardest part of modding is knowing when you've met your goal
Originally Posted by Enki View Post
I dunno though; it sounds good in my head but I'm mostly talking out of my ass.
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